Pushrods

[likwidsukr]

What pushrods would I need to go with this kit???
THIS IS AN ISKY COMPLETE ROLLER CAM KIT FOR A 429 / 460 FORD.
~ FULL ROLLER CAM : INTAKE & EXHAUST VALVE LIFT AT.050 IS .714
DURATION AT .050 IS ~ INTAKE 278 deg.
EXHAUST AT .050 IS 284 deg.
LOBE CENTER IS 112 deg.
VALVE LASH IS .028 HOT FOR BOTH
GRIND NO. IS RR-714/278/284
~ TITANUIM RETAINERS : PART NO. 975-TI
~ VALVE LOCKS : PART NO. VL 700
~ VALVE SPRINGS : TYPE (DUAL W/DAMPER),H-11 PART # 9705
TOOL STEEL 1.079, 1.625 od .767,
1.189 id SEAT PRESSURE ` 250lb @
1.950 OPEN PRESSURE 675lb @ 1.200
RATE PER INCH 570 COIL BIND
~ ROLLER LIFTERS : PART # 312-RH
~ BRONZE DISTRIBUTOR GEAR & SPRING SHIMS
THIS CAM IS A FULL ROLLER COMPETITION ONLY (SUPER GAS/ SUPER COMP). REQUIREMENTS TO RUN THIS CAM : HIGH COMPRESSION, TUNNEL RAM INTAKE W/ TWO CARBURETORS, RPM RANGE 4000-8200. :hammerhea :hammerhea :hammerhea
jetboat

[Squirtcha?]

You may have to either buy, or make a set of adjustable pushrods to get the correct length. I made a set for mine. Just cut one end off each of the old pushrods, cut threads into them, then used some allthread (with correct threads per inch) and added jamb nuts so you can lock em in once you find out how long they need to be.
Screw the ends out as needed, lock the jamb nuts down, then remove and measure when setup is correct.
Probably too many variables for someone to just spit out a number for ya.
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19110-1092_IMG-med.JPG

[Heatseeker]

The best thng to do is to get a pair of pushrod length checkers.
This page tells you how to get the proper length using the checkers:
Pushrod length (http://compcams.com/Technical/Products/Pushrods/)
Squirtcha beat me to the punch!

[likwidsukr]

Dan, John
I just knew it wasnt goin to be just an easy buy LOL :hammerhea
Thanks though. it is on ebay for @ 400.00 or so this kit goes for 1300.00 +
Steve

[likwidsukr]

You may have to either buy, or make a set of adjustable pushrods to get the correct length. I made a set for mine. Just cut one end off each of the old pushrods, cut threads into them, then used some allthread (with correct threads per inch) and added jamb nuts so you can lock em in once you find out how long they need to be.
Screw the ends out as needed, lock the jamb nuts down, then remove and measure when setup is correct.
Probably too many variables for someone to just spit out a number for ya.
http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/data/500/19110-1092_IMG-med.JPG
Good idea here but do they stay put?

[likwidsukr]

The best thng to do is to get a pair of pushrod length checkers.
This page tells you how to get the proper length using the checkers:
Pushrod length (http://compcams.com/Technical/Products/Pushrods/)
Squirtcha beat me to the punch!
John,
Good website thanks for the info. I guess I need to do some research.

[HoffmanEagleMarine]

Likwidsukr, I'm a little partial to Comp Cams stuff and have had good luck with their valve train components and large roller cams. The Dual Taper 7/16" .125" wall would be my first choice, while 7/16" .080" would work too. It sounds like stock length or Chevy tall deck(8.675") might work. Comp's book shows the .080" wall thickness for all of their large roller cams from .600" and up. You'll have to check the geometry for lengths needed..........Doug :idea:

[Heatseeker]

I gave up on setting up mine. I took it to the shop and had them do it!
Some things are better left to the pros! :cool:

[Squirtcha?]

Good idea here but do they stay put?
Yes, they'll stay put. If you're using double or triple springs it's best to remove all but the outmost spring. It won't affect the check for length and will reduce the amount of pressure to actuate the valve. You're only turning it over by hand and they held fine for that.
No doubt the factory made ones like in John's link are probably more accurate and stronger though.
I'm a shoestring budget, garage/shadetree kinda guy trying to save a buck here n there when possible. It worked fine for my little hydraulic flat tappet setup.

[likwidsukr]

I'm a shoestring budget, garage/shadetree kinda guy trying to save a buck here n there when possible. It worked fine for my little hydraulic flat tappet setup.
yep that is what I'm on :hammer2:
See my other post in jets called I NEED PARTS

[Heatseeker]

Dan, I think yous are probably stronger than the bought ones.
They recommend using a light spring for checking.
I'm a DIY guy myself. Unfortunately, my heads were already installed when I realized I need a special length pushrod. I bent one of my checkers trying to check with the complete springs installed on the heads. I was rushed to get it done, so I had to take it in.

[steelcomp]

If you really want to understand rocker geometry, go to Jim Miller's web site...I think it's millerrockers.com. or millerracing.com. There's pages of info that will help you understand what to look for in rocker geometry. I'll tell you this, I've read almost every cam catalogue from Isky to Comp to Crane, Crower, etc. and NONE of them got it right. The little plastic pushrod length checkers are worthless. Learn what you're looking for and why, and then you can KNOW your geometry is right (or not, and then you can fix it). This is one of the most overlooked, but most critical places there is in building an engine, and with that cam you're going to use, it's more critical than ever. There's a whole list of things you are going to need to check when you shove that stick in your block, so better start making a list. :D
I just read the Comp geometry page that's linked above. Just as I thought...they're wrong. If your rocker tip travels from one side to the other as it states, your push rod is too short. Your rocker does NOT want to be centered on the valve tip at mid lift. Read the Miller info...you'll see what I mean.

[likwidsukr]

There's a whole list of things you are going to need to check when you shove that stick in your block, so better start making a list. :D
Tell me about it!!
I am not sure i am goin to get it or not!!

[steelcomp]

Dude...it's not rocket science...just try and follow the motion of the parts, and understand what they're trying to accomplish. Don't sell yourself short, and don't overcomplicate it. One step at a time. I've spent countless hours just watching things do what it is they're supposed to do. Mock up your stuff with some light springs. Go to the hardware store, or buy some checking springs. Don't use valve springs, even just the outers. Too stiff. (sorry Dan...not trying to step on your toes...just done this too many times) Put your crank in your block with an old set of bearings. Just the two end brgs, and the thrust. Put no. one piston and rod together, and put it in the motor with no rings, again, with an old bearing, and just snug up the rod nuts. Sllide the cam in, put on a gear and chain, and mock up no. one intake and exhaust in the head, set it on with an old gasket, and just put a few head bolts in and snug them down. It's easy. Take an afternoon and do this. Clean your parts good before you start, and give yourself a good clean work area. Once you mock it up, just play with it, Roll it around, frontwards and back, change things, move things, and see what happens. Watch the motion of the rocker. Watch the tip of the rocker on the valve. Take what you read, or what someone tells you, and see what they're talking about. How does that apply? What did they mean by ....? Change your checking pushrod length and watch what happens. Watch the piston go up and down from underneath, inside the crank case, and notice how close stuff comes. Imagine that happening at 6000 or 7000 or 10000 rpm. Take notes. Play with the stuff and have fun doing it. You'll figure it out. To me, that's what it's all about. The journey, not the destination. :D :coffeycup

[Squirtcha?]

Go to the hardware store, or buy some checking springs. Don't use valve springs, even just the outers. Too stiff. (sorry Dan...not trying to step on your toes...just done this too many times)
No sweat Scott. I was a first timer so didn't have the benefit of all that experience behind me. Mine actually came out pretty good, although I'm sure the hydraulic setup is at least a little more forgiving than a solid setup. The valve stem stays well centered under the roller tips through the full range of motion. Might've just gotten lucky though.
Valvetrain geometry (http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/4635/)
http://circletrack.com/techarticles/p35097_image_large.jpg

[Squirtin Thunder]

Tell me about it!!
I am not sure i am goin to get it or not!!
Stop thinking so hard !!!
It is very simple. Here is the only thing that really matters, you want the roller or rocker tip to pull in twards the center of the valve stem at full open, outside of engine in.
Good Luck
Jim

[likwidsukr]

Dude...it's not rocket science...just try and follow the motion of the parts, and understand what they're trying to accomplish. Don't sell yourself short, and don't overcomplicate it. One step at a time. I've spent countless hours just watching things do what it is they're supposed to do. Mock up your stuff with some light springs. Go to the hardware store, or buy some checking springs. Don't use valve springs, even just the outers. Too stiff. (sorry Dan...not trying to step on your toes...just done this too many times) Put your crank in your block with an old set of bearings. Just the two end brgs, and the thrust. Put no. one piston and rod together, and put it in the motor with no rings, again, with an old bearing, and just snug up the rod nuts. Sllide the cam in, put on a gear and chain, and mock up no. one intake and exhaust in the head, set it on with an old gasket, and just put a few head bolts in and snug them down. It's easy. Take an afternoon and do this. Clean your parts good before you start, and give yourself a good clean work area. Once you mock it up, just play with it, Roll it around, frontwards and back, change things, move things, and see what happens. Watch the motion of the rocker. Watch the tip of the rocker on the valve. Take what you read, or what someone tells you, and see what they're talking about. How does that apply? What did they mean by ....? Change your checking pushrod length and watch what happens. Watch the piston go up and down from underneath, inside the crank case, and notice how close stuff comes. Imagine that happening at 6000 or 7000 or 10000 rpm. Take notes. Play with the stuff and have fun doing it. You'll figure it out. To me, that's what it's all about. The journey, not the destination. :D :coffeycup
Scott this is a learning road for me. My first "build" alone. It is easy to throw stuff together just looking to do it right. Like i said easy to "throw together" but to work is a little more difficult. i am reading all resposes and learning as I go. Its funny how much a person can learn from alot of other peoples mistakes!!
Steve

[likwidsukr]

It is much easier than it all seems. To make things easier I used a felt tip marker and colored the top of the valve stem to give a witness of where the roller was traveling on the surface after a revolution. Once you establish the center line you measure the lenght of your adjustable push rod an your done.
Sometime's the words used in technical writing can be intimidating, once you do one you will laugh... GO FOR IT!!!
Good idea!! i will see if that helps as well.

[likwidsukr]

Stop thinking so hard !!!
It is very simple. Here is the only thing that really matters, you want the roller or rocker tip to pull in twards the center of the valve stem at full open, outside of engine in.
Good Luck
Jim
Dont worry Jim I will call and bug the livin shit out of you!