lots of questions

[dtr352]

OK so I just got all the motor pieces back from the machine shop. This my first motor assembly so bear with me. The questions are going to flow. I have a few simple ones before I start.
1. Once its all assembled how soon does it have to be started. Should I try to do it all in one day?
2. I am worried about breaking in the new cam. How should I set the timing so it fires quickly and runs for several minutes. I don't want it to stall so I have to keep cranking it over.
3. I noticed when I got home that the timing gear isn't on the crank. Do I need to have the shop press it on or can I install it? How?
4. What is the best way to prime the oil pump?
Thats all for now. I have a chevy manual that is fairly detailed that I will follow since the motor is pretty stock. I'm trying to get everything squared away before I start. Thanks for the help. I will try to post pics of the buildup or atleast the finished product.

[GofastRacer]

1 If you used good assembly lube it can sit for however long as it takes because the lube won't run away.
2 If you have a roller cam, there's no break in. If you have a flat tappet then you will need to run it at around 2500 for at least 20 minutes varying the rpm's at times. Set your timing as you would normally do, make sure you have fuel!..When it fires hold the throttle open enough to keep the r's up and set the idle screw to 2500 and let er rip for 20 minutes, watch oil pressure and water temp!..
3 The timing gear is a piece of cake, I use the tube from a jack stand it fits right over the crank, just tap it on!.
4 You can buy a tool for priming or you can make one out of an old distributor!..

[Some Kind Of Monster]

4. I made a priming tool like Go Fast says except I used an old oil pump drive shaft (the kind with a sleeve). I use a cordless drill and spin it up to prime it.

[GofastRacer]

That won't work by itself, you need the ditributor housing because the lower part is part of an oil passage and without it you will have a massive leak and oil will not get to the top!..You need to get oil all through the motor not just into the pump!.

[Some Kind Of Monster]

Really? I got the idea from a Chiltons manual! I'll see if I can dig up the article.

[dtr352]

How do you monitor oil pressure. Just rig up the gauge from the boat or what.

[BrendellaJet]

make sure you put an oil filter on before you prime it! :cry:
Forgot to do that once!

[Fiat48]

Really? I got the idea from a Chiltons manual! I'll see if I can dig up the article.
Do it like GofastRacer says.

[Some Kind Of Monster]

Still looking...
You could always do it the OEM way with this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2490687868&category=43998&sspagename=WDVW

[GofastRacer]

How do you monitor oil pressure. Just rig up the gauge from the boat or what.
You hook up the guage from an oil passage in the block!.. :smile:

[GofastRacer]

Still looking...
You could always do it the OEM way with this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2490687868&category=43998&sspagename=WDVW
Yep, that collar is the same as a distributor housing which is part of an oil passage!..Cheaper to make one out of a junk distributor though!.. ;)

[paradigm shift]

How do you monitor oil pressure. Just rig up the gauge from the boat or what.
You can rig up a gauge but for priming I don't usually bother just make sure the sending unit is in or all the holes are plugged. You will know when you have pressure from the drag on the drill. You just want to make sure you have oil passages primed. Always worked for me. :rollside:

[GofastRacer]

make sure you put an oil filter on before you prime it! :cry:
Forgot to do that once!
That is too funny!.. :D :D

[GofastRacer]

You can rig up a gauge but for priming I don't usually bother just make sure the sending unit is in or all the holes are plugged. You will know when you have pressure from the drag on the drill. You just want to make sure you have oil passages primed. Always worked for me. :rollside:
You want more than just drag on the drill motor, you want to see oil flowing out of every pushrod on the rockers, then you know all the air is gone and you have solid oil flowing on startup!.... :smile:

[Some Kind Of Monster]

That won't work by itself, you need the ditributor housing because the lower part is part of an oil passage and without it you will have a massive leak and oil will not get to the top!..You need to get oil all through the motor not just into the pump!.
Dammit, I found the manual, but it was for a different motor. I'm going to prime this thing up in a few days hopefully. I'll probably look you up then Art. Thanks for catching my error.

[GofastRacer]

Dammit, I found the manual, but it was for a different motor. I'm going to prime this thing up in a few days hopefully. I'll probably look you up then Art. Thanks for catching my error.
This is what I made, cost me a $1.50!.. :)
Give me a call when you're ready, I'll give ya a hand breaking it in!..
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/505/12Oil_Pump_Primer.jpg

[Fiat48]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/374DSCF0033.JPG
This wonderful custom made priming tool was made in the 60's.
A genuine dual point cast iron Corvette distributor :burningm: that the distributor gear has been ground down with a hand grinder. Then a bolt was brazed to the top of it so it could be turned with a drill (yes, there were electric drills even in those days. And Chevron Custom Supreme was 35 cents a gallon.)
Later on when Tall deck blocks were discovered, the collar was ground off so it could be used to prime tall deck blocks.

[78Eliminator]

You're that old Fiat? ;)

[Fiat48]

No, it was GofastRacers old one. :p :D

[GofastRacer]

Yeah right, take a look at mine that old man probably invented that old thing!..LMAO!.... :D :D :D :D

[GofastRacer]

Just think though what that distributor would be worth today!.. :jawdrop: :D

[superdave013]

just go to your speed shop and buy a priming tool. They are less then 20 bucks these days.
But like gofast says, ya wanna see oil comming out of every push rod.
Oh, I didn't forget the filter but I did forget the plug from the end of the oil galley once. Friggen motor plate was covering it and it took me a few to figure out were the mess was comming from!

[78Eliminator]

Isn't the next logical step, to turn the crank 180 degrees, then run the priming tool again? Then, with the plugs out, turn the motor over and get that oil press up again? That's what I did last time I installed a new motor. But I am kind of anal when it comes to it.........

[Fiat48]

I run the priming tool till the drill can't stand it much longer. Then I turn the motor and run it again. Then I do it again. Unless someone is there in the shop who can turn the motor for me while I am priming.
But the reason for that is I build all roller valve train...and can never get oil to every pushrods due to the restrictions of the small holes and most of the time I run top end restrictors. I always lubricate springs, pusrod tips and rocker arms on assembly also.
But yes..with a "normal" valve train you wanna see oil out all the pushrods and rockers.

[GofastRacer]

On a roller deal I dip the rockers, lifters and pushrods in oil, then the last quart of oil gets poured all over the valvetrain!..

[Moneypitt]

I know there will be mixed feeling here about this subject, however "I" would highly recommend using some sort of oil aditive after a few hours running. The brand is unimportant as most all that stuff is close to the same. Prolong, slick 50, duralube, IXL, etc. I am here to say that shit works, and will save your ass in the event of an oil pressure loss......Again, wait till the rings have seated, and gain a little insurance..................My .02 MP

[dtr352]

The block is painted. I will try to post pics soon. I want to get going on the motor this weekend so I have been reading everything I can for extra knowledge. I saw an article about degreeing the cam somewhere. Is this necisary. My manual doesn't say anything about it but then again its very generic. thanks

[dtr352]

Ok I have all the pistons assembled and installed. I need to know the best way to install/ degree the cam. It is a new cam from comp cams. I have the specs somewhere but I don't know if it matters for the installation. Any help you guys could offer would be great. I have spent enough money so far I would hate to screw anything up.

[CARLSON-JET]

plug the cam in "straight up".. focus on the basics.

[dtr352]

What do you mean straight up. Just use the marks on the timing gears or what. Also what should the clearances be on the rods where they bolt to the crank. Crank to side of rod? Between the rods? Both the crank and rods are stock but everything seems awfull close together.

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

Go to autozone and give them a $20 deposit for a oil pump priming tool. Then when your done return it for your $20;)
396

[CARLSON-JET]

0- straight up
triangle-4*advance
rectangle-4*retard
on a cloyes roller these marks are on the crank sprocket and match up to the cam timing gear marks .. straight up is 0 degrees meaning no advance or retard.. it keeps it simple.. some cam companies like edelbrock build in advance when grinding the cam . so playing with it disturbs this .. unless you are well versed in these mods its tricky... a good cam profile that matches your build will usually not need any adv/ ret. . as for the side clearance on the rods I believe about .015 to .023 is recomended ...[ "gurus" please feel obligated to point out my misinformation and how my/his boat will sink ,catch on fire or even better yet, implode the world.] you know you want too .. spew on ... R.B.

[dtr352]

Ok I tried to install the cam yesturday and who would have guessed, it came with directions. About three pages of them too pretty detailed. Explained everything I have been woried about. Don't I feel stupid now. Anyway My question is this. Is it possable to install the cam bearings in the wrong locations,are they different sizes. The cam won't slide into the fourth bearing. It is lined up but it won't go in any further.

[Infomaniac]

Se if there is a burr on the rear bearing front edge.
Also see if the cam is bent.
Support the cam by the end journals and rotate it. Check with a dial indicator. I have had this problem with Comp.