Gps runs after bottom blueprinting

[Squirtcha?]

O.K..............Snuck up to the lake today. I have lotsa stuff to do around the house, so it was a no nonsense trip just to get some numbers. I made a half dozen passes.
First I'll say that my setup is exactly the same as it was prior to the blueprinting. Changing it around may, or may not help the numbers. Only time and some experimentation will tell.
Got it on the water and warmed it up some. My oil pressure was still a little high for the first pass or two, so it was probably a bit thick and not at optimum running temp, but here's the result anyway.
It ran a consistent 79-80 mph without the nitrous. This betters my previous no nitrous speed by 2.3 mph. It's not the 6-8 mph I had hoped for, but I'm still pretty happy with it.
I had installed a nitrous bottle heater while everything was apart. In the past I couldn't use the nitrous unless the ambient temps were 85 degrees or better. Unfortunately I hadn't filled the bottle and I knew there was only a run or two left in it (probably 3 or 4 lbs in the bottle). The heater was doing it's thing, but it didn't have the "big hit" like it does when it's a full bottle. I ran 85.6 mph which is about the same as what it used to run on nitrous before blueprinting. On the third pass I ran the bottle dry so I know it could do much better if full.
Typically the 150 shot would get me an additional 7-8 mph when all conditions are optimum. This being the case I should be able to run 87 mph (or so) on the juice this summer.
It's not the 90 mph I'd hoped for, but all in all.........I'm still happy with the results.
There were some baby rollers where I was running it, and I noticed a little porpoise when running at wot and trimmed for speed. You could trim it out by lowering the diverter, but the speed would fall off some (of course). It didn't do it in the calm areas, only where the rollers were.
I've always played around with my setup stuff a lot, and noticed prior to the bottom work it would porpoise a bit if I had too much wedge up on the droop, and too much up angle on the plate. I may be able to drop this stuff down and get rid of the bow bounce.
I also installed a new automatic bilge pump when it was torn apart. Man that little dude is way cool. Worked like a champ and I'm gonna be loving it this summer (especially on the over night trips where it stays on the water).
Bottom line......................was it worth the money and effort. A resounding YES! For a measley $150 and some labor, for sure. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

[Ken F]

Dan,
Glad to know it turned out positive for you! lol
Wouldn't it have sucked to have done all that work and had it do worse???
I wish I had been able to do the Omega in the manor you did with no other changes. That's really the way to do it. I'm betting that since your bottom is a little different, your set up will need a little tweeking too don't you?
The 2.3 kind of surprises me though, I really expected a lititle more, and I know you did too!
Anyway congrats on a job well done!
Ken

[Taylorman]

Dan, i assume you had your boats setup tweaked before you did the bottom. Like Ken said, im sure you will have to do some more tweaking to the setup with the new bottom. Im sure you will find a few more mph with some tweaking. Wouldn't you think? If it were me, id do some tweaking to the setup before i would make any other changes to see how much you can squeeze out of the new bottom. Good luck.

[Squirtcha?]

Dan, i assume you had your boats setup tweaked before you did the bottom. Like Ken said, im sure you will have to do some more tweaking to the setup with the new bottom. Im sure you will find a few more mph with some tweaking. Wouldn't you think? If it were me, id do some tweaking to the setup before i would make any other changes to see how much you can squeeze out of the new bottom. Good luck.
Yeah, I agree with you and Ken. Especially since I developed that little porpoise deal. If the water was flat, it did just fine. Hit a couple little rollers and get it going, and you'd have to adjust the trim to settle it down.
I always play with setup stuff, it's kinda my thing. Typical "Can't leave well enough alone" mentality. Might experiment with some different loaders and possibly a tapered backcut shoe too.
Other than setup stuff, I'm done with the Kachina. If I can get it to do 90 mph that's probably all the faster I'd want to run this hull anyway. If I wanna go faster than that, I'll start shopping for a tunnelhull.

[flat broke]

Dan,
Just a little thought for you here... If you had previous numbers at given RPM levels compared to after the bottom work, you might notice that the bottom work isn't a linear improvement. I.E. the faster you go, the better your returns. Not saying thats going to happen, but don't give up on that 90 just yet. If you have some numbers from before at say 3k,3500, 4k etc and could plot those against new numbers even without the Nos, you would be able to graph the trend for the boat even without the NOS ;) I bet you find 90 well before June at the rate you're going. BTW, that back cut shoe is something you should probably dabble with. I just cut mine last week along with a new loader and different plate setting, so we'll see how the boat does tomorrow.
Chris

[Squirtcha?]

I knew I shoulda written those numbers down. I had em from last year, but didn't commit em to memory.
I'm running a backcut shoe now, but wanted to try a tapered backcut and maybe some blocker type loaders also. I'll definitely keep after it Chris. It's my nature to mess with things.
If you don't mind.............let me know how your hardware changes work out for ya?
Thanks
Dan

[bottom feeder]

Dan nice job from start to end. Thanks for the write up as you went i am sure there a lot of jeters that have put the information you have provided to good use. Besides what other improvements netted the same gain for a 150 bones? Knowing how much you use the adjustments I am sure you will see the 90'S
Best regards

[Mr.&Mrs.Budlight]

Don't give up the ship!!! Now while you are tuning the hull setup and tweaking it. You know the bottom is puss, so you don't have to worry about it anymore!!!! Mine worked better by closing off an 1inch of the opening to limit the water with little diff on bottom end. Just have a diff shoe made 1 at a time as you can afford it. Good luck. Budlight :idea:

[Some Kind Of Monster]

Thanks for sharing everything with us Dan. Can't wait to see you run this summer!

[Hallett19]

I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
Want to do mine ? :cool:
It was a cool project to watch come together, thanks for all the great documentation !

[flat broke]

Dan,
hardware changes were good for exactly 1.5mph. At this rate, I'll have to cut half of the boat out to get to where I want to be. :D
Chris

[steelcomp]

I knew I shoulda written those numbers down. I had em from last year, but didn't commit em to memory.
I'm running a backcut shoe now, but wanted to try a tapered backcut and maybe some blocker type loaders also. I'll definitely keep after it Chris. It's my nature to mess with things.
If you don't mind.............let me know how your hardware changes work out for ya?
Thanks
Dan
Dan...what do you mean by a tapered backcut?
You might need more hp for much more top end, but I would bet that you're boat is a lot quicker than it was. Did you ever 1/4 mile it?
Great job, and good results. Best 150 bones spent, I'd say. :wink:

[Squirtcha?]

Hey Scott,
No unfortunately I've never ran it through the lights. Wish I had now though. It always had a pretty good holeshot, however it would (due to the hook I think) tend to bow bounce off the line. It'd take a couple bounces, then settle in. I didn't try any holeshot type starts so I'm not sure if that's still there or not. You might be right about it being quicker quarter mile style. We'll see at the river this summer I'm sure.
The shoe on the left is a tapered. The one on the right is a backcut. Now picture one with both characteristics. Thicker at the front than the rear, and with a backcut. It's supposed to make the boat rock back and ride more on the plate. From what I could tell this weekend, I could still use to get the bow up a little higher to free up some more boat.
http://home.pacbell.net/jmcclure/TshoeBCshoe1.jpg
Dan,
hardware changes were good for exactly 1.5mph. :D
Chris
That's pretty consistent with my hardware changes. I used to switch around all kindsa stuff. Sometimes it'd be a gainer, and sometimes not, but most the time (whether good or bad) it was a mph or two.
I've seen some guys post up some huge numbers from changing a loader, shimming a shoe, raising a plate etc. Not saying it aint so..........just that I never got any huge gains by making that type of adjustment.
Someone once quoted Jack (not sure if it's accurate any more) saying that with the jets, it's a bunch of little changes and the compilation of those changes that gets you the speed. Like I said, I don't know how accurate the verbage is after all these years, but it's pretty consistent with regards to my own boat. One mph here......two mph there. It all adds up eventually.
Thanks for the words of encouragement ya'll.

[Kim Hanson]

O.K..............Snuck up to the lake today. I have lotsa stuff to do around the house, so it was a no nonsense trip just to get some numbers. I made a half dozen passes.
First I'll say that my setup is exactly the same as it was prior to the blueprinting. Changing it around may, or may not help the numbers. Only time and some experimentation will tell.
Got it on the water and warmed it up some. My oil pressure was still a little high for the first pass or two, so it was probably a bit thick and not at optimum running temp, but here's the result anyway.
It ran a consistent 79-80 mph without the nitrous. This betters my previous no nitrous speed by 2.3 mph. It's not the 6-8 mph I had hoped for, but I'm still pretty happy with it.
I had installed a nitrous bottle heater while everything was apart. In the past I couldn't use the nitrous unless the ambient temps were 85 degrees or better. Unfortunately I hadn't filled the bottle and I knew there was only a run or two left in it (probably 3 or 4 lbs in the bottle). The heater was doing it's thing, but it didn't have the "big hit" like it does when it's a full bottle. I ran 85.6 mph which is about the same as what it used to run on nitrous before blueprinting. On the third pass I ran the bottle dry so I know it could do much better if full.
Typically the 150 shot would get me an additional 7-8 mph when all conditions are optimum. This being the case I should be able to run 87 mph (or so) on the juice this summer.
It's not the 90 mph I'd hoped for, but all in all.........I'm still happy with the results.
There were some baby rollers where I was running it, and I noticed a little porpoise when running at wot and trimmed for speed. You could trim it out by lowering the diverter, but the speed would fall off some (of course). It didn't do it in the calm areas, only where the rollers were.
I've always played around with my setup stuff a lot, and noticed prior to the bottom work it would porpoise a bit if I had too much wedge up on the droop, and too much up angle on the plate. I may be able to drop this stuff down and get rid of the bow bounce.
I also installed a new automatic bilge pump when it was torn apart. Man that little dude is way cool. Worked like a champ and I'm gonna be loving it this summer (especially on the over night trips where it stays on the water).
Bottom line......................was it worth the money and effort. A resounding YES! For a measley $150 and some labor, for sure. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
Good to hear buddy, it looked like it rocked at BBSP..........( . )( . ).....Faster is cool or should I say tit,s! :cool:

[Squirtcha?]

Good to hear buddy, it looked like it rocked at BBSP
( . )( . ).....Faster is cool or should I say tits! :cool:
Yes, you should say tits.
Are you gonna make it down this year Kim? You've gotta be about ready for a break from all that cold n snow by now!

[Squirtin Thunder]

Hey Scott,
No unfortunately I've never ran it through the lights. Wish I had now though. It always had a pretty good holeshot, however it would (due to the hook I think) tend to bow bounce off the line. It'd take a couple bounces, then settle in. I didn't try any holeshot type starts so I'm not sure if that's still there or not. You might be right about it being quicker quarter mile style. We'll see at the river this summer I'm sure.
The shoe on the left is a tapered. The one on the right is a backcut. Now picture one with both characteristics. Thicker at the front than the rear, and with a backcut. It's supposed to make the boat rock back on and ride more on the plate. From what I could tell this weekend, I could still use to get the bow up a little higher to free up some more boat.
http://home.pacbell.net/jmcclure/TshoeBCshoe1.jpg
That's pretty consistent with my hardware changes. I used to switch around all kindsa stuff. Sometimes it'd be a gainer, and sometimes not, but most the time (whether good or bad) it was a mph or two.
I've seen some guys post up some huge numbers from changing a loader, shimming a shoe, raising a plate etc. Not saying it aint so..........just that I never got any huge gains by making that type of adjustment.
Someone once quote Jack (not sure if it's accurate any more) saying that with the jets, it's a bunch of little changes and the compilation of those changes that gets you the speed. Like I said, I don't know how accurate the verbage is after all these years, but it's pretty consistent with regards to my own boat. One mph here......two mph there. It all adds up eventually.
Thanks for the words of encouragement ya'll.
Sounds like you are getting there Dan.
Good Job !!!!
Jim

[flat broke]

Dan,
Thanks for posting up the pic of that tapered shoe. It gives me an idea of something I could try. I think with my boat, the biggest issue is weight. I'm trying to rock back a boat that stock weighed in at 2250lbs. I've got some balsa core here, stereo stuff there, so on and so forth, so no doubt my tug is really a tank. That combined with the bottom design might have me at a point where the leverage I have with the pump in its current location just isn't enough to help break her free. I know its a drag issue because I can see better GPS results in same setup when running accross windchop or airated water from another boat vs. smooth water with a little surface deviation.
I agree with you 100% by the way. It's the synergistic effect of all the efforts that will put boat a in the winners circle when boat b had the same HP and hull.
Chris

[Kim Hanson]

Yes, you should say tits.
Are you gonna make it down this year Kim? You've gotta be about ready for a break from all that cold n snow by now!
Im really hoping for it, but the wife wants an RV instead ( I sold our new one lastyear) Now she wants to go camping again :confused: women........( . )( . )........I still have some time for crying , pleading and begging. :D
Later Squirtya......... :chi:

[Wicky]

O.K..............Snuck up to the lake today. I have lotsa stuff to do around the house, so it was a no nonsense trip just to get some numbers. I made a half dozen passes.
First I'll say that my setup is exactly the same as it was prior to the blueprinting. Changing it around may, or may not help the numbers. Only time and some experimentation will tell.
Got it on the water and warmed it up some. My oil pressure was still a little high for the first pass or two, so it was probably a bit thick and not at optimum running temp, but here's the result anyway.
It ran a consistent 79-80 mph without the nitrous. This betters my previous no nitrous speed by 2.3 mph. It's not the 6-8 mph I had hoped for, but I'm still pretty happy with it.
I had installed a nitrous bottle heater while everything was apart. In the past I couldn't use the nitrous unless the ambient temps were 85 degrees or better. Unfortunately I hadn't filled the bottle and I knew there was only a run or two left in it (probably 3 or 4 lbs in the bottle). The heater was doing it's thing, but it didn't have the "big hit" like it does when it's a full bottle. I ran 85.6 mph which is about the same as what it used to run on nitrous before blueprinting. On the third pass I ran the bottle dry so I know it could do much better if full.
Typically the 150 shot would get me an additional 7-8 mph when all conditions are optimum. This being the case I should be able to run 87 mph (or so) on the juice this summer.
It's not the 90 mph I'd hoped for, but all in all.........I'm still happy with the results.
There were some baby rollers where I was running it, and I noticed a little porpoise when running at wot and trimmed for speed. You could trim it out by lowering the diverter, but the speed would fall off some (of course). It didn't do it in the calm areas, only where the rollers were.
I've always played around with my setup stuff a lot, and noticed prior to the bottom work it would porpoise a bit if I had too much wedge up on the droop, and too much up angle on the plate. I may be able to drop this stuff down and get rid of the bow bounce.
I also installed a new automatic bilge pump when it was torn apart. Man that little dude is way cool. Worked like a champ and I'm gonna be loving it this summer (especially on the over night trips where it stays on the water).
Bottom line......................was it worth the money and effort. A resounding YES! For a measley $150 and some labor, for sure. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
What was the weather like when you tested??
How about in comparison to last time you tested?
Just curious,
Wicky

[bakerjet]

hey Mr Dan, how does the nos treat your engine? been thinking about it myself but not sure if it's worth the risk :cool:

[steelcomp]

You probably already mentioned this, and I'm not going back to re read this whole thing to find out, but you might find some "new" performance in your ride plate/ nozle set up(s) with the new bottom. There's some effeciency to be taken advantage of there. Remember, less nozzle angle reduces downward force on the transom, which is drag. Without the hook, you might get away with less nozzle for the same bow lift. Same with the ride plate.
I'm a little confused about the backcut tapered shoe. I was under the impression one was to create lift, the other was to reduce it. Trying both at the same time seems counter productive, but hey, I'll wait and see! :D

[Squirtcha?]

Im really hoping for it, but the wife wants an RV instead ( I sold our new one lastyear) Now she wants to go camping again :confused: women........( . )( . )........I still have some time for crying , pleading and begging. :D
Later Squirtya......... :chi:
Let me know if you need me to talk to her for ya. I can be very persuasive!:hammerhea
What was the weather like when you tested??
How about in comparison to last time you tested?
Just curious,
Wicky
Hey Wicky,
My maximum best speed prior to the bottom work was taken in a variety of conditions. Everything from 70 degree days in winter to 117 degree days in summer. It was extremely consistent.
The max speed from last weekend was in 79-80 degree air temp (although I'm sure it was considerably cooler out on the water.
I know where you're going with this, and yes it's entirely possible that better conditions provided the gains. Won't know for sure until I'm able to test further.
hey Mr Dan, how does the nos treat your engine? been thinking about it myself but not sure if it's worth the risk :cool:
Bakerjet,
It's not a problem at all. I've been running my system for going on four years and everything is fine. I'd recommend it, but with a couple side notes........
1. It's not a poor man's blower. Although cheap to buy and install, the gas is expensive at $40 per fill. With a 150 hp shot I get about 10 runs out of a bottle. On a weekend when I know I'm gonna get some racing in, I'll take two. That's $80 per trip X however many trips = expensive. I usually boat every weekend (pretty much anyway) and I probably coulda bought two blowers for what I've burned in nitrous over the past four years.
2. You called it a risk. It's really not..........You can forget about some of those horror stories you've probably read about guys blowing engines up by using nitrous. As long as you have the correct amount of fuel/pressure and the proper jets (recommended by the manufacturer) it's not going to hurt anything. Obviously any performance enhancer will take something away from you engine life, but with a 150 shot I believe it to be fairly minimal. I don't even run any kind of timing box or nitrous controls and it hasn't been an issue.
You probably already mentioned this, and I'm not going back to re read this whole thing to find out, but you might find some "new" performance in your ride plate/ nozle set up(s) with the new bottom. There's some effeciency to be taken advantage of there. Remember, less nozzle angle reduces downward force on the transom, which is drag. Without the hook, you might get away with less nozzle for the same bow lift. Same with the ride plate.
I'm a little confused about the backcut tapered shoe. I was under the impression one was to create lift, the other was to reduce it. Trying both at the same time seems counter productive, but hey, I'll wait and see! :D
Scott,
Yeah, I think I did mention that that's where I'm going on the tweakage. Drop the snoot down a degree, lower the rideplate some and try it again.
As for the shoes, I'm no pump guy, and many times my information is skewed. You might wanna ask somebody that really knows what they're talking about.

[Duane HTP]

I'm a little confused about the backcut tapered shoe. I was under the impression one was to create lift, the other was to reduce it. Trying both at the same time seems counter productive, but hey, I'll wait and see!
The tapered shoe lifts the NOSE of the boat. (lets it rock back on the plate).
The back cut shoe raises the TAIL of the boat. (or the whole boat).

[flat broke]

Duane,
I'm having a bit of a tough time visualizing a back cut tapered shoe like Dan was trying to illustrate. Do you have one you could post a pic of? It seems to me that if you started with a tapered shoe, and then put say a 2* back cut on it measured from the leading edge, you'd basically create a point in the shoe surface, whereby it would be back cut part way towards the back of the shoe, come to a point, then taper back down to the rideplate thickness in back. Am I visualizing this correctly?
Chris

[Cs19]

I agree, but i dont see how hes going to incorporate both a taper shoe and BC shoe into one piece and benefit from both.
I would think this boat needs some BC,and BL mentioned some close off, thats probably something to look into also, if you dont have some already.
Good job Dan,keep up the hard work!!!

[Cs19]

Ah, you beat me to it.
A thought..He could have the outer sides (where the 1/4-20s are) cut on a tapered angle, and the center section cut on a BC, but I think that would bring up another set of problems.I also seriously doubt the small amount of tapered angle in the shoe would help the boat at all.
I might be wrong, but Im yet to see a shoe like that.

[flat broke]

Chris,
I'm thinking the same thing on the taper. I seriously doubt ( and especially on my pig of a boat) that the small amount of taper would establish enough of a fulcrum to get the boat to take that set. I can see where running say a 4* taper with a 4) up in the rideplate would tend to make the plane of the rideplate/shoe more even, but it also seems like it would basically bet dropping the bitting edge of the shoe down a litle to as you would have to have more material in front to taper the shoe back. Dan didn't seem to like the shut down with the shoe shimmed down, so that would be somethin to think about.
You gonna be on Monrovia today? I might bring the boat by as I need some input on things under the boat before I start cutting any more on my shoe.
Chris

[Duane HTP]

I would think this boat needs some BC,and BL mentioned some close off
Yeah, some BC, BL, and a little BS sometimes helps.
HA! Sorry, I just couldn't resist. No offense intended for anyone.
Flatbroke, you're getting close. Only the back cut ususally goes all the way to the very point that the ride plate starts at. At that point, you have gained the lift from the back cut, and now you are trying to run the boat at the attitude that the taper produces. Is that clear as mud??

[Duane HTP]

I seriously doubt ( and especially on my pig of a boat) that the small amount of taper would establish enough of a fulcrum to get the boat to take that set.
This is probably true in your case. We're getting pretty techinal here as in a highly tuned race boat.
A lot of times this is what happens on these threads. They start with a 60 mph boat and end up on what might work on a 140 mph boat. So not everything you read here necessarily works on your boat. But they do work on some boats. It can get confusing to say the least.

[ChetCapoli]

Ah, you beat me to it.
A thought..He could have the outer sides (where the 1/4-20s are) cut on a tapered angle, and the center section cut on a BC, but I think that would bring up another set of problems.I also seriously doubt the small amount of tapered angle in the shoe would help the boat at all.
I might be wrong, but Im yet to see a shoe like that.
hmmm...geez this is my kinda thread. Looks like that "shoe made of gold" doesnt work to well for mr. squirtcha there.....he bought into the hype instead of using his god given talent. Nice bottom work btw squirtcha. For the record mr "9sec" CS19(mind if i call ya 9sec for short? :D) your a little off on your assessment here. You just do what everyone else does, run a tunnel,put big power to it and tent outside of base camp and do what they tell ya. BINGO you go fast and rant and rave on how good the "blueprint for sucess" you follow is. Look "outside" the box sometime you might learn something. :) I'd like to see you try a boat like mr. squirtcha here or even my old junker and make it run. Now thats work bottom line. I give him alot of credit believe it or not. Do you know what shoe made my boat run the best?? Care to guess ol noble one? A backcut tapered shoe thats what along with a V blocker. Funny i think i mentioned this to squirtcha in the 8mph bolt on"golden snoot" thread. Strange how the "golden" ideas dont work very well eh? Maybe those "off the wall" ones would?
What does work though is crawling under there 10 or 15 times till your back hurts and try stuff.....ALL stuff(it has the fit the "budget" of course). Squirtchas boat needs more nose up and that taper will make his boat squat enough to do so. Go back to the droop and 90 just might be there. There was 4mph to be had with a tapered/bc shoe in my boat in case anyone wants to know......
CHET

[flat broke]

Chet,
Thanks for posting your experiences with your hardware. If you hadn't started the post with a veiled bash on CS, it would have been nice, but whatever. I think you're right that the 15 times under the boat is worth something, so long as you're taking notes and making logical a progression (not saying that you weren't).
I'm still not following Duane 100% on the shoe, but I'll hit that up in another post.
Chris

[flat broke]

Flatbroke, you're getting close. Only the back cut ususally goes all the way to the very point that the ride plate starts at. At that point, you have gained the lift from the back cut, and now you are trying to run the boat at the attitude that the taper produces. Is that clear as mud??
Mud indeed. If I use my shoe as an example(should have shot some pics before I slapped it in the boat), from the leading edge to the joint at the ride plate, there is a 2 degree angle. This is what I would consider a back cut shoe. The ramp created by the machining sits between the bolts that hold the shoe in on the side.
How I understand your post is that the shoe would be back cut just like I did on mine... So where does the taper come in? From the rideplate rising up and way in the oposite direction of the back cut? If your ride plate bent only at the shoe(which isn't how they work, but for illustration purposes) a boat with a 2* back cut shoe and 5* up in the plate would produce a point at the rideplate/shoe junction. That point would basically be a 187* angle, and the taper you are refering would be anything to the rear of that point, and the back cut would be infront of it?
Just tryin to get this straight in my head.
Chris

[Jeanyus]

hmmm...geez this is my kinda thread. Looks like that "shoe made of gold" doesnt work to well for mr. squirtcha there.....he bought into the hype instead of using his god given talent. Nice bottom work btw squirtcha. For the record mr "9sec" CS19(mind if i call ya 9sec for short? :D) your a little off on your assessment here. You just do what everyone else does, run a tunnel,put big power to it and tent outside of base camp and do what they tell ya. BINGO you go fast and rant and rave on how good the "blueprint for sucess" you follow is. Look "outside" the box sometime you might learn something. :) I'd like to see you try a boat like mr. squirtcha here or even my old junker and make it run. Now thats work bottom line. I give him alot of credit believe it or not. Do you know what shoe made my boat run the best?? Care to guess ol noble one? A backcut tapered shoe thats what along with a V blocker. Funny i think i mentioned this to squirtcha in the 8mph bolt on"golden snoot" thread. Strange how the "golden" ideas dont work very well eh? Maybe those "off the wall" ones would?
What does work though is crawling under there 10 or 15 times till your back hurts and try stuff.....ALL stuff(it has the fit the "budget" of course). Squirtchas boat needs more nose up and that taper will make his boat squat enough to do so. Go back to the droop and 90 just might be there. There was 4mph to be had with a tapered/bc shoe in my boat in case anyone wants to know......
CHET
I'll get out the boat catalog and order some "stuff" to make my boat faster.
I looked under "stuff" and they don't sell any. Guess I'll have to get advice from experts. And I'm not talking about you.

[likwidsukr]

Yeah, I agree with you and Ken. Especially since I developed that little porpoise deal. If the water was flat, it did just fine. Hit a couple little rollers and get it going, and you'd have to adjust the trim to settle it down.
I always play with setup stuff, it's kinda my thing. Typical "Can't leave well enough alone" mentality. Might experiment with some different loaders and possibly a tapered backcut shoe too.
Other than setup stuff, I'm done with the Kachina. If I can get it to do 90 mph that's probably all the faster I'd want to run this hull anyway. If I wanna go faster than that, I'll start shopping for a tunnelhull.
Dan
Im sorry Im sure you have said this on several occasions but what is the weight of your bare hull? Have you ever checked? Man it is almost @ 90 mph that is awesome. I have really enjoyed the progress and look forward to your next project!!
Steve

[Squirtin Thunder]

I'll get out the boat catalog and order some "stuff" to make my boat faster.
I looked under "stuff" and they don't sell any. Guess I'll have to get advice from experts. And I'm not talking about you.
Jeanyus,
Dude I have some special stuff that you could try !!! I also have a complete package of stuff to replace alll your old stuff that would make your stuff fly !!!
The Man with the stuff

[likwidsukr]

Jeanyus,
Dude I have some special stuff that you could try !!! I also have a complete package of stuff to replace alll your old stuff that would make your stuff fly !!!
The Man with the stuff
Jim did you ever sell the 460 block??
Steve

[Cs19]

hmmm...geez this is my kinda thread. Looks like that "shoe made of gold" doesnt work to well for mr. squirtcha there.....he bought into the hype instead of using his god given talent. Nice bottom work btw squirtcha. For the record mr "9sec" CS19(mind if i call ya 9sec for short? :D) your a little off on your assessment here. You just do what everyone else does, run a tunnel,put big power to it and tent outside of base camp and do what they tell ya. BINGO you go fast and rant and rave on how good the "blueprint for sucess" you follow is. Look "outside" the box sometime you might learn something. :) I'd like to see you try a boat like mr. squirtcha here or even my old junker and make it run. Now thats work bottom line. I give him alot of credit believe it or not. Do you know what shoe made my boat run the best?? Care to guess ol noble one? A backcut tapered shoe thats what along with a V blocker. Funny i think i mentioned this to squirtcha in the 8mph bolt on"golden snoot" thread. Strange how the "golden" ideas dont work very well eh? Maybe those "off the wall" ones would?
What does work though is crawling under there 10 or 15 times till your back hurts and try stuff.....ALL stuff(it has the fit the "budget" of course). Squirtchas boat needs more nose up and that taper will make his boat squat enough to do so. Go back to the droop and 90 just might be there. There was 4mph to be had with a tapered/bc shoe in my boat in case anyone wants to know......
CHET
Ted Capoli,
Whos to say the shoe doesnt work? Just because he says he thinks he needs something different, that declares the shoe doesnt work? Thats just ridiculous.No offence to Squirtcha, but he said himself, hes not exactly sure what direction to go.I'm not saying it does work, I don't even remember what hes running, but lets be realistic before we get into it.
Dan mentioned he wants more up in the nose, is running a "chet special" tapered b/c shoe the only way to get that kind of lift?
Thats it, Im trading in my 115 mph Daytona for a southwind v-bottom to see if i can hit 90 to prove chet wrong,another thing is, this daytona I have just isnt challenging enough for me, and "everybody" has them so forget it,time for a real challenge, 70s v-bottom.
Ya know i need to try that thing Chet mentioned..Getting under the boat 15 times a day, Ive never tried that. :rolleyes: Show up sometime and see for yourself, your not the only one with a sore back.

[Nucking futs]

Whos Chet???????
:D
Great job Dan. I can't wait to see it run.
Tim

[Cs19]

Yeah, some BC, BL, and a little BS sometimes helps.
:D

[Squirtcha?]

Leave it to Chet to "F" up an otherwise pretty good post. Nice going dude.
You should write a book. "How not to make friends and influence people".
Sorry this one went to hell guys.
Likwid. The Southwind boyz probably know better than I on the hull weight. I really have no idea. I think it's pretty danged heavy though.
Chris (CS19) is correct. I've basically never "been sure" of what to do next. I just try whatever my budget will allow, or I'm capable of doing myself.
Beats hell outa me how Chet can bash a normally aspirated boat that runs 115 mph and in the 9's.
Pure stupidity.

[Nucking futs]

Leave it to Chet to "F" up an otherwise pretty good post. Nice going dude.
Beats hell outa me how Chet can bash a normally asipirated boat that runs 115 mph and in the 9's.
Pure stupidity.
ON PUMP GAS !!!!!!!

[Cs19]

Sorry Dan, I should've bit my lip again.
N.Futs is right, Whos Chet?
Carry on.

[Jeanyus]

Dan
Good job on the bottom blueprint . I learn a lot from your posts. I wish I was as ambitious as you are. It would be interesting to see how your boat does in the 1/4 mile.
P.S. loosing weight to make your boat faster is cheating. Said the fat guy.

[bakerjet]

thanks Dan i'm sold, gonna make the nos happen!! :idea:

[Hotfish]

Dan I think our boats weigh in at 600#'s

[Squirtcha?]

Sorry Dan, I should've bit my lip again.
I don't think so..........It pisses me off when an unwarranted attack happens. No need for that crap. I know people will have different opinions, but there's no need for the shit slingin.
Dan
Good job on the bottom blueprint . I learn a lot from your posts. I wish I was as ambitious as you are. It would be interesting to see how your boat does in the 1/4 mile.
P.S. loosing weight to make your boat faster is cheating. Said the fat guy.
Thanks, I explain it to my friends that ask me why this way....... If I wasn't doing boat stuff...........I'd be doing yard work. Easy choice in my book! You should see my yard though!:cry:
thanks Dan i'm sold, gonna make the nos happen!! :idea:
Do it up, it's a hoot!
Dan I think our boats weigh in at 600#'s
Thanks Kev
I learned something new today. :p

[Duane HTP]

Flat Broke, give me a call. I think I can explain it to you over the phone much easier. Anyway I'll sure give it a try. 316-794-8616 Duane HTP

[bp]

http://home.pacbell.net/jmcclure/TshoeBCshoe1.jpg
just to recap, so everyone here is on the same page (even chet/ted), the shoe pictured to the left, above is called a tapered shoe. the shoe pictured to the right, above is called a backcut shoe.
when installed, a backcut shoe angles down, from the biting edge to the trailing edge of the shoe.
when installed, a tapered shoe angles up, from the biting edge to the trailing edge of the shoe.
generally, when trying different shoes, they should be initially installed with the biting edge at the same depth that the previous shoes biting edge was installed at, then adjust as needed.
also generally, if the boat is too tight, a backcut shoe can provide more lift. this can be helpful to a moderate/heavier boat, helping it get up earlier, and make it quicker. of course, you won't really be able to demonstrate that unless you're testing on clocks.
final generally, a boat may not need additonal lift. a flat or tapered shoe
may provide an adequate set. the only way to determine this is continued testing, and several times under the boat, and having someone watching that knows what they're looking at.

[likwidsukr]

Dan I think our boats weigh in at 600#'s
That was my guess. Cool 90 mph 600lb hull No blower Dan, Nice job!!

[LakesOnly]

Good deal, Dan. You personally completed a big undertaking and saw results the first time it was back in the water. :) As already stated, there's likely more gains ahead with a little tweak here and there.
Props, (no pun intended)
LO

[Squirtcha?]

Props, (no pun intended)LO
Snicker snicker
Thanks Paul

[Taylorman]

Snicker snicker
Thanks Paul
Lay off the snickers, your on a diet. :D :D :D

[jamessampica]

Dan great job buddy.I think i hear a trip to the lake again and try some hardware changes like last time.I have some ideas that might help you hit 90mph.Come on warm weather i'm ready to burn up some fuel and make some noise.I have the need for speed really bad.LATER!!!!!!
JIM S
P.S.Again Dan good job!!!!!

[Danhercules]

Way to go Dan.
i am gonna be out this week again, so I will take a look and see what you did wrong so you can squeeze some more MPH out of it, you know cause I am such a pro!! :hammerhea