Thermostat Question???

[MAINEVENT]

OK i run a thermostat kit my temp fluxuates (sp?) from like 160 - 200ish but people keep telling me that i should take it off :confused: bacuse its running too hot, it doesn't stay around 200 for long it drops quick...My buddy had a freeze plug pop off on him and a couple people told him it was bacause the thermostat???? So just wanted you input on this should i go back to a 2port cap where the therm. goes or keep the thermostat kit the way it is??? howw often should i check it for anything clogged in there??
TIA
MAINEVENT
ps after how many ours should i check my valve on a fresh motor and would you know the gap specs for a bbc 454???

[Lightning]

I run the Rex thermostat kit and the temp never gets close to 200, are you sure that the thermostat is not in upside down or something. It sounds like it is running really hot.

[MAINEVENT]

I run the Rex thermostat kit and the temp never gets close to 200, are you sure that the thermostat is not in upside down or something. It sounds like it is running really hot.
:confused: :confused: thermostat is in right i dont get it

[Lightning]

:confused: :confused: thermostat is in right i dont get it
If the thermostat is in upside down, they will close when they are supposed to open and the motor will get hot. Just trying to figure out why you are getting up to 200. I don't think 200 is too hot, not ideal, but not too hot. Many trucks with big blocks run at 195.

[Back Forty]

Although my setup is a bit different then yours I am using a 140* mercruiser (automotive style) thermostat. It's not the high flow housing. I drilled four .228" holes around the circumfrence to handle the extra flow requirements when at higher rpms. Before the 140* I was trying a 160* piece with no relief holes.The temps would get up to 170 and better when running hard and wouldn't come down until I would idle about for a while. With the drilled 140* stat, it is always between 135* and 145* whether at WOT for a while or backing off of WOT and idling around. I think I have found an answer to my problem. Mine has the old berkley setup and uses the automotive water pump to circulate water through the engine and samples from the jet pump/through the exhaust path. The first pressure head in my setup is before the engine. Its the only one from there out. I can't see ever having block problems on mine. On yours, I would think you would loose a gasket before a freeze plug..?
This is my first season running a thermostat. Before the stat, mine wouldn't get to 120 at WOT and after. I didn't like that. I like the 140 for sure.
I forgot to add that in an automotive application you have a pressurized system which means that even with higher coolant temps, chances are less of boiling the coolant near the exhaust areas of the water jacket in the heads. Unless you are accounting for constant block pressure more aligned to the automotive levels then I would think temps up around 195 and 200 wouldn't be acceptable. Just a thought.

[Rexone]

Is the thermostat one of our units?
If so they come with a 160 stat.
Normal cycling is between 150-160 and 180-190. 200 on the high end is a bit above the norm but not something that will cause you damage.
And no the thermostat will not blow freeze plugs as it does not significantly affect pressure (always bypassing).
Now if you have some other thermo setup, ignore most of the above.
Also freeze plugs many times are steel from the factory. Not a good combo in a marine engine. I'd change them to brass. You'd have to have extremely high block pressure to blow a freeze plug unless it was half rusted through already (possible). But again, if you have a block pressure problem it is not the result of a Rex thermo unit as they bypass water when they are closed. Also if you had enough pressure to "blow" a freeze plug (a good one, not a rust through) your intake and head gaskets would likely already be gone and filling the engine with water.
Need help just give a call. :)

[waterslinger]

Mainevent, RexOne has a great set up got one for my boat
but will not work with my MSD dist. on my 460 ford.
So if you want one new in the box I got one and ready to deal.
As a drag racer we use a big washer with a hole in it to slow the water down but let it flow all the time.
Moroso makes a kit with 3 washers and 3 dif. holes
1/2, 3/4 and 1in. Have the 3/4 in my boat works good.
130 to 140 all day every day.
Rex, Any Ford set ups in the works???

[Rexone]

Mainevent, RexOne has a great set up got one for my boat
but will not work with my MSD dist. on my 460 ford.
So if you want one new in the box I got one and ready to deal.
As a drag racer we use a big washer with a hole in it to slow the water down but let it flow all the time.
Moroso makes a kit with 3 washers and 3 dif. holes
1/2, 3/4 and 1in. Have the 3/4 in my boat works good.
130 to 140 all day every day.
Rex, Any Ford set ups in the works???
I've seen some guys modify them to fit Fords. Its likely we'll make a billet adapter to do it this winter but haven't started the project yet. :)

[LVjetboy]

I ran a Rex thermostat and never had a freeze plug pop. Like Mike says, popping plugs not a thermostat issue...
200 F seems high to me. Especially considering low block pressure at idle. I adjusted flow to 190 max at idle even on a hot (110 F) day with warm (85 F) lake temps. Then let the thermostat do its thing. Full throttle ran 160-170.
Now I run way lower coolant temps with no thermostat. As in 120 full throttle and 150 idle. My oil temp? Long cruise or full throttle goes well above 250 F. I think oil temp may be more important than water temp. With the thermostat, on a mild 454, I can tell you what oil temp was running if you're interested...way more than a car you can be sure.
Go synthetic? Or ditch the thermostat? Hmmm....
jer

[waterslinger]

RexOne, If you make one for a ford set up please make it work with a big
base dist. like the MSD. Need a test boat you can use mine.