new to jets

[Tresguey]

im new to jets. i picked up a 76 sanger with a 454 in it. i took it out to the lake the first time drove it for about 20 min checked the oil and there was oil in it. so i changed the head and intake gaskets. ran it on the water hose and ran good. took it to the lake and ran it for a while and damn water in the oil again. so i shaved the heads and ahd them checked for cracks all good. now this guy is telling me that i may have too much water pressure going into the water jackets from the jet pump. i noticed a water valve coming from the pump. how do i know if there is too much presure. this is hell because i have to change out 18 quarts of oil every time i do this. and it is hell trying to get it all out. the boat runs bad ass but im just need to get this water problem fixed. any help will be great.

[Devilman]

There are a few different explanations as to water getting in your oil. Try doing a search here in the forums for 'water in the oil' or something like that. You'd be surprised how much that has been discussed on here. That along with the water pressure situation, is fairly common from what I've seen. I'm pretty new to jets myself, but I've gotten a lot of good info here on the boards and kinda helped myself along the way. Lots of good people here, though, you'll see :cool:

[Mighty Thor]

There are several discussions dealing with pressure relief valves that you should read. Also contact Duane at HTP or the crew at Rex they can help with parts and recomendations

[deltarat]

I had a problem on my old Tahiti where the water injection into me bassetts would let water drip in to my engine through the exhaust port on the heads. I fixed that problem with a presure switch that would cut the water off when pressure from the engine would drop right before I turned off the motor.

[superdave013]

tell us about your exhaust. Are they water injected headers or are they water jacketed logs / headers.

[deltarat]

Mine.........on this boat they are logs on my old boat they were headers

[Tresguey]

i have water injected bassets. and i do have a control valve on them. and i tuned them to barely fog at idle. thas what i was told to do anyways.

[superdave013]

i have water injected bassets. and i do have a control valve on them. and i tuned them to barely fog at idle. thas what i was told to do anyways.
DING DING!!!
They need to be dry at idle. You are getting water in your heads. Your exhaust valves hate you too. lol

[Heatseeker]

To cure the drippy pipe syndrome, try one of these:
Banderlog Valve (http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/waterInjection.html)

[MoJetBoPar]

You need a pressure relief valve as mentioned. Psi outta the pump reaches as high as 300 psi, alot more than the 14-18 that most engines see.

[Tresguey]

i looked at the site. and my only question is will this regulate the pressure going to the engine. and at the same time cut the pressure to my headers as well? it looked like it will only control water to the headers. unless im wrong. and if it is only to the headers can i adjust it from my valvle that adjusts the water to the headers or is it that everyone is useing this type of setup? i wouldnt mind buying this if it would be a no worries system for both. but if i could adjust it with the two valves i think it may be less of a headache. since the valve is an electronic part. sorry i am new to this so i may not be thinking in the correct direction. thanks all.

[Taylorman]

Put a pressure gauge on your intake to see what the pressure is before you go through all that trouble. You can find a pressure gauge with a 1/4" NPT threads on the bottom and mount it on the front of your intake in one of the two 1/2" NPT holes used for temp sensor. You will have to get a reducer bushing. Check out an industrial supply store such as grainger for the gauge and any hardware store should have the reducer. Do this first. If your pressure is to high, above say 20 psi at wot, then address the problem.
How is your plumbing set up now? Do you have one dump line or two? Where do you feed your headers from? Tell us what you have now so we can help you fix the problem. In my opinion you dont need a pressure relief valve if you have two dump lines. I have all 1/2 lines for my plumbing with two dump lines and my block pressure never gets above 15psi.

[squirt]

Install a gauge, it can only help to know what pressure you are running. It is very inexpensive to do and worth while.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/284gauge2-med.JPG
The Banderlog valve has been a great thing for me. Been running one for almost 3 years without any problems. Always seemed to have problems with adjusting the headers with the basset T -valve. I covered mine and the MSD also cause I didn't want them to get wet and like the way it looks.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/284IMG01.png

[superdave013]

The B Valve is great and the pressure regulator are a good idea too.
Do you have to have them? Well, there are 1,000's of jet boats running just fine with out them.
LV Jetboy and Flatbroke have a nice diagram on how a jet boat should be plumbed. Maybe they will hop on this thread and post it. Or you could PM one of them.
Do you have the basset t valve?
And I agree with squirt, knowing what the pressure in the block is nice to know. squirt, I like that sano temp sending set up!!

[Jake W2]

Sounds like he is not running the Bassett T valve with the spring ball shut off.
Jake

[Tresguey]

this is how my plumbing goes. i have a line that comes out of my pump that has a water spicket type of valve. from there it t's off to another line that feeds the headers one goes to the block. the one that goes to the headers has another ball valve. that is the one where i was told to have it barely fog at idle. well from this thread i have learned that it shouldn't fog at idle. from what i understand. and i do have a MSD box that i was wondering if i should encase so it wont get water on or in it. and i seen also on this thread that 1000's run manual valves. in all honestly is it worth it to run manual or should i just use this electrical valve. my next question is will it control the water presure to the block or only the headers. if it is only to the headers do i need a different one or another for the block? sorry for all the qeustions im just trying to get a feel of how this stuff actualy runs the best.

[bp]

my line comes from the pump, through a regulator, splits, one line to engine, one line for headers.
the line to headers runs up under my seat through a manual ball valve, back to the basset T, then to the header spray bars, and to the headers. i have 0.045 inserts in the headers, which must be fabricated by brazing and drilling.
the manual ball valve is not used to "throttle" the amount of water to the headers, it's only used for on/off.
the basset T will work just fine as long as it's given a little pm from time to time, just like everything else on the boat.

[Squirtcha?]

Bassett header plumbing diagram.
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/diagramjet.gif

[JESSE]

the pluming on my boat came in from the pump to a gate valve to a tee the from the tee to the water pump holes in the block then out of the thermastate housing which has two fitings one went out of the boat the other went to a ball valve then to a bassett tee then one line too each header. I would just turn off the ball valve at idle to stop the water from geting in the oil worked fine just don't forget to turn off the ball valve at idle or the water will be back in the oil. this is the cheapest way to fix it

[jim@pj]

Check my web site at www.performancejet.com and click on the tech talk link. It should answer some of your questions. Hope it helps Jim

[steelcomp]

im new to jets. i picked up a 76 sanger with a 454 in it. i took it out to the lake the first time drove it for about 20 min checked the oil and there was oil in it. so i changed the head and intake gaskets. ran it on the water hose and ran good. took it to the lake and ran it for a while and damn water in the oil again. so i shaved the heads and ahd them checked for cracks all good. now this guy is telling me that i may have too much water pressure going into the water jackets from the jet pump. i noticed a water valve coming from the pump. how do i know if there is too much presure. this is hell because i have to change out 18 quarts of oil every time i do this. and it is hell trying to get it all out. the boat runs bad ass but im just need to get this water problem fixed. any help will be great.
18 qts of oil??? :confused:

[Ken F]

Tresguey
I don't think your question has really been answered as of yet.
<from what i understand. and i do have a MSD box that i was wondering if i should encase so it wont get water on or in it. and i seen also on this thread that 1000's run manual valves. in all honestly is it worth it to run manual or should i just use this electrical valve. my next question is will it control the water presure to the block or only the headers. if it is only to the headers do i need a different one or another for the block? sorry for all the qeustions im just trying to get a feel of how this stuff actualy runs the best.>
No, the banderlog valve will not control the block pressure. It is to control water to your headers. To control your block pressure you will need a pressure valve which has a dump line overboard to get rid of excess pressure. A really good one that I can attest to and seems reasonably priced can be found at www.hi-techperformance.com
There are several old-school ways of controling your pressure, and it can be done with manual valves but requires quite a bit of fine tuning, and near constant screwing with. With one of the above valves, it's damn-near plug and play.
I've not run a banderlog valve for my headers, I'm still using the bassett valve like you have, so can't comment on that one.
hope this helps, and good luck with your new boat! Welcome to a great hobby! You will find lots of good info here, and many knowlegeable people willing to share pearls of wisdom!!! lol
Ken F

[Fogged Gullwing]

Ken,
How's it going buddy? Hope all is well in the heartland. I was in wichita for a day or two but did not get a chance to go to Duanes. How's that bad ass cheyene of yours doin anything over the winter to it? Hopefully you and I will make that nor cal thing this next year!!!
Later BK

[LakesOnly]

Bassett header plumbing diagram.
http://jetboat.homestead.com/files/diagramjet.gif
I run a set-up damn-near identical to this. Your headers should fog at 1500-2000 rpm. You ball valve(s) to your headers will not allow this capability without ongoing tinkering.
A good way to set the point at where the header T-valve fogs the headers (in the above drawing & when plumbed as in the above drawing) is to go to the middle of the lake when fully warmed up and have sombody hold the rpms at 1500-2000 rpm. Then slowly begine closing the gate valve on the dump line. Stop closing the gate valve where pressure has built up enough in the dump line to cause the backed up water to blow the header T-valve and fog the headers.
You may need to play with both intake and dump line gate valves to get things balanced out correctly. But when you do get to this point, it is likely that your block water pressure is also acceptable, as the T-valve's pressure relief spring is pretty much in the ballpark for this application.
LO

[Ken F]

Hey BK
Doing good out this way...
Cheyenne is going to get some new blueThunder "B" heads next week, and a new set of Chebby headers.
Been really thinking about building a stroker out of my spare engine.
I'm so close to 100...just gotta get there ya know? lol I'm hoping the heads will get it over the hump, then it's on to the next quest.....right? This chit is worse then drugs ever thought about being!!!
I think I'm going to have to stop spending money on the boat and buy myself a new tow vehicle.....the old 67 F100 SNB just doesn't seem like the vehicle to tow that far with! lol
Ken