Jetboat wiring harness

[Mr.&Mrs.Budlight]

Ok guys, Who makes a wiring harness for jetboats? I thought painless wiring did but I can't find it now. Budlight :idea:

[Heatseeker]

You can get one from CP Performance (http://www.cpperformance.com/products/Electrical/wiring-harness.htm) . They're made by Hardin Marine.

[Cs19]

L&L Marine in Anaheim,Ca. They probably make them for all the other companys.Give them a call.
I made my own for my boat, its very simple.
Hows the new boat coming?

[Fogged Gullwing]

Budlight,
Just like the beer you drink that is weak!!!! Wiring is just adult connect the dots for adults! The best wiring is usually from the owner of the Boat. Do it yourself and you will be happier than if some hack did it and your floating down the river when Juan's wiring shorts out!!!!!!. It is not that hard to do! I still can't beleive how many people farm this sh!t out? Positive wire + Negetive wire - Duhhhhhh. I really don't care if you hate this response but it really is fundamental. The only reason that people with with hod rods use painless is because they cant work on there own sh!t. That's why people like Boyd Cock$ucker can have a TV Show. If you can build a big bad blown BBC for it you can wire it!!!!
Watch out the 19' gullwing with the big unit will be on the river this spring!!!
BK

[BGMAN203]

L&L Marine in Anaheim,Ca. They probably make them for all the other companys.Give them a call.
I made my own for my boat, its very simple.
Hows the new boat coming?
I think L&L is in Corona now.

[Danhercules]

I think L&L is in Corona now.
Yup, on Smith. Last building headin north on the left. Just before the Corona Airport.

[berk]

Budlight,
Just like the beer you drink that is weak!!!! Wiring is just adult connect the dots for adults! The best wiring is usually from the owner of the Boat. Do it yourself and you will be happier than if some hack did it and your floating down the river when Juan's wiring shorts out!!!!!!. It is not that hard to do! I still can't beleive how many people farm this sh!t out? Positive wire + Negetive wire - Duhhhhhh. I really don't care if you hate this response but it really is fundamental. The only reason that people with with hod rods use painless is because they cant work on there own sh!t. That's why people like Boyd Cock$ucker can have a TV Show. If you can build a big bad blown BBC for it you can wire it!!!!
Watch out the 19' gullwing with the big unit will be on the river this spring!!!
BK
ok tough guy what about fuses? i need to add a block and fuse all my wires, as they are not now.

[Jake W2]

Berk the only thing you will need to fuse will be the power to all the guages ect.They do not need afuse for every one.
It is alot more easy than you would think to wire a boat.
Jake

[Fogged Gullwing]

Well I'm not feeling especialy tough right now but if you can't figure that out for yourself? You better get someone to do it for you!!!! Duhhhhh!!!!! Fuse blocks as Butthead would say Huh Huh Huh Huh!!!!!
BK

[sdba069]

I build all my harnesses, but only because there is no one, that I know of, in this part of the world that has them. I used to get them from Benrock in Tulsa, but they quit carrying them years ago. You can sure tie up a lot of time building them. If someone has contact info for a supplier, besides CP, that has them, I'd appreciate you passing it on. I'm a CP dealer, but if I could go direct to the manufacturer, that would be great.

[Mr.&Mrs.Budlight]

Hey guys, I know how to wire my boat from scratch. But the last 68 camaro I wired used a painless wiring harness and it was very nice to have the wire marked for every function, already done on one end . Sure I can wire it from scratch but if you are troubleshooting a problem, it's nice to have marked wires. Just my two cents. Budlight :idea:

[sdba069]

I use a standard BIA wiring code on all of my stuff. It's the same color codes used by all the manufacturers. If you are familiar with the color code, deciphering the wiring in a boat that uses that code is easy.

[ARS Marine inc.east]

I build all my harnesses, but only because there is no one, that I know of, in this part of the world that has them. I used to get them from Benrock in Tulsa, but they quit carrying them years ago. You can sure tie up a lot of time building them. If someone has contact info for a supplier, besides CP, that has them, I'd appreciate you passing it on. I'm a CP dealer, but if I could go direct to the manufacturer, that would be great.
Contac Supplier
Tim Spears
Pro Boat
Mo
# 770 928 1533

[78Southwind]

I build all my harnesses, but only because there is no one, that I know of, in this part of the world that has them. I used to get them from Benrock in Tulsa, but they quit carrying them years ago. You can sure tie up a lot of time building them. If someone has contact info for a supplier, besides CP, that has them, I'd appreciate you passing it on. I'm a CP dealer, but if I could go direct to the manufacturer, that would be great.
Gary
Like all the other guys mentioned L&L Marine makes standard wiring harnesses and custom to order harnesses. 800-969-7278 Just follow the link http://www.llmarine.com/

[steelcomp]

The only thing I can offer about wiring your own boat is that if you have big electronic ignition, or electric fuel pumps, don't switch them from the dash. Use relays, and get the main power source for the units closer to the battery. Use the switch on the dash to activate a relay, but DO NOT run a wire from the battery, all the way to the dash, then all the way back to the ig. or fuel pump. Too much voltage drop and that's how electrical components burn up. This is probably more the reason so many guys lose electric fuel pumps than you'd like to believe. That and like Gary said, color code your wiring. Even if you don't follow the mfgr's code, make a little schematic or "map" of your wiring, and the colors you use. Then if you do have a problem, you can pull out your schematic and know which wire is what. It IS time consuming to do it right, so if you do it yourself, take your time. :coffeycup

[Taylor LP]

Make sure you use marine grade wire. It's tinned inside throughout the whole length so you wont get corrosion inside the insulation where you can't see it.

[sdba069]

Very good point

[PC Rat]

I was thinking about the tinned wire issue. I drive my pickup in the snow, slush, rain, through puddles, salted roads etc. and it doesn't have tinned wire. The boat is a nice weather only toy and the inside doesn't get too wet. Just trying to figure out if I really need tinned wire at 4X the price.
Brian

[steelcomp]

When I do wire ends (terminals), I pull the stupid little plastic insulator off the crimp end. I tin the end of the wire and then crimp the lug, but with a different crimper...one that won't pull off. Then I solder. After that, (actually before that...you need to remember to slide your shrink on before you crimp.), I double layer shrink wrap about 3/4" down the insulation letting the outer layer overlap the end of the first, by about 1/8-1/4". Sealed up tight. Shrink also acts as a strain relief if, for some reason, the wire gets tugged on. I also use Weatherpack connectors anywhere there's a connector. :coffeycup

[Mr.&Mrs.Budlight]

Steelcomp, Sounds like you should have very little electrial problems. Your right, take the time to do it right the first time and it will be smooth sailing from then on!! [you can't sail a jetboat except from too much power] Thanks Budlight

[flat broke]

Budlight.
Painless makes fuseblocks which you could use in conjunction with your own wiring. Gonna be cheaper to build your own loom than to buy one. Also, most of those looms don't come with enough lines built in for some of us. Start thinking about all the gauges you might have on the dash, other items like an MSD, fuel pumps, diverters etc.
The way I'm redoing mine is kinda like a Telco distibution model(its what I'm familiar with ;) ) There will be terminal blocks at the bulkhead by the dash, and back in the engine compartment. There will be a separate wire for each function I currently need between the dash and the engine compartment as well as 2 or 3 spare runs for future expansion. This loom will be installed, tie wrapped up nice and never have to be touched again. You then make your dash end and and engine compartment ends and connect them to the terminal blocks. If you want to add fuses, you can get fused terminal blocks as well, or mount a separate fuse block between your switches and terminal block.
I've found that a lot of us make somewhat drastic changes to our setups. For me this meant stringing new wire runs from the dash to the enine compartment. Over time, its very hard to sanitize this installation method. By creating a fixed "pipeline" of wires between the front of your boat and the back, with enough capacity for future additions, you ensure you'll never have those dangling wires or added runs that cause you to either undo 100 tie wraps, or add a few more just to hold the new run.
Just sit in your boat, lay all the gauges and switches on the dash, then start diagraming out how you'll lay out each circuit. Draw a good diagram and double check it to make sure you didn't forget anything. Add a couple of "extra" runs on the main line from front to back and you'll be good to go.
Hope that helps,
Chris