Prop Shaft question

[78DiMarco]

How much play (if any) between the strut and the shaft is acceptable? I was checking my boat and it has a little slop.
Thanks!

[lucky]

if it moves need to replace ...

[Rexone]

about 10 thou or less is normal new (after wear in). gets bigger from there. I've seen boats run a long time with that clearance. But if anything is outta balance it can tear em up quick and enlarge the clearance. So can extremely sandy conditions. even if your clearance is more that that it doesn't necessarily mean it needs to be changed. Depends on how fast it's getting worse. Every boat's a little different. I've run with .050 or so clearance for a long time without issue on some boats. Other boats that .050 will turn into .100 in a day.
Hows that for a vague answer. :messedup:

[ACCEPTENCE]

about 10 thou or less is normal new (after wear in). gets bigger from there. I've seen boats run a long time with that clearance. But if anything is outta balance it can tear em up quick and enlarge the clearance. So can extremely sandy conditions. even if your clearance is more that that it doesn't necessarily mean it needs to be changed. Depends on how fast it's getting worse. Every boat's a little different. I've run with .050 or so clearance for a long time without issue on some boats. Other boats that .050 will turn into .100 in a day.
Hows that for a vague answer. :messedup:
I had one of those other boats that turned .050 into .125 in less then a weekend.
Spent the coin for a new propeller and that fixed the problem right up.
Prop slop can be very dangerous ya know, fix it!!!!

[bocco]

Since I noticed a little extra clearance myself the other day day can I hijack this thread into a discussion on how to change the bushing and which type is the best replacement?
I'm a rooky at this but it looks like I have to remove my rudder to get the prop shaft out. How is the bushing then removed?
Thanks
Gary

[Tom Foolery]

I've only done it once so take my advice with a grain of salt.
I used a blade from a hacksaw and cut through the bearing. Once the cut was made I was able to slide the bearing out. It may take some taping from the other side with a screwdriver.
To put a new bearing in in I used a piece of allthread rod with a washer & nut on each end. Leave a nut & washer on one side and remove it from the other, then place the all thread through the strut and bushing you are trying to put in. Put the last nut & washer on the other side and get out your ratchet.
Someone else may have a better way but this worked for me.
Also, they come in 4" lenghts so you cut it in half and put two inches in each end. Even though they do not touch they should line up like before you cut it.

[Highlimit9000]

Well said. Good Advise!

[Jet City]

Thanks Rex and Tom, I'm new to this whole prop deal so this is helpful. I had checked this on mine and had no idea what was tolerable, have to break out the travel dial to know for sure, but thanks again for answering my question before I asked.

[bocco]

Tom Foolery, thanks for info. It doesn't sound difficult to change.
Does anybody have opinions on the different types of bushings or where to get them from?

[superdave013]

Tom Foolery, thanks for info. It doesn't sound difficult to change.
Does anybody have opinions on the different types of bushings or where to get them from?
The cheep ones from REX. They are a fiber type of deal. donno the real name.

[V-Drive Tom]

Bocco, Just use the fiber type. They are the eseiest to deal with. What matters most is that your v-drive is lined up real straight with the prop shaft. Fiber bushings will last many years if you are not boating in real crappy water.
Cost is about $15.00, Cost on brass with rubber is about $35.00. Call me if you like. TOM..

[78DiMarco]

Thanks for the info. Now I need to find out how much play I do have. I hope it is with in the specs posted.
Tom, I need to call you and talk props. I will get in-touch soon.

[Jet City]

The cheep ones from REX. They are a fiber type of deal. donno the real name.
Very cool, I should receive my fiber ones from Rex today, they were $11.99.

[ColeTR1]

Very cool, I should receive my fiber ones from Rex today, they were $11.99.
Push the front one in about 1/16, so it cups the water making the water go into strut to keep them cool. and don't run it it gear out of the water it will smoke them in seconds!!

[Jet City]

Push the front one in about 1/16, so it cups the water making the water go into strut to keep them cool. and don't run it it gear out of the water it will smoke them in seconds!!
Thanks! More good advice, I'll follow that advice.

[superdave013]

Very cool, I should receive my fiber ones from Rex today, they were $11.99.
You only need one. Cut it in half. About 2" or so in each end.

[Jet City]

You only need one. Cut it in half. About 2" or so in each end.
Thanks SD, the guys at Rex already wised me up to that, I only bought one. The next thing I realized I had forgot to order was a prop puller, got lucky and found a really nice one at the local Mastercraft dealer for $65. made by "OJ Props", thought I'd share that for anyone in a similar bind.

[GofastRacer]

Push the front one in about 1/16, so it cups the water making the water go into strut to keep them cool. and don't run it it gear out of the water it will smoke them in seconds!!
Yep it does increase the life of the bushing, I made a tool that indexes it an 1/8 inch works great!... :cool:

[GofastRacer]

In addition to the above info: Before you cut the bushing draw a line on it, then line up the lines when installing them, most of the time they are not bored dead center and if you put them opposite, they will wear real quick also it will a bitch to slip the shaft in!...

[V-DRIVE VIDEO]

Some guys drill an 1/8 in hole in the middle of the barrel.

[Jet City]

Well I got it all done today, I followed everyones advice and it went okay (even pushed the front one in 1/16 or so), the only thing I'm a bit bummed over is I still have .020 play between the new bushings and the prop-shaft. The bushings went in very snug, my prop-shaft measures .996 (prop side) and .998 (ahead of barrel), I didn't measure the new bushing I.D., but I bet they're over 1.010.
Sorry for the rambling, question is will .020 last okay or am I going to have to re-do this soon. At least with the new log seal I won't be taking on a gallon of water every minute.

[Rexone]

Well I got it all done today, I followed everyones advice and it went okay (even pushed the front one in 1/16 or so), the only thing I'm a bit bummed over is I still have .020 play between the new bushings and the prop-shaft. The bushings went in very snug, my prop-shaft measures .996 (prop side) and .998 (ahead of barrel), I didn't measure the new bushing I.D., but I bet they're over 1.010.
Sorry for the rambling, question is will .020 last okay or am I going to have to re-do this soon. At least with the new log seal I won't be taking on a gallon of water every minute.
Should be fine if you don't have a condition present that would tear it up....
as in out of balance situation, bent shaft, etc, etc.

[Jet City]

Should be fine if you don't have a condition present that would tear it up....
as in out of balance situation, bent shaft, etc, etc.
Thanks Mike, that makes me feel better.

[FLYTE RISK]

If I am not mistaking that bushing should swell slightly when in water.. It should be all good!! :)

[Wildboats]

Good advise here, So today while working on my boat I did a visual and there is some play in my prop shaft. dial indicator is at work, but I'll bet it is near the .050 mark. Now here's the deal....the strut is chrome, I dont know how old it is. I dont have any vibration or water coming in through the seal eather. Is this a leave it alone situation ??
Not trying to hyjack the thread here..... :smile:

[Rexone]

Personally if there's no vibration and its not deteriorating further I would continue to run it. Just keep and eye on the clearence and if it's getting bigger change it. I had a Hondo for several years that had this condition and never got worse or had a problem because of it. Neither would it keep a tight new bearing for some reason. I ran it a long time without issues.

[bocco]

So my next question on this thread is how to remove and replace the shaft itself. I should have a new bushing from Rex by the end of the week. The shaft is connected to my C500 by a four bolt flang and it looks to me like all that holds the shaft into the flange is one set screw. Is that it? Next question is what about my seal when I put the shaft back in? I'm not sure what kind of seal I have. It's looks like it's mostly white vinyl or PVC.
I hope to tackle this on Saturday.
Thanks in advance.
Gary

[Rexone]

So my next question on this thread is how to remove and replace the shaft itself. I should have a new bushing from Rex by the end of the week. The shaft is connected to my C500 by a four bolt flang and it looks to me like all that holds the shaft into the flange is one set screw. Is that it? Next question is what about my seal when I put the shaft back in? I'm not sure what kind of seal I have. It's looks like it's mostly white vinyl or PVC.
I hope to tackle this on Saturday.
Thanks in advance.
Gary
You are correct on the accessment of the c500 flange. It would be a good idea to put new rope packing in the white seal housing (rope packing that is designed to drip a little for lubrication). We should have the replacement packing. We also build shafts to length.
Also make sure you are running a safety collar on the shaft in front of the seal in case it were ever to come loose from the flange.

[BGMAN203]

Good advise here, So today while working on my boat I did a visual and there is some play in my prop shaft. dial indicator is at work, but I'll bet it is near the .050 mark. Now here's the deal....the strut is chrome, I dont know how old it is. I dont have any vibration or water coming in through the seal eather. Is this a leave it alone situation ??
Not trying to hyjack the thread here..... :smile:
If you plan on racing with any orginazation, any chrome underwater gear will not pass tech inspection.

[spectras only]

The shaft is connected to my C500 by a four bolt flang and it looks to me like all that holds the shaft into the flange is one set screw. Is that it?
Thanks in advance.
Gary[/QUOTE] Bocco , there could be two setscrews rather than one [top of each other],so look it at carefully before trying to pull the flange off the shaft :idea:

[bocco]

The shaft is connected to my C500 by a four bolt flang and it looks to me like all that holds the shaft into the flange is one set screw. Is that it?
Thanks in advance.
Gary Bocco , there could be two setscrews rather than one [top of each other],so look it at carefully before trying to pull the flange off the shaft :idea:[/QUOTE]
Yup there were 2 set screws. And the shaft did not want to come out of the flange. Finally unbolted the flange and used a dampener puller to push the shaft out of the flange. So now I have a shaft thats hitting my rudder which I unbolted from the inside of the boat so it slides down and hits the prop guard on the trailer.
Know I either have to try to slide the boat back 6 inches or move one inch to the left or right. Any opinions?
Thanks
Gary

[MKEELINE]

Bocco,
If you have room, it might be easier to pull the v-drive out and slide the shaft out the top.
A good fix on the flange is to machine a pocket on the back side of the flange deep enough to fit a bolt and washer. then drill and tap the prop shaft and bolt the flange to the prop shaft. Also, make sure you dimple the prop shaft were the set screws go and use two set screws w/locktite, one locking down on top of the other.

[spectras only]

[QUOTE=bocco
So now I have a shaft thats hitting my rudder which I unbolted from the inside of the boat so it slides down and hits the prop guard on the trailer.
Know I either have to try to slide the boat back 6 inches or move one inch to the left or right. Any opinions?
Thanks
Gary[/QUOTE] Bocco , all you need to do is jacking up the stern a few inches by the keel and the rudder will drop out.

[bocco]

OK, so I jacked up the boat just enough to get the rudder to slide past the prop guard and hit the concrete. I put a 4x4 between the boat and the bunk and proceeded to jack up the trailer until the rudder dropped out. Very long shaft on that rudder. Taking out the V-drive wouldn't have been an option because there is a bulkhead between the stringers just in front of the V-drive.
Managed to get one of the bushings out. Hope to get the other one tonight and press in the new ones.
I got some threaded rod and washers to press the bushings in. Should I use any thing to lubricate it so it slips in? Or be wildman and go at it dry?

[Jet City]

OK, so I jacked up the boat just enough to get the rudder to slide past the prop guard and hit the concrete. I put a 4x4 between the boat and the bunk and proceeded to jack up the trailer until the rudder dropped out. Very long shaft on that rudder. Taking out the V-drive wouldn't have been an option because there is a bulkhead between the stringers just in front of the V-drive.
Managed to get one of the bushings out. Hope to get the other one tonight and press in the new ones.
I got some threaded rod and washers to press the bushings in. Should I use any thing to lubricate it so it slips in? Or be wildman and go at it dry?
I'm certainly no expert, but I was able to press mine in dry, I was nervous that they might slip if I used grease. Be careful, the last 1/2" is really tight. The prop shaft on my boat came out with putting the tung of the traler on the ground, the rudder is offset enough to allow the shaft to come out without removing the rudder.