Jet a Way Help

[Fogged Gullwing]

Just wanted to find out what everyone is running for the gap between the splined yoke and the snap ring is? I've been told .250 for the gap to allow for flex in the hull. My 19' gullwing is a lake layup so I really don't know how much flex it has. I know that the race layup's have to be really concerned with this but how about this boat. Duane you can jump in here anytime!!
Thanks in advance
BK

[Jake W2]

If you are running a H bar type of shaft(not lenco stright shaft) put it to the snap ring and then take off the snap ring.
The snap ring is for the stright shafts.
Jake

[steelcomp]

I'm definately taking notes here! :coffeycup

[Fogged Gullwing]

Drag,
I asked Jack if I could run the Lenco he told me no!!!! especialy if I was going to cruise!!! So I bought the 1350 h- bar from rex!!! My friend Kim ran a lenco around the lake and found that it was red hot after a lap. I wanted to run it but was advised not to. I may have to remove my pump to get it off but I think it will be worth it!!!!
Later BK

[Fogged Gullwing]

hell I don't know he just said no lake boat's with a lenco shaft!!!
BK

[UBFJ #454]

Lenco Shafts are not designed to be used in environments where boats are run for extended periods of time ... Their installation requires that there be something like an 1/16th to no more than an 1/8th of an inch play (forward & backward) so the shaft does not ride up hard against the crank (if no gap/play will take out the rear main of the motor in time) ... This gap results in the male/female splines sliding against each other creating Heat. If Lenco's are run extended periods of time they will get Red Hot, change Color and Loose Their Strength Over Time, possibly even developing a slight bend or twist ... which is certainly not desireable.
The couplers are also a source of potential problems in a long running environment as the are AL and do not like the heat ... can expand and slip yielding too much play and allow end of shaft to 'pound/hammer' the back of crank.
LENCO Shafts are Drag Racing Equipment, not for Lake or River use ... After a 1/4 Mile run ours is warm enough that you don't want to reach over and grab it ... I check the couplers tightness and the shaft gap after every run ... After it Cools a minute or three.

[Jake W2]

The info I gave came stright from Duane to me. I was thinking the same thing about a space betwine the drive line and the snap ring but when I asked he said bottom out the shaft on the snap ring then take it off.
If any of you guys are still running the snap ring on with a
H bar what did you set it at?
Jake

[UBFJ #454]

I was only referring to the LENCO Shaft SetUp when I mentioned the gap ... Nothing else .... There is no snap ring on a LENCO Shaft.

[SoCal Power]

I did as mentioned earlier.........fabbed engine rail kit with h-bar yoke against the snap ring then will remove snap ring before final installation.

[Jake W2]

Jak I was not talking about your post I know a lenco does not have a snap ring and I had said on the first post that the snap ring on the Jetaway was for a Lenco stright shaft.
Jake

[UBFJ #454]

My Oops ... Not awake yet ... Sunday morning and all.

[UBFJ #454]

"The gap you are refferencing is the gap you can create in the slip collars (correct)?"
Yep.

[Duane HTP]

If you are running a regular driveshaft with U-Joints, you can poisition the shaft against the snap ring and then remove it for sufficient spacing. The snap ring is on there for Lenco applications only. It keeps the free coupler end from going back into the end of the splines and sticking. They can be next to impossible to get off. I like to see between .150" and .250" clearance for the shaft to allow for flexing of boat and motor mounts.