Need some tips....ASAP

[clownpuncher]

I've got a small leak in my transom adaptor. I tried to just seal it up some more, but, no good it still leaks. So here's the problem I'm having................I'm having ONE HELL OF A TIME getting the old sealant off. I've gone through a couple of razor blades, scraped my knuckles to the bone and am getting pretty pissed off. Notice the blood? Do any of you have any tips on getting the old shit off? I'm to the point to wear I want to melt that crap with a torch. I thought I would just remove the whole thing and reseal it all. Any advice is appreciated. Sorry for the monster sized pic.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/536PDRM0001.JPG
Thanks in advance.

[Squirtin Thunder]

What type of sealant are you using ??? :idea:

[clownpuncher]

I planned on using the 3M Marine adhesive. 5200 I think. Sound like the right stuff?
Is this job that much of a pain, or am I just a numbskull?

[Jordy]

I'd take it to Wes and tell him to warranty it. Especially with all the free time he has. :D :D :D

[1slowboat]

pull the cover off ( trans adapter ) clean it real good. you might have oil on the hull or plates thats not letting the sealant stick. the 5200 by 3m is the stuff...

[Squirtin Thunder]

I planned on using the 3M Marine adhesive. 5200 I think. Sound like the right stuff?
Is this job that much of a pain, or am I just a numbskull?
If the crew of the Titantic had 3M5200 It would not have sunk.

[clownpuncher]

pull the cover off ( trans adapter ) clean it real good. you might have oil on the hull or plates thats not letting the sealant stick. the 5200 by 3m is the stuff...
Getting the damn thing off is the road block.....................

[hack job]

acetone works with a rag and lots of rubbing;)( the acetone will not hurt the gel)

[1slowboat]

adheasive remover by 3m, or accetone..oh, hack job beat me to it :D

[clownpuncher]

I'd take it to Wes and tell him to warranty it. Especially with all the free time he has. :D :D :D
Isn't he that guy in the boat making business? Trident I believe? :D

[clownpuncher]

acetone works with a rag and lots of rubbing;)( the acetone will not hurt the gel)
I'm on it! I think I have some in the garage.
If all else fails I'll make a trip to Squirtin Thunder. Wifey can gamble whilst I work.
Thanks for the tip
Roland

[lucky]

sealent does seal well huh !!! kinda like geting a manifold off ! when i did the jet on pops boat (14 years ago) get a large putty knife - wedge it in there -- or go inside the boat with a 2 ton hyd bottle jack and shore up between bock and cover - you will have to have help to hold jack and 4x4 - then make sure jack pump is facing the bottom as this is the only way they will pump when not vertical pump easy till ya break seal - and run a piece of wood across cover to spread load . :squiggle: ya did take alllllllll the bolts out right ?? even the ones at the bottom of the transom
its easier if you have a porta power - i didn't so i used a jack

[spectratoad]

Sounds like they got you covered. Put some sealant on that finger and it won't bleed anymore. :cool:

[Squirtin Thunder]

Sounds like they got you covered. Put some sealant on that finger and it won't bleed anymore. :cool:
That fast cure 5200 and a splash of water and your finger is sealed, no more leaking red stuff !!!

[Jeanyus]

The only tip I would have is, stop cutting yourself.

[MAXIMUS]

Ok here is my .02! Take the plates off gently so you don't damage the gel coat! (It can pull chunks off around the edges from time to time) Get a can of brake cleaner & a razor blade. I use the brake cleaner with my thumb nail to get the majority off & then take your razor blade round the corners a bit so it dosn't dig in & gently start scraping along with more brake cleaner! Don't get that stuff on paint or powder coating as it will start eating it up! Gel is no problem... ;)

[clownpuncher]

I finally got the damn thing off. I cut a piece of 2x4 in the shape of a shallow wedge, 22.5 degrees. Once I cleaned off a good portion at the bottom I eased the wedge in there and worked my way up. Worked great. now for the acetone and final cleaning. My knuckle is bleeding worse now so I'll have to try out the 5200 on there :D
I was going to use the 5200 fast cure marine adhesive, but, after a discussion I may order some of the slow cure stuff. Hell, not like I'm putting her in the water tomorrow, but, soon I'll be doing this again
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/536running.jpg
Thanks for all your tips (even the one about quit cutting myself)
Squirtin Thunder, I owe you some cold ones in Laughlin for helping me out and for your generous offer. Thanks a ton.
Roland

[moneysucker]

I was going to suggest silicone remover from home depot but that is good you got it off.

[Squirtin Thunder]

I was going to suggest silicone remover from home depot but that is good you got it off.
Home Depot also has the regular 3M 5200 in stock in the big :squiggle: (coulking )tube !!!! :notam:
Jim

[Rexone]

Home Depot also has the regular 3M 5200 in stock in the big cocking tube !!!!
Jim
That would be caulking tube :D
I've heard some guys have used guitar strings successfully to cut through the silicone without damaging anything too.

[flat broke]

That would be caulking tube :D
I've heard some guys have used guitar strings successfully to cut through the silicone without damaging anything too.
A little note for this one, I prefer the G string :D Seriously though, if you're going to use this method, make sure you wrap the string around a stick on each end rather than holding it with your hands. If you don't play guitar... you can usually find "piano wire" at most hardware stores.
Chris

[Squirtin Thunder]

That would be caulking tube :D
I've heard some guys have used guitar strings successfully to cut through the silicone without damaging anything too.
Thanks Mike !!!!!!

[Squirtin Thunder]

That would be caulking tube :D
I've heard some guys have used guitar strings successfully to cut through the silicone without damaging anything too.
:D

[steelcomp]

3M bug, tar and adhesive remover #08980 is about the best stuff for removing that old stuff, and cleaning the surface for new.

[Fogged Gullwing]

All Beware!!!!!
Sqiurtin Thunder is suspect when recommending chemicals !!! He wanted to seal his intake into the hull with Simpson concrete epoxy. So when I do the setback on his pump I'll need a diamond saw instead of a torch. :hammerhea
Later BK

[Cs19]

unbolt the plates, cut the silicone bead, pry the plates off. Clean off all the old stuff with gas and a razorblade, and re-install.
Reinstall with window and door silicone. DO NOT USE 5200. Jets were made to be removable for servicing, with 5200 its hell to ever get it back out. i know its very tempting to use 5200, but I highly do not reccomend it.
there is no reason why you cant get it to seal with window and door silicone.

[Zeug]

Silicone is great when it is used properly. Most straight silicone caulking will not stick to itself onece dry. So you can not aply a second coat if the first one leaks. You have to remove all traces of silicone, clean with acetone or the like and then reaply. Alot of work!
I agree, the 5200 is kinda overkill if you ever want to remove the plate. It is used mainly for permenent fastening.
One of my favorite silicone caulks with additives is Quad 4. I know it is available at Home Depot now. It has great adhesion properties and can be recoated. Beware of plain old window caulk. Not the best. Silicone II is also crap. It was a good idea that just didnt perform.
Just go get a tube of Quad 4 and cauld something with it. You will know right away why I like it. Most window guys swear by it. Smells strong though.
Kent

[flat broke]

I'm not going to argue with CS19 on it being tougher to remove parts sealed with 5200, but honestly its not that bad. I have used 5200 everytime we R&R'd a pump, transom adapter, whatever. No leaks when we put em back together, and I like the added piece of mind that the 5200 was designed as a "below" the waterline product. It is tougher to break its bond with the hull, but in my mind that's a good thing :)
Chris

[roostwear]

A tip for cleaning up the silicone after you have the plate off, is to go to an autobody supply store and buy a rubber wheel used to remove adhesive left behind when remove body side mouldings. Gets it much cleaner than a razor, you don't have to mess with chemicals, and your hands won't get cut up. It removes adhesive from paint so you know it's relatively safe for gel.

[Nucking futs]

A tip for cleaning up the silicone after you have the plate off, is to go to an autobody supply store and buy a rubber wheel used to remove adhesive left behind when remove body side mouldings. Gets it much cleaner than a razor, you don't have to mess with chemicals, and your hands won't get cut up. It removes adhesive from paint so you know it's relatively safe for gel.
I have some of those, they work awsome....

[clownpuncher]

Since I've already bought some 5200 I'm gonna stay with it. I heard it best decribed as "flexible steel". lol. I bought it for a few reasons, one of them being that it was designed for "below the water line". If I remember correctly it's the same stuff Wes used in the original build. It was a pain in the ass to get apart, but, now that I know what to do I should have an easier time with it next time.

[Froggystyle]

Definitely use the 5200. It is rated for below the water line, and it is by far the best sealant on the market for the job at hand. 7 day cure BTW...
The regular silicone will break down big time with detergent oil in the bilge. There are some pretty good gaps on your transom plate as I recall where it was not exactly an interference fit. Use acetone, make sure both sides are very, very clean and then re-install. Make sure you put a tape line around where you want to NOT have the 5200. Then, when the bead of 5200 is completely around the cover, sealed up to the pump and the boat you smooth it out against the tape. Then, pull the tape and don't touch it again. This way you have a clean tape line for the silicone and you don't have to be so anal on the install. Make sure you pull the tape before it gets hard so it will pull the excess away.
Call me if you have any problems. I just saw this thread. As you saw, with the proper technique, the 5200 is no drama to remove, and by far the best product.
Enjoy.