Cavitation Setup Questions Please Help!!

[sifocalpoint]

My schiada is down the the bare hull, im fitting everything before paint. The boat is getting all new cavitation hardware and im confused about the pedl setup. The old adjustable plate stuff was not with the boat.
Now i need to order a new stainless shaft that goes from the pedal and handle to the control rod in the rear of the boat. Im unsure of how long to get it. Ill definatly order it longer than i need, but when installing it (cutting it to length) should i make sure the handle is all the way forward, all the way back, or in the middle.
Picture this:
1.) I plan to first hook the rod to the control arm and line it up with the handle so one end is hooked to the plate setup in the rear of the boat, the other end will hook to the handle.
2.) I will position the handle where it needs to be (which is my question here) then cut it and thread it according.
Where do people get these control rods and do i just order them, cut them and thread them? Whats a normal size 1/2" ?? I need to be able to screw on the male or female ends, and most places (rex, eddies, cp) are all 1/2" 20 thread count.
Please help with all suggestions
Also the pedal hooks to the handle and i will need a swivel keep it the rod from the pedal to the handle from binding, the only place i seen swiveling ones was glenL marine. Where else can i get them

[Moneypitt]

The length of the rod is dictated by the travel of the override pedal. The actual conection to the t handle is a slide eye with a locking collar in front of it. This allows the pedal to "override" the handle and drop the plate further, while using the handle to keep the plate in the best "trim" position with the pedal at rest. The rod has to be threaded far enough, (about an inch) to allow adjustment at both ends. You will also have threads on the linkage rod to the pedal,(again, both ends) to allow you to position the pedal in the most comfortable position for "your" leg. Don't forget the springs, the springs are very important. Some use compression springs on the shaft, I would recomend the pull spring set up, and an "up" pedal as well. I'm sure there are others here that can post pics of their set ups, but the actual length you need will have to be figured for your boat. Be sure to leave enough length to get plenty of thread into the rod ends, you can always shorten the rod, but its hard to put it back on after you cut it! The bellcrank, or "arm" that attaches to the cav plate rod should be steel, not alumium, and carefully inspected in the area of the key that locks it to the rod. All this linkage has areas that are critical to the proper operation of the plate. The length of the turn buckles, the angle and length of the eyes from the rod to the turnbuckles are areas that will affect the travel of the pedal and the movement of the plate. I would recomend looking at a boat simular to yours before trying to "wing" it from scratch................MP

[GofastRacer]

To add to the above, the lenght also depends on your seating position. The thing to do is sit in the seat and position the pedal assembly to your comfort and mount it then go from there!..Here's mine a tipical setup!..
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/12Cav_Rod.jpg

[sifocalpoint]

That is a great pic, but notice how your handle is positioned all the way forward. When im cutting my rod that goes from the handle to the rear control arm by the transom
should i leave the control arm in its stationary position and place the handle all the way forward and cut from that distance
OR
Should i pull the handle all the way back and cut to that position
or
Should i leave the handle in the middle and cut to that position
The handle position will dictate how long my control rod is, correct. If the handles all the way forward the rod will be shorter
if the handle is all the back the rod will be longer
My question is where to leave the handle when cutting the rod.

[VD CRUISER]

My thinking is with the plate in its neutral posistion, the handle should be in the middle of its adjustment, so you can go up or down from there. You can fine tune it by adjusting the clevis ends on the end of the control rod and the turnbuckles if necessary. The slip joints, clevis ends and springs are available from Rex Marine. I have gotten the 1/2 SS rod from a local machine shop and they can cut and thread it also.
Arts picture shows you just what you need.

[GofastRacer]

That is a great pic, but notice how your handle is positioned all the way forward. When im cutting my rod that goes from the handle to the rear control arm by the transom
should i leave the control arm in its stationary position and place the handle all the way forward and cut from that distance
OR
Should i pull the handle all the way back and cut to that position
or
Should i leave the handle in the middle and cut to that position
The handle position will dictate how long my control rod is, correct. If the handles all the way forward the rod will be shorter
if the handle is all the back the rod will be longer
My question is where to leave the handle when cutting the rod.
You can put the handle where you want it. Notice that the handle is not against the stop, that's because my plates ride on the trailer and it's not good to have a bind while towing!. I have mine setup to where I have it 2 notches back, that is where the boat is at it's proper riding attitude and the plates will not go any higher!...