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View Full Version : Problems with my Place Diverter...



Scarab Jet
08-10-2004, 06:08 PM
I have the following problems/questions with my Hydraulic Place Diverter that I would appreciate anyone's input on:
- When trimming up or down, the diverter does not go all the way up/down like it used to, how can I find out what is causing this?
- When trimming up, the diverter moves much slower than when trimming down, is this normal? In other words, it takes approximately twice as long to trim up than down.
- How does the Hydraulic Power Unit know when to stop the diverter from going up or down any further? I.e., what is the mechanism that tells the Bennett Hydraulic Power Unit that the diverter is all the way up or down, so it knows to stop pumping the hydrolic fluid?
Should mention that the pump and the whole diverter unit is about 3 years old and the fluid level is also up to where it is supposed to be.
Thanx in advance for any input...
Mike...

Some Kind Of Monster
08-10-2004, 07:05 PM
Does the unit have enough hydraulic oil???

Scarab Jet
08-10-2004, 08:41 PM
Does the unit have enough hydraulic oil???
Yup... I checked the fluid level and it is up to the mark indicated on the fluid reservoir... any other ideas?

bigerich
08-10-2004, 10:27 PM
Prolly a stupid question, but have you disconnected the hydaulics and checked to see if the diverter goes fully up and down if you push on it? Is it possible that there is an obstruction in the linkage for the steering and reverse bucket?? Just a thought.

HalletDave
08-11-2004, 05:30 AM
Make sure there is at least 12 volts getting to the solenoids in the pump. :idea:

probablecause
08-11-2004, 08:26 AM
Mine does the exact same thing. It is getting enought volts and when I am on the throttle, it only goes about 3/4 of the way up. I have to actaully let off of the throttle for a second and it will then go all the way up.
I spoke with Place Diverter in La Habra and they said it could be the solenoid or a combination of things. I don't think there is a way to presure test the lines. As it was explained to me, start by replacing one thing at a time... Obviously they recommended a whole new unit.
Mine also goes up slower than it comes down. Just physics with the firehouse and the upward thrust. Let me know if anyone comes up with a solution. :frown:

copperrat20
08-11-2004, 08:58 AM
Mine did the exact same thing. The problem was, there is only one power wire. It goes into the switch on one side. So the side it went into had more power. I spliced it off and ran power to both sides of the switch and this solved the problem. Just my 2 cents.

MarKist
08-13-2004, 07:01 PM
Mine did the exact same thing. The problem was, there is only one power wire. It goes into the switch on one side. So the side it went into had more power. I spliced it off and ran power to both sides of the switch and this solved the problem. Just my 2 cents.
now thats the reason I sit here read all this ! :cool: you have to pick through the b.s.but its worth it!great info copperrat20 :wink:
MarKist

Scarab Jet
08-13-2004, 09:32 PM
Mine did the exact same thing. The problem was, there is only one power wire. It goes into the switch on one side. So the side it went into had more power. I spliced it off and ran power to both sides of the switch and this solved the problem. Just my 2 cents.
Thanx Copperrat20...
What do you mean by "the both sides of the switch"? Are you talking about the key switch? Right now, I have one orange wire from the hydraulic pump going to the back of my key switch which requires the key to be "on" before I can operate the diverter. Can you please show me a diagram or something of the back of the switch that you are mentioning and where I am supposed to splice the wire?
Thanx in advance....