For Sale 467" BB Chev 650-670 hp

[steelcomp]

Here's a great motor to drop in that winter project. All the work is done. All the best parts, meticulously pro built, just broken in. Carbs to pan, this baby's ready to rock your world! Power in the 6700-6800--rpm range, approx. 650-670hp, excellent torque. Rings gapped for nitrous, pistons by Cosworth, very durable, good endurance motor.
Engine-.+060" 454 (467") BBC 4 bolt. Block fully deburred and race prepped. (Oil passages blended, casting flash removed, etc) Honed w/ deck plates, align honed, decked to -.005", ARP studs-heads and bottom end. Steel GM crank, indexed, ground .010/.010 and re-heat treated/ Nitrided by Marine Crankshaft in Orange Co., CA. Eagle ESP H Beam rods-std length, Cosworth (yes, from England) RR58 alloy pistons, domes hand finished, (.0081"-.0086" piston to wall), JE Plasma Molly rings (file fit-std 1/16-1/16-3/16") and Federal Mogul 3/4 groove race bearings. Rods are at .0022"-.0025" and mains are at .0026"-.0028", 0031"rear. Crank end play .006-.007" Bottom end was just checked less than an hour ago (3/04), and had less than four hours on it total time. Bearings were perfect, and re-installed. Installed new Melling M777 race oil pump. Oil pan is Dooley Jet Boat full length 10qt. w/ windage tray and trap door baffle. Timing set is Comp Cams 3110 double roller w/ torrington block bearing and roller thrust bearing. Front cover is polished cast aluminum. Cam thrust is set at .005-.006" Balancer is Summit Racing SFI approved steel balancer. Rotating assembly was fully balanced, as well.
Camshaft is Racer Brown STX31 (Bob Johneck boat grind) solid flat tappet with .610/.610 lift and 266/264 deg. @.050". Cam was installed straight up for 112 deg. in. lobe ctr. Lash is .014 in/.016 ex hot. Lifters are Comp Cam solid.
Cyl Heads- GM cast iron rect. port open chamber, fully deburred, oil passages blended, guide plates indexed (to put rocker tips corrrectly over valve tips), chambers polished, cc'd and milled to 118.0-118.4 cc. Correct measured comp. ratio= 12.44:1. Heads moderately ported, bowls blended, in. & ex, with 2.25" Manley ProFlo stock length int. (w/ 29 deg back-cut), and 1.90" Manley ProFlo stock length ex. valves. Valve job done at Alan Johnson. 4 angle intake, radiused ex. Springs are Isky 8005A- 130# seat pressure @ 1.900 inst. height., Titanium ret's and CompCams HD Locks. Rockers are Crane Gold, studs are ARP and Stud Girdle is Crane 2 bar set up. Push rods are Manley 3/8".
Intake manifold is Weiand Super Pro Ram, ported and matched to heads, and carbs are basically stock Holley 4780 (800 double pumper) with choke horns removed, sideways mounted with Weiand linkage. MSD billet dist. The motor turns a B impeller 6100, which puts it in the high 600 hp range (aprox 670) and would love to be geared in a v-drive to run 6500-6800, but you'd need to change the oil pan. Great torque. Very nice running engine.
$6500 carbs to pan.
OK...$5500 and that's as low as I go.
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6852&stc=1

[WUTWZAT]

How much are you looking to get for the motor, I am looking at a 72 Nordic V-drive for a winter project. This would be my first V-drive. Would like to get it done in time for FC3 in April.
Jason

[GofastRacer]

How much are you looking to get for the motor, I am looking at a 72 Nordic V-drive for a winter project. This would be my first V-drive. Would like to get it done in time for FC3 in April.
Jason
Not to change the subject but, is your Nordic a flat or a V bottom??....

[steelcomp]

How much are you looking to get for the motor, I am looking at a 72 Nordic V-drive for a winter project. This would be my first V-drive. Would like to get it done in time for FC3 in April.
Jason
Guess I left that part out...$6500, carbs to pan.

[WUTWZAT]

Its a flatbottom.
Oh I see the price now, sorry..... Thanks.
Jason

[GofastRacer]

Its a flatbottom.
Oh I see the price now, sorry..... Thanks.
Jason
Cool boat, mine's a v bottom just going to make a ski boat out of it. Looks like you have an AeroMarine v-drive, that'l keep ya awake!.. :D

[DansBlown73Nordic]

Did you ever buy the Nordic?

[steelcomp]

:notam:

[Thunderbutt]

How much are you looking to get for the motor, I am looking at a 72 Nordic V-drive for a winter project. This would be my first V-drive. Would like to get it done in time for FC3 in April.
Jason
I have this 468 that is in a v-drive cruiser so it has the right oil pan (Avaid http://http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/586P1010003-med.JPG 14 qt) if your interested I'll send you the spec's

[Thunderbutt]

http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/586P1010003-med.JPG

[steelcomp]

bump...price reduced. $5500 and thats as low as I go.

[steelcomp]

:wink:

[steelcomp]

Happy new year!!! :D

[steelcomp]

bump bump :D

[steelcomp]

:coffeycup

[repo man]

guide plates indexed .how do they do this? i have some rocker tip misalignment i need to fix.any ideas would be greatly apreciated, thanks

[steelcomp]

guide plates indexed .how do they do this? i have some rocker tip misalignment i need to fix.any ideas would be greatly apreciated, thanks
Repo man...this is kind of hard to do on an assembled engine, but I guess it can be done. Basically you have to disassemble your valve train. You'll have to cut your guide plates in half by cutting the web between the two sides. You'll weld them back together later, so bevel the edges a little, and clean them good. Re-Install the guide plates as usual, but leave the rocker studs slightly loose. Install push rods and rockers without rocker nuts, so the rocker is just sitting on the valve tip. Try and roll the motor over untill each rocker is at about mid lift.
Now move the guide plate slightly untill the rocker tip is properly aligned with the valve tip, then tighten the stud, being careful to not let the guide plate move. You'll have a little wiggle room back and forth due to slop in the guide plate, but find the average middle over the valve tip. Go through and do this with each rocker and valve. Now if your motor is still assembled, you need to ground your welder directly to each guide plate. This will prevent any ground arcing between the threads of the rocker studs and the head, or anywhere else between the ground and the guide plate. It's obviously best to remove the head, disassemble the valves, and do this on a bench. Do not ground your welder to the block, thinking the head bolts will carry the current. They will, but you run the risk of welding one in it's hole. If you use junk rocker studs, you can ground to them, as they go directly to the guide plate. You'll also need to cover your valves so you don't get weld splatter on the stems. I'd recommend tig welding the plates, but you can mig them as well. Now carefully weld the two halves of the guide plates back together. Afterwords, you need to remove them and wire brush or glass bead them to get any weld slag off of them that might shake loose and get in your motor. Also, it's important to number them as to which cyl number they came off of. They need to go back on the same cyl. Now when you re install them, you'll have to move the plates around a little since there's slop between the plate and rocker stud, but now they will be able to be lined up correctly.

[repo man]

thanks alot for the heads up ,what causes the misalignment in the first place?

[Squirtin Thunder]

thanks alot for the heads up ,what causes the misalignment in the first place?
I believe it is mass production that causes this; Heads and Guides.
Jim

[single barrel]

Thats way to much money for that TURD of a motor. Obviously, thats why dude still owns it. I offer $3189 firm.

[repo man]

I believe it is mass production that causes this; Heads and Guides.
Jim
with my set up it's only the intake rockers that don't line up right. mabe i should send them back to mirlin. oh and by the way let single barrel build that engine for $3200.

[steelcomp]

Thats way to much money for that TURD of a motor. Obviously, thats why dude still owns it. I offer $3189 firm.
What makes it a turd?
Gee, if you weren't such a nice guy, I'd take your offer.
dude
single barrel, why you hiding behind a phony name?

[Squirtin Thunder]

with my set up it's only the intake rockers that don't line up right. mabe i should send them back to mirlin. oh and by the way let single barrel build that engine for $3200.
That could also be the block out of wack, from the factory. I have no idea what you are running, It can be corrected as Steelcomp has said. It is not that much work. And you and I both know that it will make just that little bit on the top end. Well worth the time.
Jim

[Squirtin Thunder]

Thats way to much money for that TURD of a motor. Obviously, thats why dude still owns it. I offer $3189 firm.
If i was looking to buy any BBC for a performance boat jet or Vdrive, that would be a sweet engine. The details that have been watched and adheared to on this engine make it well worth the $$$$. Steelcomp and I both go the extra distance to ensure life out of engines I frankly feel that at that price he is giving it away. 650+hp for $5500 is a steel, that engine encludes everything basically turn key. You would be very hard pressed to find anything of that quality and power for that price anywhere. He has all the specs and a complete build sheet on it. And I will say he is an Anal SOB, so you now it is right.
Jim
BTW- You can always go with a crate 454 HO, 425hp for $4,996 and spend another $2000 - $3500 on all the extra goodies !!!

[repo man]

he's barely asking for what the parts are worth.it's a sweet deal at $6500 let alone $5500.

[steelcomp]

he's barely asking for what the parts are worth.it's a sweet deal at $6500 let alone $5500.
The pistons were $1000.00

[Squirtin Thunder]

:p