Cav plate info...

[steelcomp]

I'm getting ready to start buying material for my cav plate set up, and am wondering what the consensus is about material and thickness. Also, how do I determin cav plate length? Are there good or bad turn buckles and pads? Those I might just make anyway. Any other input on cav hardware would be appreciated.
For my 19' Spectra
thanks
steel

[MAXIMUS]

I'm getting ready to start buying material for my cav plate set up, and am wondering what the consensus is about material and thickness. Also, how do I determin cav plate length? Are there good or bad turn buckles and pads? Those I might just make anyway. Any other input on cav hardware would be appreciated.
For my 19' Spectra
thanks
steel
I just picked up my plate material yesterday... I am using 1/4" 6061 & had the metal supplier cut them on his saw! Saves me alot of time trying to do that part at home. Talk to Mike at rex re: feet & buckles etc... He has everything you need! I also was turned on to a guy named Ron Grose up north! Guru refered me to him & he is a real cool guy to talk to! He makes a lot of custom shiat! My particular plates are about 11" in width & appox 37" in lenth each with 6 buckles on each plate! Good luck! :hammerhea

[schiada96]

If you want to do it once make the parts from stainless. Aluminum is light and easy to work with but the best protection you can get with anodise will fade and fail after time. Stainless is expensive right now.
I can't tell you how big to make them but I'm sure someone on the boards can.

[GofastRacer]

Mine are also 1/4" 6061 with 6 turnbuckles on each plate but mine stick out 10" from the transom!. Every boat is different so it's hard to determine what will work, the thing to do is look at other Spectras that are setup like yours and see what they have and go from there. BTW, if you're going to run it hard, don't skimp on the turnbuckles!

[GofastRacer]

These are the turnbuckles on my Rayson they are heavy duty, no worry about breaking them running in the shit at 110!..
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/505/12Turnbuckles.jpg

[MAXIMUS]

These are the turnbuckles on my Rayson they are heavy duty, no worry about breaking them running in the shit at 110!..
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/505/12Turnbuckles.jpg
:crossx: :crossx: :)

[SPECTRABRENT]

Steelcomp,
Since you are going to convert your jet to the v-drive, keep in mind that
most jets are not built like the v-drives (layed up heavier & more bulkheads).
Also, you will probably have to go with a hinge for the cav. plate instead of the plates being resesed into the hull.
Brent

[058]

If you want to do it once make the parts from stainless. Aluminum is light and easy to work with but the best protection you can get with anodise will fade and fail after time. Stainless is expensive right now.
I can't tell you how big to make them but I'm sure someone on the boards can.What thickness S.S. would you recommend?

[Rexone]

I'd go with 3/16 on SS. 1/4 isn't necessary and too hard to bend. 1/4 is good for alum though. My .01. :smile:

[wsuwrhr]

The direction of the grain is very important.
You need the grain running the length of the boat, front and rear, not side to side.
As mentioned already, the plates need to be sawed, not sheared.
Brian

[bigkatboat]

"On a fast boat (80+ mph) the hinge is the quickest route to the graveyard!" The plates must 'bent' and 'curve' the water, not churn it up. Just remember! You are trying to TRIM the boat not correct it's problems. Rig the boat correctly, then TRIM with the plates.

[steelcomp]

Steelcomp,
Since you are going to convert your jet to the v-drive, keep in mind that
most jets are not built like the v-drives (layed up heavier & more bulkheads).
Also, you will probably have to go with a hinge for the cav. plate instead of the plates being resesed into the hull.
Brent
Brent...boat already has cav plate reliefs in bottom of hull.
What bulkheads are you talking about? There's one under the dash...only one as far as I know.
I will say this..the freekin fuel tanks go from the transom to right beside the driver/ passanger seats. Aluminum boxed tanks that seem to be "glued" in...no straps. These things have got to carry 25 gal's a piece!
I'd like to use stainless. Is there a preferred alloy?
Why not shear aluminum (or sst) cav plates?
Thanks for the input.
steel

[schiada96]

Brent...boat already has cav plate reliefs in bottom of hull.
What bulkheads are you talking about? There's one under the dash...only one as far as I know.
I will say this..the freekin fuel tanks go from the transom to right beside the driver/ passanger seats. Aluminum boxed tanks that seem to be "glued" in...no straps. These things have got to carry 25 gal's a piece!
I'd like to use stainless. Is there a preferred alloy?
Why not shear aluminum (or sst) cav plates?
Thanks for the input.
steel
304 with a 4b finish its alot easier to polish than 2b. Rex says 3/16 and thats right.
Some say not to shear aluminum, but with the proper blade rake and drop blade clearance it won't impart any edge stress. I laser cut the stuff.

[Moneypitt]

Steelcomp, I am not an expert on this subject, in fact I know very little about what you're doing, but, I do know that the dimentions and location of the entire installation is CRITICAL. As someone said, rig it right and trim it with the plate.......BUT what is right?? The plate length must be in tune with where the motor and v drive are located, as well as the angle of the v drive and strut. I would strongly recomemnd researching these critical areas prior to doing anything. We read here all the time about illhandling boats, owners trying everything to make a boat do things that it wasn't designed to do. Well, you're in the design stage, so get it right while you have the chance. Ask others for engine location from the transom, v drive location and angle, strut location, and of course the plate information. And ask them how their set up works!! All these areas are critical to the way the boat works, or doesn't work..........MP

[steelcomp]

Steelcomp, I am not an expert on this subject, in fact I know very little about what you're doing, but, I do know that the dimentions and location of the entire installation is CRITICAL. As someone said, rig it right and trim it with the plate.......BUT what is right?? The plate length must be in tune with where the motor and v drive are located, as well as the angle of the v drive and strut. I would strongly recomemnd researching these critical areas prior to doing anything. We read here all the time about illhandling boats, owners trying everything to make a boat do things that it wasn't designed to do. Well, you're in the design stage, so get it right while you have the chance. Ask others for engine location from the transom, v drive location and angle, strut location, and of course the plate information. And ask them how their set up works!! All these areas are critical to the way the boat works, or doesn't work..........MP
Thanks, MP...that's precisely what I'm doing!! :D

[steelcomp]

304 with a 4b finish its alot easier to polish than 2b. Rex says 3/16 and thats right.
Some say not to shear aluminum, but with the proper blade rake and drop blade clearance it won't impart any edge stress. I laser cut the stuff.
Thanks for the input. :cool:

[GofastRacer]

I've always had my plates sheared and never a problem, in fact there's an SS running out there that has plates that I made back in 86 and they are still like the day I made them, well the anno is a tad faded but that's it!..

[steelcomp]

Still looking for info on length of cav plate. Anyone seen Dave Sammons?
Thanks in advance.

[steelcomp]

Has anyone seen these used on cav plate hardware? Is it a good piece or bad piece? It's an old Nicson piece...from the 60's... in my buddy's spare parts box for his Mandella marathon boat. Heavy duty piece I'm thinking. He has a complete set of them...never used, still in the plastic wrappers. They're solid stainless. Very heavy, but look strong.
Thanks
steel
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7933&stc=1

[Squirtin Thunder]

How big are the holes for the screws ??

[Squirtin Thunder]

Has anyone seen these used on cav plate hardware? Is it a good piece or bad piece? It's an old Nicson piece...from the 60's... in my buddy's spare parts box for his Mandella marathon boat. Heavy duty piece I'm thinking. He has a complete set of them...never used, still in the plastic wrappers. They're solid stainless. Very heavy, but look strong.
Thanks
steel
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7933&stc=1
I looks very nice and for the right price I think it would be more than strong enough.
Jim

[Squirtin Thunder]

Does he have the plate side too ??

[VD CRUISER]

Is there any angle cut on that pad to match up with the angle of the bottom of the boat ? They may have been made for more of a flat bottom.

[steelcomp]

Does he have the plate side too ??
??That is the plate side, unless I'm missing something here.
Cruiser, the Mandella is a semi V, and I'm not even sure these were for that boat. I see what you're saying about the angle...that was one of my concerns. There would be a compound thing going on here that wouldn't work. That answers my question. Looks like I'm going to have to come up with my own. It's clear I'm going to have to go look at some boats and see what's going on. Just not many very close to where I am. Any one with pics of their v bottom cav plate set ups would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[Squirtin Thunder]

Scott,
Those sure look like the boat side to me but again I could be wrong.
The one for the plate should only have one 5/16" screw !!!! There is no difference from what you have on your tunnel plates to what is on a V except the angle. And those sure look like they are designed for the transom.
Jim

[Squirtin Thunder]

That sure looks like what is called a pillow block and you will need the plate pads.
Jim

[Squirtin Thunder]

I am wrong sorry The pillow block holds the shaft and then you put the eye levers on. Sorry do they have any angle in them???
Jim

[steelcomp]

Scott,
Those sure look like the boat side to me but again I could be wrong.
The one for the plate should only have one 5/16" screw !!!! There is no difference from what you have on your tunnel plates to what is on a V except the angle. And those sure look like they are designed for the transom.
Jim
I guess if you have a fixed plate like on the jet tunnels, yes, you could use this on the transom. I'm going to have a controllable cav, and these have no use on the transom. Drag boats can use the ones with the one 5/16 bolt in the center...no where near as strong. Circle boats need something a LOT beefier, a-la the four bolts. They're bolted on with #10 stainless F/H screws, and sheet metal lock nuts. I've seen circle boats use the one with the single bolt, but it's also drilled and thru bolted through the cav with two bolts, one on each side of the pad. On top of that, they're usually mounted on a second reinforcing strip of metal that runs the width of the cav and doubles the thickness right where they mount near the trailing edge.

[Morg]

Something like this
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/516/545Picture_014.jpg
:D :D :D
Morg

[steelcomp]

sorta exactly like that. Nice. You can get away with the 7/16 turn buckles as short as they are...I'm thinkin I'll have to go with the 1/2". I may use male connectors and make a solid alum. adjuster, though. Just an idea.

[steelcomp]

Got any pics of the rigging inside?
Thanks

[Mohavekid]

Here's a pretty good pic of a Spectra 19 with cav plates.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/1177SkiRaceJet-med.jpg
This boat is for sale, here's a link. http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/2/6/76754526.htm
Sounds like a pretty good deal to me.

[Morg]

Got any pics of the rigging inside?
Thanks
The inside cav plate rod is not installed yet. I'll post some when its in.

[steelcomp]

The inside cav plate rod is not installed yet. I'll post some when its in.
Thanks Morg...how about the steering and such?
I'm also wondering about things like the length of the levers on the transom rod...that can have a big effect on how the plate works. It seems like I see a lot of different set ups. Your plate looks fairly short...difference from a flat, I suppose. I also see that on the V's, the shorter links at the outside of the plate are on much more of an angle, which would mean less vertical movement, and therefore less plate movement. Is this just an accepted condition, or is less plate movement at the outside actually desired? I can see that by working with the geometry, you could actually alter the shape of the plate as you move it.
Am I looking too close at all this?

[Morg]

If you talk to ten guy's who built these deals, you will get different awnsers to your questions.
I would try to find a boat similar to what you are trying to do & try to figure out why they did what they did & how it works.
I have never driven my boat much less worked on the setup. All I know is it used to work good. With that, I set it all back the way it was. I am very fortunate to be able to have a deal that was race tested & proved to work.
Keep doing what you are doing, asking the questions & working the bourds.
BTW- I can get you some picks of my stearing deal, But would highly recomend againg getting info from a boat like what you are doing.
Good luck

[V-DRIVE VIDEO]

Looks Good Morg! As Kim Hanson would say, that looks......(.)(.)'s.........! :D Nice turnbuckle angle or should I say lack of... Make sure you have an inch and a half of down measured from the back of the plate. As high as we set these things you'll need all of it.
Jerry :cool:

[steelcomp]

If you talk to ten guy's who built these deals, you will get different awnsers to your questions.
I would try to find a boat similar to what you are trying to do & try to figure out why they did what they did & how it works.
I have never driven my boat much less worked on the setup. All I know is it used to work good. With that, I set it all back the way it was. I am very fortunate to be able to have a deal that was race tested & proved to work.
Keep doing what you are doing, asking the questions & working the bourds.
BTW- I can get you some picks of my stearing deal, But would highly recomend againg getting info from a boat like what you are doing.
Good luck
Thanks Morg...just gathering as much info as possible. I like to look at nice installations just for ideas, not necessarily "how to". I look at every little detail, since that's what can make all the difference. :D

[Tahiti350]

Okay, here comes the ignorant new kid again.
Wondering if a set up like this would help my Tahiti I/O. I have looked at trim tabs to help stabilize it at top end and plane it out earlier, but what do I really need at 65-70 mph?
GaryB> Tahiti350

[Rexone]

Okay, here comes the ignorant new kid again.
Wondering if a set up like this would help my Tahiti I/O. I have looked at trim tabs to help stabilize it at top end and plane it out earlier, but what do I really need at 65-70 mph?
GaryB> Tahiti350
Gary at that speed I would recommend the Bennett or TrimMaster Sport Tabs. They will accomplish what you're looking for at a fraction of the cost of the high end cav plate assys pictured above. If you want the bling factor you might consider the Dana billet trim tabs which also operate hydraulically. The mechanical setups pictured above are all custom built (high $) and normally only used on vdrive or high end, high speed I/O type boats.

[Thunderbutt]

20 foot Spectrahttp://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/586P2070040-med.JPG

[Carnivalride]

http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8003&stc=1 Another example.

[steelcomp]

Thank you thank you thank you!!! :smile: :cool:

[Morg]

Looks Good Morg! As Kim Hanson would say, that looks......(.)(.)'s.........! :D Nice turnbuckle angle or should I say lack of... Make sure you have an inch and a half of down measured from the back of the plate. As high as we set these things you'll need all of it.
Jerry :cool:
Hey buddy,
Thanks for the props. I have not gotten the inside stuff done yet, but when it is I will definatly check out the travel. From Tony's post it sounds like you guys found that helped the K-5. Sounds like it was a good time in Phx & Needles.
Morg

[Dave Sammons]

Here's a couple shots of Spectra Brent's 24. It's just roughed in at this point. 3/16ths stainless by 10 inches off the transom with stainless hinges. It'll have 12 turnbuckles, 6 in the middle and then spaced out.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1517spectra_3.jpg http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1517spectra_1.jpg
P.S....Anybody got a line on where I can round up a set of "Pivot Ball" style turnbuckle pads? Because of the radical angle on the transom of this boat, I think they would be a great choice if I could find'em.

[Dave Sammons]

Here's a couple for the flatbottom guys. This is the B-boat I'm building. Plates are a 1/4" X 11" off the transom. Idea is to use the the extra long pillow blocks(lotsa machining left to to on them and the backing plate!) to maximize the turnbuckle geometery for quickness and strength.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1517trns1.jpg http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1517trns2.jpg

[SPECTRABRENT]

Nice work!
Brent

[steelcomp]

Dave!!! Glad you're back.
How do I figure out how far off the transom to make my plates? Am I correct in thinking that the more vertical the turn buckles the better? I know they change on the deeper V's, is that the idea? What about the length of the levers? I know that the longret they are the quicker the plate movement? Is this desireable on a 19' v bottom? Can they get TOO quick? I know you can shorten or lengthen the arm, as well, but I don't want to start re inventing the wheel here.
Any help would be appreciated
steel

[Dave Sammons]

Dave!!! Glad you're back.
How do I figure out how far off the transom to make my plates? Am I correct in thinking that the more vertical the turn buckles the better? I know they change on the deeper V's, is that the idea? What about the length of the levers? I know that the longret they are the quicker the plate movement? Is this desireable on a 19' v bottom? Can they get TOO quick? I know you can shorten or lengthen the arm, as well, but I don't want to start re inventing the wheel here.
Any help would be appreciated
steel
The set up on that 21' Schiada a few replies back is just about perfect for your boat. The plates look to be 13" to 15"??? Try to get the turnbuckles as vertical as possible. I don't like to go much longer than 1 3/4" on the turnbuckle eyebolts, any longer in a rough water situation and you'll be looking at some breakage. Run the standard 5 1/4" center to center Transom Bar Arm and you'll be fine. I usually use the one that Rex stocks. Having been in more DICEY situations than I care to count, I don't think a cavitation plate can ever be TOO QUICK :D :D :D

[steelcomp]

The set up on that 21' Schiada a few replies back is just about perfect for your boat. The plates look to be 13" to 15"??? Try to get the turnbuckles as vertical as possible. I don't like to go much longer than 1 3/4" on the turnbuckle eyebolts, any longer in a rough water situation and you'll be looking at some breakage. Run the standard 5 1/4" center to center Transom Bar Arm and you'll be fine. I usually use the one that Rex stocks. Having been in more DICEY situations than I care to count, I don't think a cavitation plate can ever be TOO QUICK :D :D :D
Thanks Dave. I'll start with 15", and if it proves to be too long, I can fix that. Better than being too short.
Really appreciate your input.
steel

[19.6 schiada]

steelcomp 2 years ago i reriged our 19.6 schiada and went from a 8 in plate from the transom to a 12 in lot more boat in the water now i think you would want to stay under 12 in . also spent a lot of years ski racing behind one of the best handling 19 ft spectras and sure plates were under 12 in long

[Rexone]

http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7993&stc=1
The plates on this boat are 9.5" off the transom at the outside tapering to 11" in the center. This is typical of what I've seen over the years on Schiadas. Different hulls have different requirements.
Also most Schiadas use short control arms, mine are 1" flat to center of hole. Schiadas typically don't require alot of plate to make a difference. Some other hulls don't share this characteristic.
Too long on the plates is not a good thing. You can end up with too much travel being counterproductive. Also changing them later is a big pain in the ass because the tb pads should be towards the outer edge of the plate. Changing plate length will also change pillow block geometry and / or turnbuckle length causing alot of hardware changes or mods, not just the plate length.
Measure twice, cut once would be my motto here. Take the time to find someone intimately familiar with your particular hull that knows what works best. Research time now will save you grief in the long run in fighting something that doesn't work right. You might give Mike King a call over at Prime, he's setup alot of different plates over the years on vbottoms and possibly could give you some insight on your hull and what plate length would be best.
That would be my approach at least.

[steelcomp]

http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7993&stc=1
The plates on this boat are 9.5" off the transom at the outside tapering to 11" in the center. This is typical of what I've seen over the years on Schiadas. Different hulls have different requirements.
Also most Schiadas use short control arms, mine are 1" flat to center of hole. Schiadas typically don't require alot of plate to make a difference. Some other hulls don't share this characteristic.
Too long on the plates is not a good thing. You can end up with too much travel being counterproductive. Also changing them later is a big pain in the ass because the tb pads should be towards the outer edge of the plate. Changing plate length will also change pillow block geometry and / or turnbuckle length causing alot of hardware changes or mods, not just the plate length.
Measure twice, cut once would be my motto here. Take the time to find someone intimately familiar with your particular hull that knows what works best. Research time now will save you grief in the long run in fighting something that doesn't work right. You might give Mike King a call over at Prime, he's setup alot of different plates over the years on vbottoms and possibly could give you some insight on your hull and what plate length would be best.
That would be my approach at least.
Thanks...that's good advice.
steel

[steelcomp]

steelcomp 2 years ago i reriged our 19.6 schiada and went from a 8 in plate from the transom to a 12 in lot more boat in the water now i think you would want to stay under 12 in . also spent a lot of years ski racing behind one of the best handling 19 ft spectras and sure plates were under 12 in long
Was that this one?? This is Granatelli's old boat...I was in touch with the owner when I first bought my Spectra, but have lost contact with him. Kinda hard to get dimensions from a photo, though it dose give me some ideas.
Any way to get pics of the one you were behind? How 'bout a contact?
Thanks
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8045&stc=1

[GofastRacer]

Well shit I'm late on this one but here's the way mine was before I took it all apart, but I will be using it all just will look better, the plates are 10" beyond the transom... Something to remember, the plates are an extention of the bottom and changing plate lenght is like moving the strut back and forth and can make a difference in the handling!..Wouldn't hurt to find out what lenght worked on that particular boat!..
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/215_Transom1.jpg

[steelcomp]

Well shit I'm late on this one but here's the way mine was before I took it all apart, but I will be using it all just will look better, the plates are 10" beyond the transom... Something to remember, the plates are an extention of the bottom and changing plate lenght is like moving the strut back and forth and can make a difference in the handling!..Wouldn't hurt to find out what lenght worked on that particular boat!..
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/215_Transom1.jpg
Thanks Go Fast. Good pic...I see good stuff there. That line I see on the left cav...is that another seperation? Do you have four plates instead of two??

[19.6 schiada]

steelcomp check your pm

[GofastRacer]

Thanks Go Fast. Good pic...I see good stuff there. That line I see on the left cav...is that another seperation? Do you have four plates instead of two??
Just two plates, the cut goes to the transom only, makes for more adjustment and easier for the 1/4" material to bend!..

[19.6 schiada]

steelcomp good to talk to you on the phone the web site i told you about is http://www.nwsra.net/ look in the classifieds also will try to post photos of our set ups

[steelcomp]

steelcomp good to talk to you on the phone the web site i told you about is http://www.nwsra.net/ look in the classifieds also will try to post photos of our set ups
Got it. Thanks for the lead. Good talking to you as well...thanks again for your time. Look forward to pics.

[19.6 schiada]

4 pics of boat are in image center tried to post here dont know what i did wrong read rex ones post on how to still didnt work :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Rexone]

4 pics of boat are in image center tried to post here dont know what i did wrong read rex ones post on how to still didnt work :confused: :confused: :confused:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/524/21572004-11-14_small_001.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/524/21572004-11-14_small_002.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/524/21572004-11-14_small_003.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/21572004-11-14_small_004.jpg
:smile:

[83nordic]

I have been following this thread for a while and wanted to chime in. I am getting ready to reassemble my 83' 22ft Nordic. I currently have plates that are 8.5 inches outside to 9.5 inches in the center. The plates have a space in the middle of about seven inches and I see lots of boats like Rex's with plates running all the way to the keel line. My boat has a rounded keel which would make full plates difficult but... what are the advantages/disadvantages. I am repowering this boat with a twin turbo motor which will peak at around 1100 hp. My previous motor was about 650 hp and ran to about 75mph. The boat handled great and was very responsive to plate adjustments with the set-up as described however I am concerned about the anticipated increase in speed with the new motor and would rather make changes now if needed as the boat is completely dissassembled. Also I believe plate dimensions may be misleading unless taken from the aft most screws attaching the plate which indicates the point at which the plates will flex does this make sense to anyone? I would appreciate any input.
Thanks

[superdave013]

Just two plates, the cut goes to the transom only, makes for more adjustment and easier for the 1/4" material to bend!..
Sneed told me they did that because the 20's have a slight concave (gull wing) in the bottom. I guess the plates don't like to bend in 2 directions.

[GofastRacer]

Sneed told me they did that because the 20's have a slight concave (gull wing) in the bottom. I guess the plates don't like to bend in 2 directions.
That's right, mine has a 1/4" gull that would make for a compund bend. Some must not have it because you don't usually see a split plate!.. :confused:

[19.6 schiada]

rexone thank you very much for getting the pics over here i could not get the url address to copy the motor and reriging were done by gt performace about 2.5 years ago still need to do redo seats 83 nordic i see your point about the plate measurement but most people use the transum re your question about putting on longer plates with our boat the longer plate (went from 8 in to almost 12 in ) made the boat ride more in the water at least it feels like it dont have befor & after pics with the longer plates the boat has very little bow rise on take off & gets on plane very fast also read what rexone said about what it dose to strut angle & prop postion related to rear of boat bottom you said your boat worked great you might want to try to find some one that has already done one w/longer plates with the added power of your new motor and maybe gear and or prop change longer plates w/out strut repostioning could give you unwanted transom walk ???? I could be wrong on this but it is something to think about

[steelcomp]

Sneed told me they did that because the 20's have a slight concave (gull wing) in the bottom. I guess the plates don't like to bend in 2 directions.
It must be a very SLIGHT concave, otherwise the two corners of the plate at that secondary split would bind when being pushed down.

[83nordic]

19.6 thanks for the input, This boat had some kind of boosted power before but I dont know what, I put a 650hp +/- motor in when i bought it with 4% gears and it rode beautifully at all speeds and max of 75. I think I will be seeing the high eighties with the new power and have been in other boats that had drastic ( read scary ) changes with what would seem to be insigificant increases in speed say 10 mph. That has me concerned. I will not be changing the strut location or angle as it would be a huge undertaking and the current rigging is very well done, drop thru struts and fins with supports to stringers and rail system. I have no idea who rigged the boat originally but they did a nice job. I have not seen another boat with v-drive power like it and Nordic said they did not rig it. I am hoping someone here has or knows someone with a 22 Nordic that might have some insight. I have only seen one other "big" Nordic v-drive but it was a completely different animal. My friend has a Schiada like yours not as nice but what a fun ride. Thanks again
John

[GofastRacer]

It must be a very SLIGHT concave, otherwise the two corners of the plate at that secondary split would bind when being pushed down.
If you put a straight edge from the center to the chine , it is a 1/4" gull!..

[steelcomp]

If you put a straight edge from the center to the chine , it is a 1/4" gull!..
How on EARTH do you get the plate to bend with that???? :confused:

[GofastRacer]

How on EARTH do you get the plate to bend with that???? :confused:
Actually it bends pretty easy. Here is the exact same boat as mine and it don't even have a split plate!..
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/12Rayson.jpg

[steelcomp]

Actually it bends pretty easy. Here is the exact same boat as mine and it don't even have a split plate!..
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/12Rayson.jpg
Sho' 'nuff!!! :cool: