Bilge Pump Installation Question

[BadBahner]

I currently have a 500 gph NON-automatic bilge pump and I would like to add a second pump that is fully automatic. I am looking at the Rule 500 or something like it.
My questions are will a bilge pump still work if it is on a slight angle? I have no flat floor available due to the 10qt oilpan and what type of glue or adhesive should I use to hold it in there?
Thanks,
Eric

[sidewound]

Mine works ok on an angle. I mounted it so the float rises with the angle. I worried that setting it the other way would bind the float. I mounted it with velcro so I can remove it to get rid of those pesky sticks and stuff that always seem to end up in it.
Peace Man :cool:
CESAR

[Bob Hostetter]

You can mount hte auto bilge pump on an angle, preferrably with the hinge higher the float. Most new boats come with the pump glued to the bottom with either silicone, or glass resin. The velco idea is a good one. It would make it much easier to replace when it goes bad........

[FHI-prez]

....also make sure that the float is either above the pickup hole, or even with it. If you set the float so it's lower than the pickup hole it will keep the pump running and it won't shut off. I did this in mine like a dumbass and had to fix it before I took it out again. The float was just below the pickup hole in the pump and it would work fine until it just about got the water down to where the float would kill the pump, but since the inlet started sucking a bit of air it couldn't expel enough water out of the bilge to shut the pump off. Not really a big deal but kind of a pain in the ass at the lake. :messedup:

[BadBahner]

....also make sure that the float is either above the pickup hole, or even with it. If you set the float so it's lower than the pickup hole it will keep the pump running and it won't shut off. I did this in mine like a dumbass and had to fix it before I took it out again. The float was just below the pickup hole in the pump and it would work fine until it just about got the water down to where the float would kill the pump, but since the inlet started sucking a bit of air it couldn't expel enough water out of the bilge to shut the pump off. Not really a big deal but kind of a pain in the ass at the lake. :messedup:
Thanks for the tips. Are you talking about a separate float switch? The one I was looking at was just a single unit and the float switch was built in somehow to the bilge pump... :cool:
Eric

[malcolm]

I just cleaned the bilge real good and used clear silicone, it's still there a year later. Probably wouldn't do very good if you ever get any gas back there though.

[EliminatorJet]

Both my bilge pumps sit at an angle, and work great. When I bought the boat it had one bilge and it was epoxied to the hull with the same epoxy used around the jet pump intake. The pump is a mayfair 1000gph with a removeable base, so you can change it out or clean it without having to re-epoxy.

[79miller]

I just cleaned the bilge real good and used clear silicone, it's still there a year later. Probably wouldn't do very good if you ever get any gas back there though.
I did the same and it works great. I used one of the water witch switches (say that fast 3 times) that has no moving parts. I has 2 electric pads that sense water and it works great, no float to worry about getting stuck. It also has to sense water for a certian about of time, so it doesn't cycle on and off as the boat rocks.
Rex has 'em: Rex (http://www.rexmar.com/page156.html)