BBF Head question

[likwidsukr]

Is this basically the same as DoVE.
""these are good used 1968 heads C8VE-E for a ford 460 they have around 2000 miles on them they had a triple angle valve job and new valves and new springs they are in bolt on and go condition these are hard to find I bought them on ebay about 1 year ago for over $500.00 get them for less than that remember these are heavy and not cheep to ship good luck bidding""
He is wanting $450.00 :sqeyes:

[LakesOnly]

Is this basically the same as DoVE.
"these are good used 1968 heads C8VE-E for a ford 460 they have around 2000 miles on them they had a triple angle valve job and new valves and new springs they are in bolt on and go condition these are hard to find I bought them on ebay about 1 year ago for over $500.00 get them for less than that remember these are heavy and not cheep to ship good luck bidding"
He is wanting $450.00 :sqeyes:
C8VE-A, C8VE-E, C9VE-A, D0VE-A and D0VE-C are all of the early-style cylinder heads that are essentiallly identical to one another. I personally prefer the C8 and C9 heads because the Thermactor passages are never drilled in those castings.
There is no indication as to whether or not they have any port work. The factory 429/460 iron heads react noticably different depending on the porting approach, and poorly ported castings can sometimes be difficult to correct/improve upon with additional grinding once the wrong material is removed. Find out if any port work has been done.
My early-style castings--cleaned, blasted and bare/unassembled--sell for $200-$275 depending on the set. I recently sold a freshly rebuilt pair of D0VE-C heads on eBay for just $305 with new valve job including bronze guide inserts, never run since rebuild. So stock componentry doesn't hold much value when the buyer wants to ditch it all and add big stainless valves, etc. Makes me feel $450 is bit of a steep price for nice, freshly prepped, unported castings with a brand new valve job and not yet run...at least on ebay. Sounds like these heads have been run and still have stock valve sizes, etc. You need to ask this guy more questions about what's in those heads for that price. Stock springs or aftermarket? Valve sizes and material? Any portwork? Etcetera. The answers to these questions will make or break the value of the deal relative to his asking price.
LO
If you want early-style heads with proper portwork, I can offer you freshly ported bare castings and advise you how to set them up for your specific build...or I can send you fully assembled heads with big valves and nice springs, etc. Shipping from coast-to-coast is about $38 per head, though.

[likwidsukr]

C8VE-A, C8VE-E, C9VE-A, D0VE-A and D0VE-C LO
If you want early-style heads with proper portwork, I can offer you freshly ported bare castings and advise you how to set them up for your specific build...or I can send you fully assembled heads with big valves and nice springs, etc. Shipping from coast-to-coast is about $38 per head, though.
Paul,
I have the D3ve heads. Am I wasting my time trying to make a "nice" set or should I get some Better heads. Also I am wanting some roller rockers, keeping the extra work in mind to use the d3 heads is also a thought. In other words can a set of d3 heads with some port work be capable of supporting 500 hp. With good a good setup/valvetrain/cam etc
Steve

[LakesOnly]

Paul,
I have the D3ve heads. Am I wasting my time trying to make a "nice" set or should I get some Better heads. Also I am wanting some roller rockers, keeping the extra work in mind to use the d3 heads is also a thought. In other words can a set of d3 heads with some port work be capable of supporting 500 hp. With good a good setup/valvetrain/cam etc
Steve
My D3's support 580HP with a small .232@.050" cam. Granted, they are max effort. I want to eventually go to a 533 shortblock under my D3's and will be shooting for 650HP with a solid lifter cam. So yes, it's possible to have very nice D3's.
500HP in your case is easy with the D3VE heads. The only additional mod that needs to be done to the D3's and not the early-style castings is the valve train mod. And keep in mind that this mod will cost less than the purchase of those early-style heads. Finally, in your case you don't necessarily need to perform this mod if you run the Crane roller tip adjustable rockers for the D3VE heads that I sent you a picture of earlier.
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/41582921-e836-02000180-.jpg
They're a bolt-on deal, pushrod guideplates and all. The money for the early-style heads can go to your valve train.
Good intake valve bowl blending and proper overall exhaust port work on the D3's (or D0VE's) will be necessary, as well as a good cam kit and flat-top pistons for your D3's.
If it's 500HP you want, remember you have the option of spending the $450 for those D0VE heads on your D3 mods (big valves, etc.).
If you think you will be needing more compression ratio in the future for a higher horsepower build, it might be better to invest in the early-style heads at this point. Or, you may build your 500HP D3-headed motor now and then take your sweet time prepping some early-style heads for a head swap down the road. Just remember that flat-tops and D3's will give you around 9.5:1 compression ratio (pump gas) and swapping to the early heads will bump c/r to about 11:1 (high octane gas).
LO

[LakesOnly]

Paul,
I have the D3ve heads. Am I wasting my time trying to make a "nice" set...
Dude, if somebody is telling you that D3's are "smogger" heads, then they are living in the yesteryear of 429/460's and unaware that:
the intake port architecture of D3's versus early-style castings are damn near identical.
techically speaking, the exhaust port short-turn radius is better than the early-style castings.
It is NOT an open chamber head; it is a quench-style, closed chamber head just like the early-style except that it is 96 cc's instead of 76 cc's.
The have now been successfully ported to flow on par with early-style castings and support similar HP numbers.
D3's were presumed to be smogger heads because they arrived with the gas crunch, hence the bigger combustion chambers for the purpose of lowering compression ratio. Today, this can be of benefit if you are building the (now popular) stroker and wish to keep pump gas friendly compression ratios.
Further, the D3VE head followed the open chamer D2VE head which Ford ditched after only a year because of its lesser perfomance relative to the other two designs. The fact that the D3VE head followed the D2 probably did not help its reputation early on and so it was presumed a poor design head.
LO

[Squirtin Thunder]

The problem is people are Stupid. They call an Airpump a smog pump. They call the Air boss a Smog bump. It has been proven many times leaving the Air pump on an engine will actually creat more power and burn cleaner,put less emitants into the atmospher.

[likwidsukr]

Finally, in your case you don't necessarily need to perform this mod if you run the Crane roller tip adjustable rockers for the D3VE heads that I sent you a picture of earlier.
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/41582921-e836-02000180-.jpg
They're a bolt-on deal, pushrod guideplates and all. The money for the early-style heads can go to your valve train.
LO
Paul I did not forget that PM. Is it just as good to use them as doing the mod and getting the gold series? That is where I learned about the D3 roller rocker ( Crane gold etc.) problem. I remember the crane rollors you had talked about. I am happy now and I'm keeping my D3's. I will get a good formula later on port flow and etc.

[Squirtin Thunder]

I would not waste my money on roller tips for anything. For about $50 more you can get a full roller rocker. I don't recomend the Crane conversion on anything with over 98lbs on the seat. The weak spot is at the flange where it swiches from 5/16 to 7/16. They break !!!! They also break at 28ftlbs of torque when installing. The funny thing is they always give you 2 extra studds.
Jim

[LakesOnly]

Is it just as good to use them as doing the mod and getting the gold series?
A Crane Gold Series rocker is a true roller rocker and would be a superior to the Crane roller tipped rockers pictured above. The machining and retapping of the cyliner head takes no time at all; then just buy the Crane Gold Series and some rocker studs. With ARP rocker studs and the Gold Series rockers, you would have a very nice set-up that would not only support your build but much higher horsepower builds down the road.
LO

[LakesOnly]

Here is the print for the modification:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/350D3VE_Pedestal_Mod.jpg
And here are the before and after pics:
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/rocker-pedestal-labled.jpg
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/stud-boss-machined-tapped.jpg
(photos courtesy of SMJ/RHP)
LO

[Squirtin Thunder]

Very Nice Paul !!!

[likwidsukr]

Paul
Jim
Thanks guys. LO I have that diagram saved from the PM you sent very neat. Looks easy and quick. I will give to my machinist :clover: I really think with what Im doing my goal anyways that I will be very happy with the mods for true rollor rockers, some port work (which I will need help with later) and a set of OTs. I will then be in Like Flynn :chi:

[likwidsukr]

Here is the print for the modification:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/350D3VE_Pedestal_Mod.jpg
And here are the before and after pics:
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/rocker-pedestal-labled.jpg
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/stud-boss-machined-tapped.jpg
(photos courtesy of SMJ/RHP)
LO
Simply awesome info :cool:

[steelcomp]

Paul...don't get bent, 'cause I'm not trying to start something here, but as far as those Comp rockers go...if you have over 350# open pressure they'll burn up at the ball fulcrum. I've seen it happen at 300#. Comp recommends no more than 350# with these rockers, (used to be 300#) but you'll never get anyone selling them to tell you that, nor does it say anywhere on the packaging. You have to look in the catalogue to find the "fine print". Hopefully, and expectedly, you already know this, but I didn't want to take the chance if you didn't. Hate to see something go bad on a nice motor like that.
steel
My D3's support 580HP with a small .232@.050" cam. Granted, they are max effort. I want to eventually go to a 533 shortblock under my D3's and will be shooting for 650HP with a solid lifter cam. So yes, it's possible to have very nice D3's.
500HP in your case is easy with the D3VE heads. The only additional mod that needs to be done to the D3's and not the early-style castings is the valve train mod. And keep in mind that this mod will cost less than the purchase of those early-style heads. Finally, in your case you don't necessarily need to perform this mod if you run the Crane roller tip adjustable rockers for the D3VE heads that I sent you a picture of earlier.
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/41582921-e836-02000180-.jpg
They're a bolt-on deal, pushrod guideplates and all. The money for the early-style heads can go to your valve train.
Good intake valve bowl blending and proper overall exhaust port work on the D3's (or D0VE's) will be necessary, as well as a good cam kit and flat-top pistons for your D3's.
If it's 500HP you want, remember you have the option of spending the $450 for those D0VE heads on your D3 mods (big valves, etc.).
If you think you will be needing more compression ratio in the future for a higher horsepower build, it might be better to invest in the early-style heads at this point. Or, you may build your 500HP D3-headed motor now and then take your sweet time prepping some early-style heads for a head swap down the road. Just remember that flat-tops and D3's will give you around 9.5:1 compression ratio (pump gas) and swapping to the early heads will bump c/r to about 11:1 (high octane gas).
LO

[TIMINATOR]

The C8 heads do not have hardened exhaust seats, budget another $175 parts and labor for that. Or else allways use leaded fuel. I have used the pedestal conversion kits with a mild solid street roller at 230 @ .050 and .590 lift, it lasted 3+ years. We do quite a few conversion milling set-ups, never had any problems, that would be preferable in a boat deal to the bolt on Crane thing. TIMINATOR

[likwidsukr]

The C8 heads do not have hardened exhaust seats, budget another $175 parts and labor for that. Or else allways use leaded fuel. I have used the pedestal conversion kits with a mild solid street roller at 230 @ .050 and .590 lift, it lasted 3+ years. We do quite a few conversion milling set-ups, never had any problems, that would be preferable in a boat deal to the bolt on Crane thing. TIMINATOR
Thanks Tim I am fairly convinced that that is the way to go.

[LakesOnly]

Comp, I think for a 500HP build, nothing more than something like a Comp 924-16 with a 125lb. seat pressure at the standard installed height would be more than adequate. The cam to get 475-500HP with OT headers, tunnel ram (learned though a PM) and requisite port work on the heads would not need to be very agressive...perhaps .550" lift. (My builds in the "bang-for-buck" thread were somewhat conservative). Off the top of my head I cannot recall what the spring pressure at that maximum valve lift might be, but I don't believe it would be 350lbs.
On the other hand, the fact that you have seen signs of failure at just 300lbs, combined with Squirts claim of the studs breaking (although he did not give spring or lift spec's), indeed gives me pause. So...duly noted.
Fortunately, liquidsukr has opted to go with the tried and true higher-end rollers rockers with the valve train mod.
LO
p.s.:
Paul...don't get bent, 'cause I'm not trying to start something here...
steel
Ha! Dude, that's an old and different thread...I'm over it.

[steelcomp]

I think for a 500HP build, nothing more than something like a Comp 924-16 with a 125lb. seat pressure at the standard installed height would be more than adequate. The cam to get 475-500HP with OT headers, tunnel ram (learned though a PM) and requisite port work on the heads would not need to be very agressive...perhaps .550" lift. (My builds in the "bang-for-buck" thread were somewhat conservative). Off the top of my head I cannot recall what the spring pressure at that maximum valve lift might be, but I don't believe it would be 350lbs.
On the other hand, the fact that you have seen signs of failure at just 300lbs, combined with Squirts claim of the studs breaking (although he did not give spring or lift spec's), indeed gives me pause. So...duly noted.
Fortunately, liquidsukr has opted to go with the tried and true higher-end rollers rockers with the valve train mod.
LO
p.s.:
Ha! Dude, that's an old and different thread...I'm over it.
Cool...I expected so. Same here. :D :lightsabe :D

[steelcomp]

Comp 924's ...112 @1.900, 350 @ 1.200. It's a 347#/in. spring, so if you're at 125#, and you go .500 lift, you're looking at 298# +/- open. .550 lift gives you about 316# +/-.

[steelcomp]

The C8 heads do not have hardened exhaust seats, budget another $175 parts and labor for that. Or else allways use leaded fuel. I have used the pedestal conversion kits with a mild solid street roller at 230 @ .050 and .590 lift, it lasted 3+ years. We do quite a few conversion milling set-ups, never had any problems, that would be preferable in a boat deal to the bolt on Crane thing. TIMINATOR
I've used BB Chev screw in studs and Ford guide plates on the DO's with no modifications, and they worked perfectly. This was with Boss 351 adjustable rockers (stock) and poly locks. The bottom of the rocker was fairly close to the stud nut, but not a problem. Alum roller rockers might be a little tight because of their extra thickness at the bottom, but it might be worth a try.

[LakesOnly]

The C8 heads do not have hardened exhaust seats, budget another $175 parts and labor for that. Or else always use leaded fuel. TIMINATOR
I would generally disagree with this on the C8VE heads or any iron Ford heads up to the mid-seventies; I just don't know anyone that has this problem with the Ford factory iron. And this most definitely won't be a problem with the seat pressures and rpm's on this build.
I know a guy that spins his 1970 D0OE-R heads to 8000 rpm for 18-20 seconds at a time and sees no evidence of pounded/sunken seats whenever he freshens. In this case, though, yes there is lead in the fuel...but the abuse of the pulling truck motor is severe never-the-less.
I think in small aircraft aviation, planes that were built back when AvGas had 4 grams/gal lead are now running on unleaded if needed, and the recommendation is to run a tank of 100LL (2 grams/gal lead) every 25 engine hours or so. A little lead goes a long way on the valve seats.
I admit that ideally it would be wise to run a splash of AvGas or race gas every few tankfuls...
LO

[likwidsukr]

Cool...I expected so. Same here. :D :lightsabe :D
I suspect you know I was messin with ya as well.

[likwidsukr]

Guys please. Keep posting info as ya see fit. I am learning as I go.
I am going for the D3ve heads do the mod on the head, getting Crane Gold rollor rockers (or equal feel free to suggest better/4 money). I will start a new thread on valve train soon.
Steve :clover:

[dave186]

what are the prices on those crane rockers? im kinda thinkin they would work perfect for my engine.

[likwidsukr]

what are the prices on those crane rockers? im kinda thinkin they would work perfect for my engine.
I have seen new sets on E bay for $179.00 or so

[steelcomp]

I suspect you know I was messin with ya as well.
I'll take your word for it...this time LOL!!! :D

[Squirtin Thunder]

what are the prices on those crane rockers? im kinda thinkin they would work perfect for my engine.
I can help you on the price on those Dave !!!

[Squirtin Thunder]

Guys please. Keep posting info as ya see fit. I am learning as I go.
I am going for the D3ve heads do the mod on the head, getting Crane Gold rollor rockers (or equal feel free to suggest better/4 money). I will start a new thread on valve train soon.
Steve :clover:
For you and Dave I would go with the more expencive Crane narrow body rocker.

[Squirtin Thunder]

On the other hand, the fact that you have seen signs of failure at just 300lbs, combined with Squirts claim of the studs breaking (although he did not give spring or lift spec's), indeed gives me pause. So...duly noted.
They also break at 28ftlbs of torque when installing. The funny thing is they always give you 2 extra studds.
Jim

[LakesOnly]

...getting Crane Gold roller rockers (or equal feel free to suggest better/4 money). I will start a new thread on valve train soon.
Steve :clover:
Please sukr...not another thread.
Crane Gold Series, Ford SVO's are blue anodized Cranes (made by Crane), Harland Sharps, DOVE's are yet another brand...
While you're at it, you may as well look into hardened pushrods and guideplates.
Anyone have personal experience with the Comp Pro Magnums? Stainless Steel, I belive. I've heard mixed reviews on their performance.
LO
p.s. adds up quick, eh sukr?

[Squirtin Thunder]

Please sukr...not another thread.
Crane Gold Series, Ford SVO's are blue anodized Cranes (made by Crane), Harland Sharps, DOVE's are yet another brand...
While you're at it, you may as well look into hardened pushrods and guideplates.
Anyone have personal experience with the Comp Pro Magnums? Stainless Steel, I belive. I've heard mixed reviews on their performance.
LO
p.s. adds up quick, eh sukr?
I like them !!!!

[dave186]

here is another question, what kinda springs will fit my D3VE heads without machining? I know it was tricky to find a set for my GT40 heads on my 351 that didnt require machining.

[Squirtin Thunder]

here is another question, what kinda springs will fit my D3VE heads without machining? I know it was tricky to find a set for my GT40 heads on my 351 that didnt require machining.
Compcams has the right springs.

[Blown 472]

Please sukr...not another thread.
Crane Gold Series, Ford SVO's are blue anodized Cranes (made by Crane), Harland Sharps, DOVE's are yet another brand...
While you're at it, you may as well look into hardened pushrods and guideplates.
Anyone have personal experience with the Comp Pro Magnums? Stainless Steel, I belive. I've heard mixed reviews on their performance.
LO
p.s. adds up quick, eh sukr?
I have had a set of crower alum roller rockers in my boat for more then nine years and not one failure.

[OkieDave]

I have a set of Crower SS rockers that I bought in 1989 for my first BBF stroker motor. They are still doin fine on a current motor and I bought some Comp SS rockers year before last and they too are doing fine on another motor. They are a little more money than the alum. I have some ford alum ones on my Cobra replica motor(427 Windsor) and they seem to be fine too with five years running on them.

[likwidsukr]

Please sukr...not another thread.
:hammerhea :hammerhea
p.s. adds up quick, eh sukr? Well not too bad yet
Did you sell the OT's :(

[likwidsukr]

I'll take your word for it...this time LOL!!! :D
LOL I was just gettin warmed up :2purples: :D :D :D

[LakesOnly]

Did you sell the OT's?
Sukr,
I wil try to get back on that track tomorrow and get the shipping weight and quote you a total including shipping. I have some previous matters to still attend to first.
LO

[likwidsukr]

Sukr,
I wil try to get back on that track tomorrow and get the shipping weight and quote you a total including shipping. I have some previous matters to still attend to first.
LO
:D :D :D I am in no hurry Paul I was messin :D

[coolchange]

Can I spam this thread with D3 heads, big valve, ported, guide plates, Comp rollers, Isky Hyd (about580 I think), timing chain. Was gonna Ebay it but what should I ask for it? I was thinkin 650? Is that realistic?

[likwidsukr]

Can I spam this thread with D3 heads, big valve, ported, guide plates, Comp rollers, Isky Hyd (about580 I think), timing chain. Was gonna Ebay it but what should I ask for it? I was thinkin 650? Is that realistic?
Hmmmm....... guys???? :rollside:
BTW That is a sweet boat!! Ive seen it a couple times on here wanted to tell ya!!! :cool:

[Squirtin Thunder]

Can I spam this thread with D3 heads, big valve, ported, guide plates, Comp rollers, Isky Hyd (about580 I think), timing chain. Was gonna Ebay it but what should I ask for it? I was thinkin 650? Is that realistic?
As a package that sounds fair.
Jim

[LakesOnly]

Hmmmm....... guys???? :rollside:
For me, I would like to see the port work...
LO

[Squirtin Thunder]

For me, I would like to see the port work...
LO
I would expect that there is more work that can be done.
But;
I have seen a lot of heads that have been taken way too far and are very thin in places and leak !!!!

[Squirtcha?]

Another option for rockers. Not to bad mouth Crane Golds (that'd be pretty hard to do). I'm running these Chromemoly Comps on my 460. Four seasons old and working fine. It's a stronger material than the aluminum and allows them to be a little slimmer than the Cranes. It helps with clearance for the bigger springs.
A little pricey at $299 a set, but I believe they're actually a few bucks cheaper than what the Cranes are selling for.
http://www.jegs.com/photos/2491301.jpg

[Squirtin Thunder]

Another option for rockers. Not to bad mouth Crane Golds (that'd be pretty hard to do). I'm running these Chromemoly Comps on my 460. Four seasons old and working fine. It's a stronger material than the aluminum and allows them to be a little slimmer than the Cranes. It helps with clearance for the bigger springs.
A little pricey at $299 a set, but I believe they're actually a few bucks cheaper than what the Cranes are selling for.
http://www.jegs.com/photos/2491301.jpg
Yes those are a very good option, and stronger.

[speedaddict]

I suppose I'll jump on this thread with my question, as it's sort of on topic. I didn't get many of the engine build specs when I bought my boat, so decided to pull the valve covers off the CJ heads. This is what I've got. Have you guys had pretty good luck with these rockers. Also, the springs look fresh (the engine had some work done just prior to me buying it). I know it's a tough guess, but any ideas who's springs these are, and what specs may be? There is the outer spring, damper, then blue inner spring. TIA.
Bryan

[LakesOnly]

I can tell you that you have Ford 1st generation A-429 Cobra Jet aluminum heads with the SVO rockers.
The roller rockers are manufactured by Crane, and are Crane's Gold Series roller rockers that have simply been anodized in blue rather than the Crane signature gold color, then put in a Ford box.
The retainers and dual springs (plus damper) look nice. I personally can't tell you what they are; the blue inner spring makes me wonder if they're the oem springs that came with the heads.
LO

[speedaddict]

Thanks Paul, I apprecaite it. I also found that the block is a d1ve-a2b. This is the 2 bolt 460 piece, right? The bars that go between the tockers are manley.. did these possibly come stock as well? I'm hoping this setup will take 7k rpm.. I guess I'll find out soon.

[Squirtin Thunder]

Thanks Paul, I apprecaite it. I also found that the block is a d1ve-a2b. This is the 2 bolt 460 piece, right? The bars that go between the tockers are manley.. did these possibly come stock as well? I'm hoping this setup will take 7k rpm.. I guess I'll find out soon.
How did the build on that engine ???
It looks nice but I would definatly get a stud gurdle for those kind of RPMs. Also a main cap support would be of great benifit for life of your engine. Do you have 3/8" push rods in there ???
Jim

[speedaddict]

Were you asking who built the engine? I bought it from a guy in WA. It was bulit by Jim Green's performance center.. I have the receipt for the freshening after a cam gear break. It has a 306s comp cam. UNfortunately I don't have the original build info. I don't know if it has a main girdle or not. Maybe I'll pull the timing chain cover/mounting plate one of these days to check it out.

[Jet City]

Another option for rockers. Not to bad mouth Crane Golds (that'd be pretty hard to do). I'm running these Chromemoly Comps on my 460. Four seasons old and working fine. It's a stronger material than the aluminum and allows them to be a little slimmer than the Cranes. It helps with clearance for the bigger springs.
A little pricey at $299 a set, but I believe they're actually a few bucks cheaper than what the Cranes are selling for.
http://www.jegs.com/photos/2491301.jpg
You can't go wrong with any of the high-end offerings from Comp, Crower, Crane, Isky, Lunati, Miller, ect., ect., but you may want to move to Comp's Hi-Tec line (SS) if you have plans for .650+ lift, I was advised to do so by a Comp tech.

[LakesOnly]

Thanks Paul, I apprecaite it. I also found that the block is a d1ve-a2b. This is the 2 bolt 460 piece, right? The bars that go between the tockers are manley.. did these possibly come stock as well? I'm hoping this setup will take 7k rpm.. I guess I'll find out soon.
Hey, didn't realize it was you, speedaddict...
The D1VE series of blocks seem to have good cylinder wall thickness, and possibly better wall thickness consistency than the D0VE blocks of earlier engineering revision.
The Manley guideplates are for your 3/8" hardened pushrods and likely came with the heads.
If, in fact, your engine is a 429 and not a 460 as you have been told, then 7000 rpm shouldn't be a problem at all, assuming the same care and parts componentry went into your bottom end as we see in your top end. My biggest quesion would be about which rods are in the engine than anything else. Proper tune is important, too.
LO

[speedaddict]

Thanks guys.. Jet city, those are nice pieces. I put them on my small block chev ls1/ls6 hydraulic roller motor. I'm hoping to leave these aluminum pieces on my 429 if at all possible. I've got a solid flat tappet on there now, but am looking to go solid roller one of these days. PM'd you LO

[tahiti cowboy]

who sells that tool to machine the stud bosses down on d3 heads i think its made by crane butt whats the part #

[Squirtin Thunder]

who sells that tool to machine the stud bosses down on d3 heads i think its made by crane butt whats the part #
99023-1

[red73mustang]

Man this is great info and I am sooo glad I went ahead and purchased my D3 Heads for my 545 Stroker set up ! So my best plan of action would be to purchase the Crane 99023-1 tool, bring it to a machine shop along with the nice diagram provided by LakesOnly and they will most likely use some type of lathe or CNC Milling Machine ? Would a "Head Shop" be a better choice or can any machine shop perform this job ? Also, I have heard this type of work can be expensive, any ideas on labor cost ?
Thanks, Chet

[likwidsukr]

Man this is great info and I am sooo glad I went ahead and purchased my D3 Heads for my 545 Stroker set up ! So my best plan of action would be to purchase the Crane 99023-1 tool, bring it to a machine shop along with the nice diagram provided by LakesOnly and they will most likely use some type of lathe or CNC Milling Machine ? Would a "Head Shop" be a better choice or can any machine shop perform this job ? Also, I have heard this type of work can be expensive, any ideas on labor cost ?
Thanks, Chet
I talked to a machinist he said it is a pain in the azz. But Im not sure if it is or not.

[Squirtin Thunder]

I have every set of D3s done this way and it is sure nice to set-up the engine with the proper amount of lifter preload.
Jim