Need Advice on prices [Archive]

Speedin' Ian

03-07-2005, 02:03 PM

O.K. so I have all of our parts at a shop getting checked out and I want to run some of the #s past you. First off the rods, crank, and pistons checked out with no cracks but here is a list of what they said they need to do and the price to do it.
Chevy Dimple Rods = resized, bushings replaced, new bolts and something else that I can't remember = $384.00. Probably going to replace these with eagle H-beams for $460.00 because the shop does not think they will hold up to the power we want to make (just like a lot of you told us)
Chevy LS7 Cranks - reground, nitrated and hardened, balanced = $450.00
TRW Blower Pistons - pins resized $68.00
Block = new bearings, tanked, sonic tested and magnifluxed, bored + honed, surface and alignment checked = $449.00

Sleek-Jet

03-07-2005, 02:30 PM

Since I've been doing the same recently, that all sounds anout right to me...
... except I've been doing it one thing at a time, doesn't look as spendy that way, it just takes 6 months to get all the machine work done... :hammerhea

Speedin' Ian

03-07-2005, 02:34 PM

Thanks Sleek-Jet, I have a lot of faith in these guys but it's always good to double check. Now I need to start shopping for new heads.

Sleek-Jet

03-07-2005, 02:44 PM

You might be able to save some money by buying hardware/bearings/rings and other parts seperately... but I was suprised when the shop I was using could beat most of the mail order houses on prices.
I learned the hard way the cheep machine shop prices usually mean's just that...cheap. I have one engine on the stand that had to be done twice because the first guy focked things up so bad...

Infomaniac

03-07-2005, 03:25 PM

Dude you need to send that stuff to Oklahoma. :D
Eagle rods are less than 400.00

Sleek-Jet

03-07-2005, 03:29 PM

Oh yeah, I forgot... Info can beat just about anyones prices on parts (at least the mail order houses)... :D

djunkie

03-07-2005, 03:39 PM

Hey Info. what would it cost to ship a motor out there and back from Ca.?

Speedin' Ian

03-07-2005, 03:45 PM

Sleek-Jet

03-07-2005, 04:14 PM

Well I am pretty sure the rods include the price of dialing them in, but I'm I think your right. Unfortunately we are working within a timeline and shipping everything to OK would not work, also it's about the same as getting them from Summit or jegs and I don't have to pay shipping & processing.
Now I think I need to find some new heads, because our exhauset valves keep leaking and after this valve job they would cc at about 130. Man this engine building adds up quickly.
I recently ordered some parts from Info (he could get me the timming set I needed) and the s/h for ground is not that bad. He beat Summit/Jeg's prices on the bearing and rings as well (I know what I said before about the local guys beating prices, but the s/h was less than the sales tax on the parts). Give him a try.

Infomaniac

03-07-2005, 04:23 PM

Hey Info. what would it cost to ship a motor out there and back from Ca.?
About $300.00 plus packaging materials.

Fiat48

03-07-2005, 07:14 PM

Would not put $450 in a LS-7 crank. Would buy a 4340 instead. Eagle, scat.
Piston pin holes resized $68? 20 min job if you are slow.
Mixed emotions on the rods. Never broke a good prepared dimple rod. But if I was going Eagle...I'd get the L-19 bolt deals.
Block = new bearings, tanked, sonic tested and magnifluxed, bored + honed, surface and alignment checked = $449.00
I guess that means check line hone (alignment). Decking..you might not need it. I'm not used to these package deal prices....so I guess that's fair. Don't line hone that block "just because" either.
Always remember the crank see's all the hp. It's the motion changer. LS-7 good for it's day but that day is over. If it's all ya got then ya run it. But $450...no way.

Speedin' Ian

03-07-2005, 07:48 PM

I was thinking about going with the new crank, I think he quoted me about $750.00 for a 4340 4.25 Eagle crank, however I'm assuming it would still need to be balanced. I went with the new rods because it was about a hundred dollars extra to get new Eagle H-beams, then I figured I could sell my dimble rods for at least a 100.oo.
Now, if I go with the new crank what could I sell my current crank for, assuming it is currently internally balanced, but does need to be turned?
Also if I go with a new crank and rods, what is a safe stroke to run with a chevrolet block (four bolt billet mains)?
Decisions, decisions, decisions? :hammerhea
Hey Info. what would you charge for the above mentioned crank and rods?

Fiat48

03-07-2005, 08:06 PM

I don't like to stroke a BBC stock block. If it is to be blown. But others will argue. More lever on an already troublesome area.
Is the guy looking and measuring stuff...or are we resizing "just because"?
There are some 10/10 Eagle's out there from the factory that were selling cheap. I think I paid $600 for a Scat 4.250 (It's going in Dart block) Check C&C Motorsports..they are on Ebay.
Cranks are only worth a couple hundred bucks....about same as rods.
Billet caps will not keep the mains saddles from walking.
You're changing rods..you have to rebalance anyway. TRW pins are a weak link in any blown motor. Especially if they have a machined ridge in them.

Speedin' Ian

03-07-2005, 08:29 PM

Thanks for all the advice Fiat, I'll owe you big when all is said and done. If at anytime you get tired of answering my questions just tell me to bug someone else.
They said they measured everything and checked it for cracks, so I am assuming everything they are mentioning is legit. He did mention that the journals had a taper, or something :confused: . And he said there was some gawling on the pistons, so that is why he is resizing them. If they resize them don't I need to get new pins?
To give you a little backgroud on why I chose this shop, my girlfriend's nieghbor is a retired LA City Fireman and has owned a head shop with his partner (also a retired, and now deceased fireman) for many, many years. Well he works with this other shop (also retired fireman) that does all the maching and builds all the motors. I have known Mike (the head guy) for a few years and gone to the Nostalgiac drags with all these guys so I felt comfortable giving them my parts. I definately don't feel like I'm getting hooked up, but I am confident the work will be done right and I will not get ripped off.
Back to the parts, now that I think about it the crank was a Scat unit. Man I am stressed out trying to make all these decisions. I am seriously considering a new crank, but would like to add a few cubes if I'm going to spend the money.

Fiat48

03-07-2005, 08:43 PM

You have a blower to make up for cubes. A sunnen hone will make the pin holes round again...it's all you need (assuming floating pin). No big deal.
Main thing is you have someone you trust.

GofastRacer

03-07-2005, 08:53 PM

Ian, why don't you just get a complete kit from DynoFlo, you can't beat the price and it has all the good stuff and it comes in whatever size motor you want to have. If you're worried about a block, they have a cool deal with a Dart block!..

BLOZZ JR

03-07-2005, 09:16 PM

i agree with go fast. the boys at dyno-flo always take good care of me and always have smokin deals on eagle stuff 1-702-567-3035
jeff

Speedin' Ian

03-08-2005, 06:17 AM

Fiat48

03-08-2005, 06:25 AM

That is a floating pin.

GofastRacer

03-08-2005, 10:10 AM

I will call Dyno-flo today and see what kind of price they are offering on there cranks/rods/motor kits.
Fiat, I'm not sure if they are free floating pins because I don't know what that is, but they had four clips (two on each side) holding the pin in
Ian, I got one of these a few months ago, can't beat the price!..BTW, those are floating!..
Dyno-Flo (http://www.racingjunk.com/exec/ca/view/296302/BBC-Big-chevy-EAGLE-forged-rotating468-540-59.html)

Speedin' Ian

03-08-2005, 12:39 PM

OK so now I am really confused. 1699.00 sounds like a great deal for all that stuff. Then I call the shop that has all my parts and tell him I'm thinking of going with a different crank and rods, so he tells me he has a brand new Dart block with billet caps he'll give me for 1500.00. So let's say I buy all this, what else will I need and how much more will I have to spend? I'm assuming I will need all the studs, gaskets, cam, lifters. Did I leave anything out? Can I run a set of iron 990's on this block? :hammerhea

Fiat48

03-08-2005, 05:21 PM

1500 is a smokin deal on a dart with billet caps. Sounds a little too good..better confirm it.
990's will work.
Not sure about the Kit deal or what it contains. But Dart takes all the same gaskets...head studs depend on brand of head you are going to run.
Dart block is just like a chevy block..except stronger, thicker, heavier, better oiling, blind head bolt holes, etc. And the two I have built have been machined very close right from the factory.
Now with the Dart block...you can buy 4.500 bore pistons and make that thing a 509 without the stroke. The big bore unshrouds the valves...let's the engine breathe better.
Remember those 2 blocks you have are sellable...get's the cost of the dart down even more.
That should confuse you a little more.

Speedin' Ian

03-08-2005, 05:43 PM

That's what I was thinking Fiat, sounds a little too good to be true, but like I said I know these guys so I am comfrotable what I am getting is legit. I am going to buy that rotating assembly as well, figure I'll be getting a nice set of pistons with good rings and pins, plus a solid crank and rods so I won't have to worry about a little boost and injection down the line.
So I know my heads will work, and from the sounds of it my all my other hardware (timing chain cover, gear drive manifold, etc.) will work as well. Now I just need to pick a cam and lifters.
Also will a 671 and two 850's be sufficient on a 509 or 540 until I can spring for a larger blower and a hat?
Is there a reason why I should build a 509 over a 540/572/596?
P.S. I looked at my manifold and it is a weind, so I guess that mag won't work.

Fiat48

03-08-2005, 06:03 PM

509 is enough for me. I let the blower do the rest. The more low end you out in a flat..the harder you have to plate it to hold it. How fast did ya want to go anyway? The more arm you put in it..the harder it is on the crank and the main bearings. Much of this personal preference.
Sell that Wiend at a swap meet. Buy a BDS peak floor or similar. Cooler rear cylinders..better distributiuon...better everywhere.

GofastRacer

03-08-2005, 06:22 PM

That is a smokin deal or that block, here's another package they have that's a good deal!... :cool:
BTW Bob, I'm trying to learn something new here, could you step it up a bit, a kid like me needs all the info he can get ya know!..!.. :sleeping: :sleeping: :D :D :D
Shortblock! (http://www.racingjunk.com/exec/ca/view/296269/BBC-572-598-Short-Block-DART-EAGLE-assembled.html)

Fiat48

03-08-2005, 06:31 PM

I did not tell him to put an injector on it....I saved that for you. I know my limitations.
But personally...I'd keep the 6/71...sell the carbs and the top...sell that lousy intake...A good manifold and a Birdcatcher hat....and you already know what fuel. :D

GofastRacer

03-08-2005, 06:54 PM

sgdiv7

03-08-2005, 07:29 PM

You guy' are a bunch of drunks, lol

Fiat48

03-08-2005, 07:33 PM

The diff between a drunk and an alcoholic is the drunk don't have to go to those meetings.
Gofast runs gasoline. I do too. In my Toyota. :D

GofastRacer

03-08-2005, 07:45 PM

Well now, I run skunk piss in my Toyota but I run "GAS" in the boat,LOL.. :D Now with a blown deal it would have to be on alky!..And the meetings wouldn't do shit for me!.. :D :D :D

Speedin' Ian

03-09-2005, 08:39 PM

Met with the engine builder today and we went over parts and prices. Looks like we are going to buy that block, checked it out and it is brand new with the good main caps (not ductile iron). We are getting the forged 4340 eagle crank and H-beam rods (with upgraded bolts), SRP pistons and rings, bearings (I forget what type) and he is going to do all the machining and assemble.
As for the heads, we haven't decided yet, may get a set of fresh 990's, maybe a set of Merlins, or possibly a set of Brodix 2's. Those are all heads my buddy has lying around the shop so he is going to check everything out and crunch some numbers, but we should know by Friday.
Lastly we need to decide what type of induction we will be running, we may have a guy willing to trade our set-up for a hat which would be nice. If not we will probably sell our stuff and buy an injection set-up
So now I have a bunch of parts I want to sell :D
1 LS7 crank, internally balanced, but needs to be turned
1 set of dimple rods, need to be resized
1 set of TRW blower pistons, pins need to be resized
1 4 bolt block 60 over with studs (this is the one with 2 o-rings)
1 Clay Smith roller cam (lifter failed so this may not be worth anything :confused: )
Any ideas on what this stuff is worth?