Uhg, Bassets...

[Screemy1]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/showphoto.php?photo=49941&password=&sort=7&thecat=500
I am geting water in my oil?? My headers are the culprit, I'm sure of it.... The gate valve does not seem to do anything... Any ideas? Is it that the spring is too weak in the T valve? Help..... it is going to ruin my weekend...

[Screemy1]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/showphoto.php?photo=49938&password=&sort=7&thecat=521

[BadBahner]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/showphoto.php?photo=49941&password=&sort=7&thecat=500
I am geting water in my oil?? My headers are the culprit, I'm sure of it.... The gate valve does not seem to do anything... Any ideas? Is it that the spring is too weak in the T valve? Help..... it is going to ruin my weekend...
Bummer,
Is water dripping out of your weep holes at idle? If it is then maybe your Tee is allowing water at low pressure. Maybe turn down your inlet valve a little bit. That is what I did to fix mine. Get a new spring too.
Eric

[Screemy1]

Yeah... I need to get a new spring... the valve didn't seem to make a differance... like I was spinning it for fun?? could a weak spring make the valve useless?? or bad valve too? and were would I get a new valve?? Home depot?? :eek!:

[Jeanyus]

Do you have a pressure rudecing regulator.

[HammerDown]

Check to see the ball is free of debris...before installing a pre filter for my headers this sometimes happened to me.
Also check the spring, expand it a little or get a new one.

[Floored]

bassett made a new style seat for the ball and now I havn't broken a spring or any probs for 2 years.

[Screemy1]

What does it look like?? The water routes as follows: goes from pump to block, has one outlet below thermo housing that goes to Basset T valve and then to injecters for the headers.... then another outlet where the thermo would normally go that goes to a gate valve that then leads straight out the back of the transom. The water sprayed from the weap holes from the headers the entire time.... :confused: I took some pics, I will post em in a minute... or two

[sleekvino]

First off your gate valve on the pump should only be opened about 1/2 way. Your temp on your motor should be 140'-160'. If your spring is bad in your bassett "T" valve then that is the problem otherwise your letting too much water in to your system. There should be no water whatsoever other than steam coming out of your headers at 1500 rpm +. If there is, you've got a problem. I put 2 ball valves to each side of my headers and regulated the water going in to them and it works fine. If any more ?'s, pm me.
:yuk:

[Floored]

it looks the same on the outside but they changed the seat area inside for the ball and it reduces the turbulance which gave the ball a vibration that would break the springs. i always carry 2 spare springs, in case anyways. I haven't reset my valves or broken a spring in 2 years and they were breaking about once every weekend before. Call them and ask, they were quite nice to me on the phone and even offered to overnight them to my motel when I was on vacation. to me thats service!!

[MudPumper]

Put a ball valve inbetween the thermo housing and the bassett T to control the amount of water going to the headers. Or just install a Banderlog valve :)

[Screemy1]

Thanks for the info... I will work on it tonight and post my success or failure... I plan on buying a bander log when funds arrive.... Lotto plays on Saturday right? :idea: :D

[Aluminum Squirt]

While this does not directly relate to your problem, pressure is probably contributing. I would suggest a pressure relief valve/regulator between your pump and everything else. I use HTP's and it works well, but there are plenty out there that work. This will give you steady pressure that is much easier to tune and you will never have water in your oil again. Once you get the pressure reduced, tuning all of the ball/gate valves, t-valves, temp etc gets much easier. I'm running the HTP regulator with a Trex thermostat housing and I don't even think about my system anymore, of course my headers are dry which simplifies everything a little. I've heard nothing but good about the Banderlog valve, but with dry headers I'm trying to keep my system as simple/maintenance free as possible. Good luck-Aluminum Squirt

[Cas]

Rio is right, you need a valve between the pump and the engine. You may be putting way too much water pressure into the engine causing all kinds of problems.....hopefully nothing too serious at this point.

[LVjetboy]

Screemy, as others have mentioned, pressure can be the problem not always injection.
How do you know header injection's the problem?
Not to discount checking the spring, adjusting header flow and so on. I've had springs break myself. And carried spares. And modified the design to try to fix the problem. In fact, I posted the problem and a guess at cause before Bassett finally changed their seat design. But you could also have a leaking gasket. Some recommended a regulator others a valve. Both can work. But what pressure's acceptible? Without a block pressure gage it's all guessing what's happening and what your changes do. A long time ago I had milkshake I swore was injection, turned out to be block pressure. And not all engines can handle the same pressure btw depends on the condition of your gaskets and sealing surfaces and engine rpm and so on...
As a start to troubleshooting...I'd recommend running a dampened electric water pressure gage on the dash (temporary or permanent). I've used mechanical on the engine and didn't like looking backward when I was full throttle forward. Only way to know what pressure you're running and how your changes affect that pressure.
jer

[drysumpjet]

What impeller do you have? I may be off base here but I concluded the spring valve is more difficult to deal with when using larger impellors due to their increased flow and pressure at low rpms. (I'm running a 9 1/4). I got to a point (before the Banderlog valve) I would manually turn off the header water via a ball valve installed by the seat. Banderlog valve cured it.

[Hotcrusader76]

bassett made a new style seat for the ball and now I havn't broken a spring or any probs for 2 years.
What year was this change made? Hopefully last year for the sake of my purchase?

[Screemy1]

:confused: My water routing is as follows: Pump to block, 1 discharge to T valve then to headers, Another discharge coming from where the thermo would normally go that leads to a gate valve which leads to a hole out the back of the transom... If I have the gate valve all the way open, is that less water, no water, or what, to the headers??? it seems confusing, I changed the spring in the T valve, which was broken, but where should I mount a ball valve for insurance until I get a banderlog? should I put a ball valve or gate valve from the block before the t valve to control water to the tavalve? It seems like everyone I have seem usally has 2 or more valves to adjust, I only have one?? Thanks for all of the help :smilespi:

[Cas]

pump to valve to engine- you can easily adjust the water flow and pressure into the engine. Too much can blow gaskets, water lines, freeze plugs. A lot of times, those things can happen without a valve installed.
From Thermo housing- 1 line goues into the Bassett tee and then to each side of the headers. The other line has a valve that goes to your dumps, as you close off the valve, it builds pressure in the system which will activate the tee valve. It's the valve you adjust for when you want the t-valve to open/close. As the rpm of the engine increases, so does the water pressure.
Since you're running without the rear valve, you could be putting upwards of 50-60 lbs of pressure in your block that is probably built for no more than about 20-25.

[Screemy1]

So I should install a gate valve on each side of the engine on the line that runs from the pump to the block right? What kind of valve, where do I buy it, can I get it and install it tonight? Any old gate valve that is brass?? Thanks for all the help... I think I understand the works of these headers a whole lot more.

[hondajoey]

Go to the Bassett web site they have good directions on how to route the lines and were to install gate valves i followed there tips the 2nd time and havent had any problems but the first time wasnt good. you can get some 1/2" gate valves from Home Depot for like $4.00 put one on the pump and one one your exit on your transom and put them @ about 1/2 way open and adjust from there to get your idle temp where you want it also make sure your weep holes in the headers are not blocked