Stripping It, Looking for some advise, Please...

[Norseman]

Well after stopping at a couple of the local body shops, it looks like I will be doing the paint work on the Rayson Craft myself.
Local prices ranged from a low of $7,000 to $25,000. Be cheaper to buy another boat with good paint!!!!!!
So I guess I'm going to have to get a bunch of rattle cans or a couple of big nappy rollers! I think Billy B had posted in another thread that nappy rollers worked OK for the DYI paint guys. :( :(
Boy do I hateworking with fiberglass....... :( Just the thought makes me itch :frown:
I guessthe first question is what is the best way to strip this thing. The boat is a lovely shade of red :rolleyes:
The paint is chipping off on the bow and on the engine cover, paint looks to be pretty thick, I think it's the more is better technique to paint work. The paint is atleast 12 years old, that's how long the boat sat in the guys backyard I got if from, and he got it painted with no motor.
The original gel coat seems to be silver on the deck, looks like real large flake, something you would expect to see on a bass boat. I have no idea what condition the original gel is, but the areas that are chipped it looks pretty good, but real shiny, like maybe there was not too much prep work prior to paint. Now I figure the nappy roller approach might be a good one for filling in the chips, but I would rather do this right and strip the paint, fix whatever needs to be fixed and repaint it.
So what's the best way to get the paint off???
Paint remover, media blasting, lots of sandpaper OR??????????
Thanks for the help!!!!

[GofastRacer]

Get out the sand paper!..

[E.J.]

Hey norseman i agree with gofast sand sand sand :cry: ... Or you may try a little heat as in a hair dryer or heat gun. Heat up the paint and scrape off with a putty knife :smile:

[MudPumper]

There has been a lot of painting advice in the How To Section.

[kipperps28]

Be SOOOO carefuel if using a heat gun and knife! The paint comes off faster, but the glass can bubble, and if there is filler (bondo, etc) it will make a huge mess. I learned the hard way- use a longboard (soft one works good for radiuses) and fine sandpaper. Take your time early and you will not have to spend hundreds of hours fixing the gouges that you left when stripping.

[396_Z]

I've had the best luck at getting through the really heavy flake on mine by using a high speed sander and a fine paper.
Next advice is if you don't already have a compressor get the largest one you can afford. 10 years from now you'll thank yourself for that choice.

[infotraker]

Got my 78 Sanger Pickle redone last spring. It had a very heavy target over the base of orange. I had the target media blasted off down to the orange base for $500 then the base sanded. The results came out great.

[uclahater]

My Dad and I used a Razor Blade per the advise of Billy B. after the 3 weeks my Dad spent on it, and realizing we still had a ton of work left I realized how much my time was worth, and how much cheaper it was going to be to use Billy B.
So you can spend a lot of time, and still a lot of money for a rookie job, or you can save your time and pay a little more money for a professional job. :smile:
I chose option 2, and in my opinion it has saved me alot of headaches, and IM very happy with the results up to this point :smile:

[Schiada76]

Try a stripper first and get as much off as you can, hit the rest with 40 grit and a DA. Prime it with two part primer filler and sand sand sand. I just used PCL primer and it builds great. ;)

[Norseman]

Try a stripper first and get as much off as you can, hit the rest with 40 grit and a DA. Prime it with two part primer filler and sand sand sand. I just used PCL primer and it builds great. ;)
I remember back whan I was learning body work you were not supposed to use any chemical strippers on fiberglass, Vettes specifically. I'm sure that things have changed since I started banging metal though.
Last vette I had was in the early 70's, and after starting on it, I gave it to a buddy to finish that specailized in vette work. It was a 63 and had to have a new nose put on it, both fenders were spliced. I've done a bunch of glass fenders on rods over the years but never a complete car, unless you count a couple of glass T bodies.
I'll have to check on what chemical strippers are available. Two of the body shops I had look at the boat suggested media blasting, I had that done on steel cars, but never on fiberglass. Done right ot works really well, done wrong atleast on steel it makes a REAL MESS, that is almost impossible to fix!!!!

[Norseman]

My Dad and I used a Razor Blade per the advise of Billy B. after the 3 weeks my Dad spent on it, and realizing we still had a ton of work left I realized how much my time was worth, and how much cheaper it was going to be to use Billy B.
So you can spend a lot of time, and still a lot of money for a rookie job, or you can save your time and pay a little more money for a professional job. :smile:
I chose option 2, and in my opinion it has saved me alot of headaches, and IM very happy with the results up to this point :smile:
The prices I'm getting for having it done, are too high to even consider. So it's ethier do it myself or break it up for parts. It's too ugly to run as is, at least fo me.

[63stevens]

They do make a paint/varnish remover that is designed to work on fiberglass. I bought a gallon at Finishmaster. It worked quite well and saved alot of sanding. The name of it is Klean-Strip Fiberglass paint remover. It is made by W.M. Barr and Co. in Memphis TN 38101.

[Norseman]

Got my 78 Sanger Pickle redone last spring. It had a very heavy target over the base of orange. I had the target media blasted off down to the orange base for $500 then the base sanded. The results came out great.
No problems with the gel after it was blasted????
That looks like a pretty good way to go on this boat too. And it's well worth 500.00 to get even most of the paint off.

[Norseman]

They do make a paint/varnish remover that is designed to work on fiberglass. I bought a gallon at Finishmaster. It worked quite well and saved alot of sanding. The name of it is Klean-Strip Fiberglass paint remover. It is made by W.M. Barr and Co. in Memphis TN 38101.
Thanks I will check it out, I can do that in the driveway as time permits so that might work out pretty well.
How many times did you have to go over it, before you were down to gelcoat. Any pics?????

[Norseman]

Hey norseman i agree with gofast sand sand sand :cry: ... Or you may try a little heat as in a hair dryer or heat gun. Heat up the paint and scrape off with a putty knife :smile:
I didn't even think about heating up the paint. :idea:
But I can just picture my wifes house when we were dating. He father had burned all the paint off the front prior to a repaint, but rather than using a heat gun , he used a propane torch. It looked like the place had been in a MAJOR fire, for about 6 months. :(
Sometimes I think she started dating me to help get the front of the place painted. I spent about 4 weekends painting with her father. :supp: :supp:
Heat gun might wok though......

[Norseman]

Get out the sand paper!..
Art;
I was hoping for an easier method, but I guess it always comes back to sand paper! :hammerhea

[Norseman]

I chose option 2, and in my opinion it has saved me alot of headaches, and IM very happy with the results up to this point :smile:
If the boat was something special, I would consider getting it done, but it's just going to be a family ski boat, so it doesn't pay to put $7,000 - $10,000 maybe more in paint work.
I could buy a nice 21' Spectra for that kind of money, and if I add in the money for the engine and other stuff that needs to be done to the boat, I could get something REALLY nice..... :) :)
I know Throw another 1,000 at it! :eek:

[Norseman]

There has been a lot of painting advice in the How To Section.
Thanks;
I've been reading it, but didn't think this belonged in Billy B thread. I am hoping he posts to this one though. :rollside:

[Norseman]

Anyone ever use Interlux Marine paint on thier boat???
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/
It's supposed to work very well, and it can be applied with a roller.
Maybe not a nappy one, but a foam one. :supp:
Comments anyone?
They seem to have a good choice of basic colors, and even a couple of different paints depending......

[GofastRacer]

Art;
I was hoping for an easier method, but I guess it always comes back to sand paper! :hammerhea
Yep, no way of getting around it!.. :D

[uclahater]

The prices I'm getting for having it done, are too high to even consider. So it's ethier do it myself or break it up for parts. It's too ugly to run as is, at least fo me.
As Mudpumper said, in the How to forum Billy B has put an area where hes helping people out with paint questions I would move this to there. Have you gotten a quote from Billy yet Im seen him do some less complicated work for very reasonable prices :idea:
Good luck either way :D

[Spotondl]

1. Hire a cheap Puerto Rican day laborer to SAND and SAND some more...
1a. Spend the cash you would spend on destructive stipper for a good Dual Action (DA) sander....
2. Give the laborer the right materials and supervise the crap outta the laborer...
3. Follow BradP's advise re 2 part primer...
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2....
5. Shoot primer sealer...
6. Repeat steps 1 & 2...
7. Shoot base color...
8. Repeat steps 1 & 2...
9. Shoot final base color...
10. Shoot color trim...
11. Repeat steps 1 & 2...
12. Color sand with 1500...
13. Polish...

[Norseman]

1. Hire a cheap Puerto Rican day laborer to SAND and SAND some more...
1a. Spend the cash you would spend on destructive stipper for a good Dual Action (DA) sander....
2. Give the laborer the right materials and supervise the crap outta the laborer...
3. Follow BradP's advise re 2 part primer...
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2....
5. Shoot primer sealer...
6. Repeat steps 1 & 2...
7. Shoot base color...
8. Repeat steps 1 & 2...
9. Shoot final base color...
10. Shoot color trim...
11. Repeat steps 1 & 2...
12. Color sand with 1500...
13. Polish...
I thought I could get my son into sanding, but apparently it's not something he and his buddy want to do! :yuk:
Wish I could remember what worked for Tom Sawyer! :smile:

[GofastRacer]

I thought I could get my son into sanding, but apparently it's not something he and his buddy want to do! :yuk:
Wish I could remember what worked for Tom Sawyer! :smile:
It's called "you want a roof over your head MOFO" start sanding!.. :D

[Norseman]

It's called "you want a roof over your head MOFO" start sanding!.. :D
I thought about that, but figured that if I did, he'd go complain to his mother. :hammer2:
I'm not getting enough now, and I hate sleeping on the couch!!! :supp:

[Spotondl]

I thought about that, but figured that if I did, he'd go complain to his mother. :hammer2:
I'm not getting enough now, and I hate sleeping on the couch!!! :supp:
You could hire a HOT Puerto Rican woman to do your wet sanding for you... Basic t-shirt & shorts uniform required... I hear it is cold in them there parts so I would suggest that you ask to SEE her "qualifications" prior to hire...
Then maybe your son will show an interest....

[uclahater]

I thought about that, but figured that if I did, he'd go complain to his mother. :hammer2:
I'm not getting enough now, and I hate sleeping on the couch!!! :supp:
Maybe you should just ask for your balls back, and keep them this time :idea: :idea: :idea: :boxingguy

[Norseman]

Maybe you should just ask for your balls back, and keep them this time :idea: :idea: :idea: :boxingguy
I always keep the balls after, but I like having her hold them !!!! :devil: :devil:

[Norseman]

You could hire a HOT Puerto Rican woman to do your wet sanding for you... Basic t-shirt & shorts uniform required... I hear it is cold in them there parts so I would suggest that you ask to SEE her "qualifications" prior to hire...
Then maybe your son will show an interest....
Spotondl;
Now that sounds like a really good idea!! :devil:
I even have a couple of applicants in mind...... :rollside: :rollside:
I always make sure any help I hire is equipped for the job at hand!! :devil: :devil:
At 10 Ryan's not too interested in Hot / WET woman. I'm sure it will be a different situation in a couple of years. :)

[popatop]

As a painter for 25 years ,striping takes off all her coats.First wash the boat clean,keep it out off the sun.Wearing rubber gloves aply a aircraft stripper purechased at a paint store! Lay some plasitic over the striper to seal in the chemials and slow down drying time. After the paint is coming off check the paint with a plastic scraper not to damage the body.When the paint is very soft all most watery start with a stiff brush,scrubing(watch your eyes,it burns),get the garden hose and wash off the paint. DO NOT GET ANY STRIPER ON NOTHING YOU DONT WANT TO STRIP!!!!!!! The key is a lot of chemial and thick.Then wipe the boat doun with Lacquer thiner clean off rest off the paint.

[Norseman]

As a painter for 25 years ,striping takes off all her coats.First wash the boat clean,keep it out off the sun.Wearing rubber gloves aply a aircraft stripper purechased at a paint store! Lay some plasitic over the striper to seal in the chemials and slow down drying time. After the paint is coming off check the paint with a plastic scraper not to damage the body.When the paint is very soft all most watery start with a stiff brush,scrubing(watch your eyes,it burns),get the garden hose and wash off the paint. DO NOT GET ANY STRIPER ON NOTHING YOU DONT WANT TO STRIP!!!!!!! The key is a lot of chemial and thick.Then wipe the boat doun with Lacquer thiner clean off rest off the paint.
Thanks for the feedback!!
It looks like I'm going to have to wait for warmer weather to do this. It's a little to chilly outside here in nY right now. The deal to borrow a shop this winter for a couple of weeks loks like it won't happen till spring. :cry:
But It will get done before the weather turns nice enough to get the boat wet.
Right now it's sitting in the driveway under a tarp. Tomorrow morning is supposed to bring lots of sleat and frezzing rain. :yuk: :yuk:
Bob