Bypass Fuel System Versions 3.0 & 4.0

[Infomaniac]

Some cool fittings arrived from Sweet Performance Products (http://www.sweetperformance.com/index.htm) to help clean up the fuel log version. 3.0
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211bypass4.jpg
I'm thinkin I like this one better. version 4.0 Two pretty fancy "T"'s coupled together with plenty of flow. Will have to use your imagination to fill in the gap at the top. What will look better tubing or hose?
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211bypass5.jpg
I do have a 5.0 but I did not care for it.

[Sleek-Jet]

Are you going to be able to secure that in anyway?? Seems like all the vibration would cause the hard lines to crack since everything is hanging off them.
I'd definately go with the polished hard line between the 2 "T" fittings.

[Infomaniac]

Well if that was an airplane it would have plenty of clamps. :idea:
The tubing is 304 stainless .035 wall. It is overbuilt as is.
Most everyone else hangs a stainless log from them with no problems.
to answer your queston: NO
I am thinking stainless tube between the "T"'s also but everything being hand bent. It might require flex hose for slight misalignment.

[superdave013]

lol, I just got a box of B nuts and tube sleaves in today. But hose and hose ends cost more. So go with hose! lol
I think the hard line would go with the rest of the schem pretty well. I would flare another one then bend a 180 to get rid of the other hose too. Clamp the two hard lines together and it would be nice and sano.

[Infomaniac]

Thanks SD.
I have a 1/2 tube bent 180 already. It takes a HUGE radius on a 1/2 tube and still be able to put it in the power flare machine. Changes the looks quite a bit.

[Sleek-Jet]

I am thinking stainless tube between the "T"'s also but everything being hand bent. It might require flex hose for slight misalignment.
Just force it. :D

[GofastRacer]

I would go with the hose myself, but that's just me!..

[Fiat48]

I would go with the hose myself, but that's just me!..
You'd have an injector on it. You're not fooling me! :D
But I say hose too.

[GofastRacer]

You'd have an injector on it.
You're absolutely right!.. ;) :D

[PC Rat]

What's the deal with the fancy "T's" in version 4.0? Are they just bigger?
Brian

[Infomaniac]

What's the deal with the fancy "T's" in version 4.0? Are they just bigger?
Brian
The "T" at the carb is #6's on the run and #8 on the side. Very unique.
The supply "T"'s are #8 male on the run and #8 female on the side. Also very unique.
Ensures #8 fuel supply line all the way until it splits into two #6.

[superdave013]

Thanks SD.
I have a 1/2 tube bent 180 already. It takes a HUGE radius on a 1/2 tube and still be able to put it in the power flare machine. Changes the looks quite a bit.
Did not know that. I'm looking at a bender right now that has 1/2 dies with both 1.5" and 2.5" centerline raduis.
So what's up with this fancy power flare machine? Okies getting fancy these days. I got a hand deal from Parker that does a very nice 37degree flare. But now that I think about it with a 1.5 CLR I might have to flare it before I bend. Hummmm

[Infomaniac]

Did not know that. I'm looking at a bender right now that has 1/2 dies with both 1.5" and 2.5" centerline raduis.
So what's up with this fancy power flare machine? Okies getting fancy these days. I got a hand deal from Parker that does a very nice 37degree flare. But now that I think about it with a 1.5 CLR I might have to flare it before I bend. Hummmm
Well I guess there is one in every crowd.
Flare before you bend? Who would have thunk it?
I better check the rule book on that.

[Infomaniac]

Well the hosers have it. Version 5.1 There is some mismatch in the carb lines. ( I knew all along and tried to hide it) Unavoidable with hand bent assemblies. None of this is real tight so some slight tweaking can get it squared up a bit more.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211bypass51.jpg

[Taylorman]

SD, the hand flare tool you spoke about, will it flare SS .035 tubing? All my plumbing is SS tubing and i have to get my flares done at a local power steering shop that has a hydraulic flaring tool. I use a hand bender to bend all the tubing. I dont have to tell you what my choice would be between tubing or hose.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/161161DCP_2372-med.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/161DCP_3938-med.JPG

[superdave013]

Taylorman, I've always liked your set up. Even went with the s.s. nuts and sleeves. NICE
I bought my flaring tool from Jerry Bickel Race Cars. But I later found out it's made by Parker. Just be sure to get the 37 degree one.
Sorry for the shakey camera hand
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/48flare-med.JPG
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/48flare1-med.JPG

[HighRoller]

I have a suggestion for version 6.2. Have the main inlet hose coming vertically up towards the carbs and split with a Y. At the carb attachment, each hose connects to a T fitting that allows you to attach lines to the carbs and run one line in between them. In the middle is another T-fitting that accepts both lines and has the bypass pointing back down. You could even make a trick holder that would hold both the Y block and bypass and route the fuel lines. I'll have to draw it up and digicam it. I think it would be much simpler unless I'm missing something.

[Sleek-Jet]

Taylorman, I've always liked your set up. Even went with the s.s. nuts and sleeves. NICE
I bought my flaring tool from Jerry Bickel Race Cars. But I later found out it's made by Parker. Just be sure to get the 37 degree one.
I'm a little fuzzy on this as it's been a while since I've worked with solid tubing, but you do not have to double flare if you use sleeves, is that correct??

[HighRoller]

Info, versions 6.2 and 7.5 are in your Email. Hope you approve.

[texas-19]

hey,what about the rest of us?

[Taylorman]

I'm a little fuzzy on this as it's been a while since I've worked with solid tubing, but you do not have to double flare if you use sleeves, is that correct??
Thats correct.

[superdave013]

I'm a little fuzzy on this as it's been a while since I've worked with solid tubing, but you do not have to double flare if you use sleeves, is that correct??
on high pressure lines line brake lines you do. Take a peek at the flares on your bassett water injection lines sometime.

[Taylorman]

on high pressure lines line brake lines you do. Take a peek at the flares on your bassett water injection lines sometime.
Mine are single flared.

[HighRoller]

hey,what about the rest of us?
Instead of posting possibly hard to read pics, I took them in the best possible mode (huge file size) to show the detail. Info, being computer literate, can easily resize them to fit on here whereas I'd need an owner's manual, a bottle of JD and three circus midgets to figure it out. I'm not leaving you guys out, just wanted to make it easy on myself.
I don't know a whole lot about bypass fuel systems, but I was hoping if I had a good idea or two Info will cut me a deal when I order an engine from him :D

[Taylorman]

Question for you Superdave
Can you tell me what size AN fitting will have the larger hole with 1/2 NPT threads on the other end. In other words will a -10 x 1/2 npt have a larger hole than a -8 x 1/2 npt. What about a -12 x 1/2 npt, is the hole in that one larger than a -10. Im looking for the fitting with least restriction but im limited by the 1/2 npt threads.
Thanks

[Taylorman]

Saw this in the image center. Kind of similar to what your doing.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/409IMGP0070.JPG

[superdave013]

Question for you Superdave
Can you tell me what size AN fitting will have the larger hole with 1/2 NPT threads on the other end. In other words will a -10 x 1/2 npt have a larger hole than a -8 x 1/2 npt. What about a -12 x 1/2 npt, is the hole in that one larger than a -10. Im looking for the fitting with least restriction but im limited by the 1/2 npt threads.
Thanks
Ok, out of my bins this is what I measured.
-10 id = .515 1/2" NPT id = .515
-12 id = .623 1/2" NPT id = .505
Friggen hole in the NPT end of the -12 is 0.010" SMALLER! I didn't expect that one. I bet these #'s would vary some from different manufactures.

[Taylorman]

Ok, out of my bins this is what I measured.
-10 id = .515 1/2" NPT id = .515
-12 id = .623 1/2" NPT id = .505
Friggen hole in the NPT end of the -12 is 0.010" SMALLER!
Is there enough meat on the npt side to drill out the hole to .623 on the -12 fitting?

[superdave013]

No, don't think so.

[Sleek-Jet]

Saw this in the image center. Kind of similar to what your doing.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/409IMGP0070.JPG
I've got one suggestion. Instead of zip-tying the hoses together, get a couple more adel (cushion) clamps and clamp them together using a machine screw and nut, very sano.
Info's pictures show how it's done, check out the hoses in front of the block.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/504/211bypass5.jpg