460 Rail Kit Help [Archive]

corlish

03-06-2005, 05:14 PM

? for those that have rail kits and 460's i.e. Jake, Ken F, Lakes, Hack, and others. I am putting together a kit for our Cyclone and am having starter clearance issues. I have 22 3/4" between the stringers and with the engine at a 4* tilt and centerline of crank ~ 1/4" above centerline of pump shaft, the right rail is smack in the way of the starter.
I just have the rails clamped right now so I can move them if I need to but I really like the looks of their current position.
I saw a pic of Hack's set up in the Spectra but it looks like there is more width between the stringers in that setup.
The rear plate on Duane's site looks like it has the starter underneath the rail.
Just curious if anybody else had this issue and how it was addressed?
Sorry, I pulled the mock up without snapping any pics.
Thanks!
Corey

Jake W2

03-06-2005, 05:38 PM

Dan aka Squritcha had the same problem he had to cut out the rail on that side.If you get on his site you can see it.
You might try a mini Tilton or that alike starter.
In my boat the stringers are 1 inch wide and I have no clearance issues.
Are you making your own kit or buying it?
A sugestion make the block off plate in to the mount.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/2006ftm1.jpg
Jake

Squirtcha?

03-06-2005, 06:31 PM

Here's a picture of mine. Where the notch is cut out (front of starter) is where I eventually cut the aluminum completely away to the stringer for clearance. It's still really really tight, but it fits. You can cut the rail away and leave just enough for the 90 degree block (pillow block) to sit on. It's plenty strong, and you'll notice that most guys cut out pieces of the rail to accomodate other pieces of hardware. You may have a problem with the oil filter clearance too................... I did.
http://www.homestead.com/jetboat/files/startert.jpg
This was during mockup when I made the change to rails.
You might want to consider going to the smaller high torque starters from Tilton or similar. I think they'd allow more clearance than the stock unit.
Jake's right on the front mount deal too. All the ones I've seen (my own included) utilize the front mount for the water/timing cover too.
http://www.homestead.com/jetboat/files/intakereadyt.jpg

wsuwrhr

03-06-2005, 06:36 PM

I have a mini starter in my Dodge, I had the same problem you did. Wouldn't work with the stock size starter.
If you used 1/4 it would be ok to trim the rails back too.
Brian
Just my .02

Ken F

03-06-2005, 07:09 PM

When I did the rail mounts in my old Omega, I cut the rail away just like Squirtcha-had to lay on my belly and slide the starter in from the front to the back, but it fit.
On the New Cheyenne, I'm using a mini, and it fits great, without notching.
Ken F

MudPumper

03-06-2005, 07:25 PM

I had the same problem with my Chevy. I lowered the engine in with the hoist and then used a sharpie pen and traced onto the rail where the starter hit and then used a grinder and cut it out. You can kind of see it in this pic.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1653Rail8_Nomotor-med.JPG

superdave013

03-06-2005, 07:46 PM

Jake W2

03-06-2005, 08:24 PM

corlish

03-06-2005, 09:47 PM

Thanks a ton guys -- I was starting to think that I must be holding my mouth the wrong way or something :boxed:
Jake, I am making my own -- I did buy some blocks from Eddie though with 4* already cut into them; spotfaced bolt holes too!
I had planned on a mini starter just have not laid out the coin yet (not having one is kind of a dumb move considering the mock up and all). I had already made the front plate incorporating the block off (had one in a drag car like that) mine is sort of like Jakes with the two triangular holes.
I am a slow mover but will get some pics up when I make some progress.
Corey

LakesOnly

03-06-2005, 11:02 PM

I had planned on a mini starter just have not laid out the coin yet
Go to the auto parts store and get a mini-starter for a late model F-250. Their tiny like the "race" starters and they crank over my friends 640 cubic inch Ford like it's no big deal. There are as good as the aftermarket BS but at 1/4 the price.
LO

Jake W2

03-07-2005, 04:55 AM

Lakes do you know what year to tell them to look up?
Jake

superdave013

03-07-2005, 05:00 AM

Thanks SuperD.I made the flex plate cover this week end and cut out a 5 pointed star and then in betwine thoes cut outs I made a three hole pattren in the 5 point configuration too.After I was done I was trying to figure out if it was cool or gay looking :squiggle:
Jake :rollside:
Sounds cool. Post a pic of it and we can have a gay or not thread about it. :cool: lol
How are you cutting it? Do you have a mill or are you doing it old skool?
I will say I wish the ford that come to me for plumbing had your front plate. Nice acess to the fuel pump!

FHI-prez

03-07-2005, 06:01 AM

or you could always mount the starter backwards and at the 2 o'clock position (looking at the motor from the front). The high torque counter rotating starters are around 160 bucks (at least it was last year when I bought one.) But they do last longer because they dont see as much water if your bilge tends to get wet from time to time. Not to mention that they see almost NO heat back there. It's kind of nice to service up there, can pull my starter in about 5 min and put it back in about the same amount of time. It sure would free up some space down there by the rail. Just a thought because my bell housing has a mounting spot for both positions, stock and counter rotating. No reason why your plate couldn't be the same way.
Nick

WriedtStuff

03-07-2005, 10:22 AM

I had to do the mini starter also on my Stealth..with a 460. I also had to cut out some of the rail for the oil filter....I decided later to just remote the oil filter....wish I had before I cut the rail.

Squirtcha?

03-07-2005, 07:36 PM

Go to the auto parts store and get a mini-starter for a late model F-250. Their tiny like the "race" starters and they crank over my friends 640 cubic inch Ford like it's no big deal. There are as good as the aftermarket BS but at 1/4 the price.
LO
This sounds like an excellent option too. Whenever my lifetime warranty at Autozone runs out.............I'll probably go that route. Man, those guys have replaced my starter four years running. Every season I take it in and they spin it up saying that don't sound too good.............How's about we give ya new one.
Hell yeah. Why not? :p

Jake W2

03-07-2005, 08:19 PM

SuperD I thought a mill was old skool.Yea I am doing it by drill press and black marker and jig saw :supp: .I am trying to find a little mill to do stuff like long hole slots ect.
Jake

wsuwrhr

03-07-2005, 08:23 PM

SuperD I thought a mill was old skool.Yea I am doing it by drill press and black marker and jig saw :supp: .I am trying to find a little mill to do stuff like long hole slots ect.
Jake
For not having a mill, the front plate you made is bitchen.
Brian

Fogged Gullwing

03-07-2005, 08:43 PM

SuperD I thought a mill was old skool.Yea I am doing it by drill press and black marker and jig saw :supp: .I am trying to find a little mill to do stuff like long hole slots ect.
Jake
I was shopping for a mill also lots of the back east where your at I did a google seach and found that almost every used machine dealer is in the midwest. Try it out I saw some pretty good deals. The only bummer for me would be the shipping :(
Later BK

Jake W2

03-07-2005, 09:01 PM

Thanks Brian it still needs to be cleaned up but I am happy with the way it turned out.
BK Belive it or not I have a Cummings tools close to my house and they have a small mill for under 400 bucks 3 something on sale but was scared it was a pezzo .
Jake

Fogged Gullwing

03-07-2005, 09:35 PM

BK Belive it or not I have a Cummings tools close to my house and they have a small mill for under 400 bucks 3 something on sale but was scared it was a pezzo .
Jake[/QUOTE]
Don't I know it there are guys out here trying to sell a 1930's bridgeport for 2500.00 I'm considering Chinese Ohhhh Did I say that? :hammerhea Maybe I'll shop somemore Good luck!!
BK