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View Full Version : Looking for a metal fabricator / Machining guy



OutCole'd
08-25-2004, 02:16 PM
My exhaust sits up too high on my transom so I do not have the clearance for some new Rex mufflers. I need a couple of spacers made to back off the transom about 1" and angle it down to clear the swim step.
Any ideas????http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1075Magic_exhaust.jpg

ROZ
08-25-2004, 02:17 PM
Contact RD!!! :D

Rexone
08-25-2004, 02:19 PM
You will need just a "straight" spacer with the top corner beveled off from what I'm seeing. You don't want to wedge it or change the angle of the tip. That will cause alignment problems inside at the hose/riser.

OutCole'd
08-25-2004, 02:35 PM
You will need just a "straight" spacer with the top corner beveled off from what I'm seeing. You don't want to wedge it or change the angle of the tip. That will cause alignment problems inside at the hose/riser.
Good point Mike. How long are the studs on your mufflers? Can they be extended to the thickness of the spacer?

OGShocker
08-25-2004, 02:39 PM
If RD can't help try these guys (http://www.ddwire.com/)

dmontzsta
08-25-2004, 03:09 PM
You might want to try a board member named "v-drive" he knows a ton about metals.

Rexone
08-25-2004, 03:14 PM
I will measure studs for you. Can always use longer ones if necessary. How thick's your transom?

OutCole'd
08-25-2004, 05:59 PM
I will measure studs for you. Can always use longer ones if necessary. How thick's your transom?
Not sure, I will call the boys at Magic tomorro and ask them. I think I have a line on a machinist to do the work, now just need to design them. Looks like we will need two sets.

OutCole'd
08-25-2004, 07:27 PM
Here is my artist rendering of what I will need. Obviously it is not deadly accurate.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1075scan.jpg

ROZ
08-25-2004, 11:05 PM
Close enough for government work! :supp:

Rexone
08-26-2004, 03:11 AM
Go a few thou oversize on the hole or the 4" tube will not slide through it.
If I were doing it I would sand a block of wood to use as a template to match the radius under your step rather than just slicing the top off like that. Both will work, my feeling is it would look better not just sliced off.
If you'd like to see what I mean PM me a fax number tomorrow and I'll draw a little sketch.
:)

HighRoller
08-26-2004, 07:32 AM
PM WSUWRHR. He can hook you up.

OutCole'd
08-26-2004, 07:50 AM
Go a few thou oversize on the hole or the 4" tube will not slide through it.
If I were doing it I would sand a block of wood to use as a template to match the radius under your step rather than just slicing the top off like that. Both will work, my feeling is it would look better not just sliced off.
If you'd like to see what I mean PM me a fax number tomorrow and I'll draw a little sketch.
:)
Got the sketch Mike. Thanks.

v-drive
08-26-2004, 08:22 AM
Here is my artist rendering of what I will need. Obviously it is not deadly accurate.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1075scan.jpg
Why are you using stainless? Doesn't seem cost effective,aluminum is much easier to machine, cheaper,lighter, and if you are worried about corrosion anodize it. :hammerhea v-drive

superdave013
08-26-2004, 08:41 AM
Just about done! lol I was just making some parts pretty close to what you are needing. But like v-drive said, I used 6061-T6 alum.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1503steering_ext2-med.JPG
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1503steering_ext_indicator-med.JPG