U-joint or pump bearing noise and heat and exhaust nuts

[Rocknpalms]

I am new to this site and thank Danhercules for the suggestion. I have had a few boats over the years and am quite mechanical. I am looking for a little help before I spend many hours on something that coulb be diagnosed rather quickly. I just bought a very rough 74 brown Tahiti (that I am naming "Brown Trout") with a 455 Olds at a good price. I have a receitpt for a rebuilt engine not more than 20 hours, but about six years ago. I bought this from a friend so I trust the hours. I have brought the boat up to a safe and nice running condition. I took the boat out today for the first shake down. I noticed a little periodic growl from the rear of the boat while at an idle. I dont expect this comming from the engine. After 15 min of cruising at a mild rate of speed I gave the engine compartment a once over. I physically felt the u joints and noticed heat on the rear joint. I then felt the Berkeley 12JC at the U joint and it felt cool. I drove the boat for another half hour. While at an idle waiting for the trailer I rapped the engine a few times to diagnois a small off idle hesitation ( I may need help here also) and noticed a louder and longer growl (not a noticable vibration). I plan on removing the u joints I need to know how can I be sure if I need to replace the bearing on the pump or is this just the u joints making the noise.

[Rocknpalms]

I have original Hardon logs and the exhaust nuts keep comming loose. My next step will be lock washers any other sugestions?

[blown428fe]

I have original Hardon logs and the exhaust nuts keep comming loose. My next step will be lock washers any other sugestions?
I ran lock washers on my Edelbrock logs and never had a problem in 8 yrs.

[FOURQ]

i have noticed on lots of lake boats the drive line growls while at an idle and it hasnt been a problem....but this is one thing im not an expert on

[Rocknpalms]

I can deal with a growl but the heat of the u joint shows some kind of friction. I actually droped some water on it and it made a little steam. I just dont know if the heat came from the pump or the joint.

[FOURQ]

I can deal with a growl but the heat of the u joint shows some kind of friction. I actually droped some water on it and it made a little steam. I just dont know if the heat came from the pump or the joint.
that may be a problem maybe a bad ujoint? never had any problems with my driveline.. is the engine angle right?..i take it you got the dipstick thing i heard about fixed?

[Rocknpalms]

Yes I have calibrated the dip stick. Can you please tell me what the correct angel and tolerance is for the proper angle from the engine to pump.

[victorfb]

my guess would be a dry u-joint. possibly a broken needle bearing aswell. (inside the u-joint). definatly replace the one that got hot at the least. they are cheap and thats a must. just be careful when installing the new one when and if you have to remove the cap to install the joint in its housing. its very easy to hit one of the needle bearings and it will get crushed when the cap gets pressed on all the way. one trick to keep the needle bearings in their place is to spread a little butter on them and stick it in the freezer. this will keep the bearings stationary while you install the cap. the butter will melt and mix with the rest of the grease.

[victorfb]

there seems to be alot of opinions on pump angle to the motor. ive heard some say dead center straight, and some say to purposly put an angle on it so the bearings turn on the u-joints. (which i believe by the way) so if its not noticeably off i wouldnt worry too much about it.

[Rocknpalms]

I did grease the u joints before the trip but no guarantee that all needle bearings got grease or that all are in tack. I will definately replace both u joints as a precaution. Thanks for the butter tips. Once the u joints are off can I turn the pump shaft by hand and if so would I be able to feel the wear in the bearing or does it meed more RPM to show wear. I was told to check the impeller shaft for up down play, what about forward and back play?

[victorfb]

no play is good. hence the term "tight pump". and yes you should be able to turn the pump by hand. just make sure its clean around the wear ring. if you hear a little grinding its most likely some dirt from the road you picked up on your way back from the lake/river. the pump shouldnt be easily spun by hand meaning it should have some drag from the crush seal.

[Rexone]

If its a low pitch deep rattle at idle only it's probably clearance between the spline on the driveline yoke and the pump shaft (common). That really doesnt' hurt anything unless it's extreme. A constant growl however at other than idle is like u joints or pump bearing and should be fixed right away. There's a link to proper driveline angle in the tech links at the top of gear heads forum too.

[Danhercules]

I just bought a very rough 74 brown Tahiti (that I am naming "Brown Trout") with a 455 Olds at a good price.
I thought you were gonna name it "Squirtin Brown Trout".

[Danhercules]

I did grease the u joints before the trip but no guarantee that all needle bearings got grease or that all are in tack.
When I grease my U-joints I pump enough grease so that I can see it come out on each bearing of the U-joint. It makes a mess thought when I start the boat,so I cut up some cardboard, (of course its a Coors light 30 pack) and make a cover for my drive line, I make a quick run, and the grease spins off the cardboard.
How many pumps of grease did you do? If you boat was not run in a while, could need a lot of grease.
U-joints are cheep, I say replace them, and take out your Brown Trout, :rollside: If it warms up again, I'd say its in the pump. Good luck. Hope your Brown Trout Floats. Sunkers suck, I know. :D