Metal chemical reactions?

[Outnumbered]

Anybody know anything about metal to metal and compatibility?
Here is my problem: New house has upgraded appliances from builder. GE is what they offer. Not my first choice but WTF. So anyway we get a GE dishwasher that retails for about $700 with standard tub. Two weeks into the house we are getting rust stains on our new silverware. Turns out the ball-bearings in the rack tracks are rusting and dripping rust onto the silverware. :( GE says: bad batch of bearings. I tell the builder to replace it with SS tub model and they get me a new $1,000 model with full stainless tub N/C. Cool!
Two weeks later the phucking new $1,000 full stainless DW is doing the same thing. I pulled the tracks apart and the bearings are pitted and rusting the tracks. The bearings have minimal rust but the tracks are f'ed up from where the bearings sit while the rack is pushed all the way in. The bearings look like stainless, they are shiny. The tracks may be stainless but they are dull and a little blued so they may be an alloy or some type of carbon steal? The tub is semi-polished stainless. The tracks are tack welded to the tub from what I can tell.
My questions (Our water is hard and we have not yet got a softener installed):
1) Is there a possible chemical reaction going on with the bearings and the tracks and the water?
2) Is there such a thing as a rust-proof bearing?
3) How can a stainless bearing rust?
4) Will a softener solve this problem?
Sorry for the long post but I am stumped.
Thanks,
OL

[Outnumbered]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/973Dishwasher_001.jpg

[Outnumbered]

Just did a little research and found out that lower quality stainless bearings (440) are magnetic. So I tested out mine and they are attracted to the magnet. I thought all stainless was non-magnetic. Also found out that the tracks are non-magnetic.
Anyone know where I can get a small quantity of high quality non-magnetic (316) 5/16 SS bearings?
Thanks

[NorCal Gameshow]

boca bearings (http://http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&id=7563&n=4MM_316_SS_GR100_BALLS)

[Outnumbered]

Thanks but I can't get the link to work.
OL

[NorCal Gameshow]

sorry, try www.bocabearings.com

[Outnumbered]

Thanks. They only carry 440 SS which is what I already have. I can go ceramic but they are $7 per ball :sqeyes:
That would solve my rust problems though so I may have to do that. Thanks!!
OL

[spectratoad]

Just take out the dishwasher put in a under counter bar and eat on paper plates. :cool:
That is wierd, I would have the manufacturer look into it a little more while you are at it. I have hard water here too but don't have this problem. Mine is an lower cost Admiral with SS rails and plastic wheels.

[lewiville]

OL,
try this. take a sample of your water to the nearest pool supply house. I did this with our pool water and guess what.....we have a high content of "cooper". you might have some other minerals that they can find. they do it for free ( hoping that you buy chemicals ). you never know what you might find.

[sorry dog]

I second that...water might be a contributing factor...especially if yours has a high chlorine content- like if the water plant is close by to you.
I pulled this from a metal's site on corrosion-
The corrosion resistance of grade 440C approximates that of grade 304 in many environments.
I'm not sure 440 is lower quality. It's main purpose is to be very hard for good wear properties at the expense of strength.
I've worked with 304 alot and I've seen it rust over time but that's usually in pretty extreme environments like chlorine, SO2, and sewer applications.
Sometimes we have used 316 when an owner wanted a little more.
BTW - magnet will have a little attraction to 304 but very little to 316.

[Misogynist]

Try searching for some bearings at www.mcmaster.com .... They may have what you need. good luck. :clover:

[OLDRAT]

Any local bearing supply house should have 300 series balls in that size.
Just make sure you tell them you do not want any 400 series stainless.
It appears the manufacturer obtained the wrong alloy or was shipped the
wrong alloy ball bearings. All 400 series has a certain amount of ferrous
iron in it's makeup. Try to find some 300 series like Sorry Dog said and
the problems will be over. There is no telling how many units they put
together like this....you should contact the manufacturer and advise them
of this problem (I bet they already know since you are not the only one
with a high iron content in their water). They may send you replacements
or reemburse you for your out of pocket expenses for new bearings.
You can passivate the 400 series with nitric acid to remove the free-iron
content, but it would be easier to get new bearings (and would be safer).
That really sucks! Good luck.
OR

[PHX ATC]

Sell the house and move.
Don't forget to disclose the nasty dishwasher problem and that big rock you're living on top of! :D

[Outnumbered]

:D :D :D Sell the house and move.
Don't forget to disclose the nasty dishwasher problem and that big rock you're living on top of! :D

[Outnumbered]

Thanks for the replies. From what I read last night on the web, 316 is food prep grade stainless and has a higher corrosion resistance then 304, especially in a chloride environment which I would assume chlorinated tap water would be. The problem is finding a supplier to get a small quantity of 316 loose BBs from. Bike shops have 304 but I am not sure it will work as well as the 316. What do you guys think of ceramic?
OL

[OLDRAT]

OL,
Get the 304, they will be better than what you have and should work
OK. Yes, 316 is the premium grade if you can get it.

[lewiville]

OL,
while your at it, dont test the river water, I DONT THINK I WANT TO KNOW :eek: