manley rods

[slotracer]

ok getting jacked around by flatlander on my rods. so thinking about swicthing to manley part # 14062 rods. any thoughts on them? thanks
pat(slotracer) :idea:

[÷קmᮆښ×÷]

i have some p/n 14812 's for sale make ya a good deal

[Infomaniac]

Without looking up part numbers. I have a set of stock length Manley "H" beams with 13 hours on them removed from a Teague 800 recently.
Even have a set of 4.500 J&E's on them if you need them.

[slotracer]

they are for a 6.385 piston already have the pistons but now they keep saying the rods are coming :mad:
pat(slotracer) :idea:

[Infomaniac]

Never bought anything from them. They have awesome deals on their site. Every time I wanted to buy, they were out of stock.
I'd take $350.00 and your pistons for my rods, pistons and a set of Total Seal CR series file fit rings.

[steelcomp]

ok getting jacked around by flatlander on my rods. so thinking about swicthing to manley part # 14062 rods. any thoughts on them? thanks
pat(slotracer) :idea:
Pat...what's the HP you're looking at? That's a +.250 BB Chev rod, and unleless you're building near 1000hp, I'd go with the Eagles. Maybe a bolt upgrade to the 2000. Way less expensive, and good rods. Try Competition Products, even if you want to stick with the Manleys.

[slotracer]

what size engine would that give me and what comp.? could i use a strocker crank with them?
pat(slotracer) :idea:

[steelcomp]

i have some p/n 14812 's for sale make ya a good deal
Can't find that P/N.

[Moneypitt]

Check the rod weight. Those Manleys are heavy compared to other hipo rods out there.............MP

[slotracer]

i am hoping to be around the 700-750h.p. range when done.
pat(slotracer) :rollside:

[Infomaniac]

what size engine would that give me and what comp.? could i use a strocker crank with them?
pat(slotracer) :idea:
Most stroker cranks require a .250 long rod. Counterwieghts will not clear the pistons.
I can fix you up with some Callies rods if you don't trust Eagles. They arent cheap but not real expensive. About 520.00 and come with ARP 2000 bolts.

[slotracer]

got a p.m. from fiat48 and he said no manleys either so i guess no go on the rods. what length rods are the callies?
pat(slotracer) :boxed:

[steelcomp]

i am hoping to be around the 700-750h.p. range when done.
pat(slotracer) :rollside:The Eagles are fine at that power, even with the 8740 bolt.
Most stroker cranks require a .250 long rod. Counterwieghts will not clear the pistonsIt also helps retain the stock rod/stroke ratio which is already pretty low with the BB Chev...you sure don't want to go any lower.
Ron, do you know who makes the Callies rods? Are they American? They're nice rods, and a decent price. The bolt upgrade alone is worth $100+.

[Infomaniac]

got a p.m. from fiat48 and he said no manleys either so i guess no go on the rods. what length rods are the callies?
pat(slotracer) :boxed:
They are brand new so whatever length you want. :)

[÷קmᮆښ×÷]

look here (http://www.flatlanderracing.com/manleyrods-alum04.html) Can't find that P/N.

[slotracer]

ok looks like the noise :argue: that i made yesterday worked :) . got a e-mail they are shipping them on 2 day ups. from another warehouse dirict to me.
pat(slotracer) :boxed:

[THE CABLE GUY]

got a p.m. from fiat48 and he said no manleys either so i guess no go on the rods. what length rods are the callies?
pat(slotracer) :boxed:
WHAT????????...THERE AINT NOTHING WRONG WITH MANLEY STEEL RODS.......I GOT A CANYON FLAT THAT TURNS 8500 RPMS EVERYTIME WITH...HAD ZERO PROBLEMS WITH THEM...IF THEY ARE MACHINED RIGHT...

[THE CABLE GUY]

Slot Racer...after Reading The Posts You Make And Asking The Questions You Do./....have You Ever Thought Of Buying A Crate Motor...turn Key??

[Fiat48]

WHAT????????...THERE AINT NOTHING WRONG WITH MANLEY STEEL RODS.......I GOT A CANYON FLAT THAT TURNS 8500 RPMS EVERYTIME WITH...HAD ZERO PROBLEMS WITH THEM...IF THEY ARE MACHINED RIGHT...
O.k. That is why I sent him a pm. So as not to upset the world about Manley's steel rods. Truth of the matter is that I have seen many broken in 1/2. Maybe they had a material or forging problem...maybe that is over with....don't know but I could not see slotracer taking a chance on something that I knew had failed others.

[slotracer]

fiat sorry about that but out of all the people on this board you are one of the only ones that have answered my questions about what i have in mind about doing with my boat. seems like no matter what someone somewhere is not happy about one thing or another but they all get over it. as far as buying a crate engine what fun would that be, i like to see what i can build and see how long it last. if you build it right you have no problems with it. people who know me know that i just love to build anything that goes. i like to ask questions and see what answers i get. there are alot of people on this board but very few that i do listen to. i have been gathering parts for this engine for about 11/2 years now. its all about save some money and get the right parts and not whipping out the old credit card and just buying someone else's work. before i bought my cole i posted about it because it was my first v-drive boat and i wanted to make sure it would be right for me. i like to thank those that have help me with it. no names mentioned but they know who they are. thanks again
pat(slotracer) :rollside:

[Moneypitt]

Bob, (fiat), we too have had problems with the manleys breaking. I refered to the additional weight in the rotating assembly as a fact. When we switched this time,(away from 6 usable Manleys), we lost 97 grams per rod. Multiply that X8 and thats alot of mass to get rid of. I'm not saying they won't spin up, they will, but running 7500 plus for 5 miles takes it's toll. Buzzing a motor for short distances is not really a good test, even if its a 1/4 mile, it aint the same...............Ray

[steelcomp]

I've heard the same things about the Man's, but didn't want to come across as a "naysayer"...figured it may have been the source of the information and not the rod. That's why I was asking about who makes the Callies rod. Ray's right about the xcess weight, and IMO, "H" beam rods have their issues, anyway. In the long run, "I" beam rods are a better choice, but for the $$, the "H" beams seem to hold up.
Pat, you're doing it right. It took me over a year to build my 467. The rods are one place I keep my fingers crossed. What rods are you getting from Flatlander?

[Infomaniac]

Ron, do you know who makes the Callies rods? Are they American? They're nice rods, and a decent price. The bolt upgrade alone is worth $100+.
Did'nt see that.
Callies makes them. They are import forgings. They machine them. I use them quite a bit. Have 2 pair in 12.5:1 blown injected alcohol engines. Both 522 CID Never had to touch them machine work wise.
Web Site (http://www.compstarcomponents.com/connecting_rods.html)
I have used a bunch of import forged rods. Ohio Crank rods need some attention and so do Eagle. But in the words of one of these two suppliers "theres a little get what you pay for there"

[steelcomp]

Did'nt see that.
Callies makes them. They are import forgings. They machine them. I use them quite a bit. Have 2 pair in 12.5:1 blown injected alcohol engines. Both 522 CID Never had to touch them machine work wise.
Web Site (http://www.compstarcomponents.com/connecting_rods.html)
I have used a bunch of import forged rods. Ohio Crank rods need some attention and so do Eagle. But in the words of one of these two suppliers "theres a little get what you pay for there"
I added that part of the post later...figured you missed it.
Thanks for the link. :D

[slotracer]

steelcomp i am useing the eagle h beam rods with the L19 bolt upgrade. part # CRS63853DL19. i almost have everything i need to build the engine now. the rods and pistons were the last item i needed. i have a stock g.m. steel crank to use but that may change to something else. when i get everything i will post up all the items with their part #'s and see what the opions are.
pat(slotracer) :idea:

[steelcomp]

steelcomp i am useing the eagle h beam rods with the L19 bolt upgrade. part # CRS63853DL19. i almost have everything i need to build the engine now. the rods and pistons were the last item i needed. i have a stock g.m. steel crank to use but that may change to something else. when i get everything i will post up all the items with their part #'s and see what the opions are.
pat(slotracer) Sounds good. I've heard some say that the ARP2000 upgrade isn't worth the money when you can go with the L19's for only a few bucks more, and the L19 is definately a better bolt. Just make sure they (the L19's) stay DRY if they're going to sit for a while, as L19 isn't tolerant of any moisture. A good coat of oil will do.
Keep us posted. :D
Callies makes them. They are import forgings. They machine them. I use them quite a bit. Have 2 pair in 12.5:1 blown injected alcohol engines. Both 522 CID Never had to touch them machine work wise. Thanks Ron...that's good to know.