Rail Kits for BBC

[Not Twice]

Who sells rail kits for BBC? I have looked at Rex, Eddie Marine and CP but do not see any rail kits. Currently have a 3 point mounting system and looking for a rail kit.

[Johnwithjm]

Who sells rail kits for BBC? I have looked at Rex, Eddie Marine and CP but do not see any rail kits. Currently have a 3 point mounting system and looking for a rail kit.
Try Lightning or give Tom Papp a call 951-734-4606 he can get you one.

[flat broke]

You can find more info on Lightning stuff here http://www.boatheaders.com/index.htm
Chris

[ruggs]

Contact Duane at Hi-Tech Performance.....375.00............ruggs

[MudPumper]

Cyclone here on the boards had one for sale a while back dont know if it sold or not. It's a nice one and will save you some coin.

[retromek]

Make your own. Nothin else to do. It's raining......

[Duane HTP]

http://www.hi-techperformance.com/Minitures/Mtr_Mt_and_Rail_Kit_3921.jpg
HTP $375.00.

[BrendellaJet]

In Duanes pic-I know what 6 of the 8 holes are for, what about the other two?

[Oldsquirt]

In Duanes pic-I know what 6 of the 8 holes are for, what about the other two?
If you are referring to the rear mount, the 6 smaller holes are for the mounting bolts. The 2 larger holes are for the locating dowels.

[BrendellaJet]

Thanks!

[revndave]

lightnings kit are good

[TRG]

I believe that Tom Papp racing makes them as well,.. i'd give them a call, those guys are easy to deal with too!
they are in Corona 951-734-4606
Todd

[78Southwind]

:coffeycup

[wet77]

http://www.hi-techperformance.com/Minitures/Mtr_Mt_and_Rail_Kit_3921.jpg
HTP $375.00.
Bought mine for my eliminator from Duane @ HTP
Great product :D

[ChetCapoli]

Bought mine for my eliminator from Duane @ HTP
Great product :D
From the pic there looks like alot of money to me....a couple pieces of 2 inch angle cut up and a few pieces of 1/4 inch plate cut out of a template.......$150 bucks worth of material at a sheet metal house and 4 or 5 hrs time tops....$375.00?? I dont think so. :D
Might as well spend the $650 for a powercoated/polished good one with all the curves and holes and bells and wistles.....looks nicer in the end rather than backyard chopshop like that one is. You bolt in and go!
CHET

[bakerjet]

this place fixed my buddy right up with a rail kit
1-805-466-4719 www.jetboatperformance.com

[wsuwrhr]

From the pic there looks like alot of money to me....a couple pieces of 2 inch angle cut up and a few pieces of 1/4 inch plate cut out of a template.......$150 bucks worth of material at a sheet metal house and 4 or 5 hrs time tops....$375.00?? I dont think so. :D
Might as well spend the $650 for a powercoated/polished good one with all the curves and holes and bells and wistles.....looks nicer in the end rather than backyard chopshop like that one is. You bolt in and go!
CHET
For what you get 375 is a DEAL. Have you priced aluminum lately? His price has been the same for as long as I have seen it posted. He isn't making a living selling rail kits.
Where you gonna get a $650 polished, powdercoated, and I presume you are talking about a machined set of rails?
Brian

[bakerjet]

For what you get 375 is a DEAL. Have you priced aluminum lately? His price has been the same for as long as I have seen it posted. He isn't making a living selling rail kits.
Where you gonna get a $650 polished, powdercoated, and I presume you are talking about a machined set of rails?
Brian
375 is a heck of a deal! hmmm :cool:

[wet77]

From the pic there looks like alot of money to me....a couple pieces of 2 inch angle cut up and a few pieces of 1/4 inch plate cut out of a template.......$150 bucks worth of material at a sheet metal house and 4 or 5 hrs time tops....$375.00?? I dont think so. :D
Might as well spend the $650 for a powercoated/polished good one with all the curves and holes and bells and wistles.....looks nicer in the end rather than backyard chopshop like that one is. You bolt in and go!
CHET
Next time I buy parts I will give you a call maybe you can loan me the extra $275 for the other kit :idea:
P.S. you still have all the same work to mount it to the boat :supp:

[BrendellaJet]

From the pic there looks like alot of money to me....a couple pieces of 2 inch angle cut up and a few pieces of 1/4 inch plate cut out of a template.......$150 bucks worth of material at a sheet metal house and 4 or 5 hrs time tops....$375.00?? I dont think so. :D
Might as well spend the $650 for a powercoated/polished good one with all the curves and holes and bells and wistles.....looks nicer in the end rather than backyard chopshop like that one is. You bolt in and go!
CHET
No rail kit is ever just bolt in and go, unless you pay someone to set it up for you before hand.
Im making my own rail kit, and while Im no pro, It has turned out very nice so far. I have lots of time into it, getting it set up to locate the motor properly.

[ChetCapoli]

Where you gonna get a $650 polished, powdercoated, and I presume you are talking about a machined set of rails?
Brian
geez i havent priced aluminum at all...did it really go up??? When i was getting gas last week at the old country dairy up here in town bob the blacksmith said nothing about it?? LMAO!! If you going to go to a retail metal place your gonna pay the shot but if you go to an actual commercial outlet and cut thru all the BS, the price isnt that bad. Get actual "drops" and it's even cheaper. Your joe fabricator arent ya brian?? I'm sure you knew that. :rolleyes:
What difference does it make where you can get one for that...there only two maybe three places you people shop so it just goes on deaf ears...you people need to wake up and shop around!
Whats jim brock or tom papp sell them for anyone know?
CHET

[Taylorman]

geez i havent priced aluminum at all...did it really go up??? When i was getting gas last week at the old country dairy up here in town bob the blacksmith said nothing about it?? LMAO!! If you going to go to a retail metal place your gonna pay the shot but if you go to an actual commercial outlet and cut thru all the BS, the price isnt that bad. Get actual "drops" and it's even cheaper. Your joe fabricator arent ya brian?? I'm sure you knew that. :rolleyes:
What difference does it make where you can get one for that...there only two maybe three places you people shop so it just goes on deaf ears...you people need to wake up and shop around!
Whats jim brock or tom papp sell them for anyone know?
CHET
Chet, did you fail english in school cause your writing does not make one bit of sense. Now that we've established that, if you pay any attention to anything, you would know that the price of many metals have gone up drastically. This affects everything made of these metals. You have got to be one of the cheapest dudes in the world. Not everyone is a master fabricator like you nor do they want to be to make their own rail kit. Maybe they don't have time or the tools to do it. Maybe their time is worth more than $375. Some people have lives and not as much spare time as you to sit around and make a rail kit to save a few bucks. How much does your connection you have charge for a rail kit? The connection that you speak of so often that has diverters for so cheap. Hey by the way, i thought you had died. Did you rise from the dead? Go back to where you came from.

[superdave013]

geez i havent priced aluminum at all...did it really go up??? When i was getting gas last week at the old country dairy up here in town bob the blacksmith said nothing about it?? LMAO!! If you going to go to a retail metal place your gonna pay the shot but if you go to an actual commercial outlet and cut thru all the BS, the price isnt that bad. Get actual "drops" and it's even cheaper. Your joe fabricator arent ya brian?? I'm sure you knew that. :rolleyes:
What difference does it make where you can get one for that...there only two maybe three places you people shop so it just goes on deaf ears...you people need to wake up and shop around!
Whats jim brock or tom papp sell them for anyone know?
CHET
Chet, what do you pay per pound for 6061 plate and flat stock?

[Taylorman]

Lightning kits are $850.
Dwayne, does your kit come with a flywheel cover and driveline cover?

[ARS Marine inc.east]

Lightining's Rail KITS are Premo Pieces
You Want Nice Stuff your Gona Pay more
I agree $850.00 Is quiet expensive
But all pieces are Polished "Most Holes" are drilled along with Swiss cheese holes & Includes Bell housing cover and Drive shaft cover
BUT Does not include Pump Brace's like hi-tech's

[Duane HTP]

a couple pieces of 2 inch angle cut up and a few pieces of 1/4 inch plate cut out of a template.......
As ALWAYS, Chit doesn't have a clue what he is talking about.
Out motor plates are 3/8" 6061T. He's always talking about something which he doesn't have a clue about. That's his standard.
We have them available polished also. Costs More. So that leaves Chit out!
Taylorman, no, they are not priced with bellhousing and driveline covers. We have them available, but there are several variations of what you might want to use, so the pricing will vary.

[schiada96]

Lightining's Rail KITS are Premo Pieces
You Want Nice Stuff your Gona Pay more
I agree $850.00 Is quiet expensive
But all pieces are Polished "Most Holes" are drilled along with Swiss cheese holes & Includes Bell housing cover and Drive shaft cover
BUT Does not include Pump Brace's like hi-tech's
I make a lot of stuff for a lot of people and your price is not bad. Some don't realize the effort to make parts.

[flat broke]

Chet,
You're full of crap on this one. As SD asked, do you know how much scrap 6061 goes for right now? If you don't have a mill, even if you do, $375 isn't bad for what you get with Duanes kit. It would give you a good canvas to start with, from which you could make some changes/accents and have a nice rail kit with a little time invested. I have a mill, bandsaw and all the tooling to make what Duane is selling. By the time I bought all the material, I'd only be $175 ahead, and thats not counting my time to do the work. I don't know how much you make an hour, but it wouldn't take very long for me to burn through that $175 if I was paying for my own time. The only thing I would change about Duane's kit is that I'd go to a pillow block style mounting foot instead of angle and cut out a clearance hole for my mechanical fuel pump. The billet to cut 4 feet out of would cost another $30-40, and the labor time would jump a bit too, so I can see why he uses the angle instead.
You have no concept of what materials cost, you have no concept of economics ( Duane isn't in business to give people his time at cost), and as usual, your rhetoric is tired and ill placed. You failed to make a valid point or add anything of interest and as such, have once again solidified your "troll" status.
Just once try answering someones question, or giving a constructive comment. All you do is come on to play the devils advocate in situations where its just not warranted. I challenge you to post up something worthwhile that doesn't revolve around talking crap about how much something costs, or about shop x has a bigger attitude than shop y.
Chris

[Taylorman]

Who is this one made by?
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/45motorinboat-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/45billetmsdmount-med.JPG

[78Southwind]

Doses anyone have one of these kits installed in their boat? If so put up some pictures of the finished product. Also what would it cost to get one of these powder coated?
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9143
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/Minitures/Mtr_Mt_and_Rail_Kit_3921.jpg

[ChetCapoli]

Chet,
You're full of crap on this one. As SD asked, do you know how much scrap 6061 goes for right now?
you should just change your name to flapper broke cuz your doing alot of "flappin" in the breeze here bud....have you priced 6061 at a steelhouse lately??? There quite a few "old schoolers" out there that have quite the inventory if your thirfty and can buy some "drops" they have around. You already knew that though huh? :D
If you don't have a mill, even if you do, $375 isn't bad for what you get
I NEVER said it was a ripoff...i just stated it wasnt as good a DEAL as the "promotors" peanut gallery is cheerleading about! Get it right will ya??
It would give you a good canvas to start with, from which you could make some changes/accents and have a nice rail kit with a little time invested.
Little time invested??? Your basically starting from scratch with that kit to make it "nice" with all the curves and bells and whistles and such. Using pieces of angle instead of the real "pillow" blocks is not what i would call a nice approach....more like cobjob! For what the pillows cost...why would ya?? For what material is there...if you have to fabricate the rest of the way....WHY NOT START FROM SCRATCH and buy the materials yourself for $120.00 to $135.00???? WTF is wrong with you? There are sheetmetal guys out there that would bend over backwards and give you a big kiss for $200.00 to make whats in that picture and have $135.00 in materials to boot....WTF??? WAKE UP!!
I have a mill, bandsaw and all the tooling to make what Duane is selling. By the time I bought all the material, I'd only be $175 ahead, and thats not counting my time to do the work. I don't know how much you make an hour, but it wouldn't take very long for me to burn through that $175 if I was paying for my own time.
sounds like your pricey...maybe thats why your "FLAT BROKE" :D
The only thing I would change about Duane's kit is that I'd go to a pillow block style mounting foot instead of angle and cut out a clearance hole for my mechanical fuel pump.
agreed! This is the ONLY thing though. :argue:
The billet to cut 4 feet out of would cost another $30-40, and the labor time would jump a bit too, so I can see why he uses the angle instead.
Thats why your buy enough in quantity so you dont buy again later and pay the shot....again WTF?
You have no concept of what materials cost, you have no concept of economics ( Duane isn't in business to give people his time at cost), and as usual, your rhetoric is tired and ill placed. You failed to make a valid point or add anything of interest and as such, have once again solidified your "troll" status.
Again...WAKE THE F$^% UP! concept of what materials cost.....you can make TWO....read again TWO rail kits for that price if you buy the shit your self and being YOU have a mill, lathe and bandsaw.....why wouldnt ya??? again and again i say...WTF??
Here's a little "insight" for you flapperbroke....
the local steelshop: 30'x48'x1/4 6061 flat plate=$140.00
2'x2'x1/4'x25ft 6061 angle=$80.00
2'x1/4x12ft bar=$27.50
OPTIONAL 3/8ths 24'x40' flat plate=$165.00
add that up now bud and whatcha got??? These are "drop" prices remember.... Keep in mind you can make TWO...count them TWO rail kits with that much material....again i say WTF??? WAKE UP! Thats just calling on the phone and not going there to get even better deals in the "miscellaneous" scrap pile.... You want some facts....there they are...black and white. :)
Just once try answering someones question, or giving a constructive comment. All you do is come on to play the devils advocate in situations where its just not warranted. I challenge you to post up something worthwhile that doesn't revolve around talking crap about how much something costs, or about shop x has a bigger attitude than shop y.
Chris
Geez flapper...i thought i just did? TO the POINT and FACT! Again what happened to the good old days with old HB and the cheerleader club?? Seems the promotor and the support group has taken over here....now THAT if anything is not WARRANTED. You wonder why no other "gurus" come here like they used to to offer "insight"??? BINGO! Who would want to with this kind of "cheerleader" BS eh??? for the last time....WAKE UP! Better yet take this quote from one of your fellowmen....
Maybe you should try advertising then instead of jumping on another guys thread spamming your own product.
seems to be alot of that going around here lately......
CHET

[TRG]

damn! chet must not have much going on today!....come to think of it,...when does he ever have anything going on, besides trashing others posts! lol
have you EVER started a thread chet??
your pal Tizzodd :mix:

[Duane HTP]

The only thing I would change about Duane's kit is that I'd go to a pillow block style mounting foot instead of angle and cut out a clearance hole for my mechanical fuel pump.
I need to update my picture. We do now furnish pillow blocks with the kits. We will also cut out, (at no extra charge), for the fuel pump, but not many people buy them that way any more.
OPTIONAL 3/8ths 24'x40' flat plate=$165.00
Once AGAIN, Chit doesn't have a clue. The two motor mount plates and the two pump braces can NOT be cut out of a piece of aluminum that is only 24" x 40". The poor guy just DON'T GET IT!

[Heatseeker]

I keep hoping that by ignoring Chet, he will just go away.
Wishful thinking....

[wsuwrhr]

the local steelshop: 30'x48'x1/4 6061 flat plate=$140.00
2'x2'x1/4'x25ft 6061 angle=$80.00
2'x1/4x12ft bar=$27.50
OPTIONAL 3/8ths 24'x40' flat plate=$165.00
CHET
Fuc nut
With your ' and not ", are you talking inches or feet?
You have got to be kidding.
Brian

[Taylorman]

I keep hoping that by ignoring Chet, he will just go away.
Wishful thinking....
Don't count on it.
Hey chet, if your as good and resourceful as you say you are and you can build two rail kits for the price that Dwayne sells his for, why don't you go around to all these "old schoolers out there that have quite the inventory if your thirfty and can buy some "drops" they have around" and beg for some drops and go into business for yourself making and selling rail kits. I'll be your first customer. In fact i have, lets see 1/2 of 375 = $187.50 right here waiting for you. Its your for the first rail kit you make. Thats my offer. Oh, and it must have pillow blocks, which Dwayne offers also. Oh, it needs to fit a BBC. So whats you lead time. When your done call me, i'll send the money.

[Duane HTP]

[QUOTE]I keep hoping that by ignoring Chet, he will just go away.[/QUOTE
No, No! don't make him go away. He helps me advertise more than you can imagine. You see the Chit that he writes is so amusing, (stupid), that a lot of people read it just for the humor. Now, just becuse of Chit getting into this thread, everyone here now knows that we sell our kits with pillow blocks, that the plates are 3/8" material, and that we will cut out for the mechanical fuel pumps. He brought it to your attention for me.

[cyclone]

Who is this one made by?
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/45motorinboat-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/45billetmsdmount-med.JPG
That particular rail kit came with my boat. I can only assume that whoever rigged/re-rigged the boat when it was raced fabricated it. The mounting brackets for the ignition system were built by Riverdave last year.

[TIMINATOR]

Why a rail kit anyway? Seems like an elegant solution to a non-existent LAKE BOAT problem to me. Most of the lake boats I've seen have MAYBE 500 HP on a good day, why bother? ego thing? Desire to spend cash? At what hp level do you really NEED it? Is it a function of having a lesser quality boat? or a band aid for rotted out or underdesigned stringers? Is my Daytona 21 gonna fall apart at 700+ hp? or will it only fail at the 1000hp N2O level? (which I have been running for almost 2 years now). Incidently... its a 3 point mount! and NO PROBLEMS. OK. This is the place where the gurus jump in and try to sell their stuff..... convince me.... TIMINATOR

[superdave013]

[QUOTE]I keep hoping that by ignoring Chet, he will just go away.[/QUOTE
No, No! don't make him go away. He helps me advertise more than you can imagine. You see the Chit that he writes is so amusing, (stupid), that a lot of people read it just for the humor. Now, just becuse of Chit getting into this thread, everyone here now knows that we sell our kits with pillow blocks, that the plates are 3/8" material, and that we will cut out for the mechanical fuel pumps. He brought it to your attention for me.
hahahahaha I bet that post right there REALLLLLY get's under ol' Chet's skin.
Nice work
Chet, no soup for you!! :cool:

[ARS Marine inc.east]

Why a rail kit anyway? Seems like an elegant solution to a non-existent LAKE BOAT problem to me. Most of the lake boats I've seen have MAYBE 500 HP on a good day, why bother? ego thing? Desire to spend cash? At what hp level do you really NEED it? Is it a function of having a lesser quality boat? or a band aid for rotted out or underdesigned stringers? Is my Daytona 21 gonna fall apart at 700+ hp? or will it only fail at the 1000hp N2O level? (which I have been running for almost 2 years now). Incidently... its a 3 point mount! and NO PROBLEMS. OK. This is the place where the gurus jump in and try to sell their stuff..... convince me.... TIMINATOR
OK I'LL tell you my Experiance with Rail Kits
My Daytona had 4Point mounts directley to the stringers with 800 HP
Trying to experiment with different Center of Gravity, I found It Most Useful
to convert over to Rail Mounts just for simplicty of moving the Center of Gravity around, And We also relized that after the Rail Kit was Installed stress cracks on the Keel had not come Back, Reason for it the Load was spread over a Greater Distance.
We also have a EARL Smith Mirage tunnel That the guy Ran with 800HP in KDBA for BOOKOO Years With for point mounts But he also Ran in Flat water
This Spring we will be Running a 1375HP "ON MOTOR" in the Same Boat on EXTREMELEY RUFF water We are puttint a Rail Kit in Just in case we Spin the boat we don't Loose the motor .

[TIMINATOR]

OK then.... but I have no keel cracks, and I don't plan on moving my center of gravity, I guess I will just not bother with it. I'll leave it to the race guys and fast guys then....... P.S. I also noticed that the 1000HP+ blown I.O.s don't have rail kits either..... and they run 100+, and are LAKE BOATS. I await more wisdom.... TIMINATOR

[Duane HTP]

Timinator, Some other reasons one might want to run a rail kit is so that they can run a removable Lenco Driveshaft or a Jetaway. Or they may have set their pump back for better performance and the engine no longer clears the overhang of the transom. Also, on some engines, the rails make it easier to run the oil pan that came on the engine without buying a $500.00 jet pan. Hope that helps.

[ARS Marine inc.east]

I guess you'r Right ALL we do is RACE the thing HARD
Don't Get me Wrong we still want the Boat to Flex ,We don't want to loose a Hull Or a Driver , Because the boat Hooks on a Funny wave and ripps the bottom out at 130mph.

[TIMINATOR]

Thanks for the info, I guess I'm OK on my deal... I did say lake boat didn't I? TIMINATOR

[wsuwrhr]

I like the look of a rail kit, and I own a machine shop.
What else would I do in my free time?
Brian

[steelcomp]

I made my own rail kit, motor plates, pump brace, etc, and I've been fabricating for 20+ yrs., and this was a pretty intense project. Chet, AS USUAL, you don't know the FIRST thing you're talking about. You think having the shapes cut out for you is no big deal?? Maybe so, (actually it is, but we'll give you that one for argument's sake) but let me ask you this, smart guy. Where are you going to get the hole layout for the back of the block? Transfer punch from a bell housing?
Here's yer sign! (I'm stupid!!)
The bolt holes are one thing, but the two block dowel holes are a different story. Lets see. Do you even know where to get a drill the right size for them? How 'bout the correct reamer? Those are close tolerance holes, and are what hold the entire weight and torque of the motor. What, you think you're going to do this with a ruler? Maybe a tape measure?? Can you even read a pair of calipers? Those two holes, to do their job correctly, need to be located 15.380" apart +/- .002, and need to be .6185-.6200 to be the right size. That's a factory tolerance of .0015". (Is that a drill you have in your tool box?) They need to be perpendicular and parallel to the bolt hole pattern as well. Do you know what the vertical distance from the C/L of the crank to the C/L of the dowel holes is? (2.320" for those of you who want to know) Then how the f uck are you going to know where your motor is sitting or weather it lines up with your pump shaft or not?? Do you know anything about laying out bolt hole patterns? Words like radial or radius, or true position? Naw, just get a drill and start drillin. If you miss, just drill a bigger hole, it'll fit!! How 'bout those pump braces? Think you can just eyeball one of those?
You're the classic back seat driver, Chet. The first one to say how easy something is, and knock a guy for putting a price on his good work, but probably never in your life even tried to do something like it. If you had, you'd respect the time it takes to come up with the design alone on something like that, not to mention actually doing it. Why don't you makae a rail kit and show us how good it comes out? Show us that expertise from which you can be so critical.
BTW...I didn't have access to a machine shop. I used calipers, a machinist's rule, blue layout dye and a sharp scribe. It took me three nights just to lay out my pieces and ctr. punch my holes. I'm proud to say, that when I sllid my plate on the back of my motor, it was only off by a few thou, and with a little file work on the dowel holes, it slipped right on. The rest took me weeks, as I cut my motor plates using a sabre saw and files, sanding drums and discs on my die grinders, and a lot of sanding blocks to finish the edges, right down to 600 grit. No machined finished edges for me to work with. Those of you that have seen my boat know how it came out. Another thing is that if you're going to polish your stuff, you need to start with as clean and scratch-free material as you can. Drops, if you can get them big enough, have usually been thrown around a lot, and are full of dings and deep scratches. It can be done by hand, but even with a mill and a way to measure X and Y, you have to know the numbers. You have to know how to use a mill. You have to know something besides opening up that big sore under your nose and spewing a bunch of crap, and THAT, you are real good at! I don't know much about your ability, but from your complete lack of resoect for the time it takes to do something like a rail kit and motor plates, I'd say you're just another jealous spectator.
http://www.***boat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9177&stc=1

[steelcomp]

OK then.... but I have no keel cracks, and I don't plan on moving my center of gravity, I guess I will just not bother with it. I'll leave it to the race guys and fast guys then....... P.S. I also noticed that the 1000HP+ blown I.O.s don't have rail kits either..... and they run 100+, and are LAKE BOATS. I await more wisdom.... TIMINATOR
The in/outs, depending on the set up, have the tranny/ outdrive supporting the back of the motor as the rear mount (which is the one that does all the work) so they really don't need a rail kit.

[MudPumper]

Why a rail kit anyway? Seems like an elegant solution to a non-existent LAKE BOAT problem to me. Most of the lake boats I've seen have MAYBE 500 HP on a good day, why bother? ego thing? Desire to spend cash? At what hp level do you really NEED it? Is it a function of having a lesser quality boat? or a band aid for rotted out or underdesigned stringers? Is my Daytona 21 gonna fall apart at 700+ hp? or will it only fail at the 1000hp N2O level? (which I have been running for almost 2 years now). Incidently... its a 3 point mount! and NO PROBLEMS. OK. This is the place where the gurus jump in and try to sell their stuff..... convince me.... TIMINATOR
Timinator, this is why I switched to a rail kit. Was a points mount system in my 18' lake jet. Hit one bad roller and the motor was sitting on the bottom of the boat. It was a Glenwood motor mount with one season on it. Oh yeah and I only run 500hp in my lake jet. The broken bolt was in the bottom hole that did not bust through. The bolt that was in the hole where the mount broke was badly bent.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Motor_Mount2-med.JPG
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Motor_Mount1-med.JPG
Just back from powder coat.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Rail6_Fresh_Powder-med.JPG

[Jake W2]

Steel I hate to say this but you are about to scare the hell out of some one that wants to make their own rail kit it does not take a machinest to do it.
I made mine my self with some pattrens I browed from Roger that I altered.And the pump brace was the easiest thing to make.Just remember when making these things a boat it not square or a perfect measure from one thing to another.
I got my 3/8 alum 6T whetever at a place that sells it by the foot and it wasent cheap.Bought the pillow blocks from HTP 6 of them and my alum angle runs from the back of the boat to where the front seats will bolt.I am sure my shit is not dead nuts but I will bet I will never have a problem with it.
I have more in my kit than Duanes sells his for but like I said mine runs from the front to the back(the angle).
The only reason I posted on this subject is because I am sure there are alot of people that take pride in doing things their selfs as I do.Mine was done with a drill press or hand drill gun,and gigsaw.It might not be perfect but at least I can say I did it and it be the truth.
Any one can nitpick at shit but not all can do them.
This is not ment to piss anyone off just my thoughts.I will post up a pic of the back mount with the motor sitting in the boat.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2006benggul.jpg This pic is of the rough mount that has not been cleaned up or polished oyes this is a 460 Ford mount.
Jake

[Jake W2]

Here is the front mount so far it all so is not cleaned up or polished it 3/8 all so.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2006FTmt.jpg
I am going to lighten it up some more also.
Jake

[HoffmanEagleMarine]

Hey Jake, How far did you plan to mount the motor from the transom? I'm doing mine also right now. Is there is a "magic number" for these Gullwings? Doug

[steelcomp]

Steel I hate to say this but you are about to scare the hell out of some one that wants to make their own rail kit it does not take a machinest to do it.
I made mine my self with some pattrens I browed from Roger that I altered.And the pump brace was the easiest thing to make.Just remember when making these things a boat it not square or a perfect measure from one thing to another.
I got my 3/8 alum 6T whetever at a place that sells it by the foot and it wasent cheap.Bought the pillow blocks from HTP 6 of them and my alum angle runs from the back of the boat to where the front seats will bolt.I am sure my shit is not dead nuts but I will bet I will never have a problem with it.
I have more in my kit than Duanes sells his for but like I said mine runs from the front to the back(the angle).
The only reason I posted on this subject is because I am sure there are alot of people that take pride in doing things their selfs as I do.Mine was done with a drill press or hand drill gun,and gigsaw.It might not be perfect but at least I can say I did it and it be the truth.
Any one can nitpick at shit but not all can do them.
This is not ment to piss anyone off just my thoughts.I will post up a pic of the back mount with the motor sitting in the boat.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2006benggul.jpg This pic is of the rough mount that has not been cleaned up or polished oyes this is a 460 Ford mount.
Jake
I know, Jake...I guess I was just trying to make a point that there's a lot more to these things than drilling a bunch of holes and bolting some angle aluminun to your stringers. The two dowel holes are the most critical and really need to be right on, or your motor will move a bit. Really dosen't hurt anything, but will show black around the edges of the plates after a while. You had a lot of the work done for you if you had patterns that you could use, even to modify. The BBF is a lot more complicated, as well, since most guys cover the water pump with the front plate, and there's a lot of holes to locate and drill. Looks like you're doing a nice job. Sorry if I scared anyone...it's not difficult, but if you do it from scratch like I did, it's time consuming and you need to know a few things.

[Jake W2]

You know it is like every thing else all set ups are going to be diffrent depending on power ect.And I am working with low power :p .
My pump is set back untill there is only like 3/8 of the bottom of the kell left but the back of my intake has been machined off to be able to set it back 3/4 further with breaking through the back.I have a Jetaway and a 2 pice drive line so that I can add 1/2 to 2 inches of a spacer if I wanted to move the motor up.As it sits now from the inside of my transom to the back motor plate is about 23 inches.
I would think Budlight or Wightnow would be better guys to ask because they are putting some power to theirs, the more power the further up you want I was told.
Jake

[Jake W2]

Steel I hear you ,yea I was really lucky to bo able to copie for the most part the holes, that is the important part.Roger was a really cool guy to let me make a set off of one of many sets he had for the Ford.
But on a Ford if you have a 3 point mounting system on it now you can take the spacer betwine the mount and motor and make your pattren out of that for hole placement it is dead nuts for the pins and the starter since the starter on a ford is in the mount.
And in the front you can start the pattren off the water pump cover now this would be a lot harder than the back.This is where cardboard would be your friend.Then transfer to thin sheet metal ect.
Jake

[Heatseeker]

[QUOTE]I keep hoping that by ignoring Chet, he will just go away.[/QUOTE
No, No! don't make him go away. He helps me advertise more than you can imagine. You see the Chit that he writes is so amusing, (stupid), that a lot of people read it just for the humor. Now, just becuse of Chit getting into this thread, everyone here now knows that we sell our kits with pillow blocks, that the plates are 3/8" material, and that we will cut out for the mechanical fuel pumps. He brought it to your attention for me.
Good point!
Carry on Chet!

[Heatseeker]

The bolt holes are one thing, but the two block dowel holes are a different story. [/IMG]
Why are the dowel holes so critical on a boat?
They are there to ensure that the trans. and the crankshaft share a common centerline in an automotive situation. But in a boat(a jet, at least) there's no trans. I don't even have dowels in my block anymore.
So what makes them so critical?

[retromek]

Duane's kit is worth the money. I'm making mine cause I had the aluminum already, Plus I needed a puke tank and a Dual Carb Air filter set up. Thats Bring On Another Thousand. So I'm Trying to make everything myself, It's just more fun anyway.
Theres another thread about engine alignment, anyone have the link?

[sanger rat]

Anybody got a picture of a pump brace? I don't have dowel pins either, looks like Sanger cut them off. :rolleyes:

[schiada96]

Why are the dowel holes so critical on a boat?
They are there to ensure that the trans. and the crankshaft share a common centerline in an automotive situation. But in a boat(a jet, at least) there's no trans. I don't even have dowels in my block anymore.
So what makes them so critical?
Aluminum riding on a thread will soon destroy itself. The dowell keeps it from moving around. Alot of the boats I work on have a transmission so we need long pins.

[Heatseeker]

Aluminum riding on a thread will soon destroy itself. The dowell keeps it from moving around. Alot of the boats I work on have a transmission so we need long pins.
If the bolts are properly torqued, how is there any movement?
I used two flathead allens in the lower holes, to clear the flywheel cover. Those would serve as dowels if there were any potential for movement.

[schiada96]

If the bolts are properly torqued, how is there any movement?
I used two flathead allens in the lower holes, to clear the flywheel cover. Those would serve as dowels if there were any potential for movement.
boats flex
how close are your holes if they are off a few thou you are not going to get the alignment factor you desire, so why not just use the pins. Plus it's just not a strong as a pin

[wsuwrhr]

If the bolts are properly torqued, how is there any movement?
I used two flathead allens in the lower holes, to clear the flywheel cover. Those would serve as dowels if there were any potential for movement.
Shit will move around, your flat heads are your dowel pins.
Brian

[wsuwrhr]

Duane's kit is worth the money. I'm making mine cause I had the aluminum already, Plus I needed a puke tank and a Dual Carb Air filter set up. Thats Bring On Another Thousand. So I'm Trying to make everything myself, It's just more fun anyway.
Theres another thread about engine alignment, anyone have the link?
Retromek,
I sent you a PM about your aircleaner.
Brian

[Heatseeker]

boats flex
how close are your holes if they are off a few thou you are not going to get the alignment factor you desire, so why not just use the pins. Plus it's just not a strong as a pin
What am I aligning? The plate to the engine? It doesn't matter, as long as I have proper crank to pump alignment. Last time I removed the plates from the engine(2 seasons ago), I had to give the rear plate a couple of good raps with a mallet to break it loose. I don't see any movement there.
My plates didn't have the dowel holes to begin with. Otherwise, I probably would've used the dowels.

[schiada96]

What am I aligning? The plate to the engine? It doesn't matter, as long as I have proper crank to pump alignment. Last time I removed the plates from the engine(2 seasons ago), I had to give the rear plate a couple of good raps with a mallet to break it loose. I don't see any movement there.
My plates didn't have the dowel holes to begin with. Otherwise, I probably would've used the dowels.
My advise to you is not to use a pin. Most of us who supply builders use them. The shear strength on a bolt is nowhere near a pin. Maybe you don't drive your boat the way we do and you don't see the movement we do. You say it took a couple of hits with a mallet to remove your plate may I ask why?
Stuff moves on a boat that is driven hard at 95 in ruff water pulling a skier.

[bottom feeder]

Hey all nice to see the handy work.
Here are some pics of the mounts I built and yes Chet I have more than 4 or 5 hours in them. I need to send out a big thank you to HTP for the killer website with pics that I used to base the design on. Or should I just send him the $375.00 as it would have saved me major cash to start with his FINE product. :)
I built mine from 1/4 in 6061-T6 frnt and rear. There is a tork link on each side to control any movement fore and aft (that is front to back Chet)
Tork link
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1501tork_link-med.JPG
Frnt plt and alt mnt
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1501alt_mnt-med.JPG
Plumbing
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1501lines-med.JPG

[Duane HTP]

Sanger Rat, Send me your email address, and I'll send you some pump brace pictures.

[steelcomp]

Hey all nice to see the handy work.
Here are some pics of the mounts I built and yes Chet I have more than 4 or 5 hours in them. I need to send out a big thank you to HTP for the killer website with pics that I used to base the design on. Or should I just send him the $375.00 as it would have saved me major cash to start with his FINE product. :)
I built mine from 1/4 in 6061-T6 frnt and rear. There is a tork link on each side to control any movement fore and aft (that is front to back Chet)
Tork link
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1501tork_link-med.JPG
Frnt plt and alt mnt
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/1501alt_mnt-med.JPG
Plumbing
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1501lines-med.JPG
Feeder...nice work. There's just something about integral aluminum stringers that says "sweet!!" I used 5/16 7075 on my mounts, but wish I'd have gone 3/8 on the back. I know it flexes a little, but for a drag style set up, I guess it dosen't really matter a whole lot. I thought about a drag link of some kind, but figured when I build the new motor, I'll just make a thicker rear plate.
Again, nice work, 'ey. :cool:

[steelcomp]

Why are the dowel holes so critical on a boat?
They are there to ensure that the trans. and the crankshaft share a common centerline in an automotive situation. But in a boat(a jet, at least) there's no trans. I don't even have dowels in my block anymore.
So what makes them so critical?
You've gotten plenty of good answers here heatseeker, but I'd like to answer you in my own words. The dowel holes are for location. The bolt holes are not. Unless you have close tolerance shouldered bolts with a close tolerance hole patern, the bolts are not made for locating. That's very hard to do with a multiple hole pattern, especially in mass production, so the engineers just made two big dowels to do the job. I don't know if you know what grade or type of bolt you are using on your bell housing, but to put those bolts in shear and tension is wrong unless you're using a grade 5 or better bolt. And as stated earlier, eventually, if you don't have shouldered bolts, the threads will wear the aluminum holes. Weekend medium performance or not, but especially in a race deal where you're using lots of power. FYI, stainless hardware is about as weak as it gets when it comes to this kind of appplication, with the exception of ARP's stainless bolts. Now, can you get away with it? Sounds like plenty have, but not because it's the right way to do it, or even that it's OK to do it. I will bet you dimes to donuts that when whoever made those plates, they were just being lazy. The dowels not only keep things from rotating in a boat (or car) with motorplates, they also suppport the weight of the motor.
If you're comfortable with not running dowels, so be it. For all intensive purposes, you'll probably never experience anything negative from it, but I think they serve an important purpose, so I will make sure I use them, and they fit good and snug, and will advise anyone who ask that they should do the same. Lets put it this way. There's no reason NOT to use them.

[wsuwrhr]

FYI, stainless hardware is about as weak as it gets when it comes to this kind of appplication, with the exception of ARP's stainless bolts.
The dowels not only keep things from rotating in a boat (or car) with motorplates, they also suppport the weight of the motor.
If you're comfortable with not running dowels, so be it.
I am sure the dowels were also used to "locate" the block when it was originally machined.
In Heetseekers defense, he is also using flathead allens, which in their own right will center themselves. A 3/8 bolt may not be as strong as a 5/8(chevy)pin, but it will center up and locate.
My boat is aligned with the pins as you described, but in the Dodge the are 7/16 I think.
Brian

[Heatseeker]

Steelcomp, I understand the points being made by both yourself and Schiada96. When I put this deal together, I figured that the flatheads would serve my application well at keeping things stable(my thinking: the countersunk areas provide more surface engagement than the the dowels would and the bolts are plenty strong enough to support the weight of the engine). So far, I've seen no evidence of fretting between plate and engine block.
I was questioning the alignment aspect of the dowels. I wasn't seeing the need for alignment dowels on a boat without a transmission. Now I see the point being made.
And my plate was stuck because I installed over still sticky fresh paint :frown: . The point I was trying to make was that with the plate being stuck, it most likely wasn't moving around.

[steelcomp]

John, you're not going to have any problems. ONe thing, however, is that what I've experienced with cs flatheads is that unless your holes are right on, and I mean dead nuts, the bolt will have to bend to get the taper to fit the hole. Now the taper isn't square with the hole, and the bolt is under a lot of stress. Actually a worse condition than just a through hole and a bolt with a head on it. Just an observation of my own past mistakes.
If the plate (or block) is not moving, it's not moving. That's the bottom line.

[ChetCapoli]

Don't count on it.
Hey chet, why don't you go around to all these "old schoolers out there that have quite the inventory if your thirfty and can buy some "drops" they have around" and beg for some drops and go into business for yourself making and selling rail kits.
How did this thread go from the promotor and his antics to me and telling you a fact about being resourceful huh? If your too stupid to figure this shit out that your problem. Then again you do have $200 into relocating your steering dont ya.... :rolleyes: Arent you the one looking for a "used" place diverter??? now THAT is really easy to find. They are just all over the place now arent they. Even i had to buy one NEW if you can believe that! It hurt like hell too!! If you use your head you save where and when you can cuz somethings(like diverters) you have to buck up for...no choice in the matter. Then again you knew that right?
I'll be your first customer. In fact i have, lets see 1/2 of 375 = $187.50 right here waiting for you. Its your for the first rail kit you make. Thats my offer. Oh, and it must have pillow blocks, which Dwayne offers also. Oh, it needs to fit a BBC. So whats you lead time. When your done call me, i'll send the money.
Again my friend, MAKE SENSE here will ya. I said you IF YOU DO IT YOURSELF.....you will have.....and i'll be generous in my assesment to humor the "support group" out there...$175.00 in the MATERIALS to make the rail kit. Now just WHERE did i say you can make what's in the picture for $175.00??? I DID however say you can (for the extra $200 or to be BLUNT even LESS than $200) get someone to drill all the holes(even to steel comp specs!) and cut the motor mounts out and EVEN countour the sharp edges for the rails....if you ask him very nice that is...for what your saving($200) by buying the material your self and not buying that "DEAL" kit! Ten hours at $20 bucks an hour fellas is what i'm saying. What is so hard to comprehend here eh?? Spend more time MAKING SENSE instead of trying to bust my balls will ya? Geesh! Look at it this way..just because of ME the nice guy promotor is going to include 6 pillow blocks in his DEAL and even cut out the the front for the fuel pump area. :rolleyes: Let's see how long it takes to update his picture with the new info. :) He should call it the "chet" option. :D
CHET

[ChetCapoli]

I made my own rail kit, motor plates, pump brace, etc, and I've been fabricating for 20+ yrs., and this was a pretty intense project. Chet, AS USUAL, you don't know the FIRST thing you're talking about. You think having the shapes cut out for you is no big deal?? Maybe so, (actually it is, but we'll give you that one for argument's sake) but let me ask you this, smart guy. Where are you going to get the hole layout for the back of the block? Transfer punch from a bell housing?
Here's yer sign! (I'm stupid!!)
You might as well give them all to me for arguments sake pal cuz what your stating is alot of jibberish! Transfer punch from a bellhousing?? geesh, i never thought of that! :D
The bolt holes are one thing, but the two block dowel holes are a different story. Lets see. Do you even know where to get a drill the right size for them? How 'bout the correct reamer? Those are close tolerance holes, and are what hold the entire weight and torque of the motor. What, you think you're going to do this with a ruler? Maybe a tape measure?? Can you even read a pair of calipers? Those two holes, to do their job correctly, need to be located 15.380" apart +/- .002, and need to be .6185-.6200 to be the right size. That's a factory tolerance of .0015". (Is that a drill you have in your tool box?) They need to be perpendicular and parallel to the bolt hole pattern as well. Do you know what the vertical distance from the C/L of the crank to the C/L of the dowel holes is? (2.320" for those of you who want to know) Then how the f uck are you going to know where your motor is sitting or weather it lines up with your pump shaft or not?? Do you know anything about laying out bolt hole patterns? Words like radial or radius, or true position? Naw, just get a drill and start drillin. If you miss, just drill a bigger hole, it'll fit!! How 'bout those pump braces? Think you can just eyeball one of those?
This is really humorous...did you get this out of your "machinists" diary to make yourself look smart?? I have one word for you.....TEMPLATES....look it up in your "diary"...its on the pages you have stuck together. :D
You're the classic back seat driver, Chet. The first one to say how easy something is, and knock a guy for putting a price on his good work, but probably never in your life even tried to do something like it. If you had, you'd respect the time it takes to come up with the design alone on something like that, not to mention actually doing it. Why don't you makae a rail kit and show us how good it comes out? Show us that expertise from which you can be so critical.
I'm a do-it-yourselfer that likes to save a buck bottom line. Backseat driver?? Unlike you i did all the work on my boat and didnt have people show me how to test and tune ok??. Anyways, I hardly think the promotor came up with a rail kit design sorry to inform you. As stated before, for the money and time you will still have to spend to finish that "deal" of a kit and make it usable in any boat, you should just buy the materials yourself and do it like i said. What is so hard to understand??
BTW...I didn't have access to a machine shop. I used calipers, a machinist's rule, blue layout dye and a sharp scribe. It took me three nights just to lay out my pieces and ctr. punch my holes. I'm proud to say, that when I sllid my plate on the back of my motor, it was only off by a few thou, and with a little file work on the dowel holes, it slipped right on.
All those specific measurements/machinist jibberish above and you were off by a few thou??? say it isnt so boy?? You have been a fabricator for over 20 years and dont have access to a machine shop??? LMAO!! It is you who must not be well liked is all i can say!
You have to know something besides opening up that big sore under your nose and spewing a bunch of crap, and THAT, you are real good at! I don't know much about your ability, but from your complete lack of resoect for the time it takes to do something like a rail kit and motor plates, I'd say you're just another jealous spectator.
I respect alot of things just not donut clubs, promotors, support groups etc....you get my drift dont ya?? It kinda gets outta hand at times here...well...most of the time. Aside from being bored....its what keeps me coming back. :D
then after all THAT you have to say this??
I guess i was trying to make a point that there is a lot more to these things than drilling a bunch of holes and bolting some angle aluminum to your stringers. The two dowel holes are the most critical and really need to be right on or your motor will move a bit. Really doesnt hurt anything though.
Pretty funny i must say......MAKE SENSE will ya?? Check that sore under your lip son.....it's spewing!
CHET

[schiada96]

You might as well give them all to me for arguments sake pal cuz what your stating is alot of jibberish! Transfer punch from a bellhousing?? geesh, i never thought of that! :D
This is really humorous...did you get this out of your "machinists" diary to make yourself look smart?? I have one word for you.....TEMPLATES....look it up in your "diary"...its on the pages you have stuck together. :D
I'm a do-it-yourselfer that likes to save a buck bottom line. Backseat driver?? Unlike you i did all the work on my boat and didnt have people show me how to test and tune ok??. Anyways, I hardly think the promotor came up with a rail kit design sorry to inform you. As stated before, for the money and time you will still have to spend to finish that "deal" of a kit and make it usable in any boat, you should just buy the materials yourself and do it like i said. What is so hard to understand??
All those specific measurements/machinist jibberish above and you were off by a few thou??? say it isnt so boy?? You have been a fabricator for over 20 years and dont have access to a machine shop??? LMAO!! It is you who must not be well liked is all i can say!
I respect alot of things just not donut clubs, promotors, support groups etc....you get my drift dont ya?? It kinda gets outta hand at times here...well...most of the time. Aside from being bored....its what keeps me coming back. :D
then after all THAT you have to say this??
Pretty funny i must say......MAKE SENSE will ya?? Check that sore under your lip son.....it's spewing!
CHET
Chet your a dork

[Heatseeker]

This is really humorous...did you get this out of your "machinists" diary to make yourself look smart?? I have one word for you.....TEMPLATES....look it up in your "diary"...its on the pages you have stuck together. :D
CHET
Chet, the book you're refering to here is called a "Machinery's Handbook".
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0831125756.01._PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg
If you're going to flame someone, it helps to at least sound like you know what you're talking about!

[superdave013]

steelcomp,
When you make the mid plate for the new boat do it like this one.
By not cutting out the bottom it keeps the transmission bellhousing from cracking when the boat flexs. That's no big deal in a jet or a drag set up. But when you run hard in the rough it helps.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1503LeE_ss13_motor_plate-med.jpg

[superdave013]

I've seen those. But to tell the truth this is just in my garage as a hobby type of thing. (and some side cash) So I pretty much just squint! lol
I do have a nice DRO on the X & Y though.

[schiada96]

I've seen those. But to tell the truth this is just in my garage as a hobby type of thing. (and some side cash) So I pretty much just squint! lol
I do have a nice DRO on the X & Y though.
Shit I still count turns 200 400 600 800 1.000

[wsuwrhr]

It's easier for me to drop the zeros.
2-4-6-8-10-2-4-6-8-10. I hate doing that.
Brian

[hack job]

Shit I still count turns 200 400 600 800 1.000
this is how we do it ;)
read outs :idea: :D

[superdave013]

Shit I still count turns 200 400 600 800 1.000
I would like to see you do that on my lathe. Each turn is 0.060". I don't have a dro on that one either :yuk: Should have never got rid of that south bend I had. :(

[flat broke]

I would like to see you do that on my lathe. Each turn is 0.060". I don't have a dro on that one either :yuk: Should have never got rid of that south bend I had. :(
Thats gotta be fun... :rollside: Let me guess, you divide your desired diemension by .060, count the turns and then get precise on the last one? :D
Was that plate for a Ferd?
Chris

[superdave013]

nope, that one is in LeEss 13's superstock boat. BBC all the way.

[schiada96]

[QUOTE=flat broke]Thats gotta be fun... :rollside: Let me guess, you divide your desired diemension by .060, count the turns and then get precise on the last one? :D
FB is that your boat in your avitar

[wsuwrhr]

Twins :2purples: - Hardinge HLV Tool Room Series one with DRO one without..
What is that, a hospital? haha
In these parts we have concrete or the checkerboard floors.
Nice looking shop. Good machines too.
Brian

[wsuwrhr]

Yes I make artificial hearts for birds.
You are kidding right?
You never know around here....
Brian

[wsuwrhr]

Fadal CNC coming soon......
Fadal?
Have you ever run one?
Great machines, controller could use some work. Maybe they have improved.
Brian

[wsuwrhr]

Yep best support, local, unlimited training. I use Pro E to post prosser to G code. Works sweet!!! Actually the new controller is pretty nice..
Cool then,
"American made" too.
Although I will get flamed as the electronics are probably foreign.
Great machines though, they really are. I just never liked the controller.
Glad to see they are getting better.
I think my next machine will be a HAAS, but I will have to check out a Fadal now.
Brian

[wsuwrhr]

Yep Fadal is american made, FADAL is honestly for Frank, Andy, Dave, Alex, Larry.
Or something like that but it is short for their names...
Cool I did not know that.
Since we are on acronyms:
FEMCO stands for Far East Machinery Co.
Bastards.
Brian

[schiada96]

Fadal is on the corner of the street I'm on now. I make a lot of parts for Hass.
We have two 40-20's , we do sheetmetal mostly.

[wsuwrhr]

"keep America Strong" MAKE BILLET PARTS!!!
That's me dude.
I am making clean horsepower today, finishing up the birdcatcher aircleaners.
Brian

[wsuwrhr]

:D :D :D SWEET get some pics up when your done!!
Will do,
You had to have been around long enough to know I shamelessly spam my stuff.
Brian

[Duane HTP]

Let's get this thread back on track here. Chit is a dip $hit.

[schiada96]

Looking for a good used CNC backstop press brake??
Nope we have 15 here

[schiada96]

Let's get this thread back on track here. Chit is a dip $hit.
yep back on track

[hack job]

[QUOTE=flat broke]Thats gotta be fun... :rollside: Let me guess, you divide your desired diemension by .060, count the turns and then get precise on the last one? :D
FB is that your boat in your avitar
thats the boat he wishs he had
;)
he has spectra 20 with a jet and a bbc same colors though ;)

[wsuwrhr]

NOW LETS TALK ABOUT BILLET SHIT AGAIN and cool parts from you guys!!!
Billet shit and cool parts can be seen on "prop turning device" thread in the v-drives forum.
Brian
I still own a jet boat.

[steelcomp]

Hey, when I use the dials, I used my sharpie to mark the table (or ways on the lathe) where the last .10 would be, then to return to that number, I'd jusrt crank till the lines matched (instead of counting 1 2 3...), then go whatever fraction I needed after that. As long as you had the back lash out in the right direction, no prob. I couldn't machine without my Sharpies. Red, black and blue. I also learned the hard way to always check weather the cross feed on a lathe is dia. or rad. :hammer2:
It sucks...I have a Max Mill with a brand new DRO, coolant set up, brand new Enco power feed, and I can't use it. It's for sale if anyone is intersted.

[steelcomp]

steelcomp,
When you make the mid plate for the new boat do it like this one.
By not cutting out the bottom it keeps the transmission bellhousing from cracking when the boat flexs. That's no big deal in a jet or a drag set up. But when you run hard in the rough it helps.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/1503LeE_ss13_motor_plate-med.jpg
Thanks for that idea. Good one. Wish I had access to a nice rotary table like that. Even a small one would be cool...if I could use my mill. :confused:

[flat broke]

FB is that your boat in your avitar
Nope,
I shot the pic at Parker 2 years ago. In the full size version you can see the driver flipping off another boat that got a little too close. But unless you were there, the pic would just make ya think he was flipping me off :) As I see my brother pointed out, I'm trolin around in a Spectra with a NA 498 and one of those squirty things off the back.
Chris