Just a few Pump setback pics...

[HammerDown]

*I moved my pump back some 6"...however I didn't blow through the back all the way. Maybe 3/4 left under the hull.
*Also the aluminum plate need to bridge the now longer hole in the hull.
*The piece of hull (cut out and used) from the now longer hole...used as a filler.

[flat broke]

Hammer,
Thanks for posting those up. Do you have before cutting and after cutting shots of the hole in the hull? You gotta do a little story on this one for us :) Pics, writeup etc.
Thanks,
Chris

[HammerDown]

Filler piece from cut out...cleaned of all gel coat and used with much epoxy.
***Remember (ALL) measurements MUST be taken from the underside of the Hull...this is where everything is true and counts!
The final result...was it worth it...you bet! :cool:

[HammerDown]

Hammer,
Thanks for posting those up. Do you have before cutting and after cutting shots of the hole in the hull? You gotta do a little story on this one for us :) Pics, writeup etc.
Thanks,
Chris
Sorry Chris...no pic's of the hull prior to cutting...but all's I did was figure where the hand hole (pins) would need to be (just outside the transom) and make the hole some 6" longer. I used a Jig Saw and then a grinder to dial the new cut in. The piece I cut out was grinded down to a clean fiberglass chunk to be later used as a filler/helper piece on the underside as seen on a earler pic.
Again...the biggest thing to remember is when doing a setback and re-installing the intake...(FIRST) take ALL the required measurememts from under the hull. Jack does a little machining to the rear lower portion of the Intake so it can be moved back a little bit extra. Obviously this is done for setback's that (don't) bust through the Hull. And that was recomended to me by Jack when I did this job. I hit some pretty rough water out here in Pa on the Delaware River (tugg Boat wakes) :rolleyes: and some 50+ foot Sea Ray's!
No cracks...and no leaks. ;) This is the way to do a set back for a river racer.
I did give some one here on this Forum detailed step by step instructions how I did my setback...I'll need to find out who it was. Way toooo much for me to re-type again :220v:

[blown428fe]

Hammer- How did you make out with the puddy job? Was the stuff runny?

[HammerDown]

Hammer- How did you make out with the puddy job? Was the stuff runny?
"runny" no...however it wanted to let's say...sag a little. Especially working under the hull. I found it better to work it in layers vs trying to make a big blob stay where I wanted it to. I had some heat lamps helping it to cure as I was in a somewhat cool garage.
The fun part...and I mean it was kinda neet... was contouring the hump Daytonas have in their keel. Just like working body filler (but this stuff is like Iron)..little at a time. It came out perfect...ya never know it wasen't factory.
Sea Going Poxy Putty...the HD stuff. Great S**T

[holorinhal]

Why does'nt the pictures show up in this thread?
Does anyone else see the pic's or is something wrong on My end?...Hal

[jbone]

I only see a really white boat in a snow storm.
Wait, no that's just a plain white page.:D No pics.
J

[502 JET]

Why doesn't the pictures show up in this thread?
Does anyone else see the pic's or is something wrong on My end?...Hal
The pics were probably deleted where they were hosted.
Try sending H.D. a pm for the pics or maybe he will see this and fix it so the pics show up if he still has them.

[holorinhal]

Yea thats a white out snow storm!

[pw_Tony]

Yes please some pics that work!

[BrendellaJet]

Hammerdown has been quiet lately(I haven't seen him anyways). What pix are yall looking for. He walked me through this a few years ago so I have a good idea what is going on. Have lots of pix too.

[HalletDave]

The pics were probably deleted where they were hosted.Try sending H.D. a pm for the pics or maybe he will see this and fix it so the pics show up if he still has them.
:idea:
Ya think. This thread is from 01-20-2005 :D

[holorinhal]

Hammerdown has been quiet lately(I haven't seen him anyways). What pix are yall looking for. He walked me through this a few years ago so I have a good idea what is going on. Have lots of pix too.
Hey Brendella Thanks .I am doing a set back, I want the the shoe placed right at the back edge of the transom and the hand hole out side.I am pretty sure I will have to go out the transom to get there.I have glassed in the entire hole to start over being that I swaped from jaquzzi to Berk.I was just doing reserch and looking for pics,especially measurement refrences.I know how to find the centerline of the keel.but was looking for ideas about where to measure from transom to front of intake to cut hole ,without going too far. I cant just sit the intake in the hole and set the suction housing onit and slide it back untill it is placed where I want it and mark it ,becouse the hole is is solid and as You know the suction base is at a 4* angle which throws the hand hole back further when the intake is flat. I don't know if this makes any sense. I gues I am just looking for ideas on how to measure the back to front .measurement to seeif I could get the hand hole outside without going thru the transom. Even if I had 3/4 machined off the back of the intake,it probobly would'nt go. I know I am just rambling here,I will probobly just go out the transom ,cut the hole a litle short and trimm ,if it needs to be moved up,and put a pump brace on it,,,,Hal

[IndianaTahiti]

Filler piece from cut out...cleaned of all gel coat and used with much epoxy.
***Remember (ALL) measurements MUST be taken from the underside of the Hull...this is where everything is true and counts!
The final result...was it worth it...you bet! :cool:
What kind of final result ride did you experience with this set back? Did your hand hole clear the transom? Some that I have seen did not,they were right in the middle so it looked like if you got weeds you were screwed:idea: What measurements are critical? My hole in my transom looks large enough to just slide the hole assembly back?I have a stock berk intake & pump. Also I have seen some of the intakes looking like they are an 1 inch or more past the bottom of the transom?

[BrendellaJet]

Hey Brendella Thanks .I am doing a set back, I want the the shoe placed right at the back edge of the transom and the hand hole out side.I am pretty sure I will have to go out the transom to get there.I have glassed in the entire hole to start over being that I swaped from jaquzzi to Berk.I was just doing reserch and looking for pics,especially measurement refrences.I know how to find the centerline of the keel.but was looking for ideas about where to measure from transom to front of intake to cut hole ,without going too far. I cant just sit the intake in the hole and set the suction housing onit and slide it back untill it is placed where I want it and mark it ,becouse the hole is is solid and as You know the suction base is at a 4* angle which throws the hand hole back further when the intake is flat. I don't know if this makes any sense. I gues I am just looking for ideas on how to measure the back to front .measurement to seeif I could get the hand hole outside without going thru the transom. Even if I had 3/4 machined off the back of the intake,it probobly would'nt go. I know I am just rambling here,I will probobly just go out the transom ,cut the hole a litle short and trimm ,if it needs to be moved up,and put a pump brace on it,,,,Hal
It sounds like you will have to break through the transom. I would definitely use a brace. My new boat has cracks where the transom and floor meet. Im in the process of fixing them and will use a brace outside the boat when done.
As far as measuring goes, use the bottom of the boat.Try to find the center as best you can. Sounds easier than it is. Base your decision off of the outside features(lifting strakes and chine). Boats are not perfectly symetrical so ultimately some sacrifice has to be made. you will see what I mean. As for which features to give more weight to, I would say the wetted surface of the boat carries more weight.
Once the center is located, you have the intake so you can measure it and cut accordingly. Try to visualize. I stared at mine for a few days, studying how the intake fits in the boat. I saved my ass from cutting too much because I triple checked everything.
Check out the pic:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/100_0462.JPG
Study the way your intake will fit in the boat at the transom. I had to file fit the transom so the intake would sit low enough. I almost ended up cutting too far back because I didn't see all the features in the intake that would have created more problems had I cut more of the floor out. Once you are sure your hole location is good, cut away. Use the adjuster holes in the intake and make sure the keel depth is matched by your shoe. Then, get the intake level and make sure it lines up with features in the hull bottom and adjust the screws as necessary. Then practice getting it set in correctly. For whatever reason my epoxy went off really quick. I had 20 mintes max...caught me off guard but I was prepared and it went well.
Buy the quart size of the epoxy and use too much. Tape off around the intake so you dont make a huge mess. pack the epoxy onto the boat and then set the intake in it and press it down. get it set in the right spot and then go to work doing the clean up. This job is all about prep. The actual work goes quick. Set it, measure and clean up before the epoxy kicks. Use a putty knife to scrape the excess, and then use your finger(dip your hand in water) to shape the epoxy between the hull and intake. Mask off everythink you dont want epoxy on.

[IndianaTahiti]

It sounds like you will have to break through the transom. I would definitely use a brace. My new boat has cracks where the transom and floor meet. Im in the process of fixing them and will use a brace outside the boat when done.
As far as measuring goes, use the bottom of the boat.Try to find the center as best you can. Sounds easier than it is. Base your decision off of the outside features(lifting strakes and chine). Boats are not perfectly symetrical so ultimately some sacrifice has to be made. you will see what I mean. As for which features to give more weight to, I would say the wetted surface of the boat carries more weight.
Once the center is located, you have the intake so you can measure it and cut accordingly. Try to visualize. I stared at mine for a few days, studying how the intake fits in the boat. I saved my ass from cutting too much because I triple checked everything.
Check out the pic:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/100_0462.JPG
Study the way your intake will fit in the boat at the transom. I had to file fit the transom so the intake would sit low enough. I almost ended up cutting too far back because I didn't see all the features in the intake that would have created more problems had I cut more of the floor out. Once you are sure your hole location is good, cut away. Use the adjuster holes in the intake and make sure the keel depth is matched by your shoe. Then, get the intake level and make sure it lines up with features in the hull bottom and adjust the screws as necessary. Then practice getting it set in correctly. For whatever reason my epoxy went off really quick. I had 20 mintes max...caught me off guard but I was prepared and it went well.
Buy the quart size of the epoxy and use too much. Tape off around the intake so you dont make a huge mess. pack the epoxy onto the boat and then set the intake in it and press it down. get it set in the right spot and then go to work doing the clean up. This job is all about prep. The actual work goes quick. Set it, measure and clean up before the epoxy kicks. Use a putty knife to scrape the excess, and then use your finger(dip your hand in water) to shape the epoxy between the hull and intake. Mask off everythink you dont want epoxy on.
This is good info, the braces that you are talkin about,is it to tie the cut out section back to the transom kinda like a cav plate setup? Or are you talkin about tying the port side back to the starbord side on the floor? I havent looked real in-depth yet but is there alot of measurment differences between different intakes?

[holorinhal]

Brendellajet; in Your pic You did not go through the transom,but I noticed in other pics of Your boat That Your hand hole looks to be outside. did You get the hand hole out side the transom without cutting through,or is there that much diffrence in the berk and Jaquzzi intake,or is the degree of the Your transom more sraight or square with the keel?

[BrendellaJet]

This is good info, the braces that you are talkin about,is it to tie the cut out section back to the transom kinda like a cav plate setup? Or are you talkin about tying the port side back to the starbord side on the floor? I havent looked real in-depth yet but is there alot of measurment differences between different intakes?
Yes, cav plate rods from the back of the intake to the transom. That way there is less leverage on the floor of the boat. Intakes for the berk pumps are all the same I think. If you have a JC I would keep it and add a shoe/rideplate.

[BrendellaJet]

Brendellajet; in Your pic You did not go through the transom,but I noticed in other pics of Your boat That Your hand hole looks to be outside. did You get the hand hole out side the transom without cutting through,or is there that much diffrence in the berk and Jaquzzi intake,or is the degree of the Your transom more sraight or square with the keel?
you are looking at two different boats. on the pics posted above, that is for my boat with the Jac 12WJ, going back that far yields a hand hole that is rendered useless(half in, half out). My other boat(Berk JC) the transom is broken through and the hand hole is outside. IMO, to get the hand hole outside the boat, you either need to A) break through the transom, or B) get tricky with the transom plates, Im sure you've seen those pix...I try to do everything myself so I did without the hand hole access on my Jacuzzi pumped boat.
on my new boat(with the berk) if it could be changed, Id move the intake back in the boat and fiberglass the transom back together and spend the money to have Jack build the trick plates. Unfortunately Id have to mov ethe motor forward and there is no room in the interior to make that happen. Im gonna fix the cracked transom and support it as mentioned previously, it should be pretty bullet proof then.

[HammerDown]

Some quick pics, pump was moved back some 6"...gotta run!
The section of Hull I carefully cut from the back was fully cleaned/prepped and used as a filler block underneath as I did not want all Epoxy in the hole.
And yes the Hand Hole cover can be removed...I made the custom Transom Cover.
Would I do it again...absolutely!
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/1064DSC00020.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/1064DSC00028.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/1064DSC00030.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/1064DSC00022.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/1064DSC00031.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/1064DSC00033.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/1064DSC00029.jpg
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/medium/1064DSC00001.jpg