Engine Builders??

[NOTALENT]

Well after I rebuilt my 454 in my 1999 sleekcraft sundancer I ended up somehow messing it up agian. I spun 3 main bearings. It ran great for 2hrs thru the break in. and then started knocking. I am now low on funds. My buddy who builds engines for advantage said that its probaly because of the truck pan I am using. So I am now on the market. Possibly for a short block or something. not to expensive. Any Ideas?

[058]

Cheaper in the long run to just belly up and pay to have a pro build your engine if you aren't sure what you are doing. Doing it twice is never the way to save $$$$$

[Kindsvater Flat]

Well after I rebuilt my 454 in my 1999 sleekcraft sundancer I ended up somehow messing it up agian. I spun 3 main bearings. It ran great for 2hrs thru the break in. and then started knocking. I am now low on funds. My buddy who builds engines for advantage said that its probaly because of the truck pan I am using. So I am now on the market. Possibly for a short block or something. not to expensive. Any Ideas?
Contact Squeezing Spectra on the boards. He can build motors.

[Nucking futs]

Cheaper in the long run to just belly up and pay to have a pro build your engine if you aren't sure what you are doing. Doing it twice is never the way to save $$$$$
True that!!!!!

[GofastRacer]

Well after I rebuilt my 454 in my 1999 sleekcraft sundancer I ended up somehow messing it up agian. I spun 3 main bearings. It ran great for 2hrs thru the break in. and then started knocking. I am now low on funds. My buddy who builds engines for advantage said that its probaly because of the truck pan I am using. So I am now on the market. Possibly for a short block or something. not to expensive. Any Ideas?
If you're not educated enough to do it right yourself, save your money and have someone else do it right for you, it will cost but it will save a bundle in the long run!..Just do your homework, there's a shit load of so called "engine builders" out there but there's a BIG difference between "assembling" and "building" a motor, anybody can bolt one together, not everyone can "build" a motor!...

[Infomaniac]

Get someone local to help you out.
I have a decent oil pan that I took in on trade on e-bay right now. Along with a few other items. I just listed it last night. 4 people watching it now. Click the link below
Here You go (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7935368930&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT)

[texas-19]

I ran a truck pan for 4 years on my jet boat with no problem,i did finally switch to a dooley though.Did you prime the engine?

[NOTALENT]

Yeah..I primed it for 45 min with a drill and an old distributor shaft..I had lots of oil pressure on the gauge.

[Foggerjet]

.....still have that 512 short block, best of everything, Moldex, Carillo, JE, Jesel belt drive, Stef's fab'd pan BIG solid cam w/rollers. Not cheap tho, PM if interested
fog

[TIMINATOR]

The proper way to prime an engine is to run the drill just long enough to prime the pump, fill the filter, and get pressure to the galleys. You don't need or want to run the drill any longer, if you do, then you are just washing off all of that 35.00/ gallon prelube into the pan. Some small air bubbles in the galleys or valvetrain is preferable to starting the engine with only engine oil in there. Thats just my opinion, I could be wrong. TIMINATOR

[Squirtin Thunder]

The proper way to prime an engine is to run the drill just long enough to prime the pump, fill the filter, and get pressure to the galleys. You don't need or want to run the drill any longer, if you do, then you are just washing off all of that 35.00/ gallon prelube into the pan. Some small air bubbles in the galleys or valvetrain is preferable to starting the engine with only engine oil in there. Thats just my opinion, I could be wrong. TIMINATOR
I agree 100%
Jim

[steelcomp]

The proper way to prime an engine is to run the drill just long enough to prime the pump, fill the filter, and get pressure to the galleys. You don't need or want to run the drill any longer, if you do, then you are just washing off all of that 35.00/ gallon prelube into the pan. Some small air bubbles in the galleys or valvetrain is preferable to starting the engine with only engine oil in there. Thats just my opinion, I could be wrong. TIMINATOR
When I get pressure on the gauge, I roll the motor over by hand two complete revolutions...this cycles all the lifters and makes sure the top is oiled. I don't like to do this with flat tappets though...the fewer revolutions the better with them, untill the motor starts. I've never flattened a cam.

[boatslayer]

i suggest Danny Roslen he is out of atascadero ,california
give him a call im shure he could build u a biatchen motor
805-462-0155

[Moneypitt]

I'm really surprised the drill lasted that long..............MP

[78Eliminator]

Get someone local to help you out.
I have a decent oil pan that I took in on trade on e-bay right now. Along with a few other items. I just listed it last night. 4 people watching it now. Click the link below
Here You go (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7935368930&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT)
Nice marketing Ron, that is, the picture of the hot chick in the background.... :sqeyes:

[djunkie]

Nice marketing Ron, that is, the picture of the hot chick in the background.... :sqeyes:
I passed right by that until you said chick in the picture. Had to go back and check it out. :D

[NOTALENT]

I'm really surprised the drill lasted that long..............MP
Not 45 minutes straight..the it was a low volt cordless drill..it kept heating up. so let it cool down.

[INEEDAV]

Not 45 minutes straight..the it was a low volt cordless drill..it kept heating up. so let it cool down.
Did you roll the engine with a wrench while you were priming it?

[GofastRacer]

The proper way to prime an engine is to run the drill just long enough to prime the pump, fill the filter, and get pressure to the galleys. You don't need or want to run the drill any longer, if you do, then you are just washing off all of that 35.00/ gallon prelube into the pan. Some small air bubbles in the galleys or valvetrain is preferable to starting the engine with only engine oil in there. Thats just my opinion, I could be wrong. TIMINATOR
Well, this is the way I've been doing it for 20+yrs with a flat tappet cam and never once had a cam failure or a dirty filter after break in!. I cringe at turning the motor over just to adjust the valves on a new cam to begin with so I turn the motor over as least as I can get by with. I fill the filter with oil before I put it on(saves on the drill motor), I like to see oil flowing out the pushrods so I prime until I see oil flowing from some of the pushrods, then turn it a half a turn till I see more flowing and so on, usually takes one cam revolution and all are flowing!..Make sure timing is right and enough fuel and motor starts in less than one revolution!....Works for me!.. ;)

[Jet City]

Well, this is the way I've been doing it for 20+yrs with a flat tappet cam and never once had a cam failure or a dirty filter after break in!. I cringe at turning the motor over just to adjust the valves on a new cam to begin with so I turn the motor over as least as I can get by with. I fill the filter with oil before I put it on(saves on the drill motor), I like to see oil flowing out the pushrods so I prime until I see oil flowing from some of the pushrods, then turn it a half a turn till I see more flowing and so on, usually takes one cam revolution and all are flowing!..Make sure timing is right and enough fuel and motor starts in less than one revolution!....Works for me!.. ;)
I'm just a hobby builder, but I think the above statement about setting the initial timing (before any cranking) is really important, I use my adjustable timing light to roll the distributer into an acceptable initial position where it will fire immediately. I would recomend taking your (entire) engine to a local reputable shop and see what they can do for you.

[Foggerjet]

Thanks for all the e-mails about the 512. it now has a new home, A nice fella from NC Picked her up last night.
Thanks again
fog

[TIMINATOR]

If you prelube EVERYTHING in the engine during assembly, and you should, rolling it over during the prelube is irrelevent, its allready oiled! P.S. I have an almost new Milodon 10 qt. pan and pickup for a BBC. TIMINATOR

[steelcomp]

If you prelube EVERYTHING in the engine during assembly, and you should, rolling it over during the prelube is irrelevent, its allready oiled! P.S. I have an almost new Milodon 10 qt. pan and pickup for a BBC. TIMINATOR
Slow rolling a flat tappet cam, no matter what you put on it, is never good, untill the surfaces have had time to mate. It's the same for any two mated surfaces. Push rod ends, rocker balls (for stock stuff), etc. Anywhere there is high pressure. It makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up to have to turn over a flat tappet motor, like GF Racer says, before it's run, and even after it has. If you have to crank your motor continually, you're asking for galling. Roller lifters aren't a problem. I use Torco MPZ for bearings and non pressure points, and I have a good moly for flat tappet cams made by US Lubricants called HPL Assembly lube.They're in Pomona, CA. This is the thickest, stickiest, gooiest molymlube I've ever seen, and never have lost a cam using it. I use it on cast dist. gears too. The Torco MPZ is the best stuff for bearings, wrist pins, lifter bores, valve stems and oil pumps. It dosen't run off, and is good especially if your motor is going to sit for a while. I just use motor oil on timing chains, thrust bearings, roller lifters and rockers, and a little on the rings, or dry seal on the cyl bores. If I'm re-assembling a motor that has already run, I use the Torco on everything that I would othewrwise use the moly on.
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7934&stc=1

[AMC-Nut]

If you don't try, you will never learn. An eduaction is expensive though!
I would get a short block from these guys!
Best Motor! (http://www.theengineshop.com/sbkits8.shtml)

[steelcomp]

If you don't try, you will never learn. An eduaction is expensive though!
I would get a short block from these guys!
Best Motor! (http://www.theengineshop.com/sbkits8.shtml)
You think an education is expensive, how 'bout ignorance?
:hammerhea :D

[Mr.&Mrs.Budlight]

Guys what he said about losing 3 main bearing after breakin and 2hrs running. As long as he prelubed it, something else is way wrong. I've built many many motors,[some after a substandard build] and I doubt prelube was the problem. But you do need a honest builder to find what really went wrong. It's easy to blame the first thing you find wrong. You must play detective as you disassemble the whole motor to find the real problem. That's my favorite part! It's also the most challenging. Once your good at that, experience is the best teacher. Good luck on your motor! Budlight

[AMC-Nut]

Give Smokey Yunick a call he'll build you the "best" motor, PERIOD! Of course he's dead.

[Jordy]

Give Smokey Yunick a call he'll build you the "best" motor, PERIOD! Of course he's dead.
So that really helps this conversation now doesn't it??? :confused: :confused: :notam:

[78Eliminator]

So that really helps this conversation now doesn't it??? :confused: :confused: :notam:
That sure was mean buddy. I am giving you a virtual red chicklet, and guess what? It's unsigned too....

[steelcomp]

One initial question I ask is did you change bottom end fasteners and not re aligh hone?? :coffeycup One of the most common mistakes of DIY'ers.

[Mr.&Mrs.Budlight]

Is this a Gen 4 motor? or a 5or6? The oiling systems are different and there are a couple of things to watch on 5&6's. Budlight :idea: :confused: