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SSTSleakcraft
01-02-2005, 03:15 PM
I missed a few pics during assembly like double drilling the crank on 2 and 4 mains, pouring the alloy into the heads, doing the oil return on heads and block, blueprinting the oil pump and other misc. stuff but here it is.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151208.jpg
Restrictors in block and bearings drilled and slotted
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2151209.jpg
Polished beams, ARP bolts, .040 TRW's and balanced.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2151210.jpg
Rods notched on big end.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151213.jpg
Mains studded, rear cap ported.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151225.jpg
Nodular iron crank, .020, .020, Cloyes timing set.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151240.jpg
Mondello pump and P/U reclearanced to .0025 end play, factory baffle.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151214.jpg
Degreeing Clay Smith solid(258@.050, 560 w/1.6 rocker) at 105 CL.
I will have to do heads in a separate posting.

SSTSleakcraft
01-02-2005, 03:34 PM
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151234.jpg
Melting the zinc alloy.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151217.jpg
E casting heads after porting, filling, and blending the exhaust crossover.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151219.jpg
Enlarging the drain hole, drill and tap for stainless hardline return.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151237.jpg
Tapping of rear of block for drain. 1.6 Lunati rockers, custom Howards pushrods.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151233.jpg
Prussian blue around intake ports to check port alignment.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151229.jpg
Layout fluid on intake. Notice dull area from prussian blue around ports after torque up. Scribe a line around the material needed to be removed.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151230.jpg
After porting scribe marks are gone.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151245.jpg
A perfectly aligned port.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151250.jpg
Painting with white eurethane.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151255.jpg
Ready for final assembly and run in stand.

396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
01-02-2005, 04:21 PM
Nice job;) Thats thew way you do a 455 olds;) Maybe some of these rookies can take a few notes from this. The only thing I dont like is the .020 crank. That just scares me on any motor. Other than that, that is a real nice recipe for a olds;) Let us know how she runs. Are you going to dyno it? I am interested id seeing the torque numbers for that babay;)
396

SSTSleakcraft
01-02-2005, 08:17 PM
No dyno time planned at this time. I am going through the pump now also. I just need to cut another .005 off impellar OD. to achieve proper clearance, then off to balance it goes. Going with an 8 3/4 bronze. Will post pics soon on it. Thanks 396...

victorfb
01-02-2005, 10:29 PM
looks pretty good man. what did you set the clearances at for the main and rod bearings? a little loose is my recommendation, but id have to look at my notes to see were i set my last 455 at. id also recommend a larger oil pan if you plan on useing it in a jet boat. ive had good luck with the dooley jet 10qt pan.

SSTSleakcraft
01-03-2005, 06:26 AM
Thanks victorfb, the mains are all .0025, the rods at .002. I agree with the pan, I have a milodon full sump on my other boat and yet I chose the Toronado pan with the extra quart capacity to save a few bucks. Those drains I put on the heads really do work to keep the oil in the pan. I also run a oil cooler which helps tremendously on the bonzai runs.

victorfb
01-03-2005, 01:04 PM
if i remember correctly, those are the factory specs for an automotive 455 motor. a little tight in my opinion for a marine motor but im sure youll be ok. id stay with a 10-40 oil, and if you can, go with a 10 qt pan. also the olds heads have some heavy casting inside the intake ports and can be flowed quite a bit better by just removing alot of the obstruction. especailly around the seat area. it looks as if you have allready assembled quite a bit of it, but in the future id suggest doing some mild porting to those heads. its amazing the increase you can get by just a little mild porting to both the intake and exh.

victorfb
01-03-2005, 01:08 PM
ok, after a closer look at the pics, i see some porting, or atleast smoothing of the intake ports. very cool.

SSTSleakcraft
01-03-2005, 03:09 PM
Without posting all the flows at all lifts, the intakes flowed 258 cfm at .550 lift and exhaust 175 at .550. 30 degree intake, 45 exhaust.

SSTSleakcraft
01-03-2005, 09:00 PM
I forgot to add earlier that factory clearance on bearings are 1-4 mains, .0005-.0021 and #5 .002-.0034, and rods are .0004-.0033.

Liberator TJ1984
01-04-2005, 08:41 AM
Nate, got any Pics of the " Dyno " you can post ??? I looked for a motor pic on the stand but did not find any ?

Ol Yeller
01-04-2005, 07:00 PM
SSTSleakcraft,
Whats the deal with the valley drainbacks? Never seen that before. I undestand the heads having a drainback problem but does the valley not drain well past the cam into the pan?

Mr.&Mrs.Budlight
01-04-2005, 08:12 PM
What's the deal with grooves on the rods? Is this a fix for oldsmobubble oiling problems? Just curious. Good looking motor. Budlight :idea:

Sleek-Jet
01-04-2005, 08:20 PM
SSTSleakcraft,
Whats the deal with the valley drainbacks? Never seen that before. I undestand the heads having a drainback problem but does the valley not drain well past the cam into the pan?
The drain holes in the factory heads are tiny, most of the oil will get pumped to the heads and stay there, it can't get down the holes fast enough. The drain back lines bypass the restriction and get the oil back to the pan. It's my understanding that the cam get's oiled before the heads so you're not starving anything important, just speeding things up a bit.
Mondello recomends the drainback lines as well as the restrictors.

SSTSleakcraft
01-04-2005, 09:48 PM
Olds have a few oiling problems to be addressed. Unlike a BBC with a main priority oil system, (oil is fed through a gallery by pan rail to mains first), Olds are fed to the two galleries next to the cam and "y" together at the mains and the cam bearings. By adding restrictors you limit oil PSI bleed off at cam bearings. By notching bearings you help flow at "y" and provide more oil to the mains. As for the drain in lifter valley, this is an inlet for the heads to drain into. Once again, unlike other engines the Olds has no other "cast in" oil drainback paths other than the one at each end you can hardly stick a pencil in. With an engine with blowby, this only gets worse (possitive crankcase pressure keeps oil from draining back and tries to push it out breathers). The notches on the rods help get lubrication to the wrist pins through the small bore (4.125), to the cylinder walls, and keep oil PSI bleedoff where you want it, at pan level.

HoffmanEagleMarine
01-04-2005, 10:34 PM
Sorry to jump in. We bought a Southwind Dragster Tunnel Hull a while back. Does anyone know what the "JNCT" stands for on the vin or who I can contact? Thanks, DE

Mr.&Mrs.Budlight
01-05-2005, 05:14 AM
Contact--- shawn@southwindjetboats.com Budlight

SSTSleakcraft
01-05-2005, 03:53 PM
Her is some pics of the engine stand "dyno". Cam break in went well with singled out springs.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215DSC01380.JPG
Rear view of stand and Mesquite wood instrument panel.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215DSC01381.JPG
Side view of engine.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215DSC01383.JPG
1850 vac. secondary carbs. Notice the stainless line to equalize vacuum and open carbs simultaniously.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215DSC01384.JPG
These carbs do not come dual feed. If you grind off the "crimped over area around the plugs, you can pull them out by drilling a diagonal hole in it to get a hold of it. Next tap the bowl 9/16 24 thread and you're done.

SSTSleakcraft
01-06-2005, 08:41 PM
Boat,......
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215Bottom_epoxy_primed_front_view.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215Nate_scoop_plumbed2.jpg
Scoop,...... See the resemblance? I made a replica of the hull in foam with the exception of height, (Just in case I wanted to be legal with flame arestors), glassed it, dug out the foam and presto!

OldFaithful Squirter
01-11-2005, 10:08 AM
Really cool on the complete build up of the Moby for the flattie! You will have to complete this post when the build up is installed and included pics of the entire boat! I just wanted to add that the RUN-IN stand is the bomb, and we will need to get a video of the Moby Build up Running on the stand to include in this post. This is the motor that Mid-Night Boat Wurks put together for my Warhawk Jet'Cha Later! Thanks to all you dudes!!!
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/509/913new_motor_with_zoomies.JPG
CHECK OUT THE VIDEO of the fine tuning!!! Just click on the multimedia logo to see the video. A very huge THANK YOU to these folks KB, NH, GC on a job well done!!
Video of Warhawk Jet'Cha Later's engine on RUN-IN stand at Mid-Night Boat Wurks (http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/509/913MVC-001W.MPG)
and if that does not work here is the link to it? http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/509/913MVC-001W.MPG

OldFaithful Squirter
01-13-2005, 06:48 AM
Her is some pics of the engine stand "dyno". Cam break in went well with singled out springs.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215DSC01380.JPG
Rear view of stand and Mesquite wood instrument panel.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215DSC01381.JPG
Side view of engine.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215DSC01383.JPG
1850 vac. secondary carbs. Notice the stainless line to equalize vacuum and open carbs simultaniously.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/215DSC01384.JPG
These carbs do not come dual feed. If you grind off the "crimped over area around the plugs, you can pull them out by drilling a diagonal hole in it to get a hold of it. Next tap the bowl 9/16 24 thread and you're done.
CHECK OUT THE VIDEO OF NATEDOGS 455 BUILD UP RUNNING ON THE RUN-IN STAND click on this attachment for the videovideo clip (http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/509/913Natedogs_Moby_alive_on_run_stand.MPG)

jim@pj
01-14-2005, 11:54 PM
Very nicely done. Should be a runner. Jim ;)

OldFaithful Squirter
01-17-2005, 12:16 PM
Keep an eye out for his next thread, the pump build up on this Mandella Flat Bottom jet drive!! The entire boat is quite impressive and has been complete from ground up restored to a real head turner! He actually bought this boat at a flea market for a song and has transformed it to better than new conditions. We did some searching the web long and hard and found that the boat was custom built by Mandella for Amos Pasquiletti out in Pheniox! So keep your eyes out for his next post of the retro-rebuild of the Berkeley pump! Keep it up SSTSleakcraft aka Nate Dog!!!!

OldFaithful Squirter
01-18-2005, 02:35 PM
KEEP UP WITH THIS COMPLETE BUILD UP FROM 455 GUYS ENGINE BUILDUP AND NEXT TO THE PUMP ON THIS REALLY SPECIAL "NOT TO MANY MANDELLA FLAT BOTTOM JETS IN THE WORLD" - THE PUMP BUILD UP IS ALSO ON THE POST UNDER THIS LINK!
Pump Build up on the Mandella Flat Bottom Jet- posted by SSTSleakcraft (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68502)
Really Great Job Well Done!

Liberator TJ1984
08-29-2005, 01:02 PM
Bump

Taylorman
12-18-2005, 06:23 AM
How much power did this motor make?

Taylorman
12-18-2005, 06:23 AM
I missed a few pics during assembly like double drilling the crank on 2 and 4 mains, pouring the alloy into the heads, doing the oil return on heads and block, blueprinting the oil pump and other misc. stuff but here it is.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151208.jpg
Restrictors in block and bearings drilled and slotted
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2151209.jpg
Polished beams, ARP bolts, .040 TRW's and balanced.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2151210.jpg
Rods notched on big end.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151213.jpg
Mains studded, rear cap ported.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151225.jpg
Nodular iron crank, .020, .020, Cloyes timing set.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151240.jpg
Mondello pump and P/U reclearanced to .0025 end play, factory baffle.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/506/2151214.jpg
Degreeing Clay Smith solid(258@.050, 560 w/1.6 rocker) at 105 CL.
I will have to do heads in a separate posting.
You don't have a copy of the dyno sheet do you? I'd love to see how much power this motor makes and at what RPM.

396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
12-19-2005, 05:35 PM
Bump for ideas for the newbies;) Great thread...

1899
12-22-2005, 07:01 PM
Ok, this may have already been covered, but what kind of cam did you use on this?

1975sleekcraft
12-24-2005, 08:55 PM
bump

Liberator TJ1984
05-14-2007, 02:59 PM
for the guy with the 455 oiling problems :D

southwind racer
05-15-2007, 07:40 AM
for the guy with the 455 oiling problems :D
word...

Boostedballs
09-29-2007, 06:34 PM
What's the deal with grooves on the rods? Is this a fix for oldsmobubble oiling problems? Just curious. Good looking motor. Budlight :idea:
This concept would have saved my engine if I had known about it before I dropped the engine in the boat. The grooves let the oil escape the rod bearings after they lube the bearing and helps the bearings cool by allowing more oil flow.

matt1840
10-12-2007, 06:18 PM
were both the restricted cam berrings and main restricters used on this motor? What compression are you running?