West System EPOXY

[sifocalpoint]

In a previous post i was told about West Sytem Expoxy and Mek Polyester, Does anyone else reccomend anything for doing the v-drive floor in my schiada flat, I was going to sand it well then coat it.....Whats the best method..Roller, Brush???

[coolchange]

Go to the west system site and get a test package. Practice on a piece of plywood. Follow directions. I had a flat that I gel coated the floor on. Fawn beige and it looked low key, like wood. A friend liked it so much that he did it. Asked me what to do and I said go and get some gel coat and brush it in. He did and called me later and asked how long should it take to dry? I asked how much catalyst he used? He said"CATALYST?" Follow directions.

[david_396]

How many gallon/gallons to do a 19' boats floor?

[david_396]

west system link
http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/home/introduction.htm

[kipperps28]

With a gallon kit you will do your floor and have some left over. The pump kit makes the mixing a breeze. I used to mix acetone with it. That's fine, but MEK is better. Try to keep the temp in your shop around 70 or so, and don't mix too much at a time (it will get too hot in the pot and will cure before you can lay it down). It is awesome stuff. It is the only resin I used to install the capsule in my pro stock.

[BrendellaJet]

How well does it work when you brush gel vs spraying?

[cdnguitarsnboats]

Hi Guys,
I'm not the world's foremost expert, but I've worked with West System on race boats (inboard hydros) for about 15 years.
For structural repairs or enhancements, West System can't be beaten. It's a little expensive ($70ish/gal resin, $25ish catalyst), but it's ease of use, strength, and longevity make it a worthwhile consideration.
Note that I said "structural repairs". For fine finishing, such as doing a glossy floor, I wouldn't really recommend it.
First, epoxy takes a while to set. I say this as if you are working in temperatures over 70 degrees, you're pretty much stuck using the slow cure (#206) catalyst if you're working on a large area. Otherwise, the pot life is too short. Even with the slow cure, you can't mix too much at any one time or it takes on a life of its own. While it can be exciting to watch a pot of epoxy smoke like crazy, it tends to work against your productivity.
The reason I mention the cure time (about 8 hours) is that epoxy really likes condensation. So, if it's humid, rainy, or even dewy in the morning, the chances are pretty good that your epoxy is going to turn cloudy. Some of that is the wax in the resin, but the cure itself will have a milky appearance. This doesn't weaken it at all, but it definately works against what you're trying to achieve.
There is a "clear finish" catalyst (#207), but the other thing is that UV rays really do a job on epoxy coatings unless they're protected. Protected means either by paint, varnish, or some UV inhibiting coating. So, after going through all the trouble to thin and sand your new floor so that it's really flat, you'd have to clear over it anyway.
Good luck with your project, but I thought you might like some things to consider before making your final decision.
Jim

[BILLY.B]

Hi Guys,
I'm not the world's foremost expert, but I've worked with West System on race boats (inboard hydros) for about 15 years.
For structural repairs or enhancements, West System can't be beaten. It's a little expensive ($70ish/gal resin, $25ish catalyst), but it's ease of use, strength, and longevity make it a worthwhile consideration.
Note that I said "structural repairs". For fine finishing, such as doing a glossy floor, I wouldn't really recommend it.
First, epoxy takes a while to set. I say this as if you are working in temperatures over 70 degrees, you're pretty much stuck using the slow cure (#206) catalyst if you're working on a large area. Otherwise, the pot life is too short. Even with the slow cure, you can't mix too much at any one time or it takes on a life of its own. While it can be exciting to watch a pot of epoxy smoke like crazy, it tends to work against your productivity.
The reason I mention the cure time (about 8 hours) is that epoxy really likes condensation. So, if it's humid, rainy, or even dewy in the morning, the chances are pretty good that your epoxy is going to turn cloudy. Some of that is the wax in the resin, but the cure itself will have a milky appearance. This doesn't weaken it at all, but it definately works against what you're trying to achieve.
There is a "clear finish" catalyst (#207), but the other thing is that UV rays really do a job on epoxy coatings unless they're protected. Protected means either by paint, varnish, or some UV inhibiting coating. So, after going through all the trouble to thin and sand your new floor so that it's really flat, you'd have to clear over it anyway.
Good luck with your project, but I thought you might like some things to consider before making your final decision.
Jim Great post Jim. I have found the same thing when it came to the epoxy system. Tends to get kinda milky looking compared to the polyester stuff. I use DuraTec clear flow coat. Flows out nice and can be rubbed if desired. Stays clear.