Starting engine after sitting over winter.

[1978 Rogers]

What should be the procedure for starting my boat's engine after sitting for the winter (since October)? How do I minimize dry start damage? Fuel stabalizer has been added, fogging oil has beed squirted in cylinders and down carb.

[Danhercules]

I think your gonna be fine. If your are really anal, I would pull the dist and prime the oil pump. But as I said, I think your fine to start it as it is.

[1978 Rogers]

How do you prime the oil pump? I'm not a mechanic.

[BrendellaJet]

Unless you want to learn how to yank the distributor/re-install and Time the motor, leave it as is and turn the key.
It isn't hard to do, just need a timing light and you can probably rent the priming tool at the local auto parts store...

[Danhercules]

Accually, you can buy it, 15 bucks for mine.
you have to take out the dist, but mark where it is first, rotor and the housing, When the dist is out, look at the bottom of the shaft and gear, there is a hex, that hex drives the oil pump. The tool looks like a long socket extenion, not as thinck, with the hex on the other end. Ya put it in a drill and pull the trigger the direction that the dist spins. You can take off your oil fill on the valve cover and see the oil getting spread all over. Then put the dist back in. Should only take bout 1/2 hr.

[flat broke]

Just to clarify what Dan is saying, you need to mark the distributor when the piston in the number 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center before you start doing anything. Honestly, if you're not mechanically inclined and the boat ran to your liking when you put it away, just make sure there is fresh gas in the float bowls of the carb, and that the battery is toped off, and she should fire up as normal when you start her.
Chris

[LakesOnly]

Rogers,
If the above is too complicated for you, then simply remove the spark plugs, crank the engine until your oil pressure gage shows pressure, reinstall the plugs and fire it up.
LO

[1978 Rogers]

Thank you for all the advice. I'm getting the itch pretty bad to put the boat in the water. It was in the mid 50's last week. I can't wait.

[OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET]

Rogers,
If the above is too complicated for you, then simply remove the spark plugs, crank the engine until your oil pressure gage shows pressure, reinstall the plugs and fire it up.
LO
I have heard this before and personally I don't understand it. dead cranking an engine seems like it would be more harmful than firing it up and building oil pressure quicker. By removing the plugs the engine will turn over slower and take longer to build pressure than it would if you just fire it up and let it idle. :confused: I personally crank my boat once a month during the winter and let it idle for around 45 seconds to a minute to keep everything lubed. Hopefully someone can splain this logic to me.
Omega

[BrendellaJet]

if you pull the plugs out the motor will turn faster with less resistance(than if you just pull the coil to avoid ignition)

[Tahiti350]

Rogers,
I have the priming tool (homemade), a 1/2 " drill, and a timing light. When do you want to pre-lube it?? I believe the Chevy dist housing fits Olds block, Gear is removed so no problems there.
GaryB> Tahiti350

[LakesOnly]

I have heard this before and personally I don't understand it. dead cranking an engine seems like it would be more harmful than firing it up and building oil pressure quicker. By removing the plugs the engine will turn over slower and take longer to build pressure than it would if you just fire it up and let it idle. :confused:
Whether the plugs are pulled or not, the engine will take approximately the same number of crankshaft revolutions to build oil pressure; it is not quicker with a running engine, per se.
Indeed, mine is not the best alternative; rather, cranking w/o plugs is the last alternative.
The reason it is better than firing a dry motor is because there is much, much less load on the rotating assembly since there is no compression and more importantly, no combustion forces hammering the dry rod bearings down on the crank throws before oil pressure has built up. One you see oil pressure, re-install the plugs and load the engine.
Another issue about firing a dry motor is that most people are so desperate to get the motor to light up that they mash the gas pedal down (or even add gas down the carburetor) and then when it lights it hits 3000 rpm instantly, before oil pressure has had a chance to build. big no-no.
One area that my recommended method does not address is the cam bearings, and this is of special note because all winter long, some valves have remained open and the open spring pressures have been pressing all the oil film out from the cam journals. This is the primary reason why it is best to build oil pressure before turning the key. But based on Roger's limited motor knowledge, I went ahead and presumed the motor was relatively stock and had low valve spring pressures. I have started old passenger cars this way that had sat for over ten years and had no problems... besides, at appromately 200 rpm cranking speed w/o the plugs, the cam is turning only half of that...less friction, etc...
I personally crank my boat once a month during the winter and let it idle for around 45 seconds to a minute to keep everything lubed.
Omega
That is wise and is probably the best advice...
LO