Wet Dream
04-24-2002, 04:44 PM
Due to popular demand, I'll do my best to show you guys how my frames were done and dimensions. These are going into a 19' Hallett, open engine compartment. http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/Mvc-013s.JPG
I used 5/8" plywood for the frames and 2"x2" boards for the backing blocks (arrows). Basically the dimensions are:
Back plate 15" high at the rear and 16 1/2" where the barrel meets the back, and tapered down and rounded. The length is 60" and the bottom plate is 23" for the front seat and behind the barrel is 20". This is just long enough to secure the seats over the stringers. The back plate bolts onto the gunnels. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE BOLTS IN PLACE BEFORE THEY GET COVERED! You will have a hell of a time getting the seats to bolt on the hull without. For the stringer bolting, just use angled metel, aluminum or stainless about about 4" wide, where your seat will rest, look for the little tabs where the stringers are. These will secure the bottom and these holes can be drilled at any time, as long as you don't place them under your barrels. http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/tn_Mvc-028s.JPG
To get the actual barrels to bend, I used 2 sheets of 1/4 luan and cut the basic size and placed them in the tub with warm water. After about 30 minutes, they are semi flexible. The frames should be done before doing this part because you will need the frame supports, the uprights and the perpendicular ones, in front of and behind the barrels to hold the bend. After the first sheet was laid in and screwed to the supports, I smeared the crap out the glue onto the next piece and bent that in place. Clamps and wide-head screws were used to keep the luan together while drying. I actually left the screws in but sheared off the excess shaft.
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/seatpaint.JPG
After the frames are completed, I debated on using resin to coat everything, but stapling the vinyl to the frames could have been a little difficult, so I opted for a serious water sealer. I know, but I'll do everything I can to keep any excess water off the frames. The cushion backing is nothing more than plywood, cut to fit, but a little shorter to allow for padding and vinyl.
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/Mvc-014s.JPG
And then you have the final result. These seats are the last thing to go into the boat, so I don't have a pic if it yet, but in a week or two, I"ll have it.
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/Mvc-098s.JPG
[This message has been edited by Wet Dream (edited April 24, 2002).]
I used 5/8" plywood for the frames and 2"x2" boards for the backing blocks (arrows). Basically the dimensions are:
Back plate 15" high at the rear and 16 1/2" where the barrel meets the back, and tapered down and rounded. The length is 60" and the bottom plate is 23" for the front seat and behind the barrel is 20". This is just long enough to secure the seats over the stringers. The back plate bolts onto the gunnels. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE BOLTS IN PLACE BEFORE THEY GET COVERED! You will have a hell of a time getting the seats to bolt on the hull without. For the stringer bolting, just use angled metel, aluminum or stainless about about 4" wide, where your seat will rest, look for the little tabs where the stringers are. These will secure the bottom and these holes can be drilled at any time, as long as you don't place them under your barrels. http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/tn_Mvc-028s.JPG
To get the actual barrels to bend, I used 2 sheets of 1/4 luan and cut the basic size and placed them in the tub with warm water. After about 30 minutes, they are semi flexible. The frames should be done before doing this part because you will need the frame supports, the uprights and the perpendicular ones, in front of and behind the barrels to hold the bend. After the first sheet was laid in and screwed to the supports, I smeared the crap out the glue onto the next piece and bent that in place. Clamps and wide-head screws were used to keep the luan together while drying. I actually left the screws in but sheared off the excess shaft.
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/seatpaint.JPG
After the frames are completed, I debated on using resin to coat everything, but stapling the vinyl to the frames could have been a little difficult, so I opted for a serious water sealer. I know, but I'll do everything I can to keep any excess water off the frames. The cushion backing is nothing more than plywood, cut to fit, but a little shorter to allow for padding and vinyl.
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/Mvc-014s.JPG
And then you have the final result. These seats are the last thing to go into the boat, so I don't have a pic if it yet, but in a week or two, I"ll have it.
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Motors_and_Drives/Mvc-098s.JPG
[This message has been edited by Wet Dream (edited April 24, 2002).]