Roller cam question

[VD CRUISER]

Still thinking about putting a roller in my blown deal. The choices and prices vary so much, I need help. Does anyone know anything good or bad about Herbert's cam and lifters? What make/brand seems to be the most reliable for a river deal?
I'm thinking solid, not hydraulic.

[cstraub]

Any roller core is fine. lifters that is a different story. You need to go with the expensive stuff, Isky, Morel, or Crower.
Chris

[djdtpr]

I run a Herbert cam and lifters but i believe that you need to run the best springs you can.I run vasco jet springs and no prob.spring pressure and harmonisc are the most important thing i have found so far.The #1 killer of roller springs are gear drive setups.My .02:)

[Nstigator74]

Stay away from Herbert (or any cheap) lifters. Unless you plan on building a "claimer" motor.

[Petrofied]

I run a Crower solid roller. Four years no problems so far. I just adj. the valves every 4 or 5 trips no big deal. I also run a dry belt timing system, Less friction and harmonics transfer. Plus quick cam removal and adjustments.
MR.P. :cool:

[djdtpr]

nstigater you sound like you have had some bad luck in the past what was it?Claimer motors are usually pretty cheap to build arent they?Arent they usually small blocks though?I think we went to some races in Blythe one night and that was what they were saying but they were fun to watch.Come to think of it not one of them things blew up either.

[Nstigator74]

djd, i've had the rollers fail in two sets of herbert lifters ( small block).I believe on a roller set up you shouldn't trim $$ on the lifters or valve springs. The "claimer motor" comment was just sarcasm:rolleyes:

[VD CRUISER]

Thanks for the comments guys. One of the reasons I haven't gone to a roller is the horror stories I've heard about the lifters coming apart, and no one has been willing to gaurantee a performance increase.

[djdtpr]

Originally posted by Nstigator74
djd, i've had the rollers fail in two sets of herbert lifters ( small block) The "claimer motor" comment was just sarcasm:rolleyes:
Have you had any problems with their bb stuff?I have heard a few guys say that they have.I ran a set of comp lifters on the last herbert cam i had when we took it apart it looked like the lifters were tracking it pretty bad nobody knew why i sent the cam to herbert they gave me a knew one free of charge.I was kidding about the claimer stuff just a joke.

[V-DRIVES RULE]

Go isky get the springs lifters and cam all matched its worth the money to do it right .if you dont want to spend the $$$$ then go solids. its cheaper to do it right the 1st time!

[75spectra]

I run all Crane stuff in mine with K-motion springs, no problems so far?! I changed from a flat hydraulic to roller over a year ago and you WILL gain performance! I dont know how much horsepower I got but I did pick up 600 rpm and that equals speed....
Just a thought, but dont get the biggest lift as that only forces you to buy super stiff springs and thats where the breaking starts. My jet has 615 / 636 lift that only requires about 400lbs. spring pressure.

[dan hudson]

Originally posted by VD CRUISER
Still thinking about putting a roller in my blown deal. The choices and prices vary so much, I need help. Does anyone know anything good or bad about Herbert's cam and lifters? What make/brand seems to be the most reliable for a river deal?
I'm thinking solid, not hydraulic. I ran a howard solid roller, buy good roller, springs,and rockers .If this is set up right you shouldn't have any trouble.I had 714 lift and motor turned 7200 plus rpm in a day cruiser ran the boat every where it didn't set on the beach just look good. keep in adjustment and I set mine .006 tighter then called forand I've ran the same springs for three seasons keep close eye on the spring pressure. good luck

[don johnson]

Hi,
Teague builds my motors and uses Crane. He will only use the extra heavy duty Crane lifters. As many have said do no cut $'s on your valvetrain. Buy the best springs and lifters available.
My motor runs the hydraulic rollers as i do not want to deal with replacing the lifters as part of regular maintenance. My motors made 1070 HP on 11 lbs of boost with a hyd roller for what it is worth....
One thing you must consider if going to a SOLID roller is that no matter who's lifter you use they will need to be replaced every 100 hours, no exception. Unless you want to risk problems. No doubt the solid roller will make more HP, Teague claims a minimum of 30-40 HP more up top.
One last suggestion, order the cam with a cast distributer gear option which allows you to run the standard distributer gear. If you do not go with this option you must swap out the distributer gear to a bronze one which will have to be replaced often as it will wear.
Also if you do not have a stud girdle I highly suggest one as it will keep the valves set much better and provide needed support.

[obnoxious001]

Don
You should specify Gary Teague, of GT Performance if you are going to give him a plug, unless are trying to send people up to Valencia.

[VD CRUISER]

I guess the next question is how big do I need. Since this is a blown 547 in a V drive that currently turns 6300-6400 rpm , I need to make power to 6800-7000 to gain much performance. Any sugestions on lift, duration and lobe centers.

[J540]

Originally posted by don johnson
Hi,
Teague builds my motors and uses Crane. He will only use the extra heavy duty Crane lifters. As many have said do no cut $'s on your valvetrain. Buy the best springs and lifters available.
My motor runs the hydraulic rollers as i do not want to deal with replacing the lifters as part of regular maintenance. My motors made 1070 HP on 11 lbs of boost with a hyd roller for what it is worth....
One thing you must consider if going to a SOLID roller is that no matter who's lifter you use they will need to be replaced every 100 hours, no exception. Unless you want to risk problems. No doubt the solid roller will make more HP, Teague claims a minimum of 30-40 HP more up top.
One last suggestion, order the cam with a cast distributer gear option which allows you to run the standard distributer gear. If you do not go with this option you must swap out the distributer gear to a bronze one which will have to be replaced often as it will wear.
You should specify Gary Teague, of GT Performance if you are going to give him a plug, unless are trying to send people up to Valencia. [/B][/QUOTE]
Gary (GT perf.) uses a lot of isky red line lifters, and one of the best springs made isky toolroom 9385-plus. this spring is way proven in nascar. 1000 miles 1 lb lost.
no need to change lifters at 100 hrs, send them back to isky and they will check and replace rollers,bearings and pins for aprox, $11.00 ea. in one week. a lot better than 500.00 a set. or you can step up and i can get you a killer set of lifters for $1700. sounds like a lot, well how much will you have in it when a lifter go's out. and you dont have to keep wondering if. i mean when your lifters are going to let go. cuz they will.
Stay with the bronze gear for billet cams, way more for giveing, big deal, thay are 50.00$ one time every two years mabe!!. much rather have a cam gear go bad than a cam.
And the big killer on solid rollers lifters is idling around.

[don johnson]

Interesting comment on the cam gear. Gary has always put the cast gear on the cams in my engines. So did Pfaff when he built motors for me a time ago.
What is the advantage of running the bronze gear? What makes it more forgiving?
I have friends that run the bronze gear and have to replace dist gears very 40-50 hours.... That is not an option in my boat as I am putting 100+ hours on the motors every summer.
Thanks for the insights...

[75spectra]

I have friends that are using the "bronze" dist. gear and the length of time it seems to last is directly linked to the oil pump. If you run a crazy amount of oil pressure it will wear out the gear sooner. The need for it in the first place is cause you cant run a steel gear on a steel cam, all roller cams are steel, (unless it has a built in cast gear on the end). GM found the solution to this problem.... 10456413 dist. gear. This gear is made from a "mellonized" metal that will run with cast cams as well as steel roller cams. Very durable and will out last bronze 3 to 1. MSD guys cant use it because MSD uses a .500 dist shaft.