Timing Cover Dowel - Also Oil Supplement Question

[PC Rat]

I'm finally getting started putting my 548 together - actually the machine shop put the shortblock together and I'll do the rest.
Very first thing I do is try to put my belt drive on. The locating dowel for the timing cover is bigger than the hole in the belt drive housing (it's a Bow Tie block). Is there some kind of a tapered locating pin that I can use to fit the smaller hole for the belt drive?
Also, what oil do you use for break in? How about oil supplements for break in? My engine has a solid roller cam. I've heard good things about the GM EOS, but is this mainly for flat tappet cams?
Brian

[wsuwrhr]

How much bigger. A little help here.
Maybe make a spacer, similar to a dowel with a hole drilled in it?
Brian
I'm finally getting started putting my 548 together - actually the machine shop put the shortblock together and I'll do the rest.
Very first thing I do is try to put my belt drive on. The locating dowel for the timing cover is bigger than the hole in the belt drive housing (it's a Bow Tie block). Is there some kind of a tapered locating pin that I can use to fit the smaller hole for the belt drive?
Also, what oil do you use for break in? How about oil supplements for break in? My engine has a solid roller cam. I've heard good things about the GM EOS, but is this mainly for flat tappet cams?
Brian

[Infomaniac]

The belt drive cover can be drilled to the size of the dowel or machine a "stepped" dowel. Just turn down the portion of the dowels that protrude past the block to the size of the cover if you dont want to alter it.
The only thing in a roller engine that reeally needs broken in is the rings seated. Put whatever oil you are going to run in it and go for it.

[wsuwrhr]

What a dork, after reading Info's post I had to re-read PC rat's post.
The hole in the timing cover is SMALLER than the dowel pin?
Just drill and ream the hole to the right size. Easy deal.
Brian

[PC Rat]

Put whatever oil you are going to run in it and go for it.
I plan on running Mobil 1 in it. Maybe I'll break it in on straight 30wt dino oil.

[steelcomp]

I either take the dowels out or drill the holes oversized. Then put the cover on with the bolts loose, and install tha balancer. Once the balancer has a good engagement in the seal, tighten the bolts a little at a time in a cross pattern, so as not to move the cover. This will ensure that the seal and balancer are concentric. I've seen too many covers where the dowel holes aren't in the right place enough to cause front seal leakage. In the case of the belt drive, do the same with the cam seal.

[502 JET]

Did you contact the manufacturer and ask them their opinion?After all they made it that way.

[PC Rat]

Steel,
I was thinking about just pulling them out. But I didn't think about them not being in the correct location - I guess I may be better off with them out.
Brian
For Sale:

[Moneypitt]

Did you contact the manufacturer and ask them their opinion?After all they made it that way.
This is by far the best suggestion. If the belt drive were made with a big hole, then you would be loose if the block had a small dowel pin. So, they probably make them all small for a greater coverage of the different year engines. They will probably tell you to open up the existing holes to the larger dowel size, which is quite easily done without "moving" the hole position. This location is critical since you have 2 seals to make happy........As far as break in is concerned, IF the engine was properly clearanced, assembled with care and workmanship, with the "good" stuff, break in lasts about 2 minutes, moly rings seal almost instantly, take it out and wring it's neck with what ever oil you plan on using, (Mobil one isn't MY first choice, but?) the era of "break in" oil is long since past. .............MP