Swim Step Ideas

[Hallett19]

Well, if you look at this picture, you can see that my reverse cable is not ideally placed. In fact, it is making the turning difficult and the operation of the reverse handle is hindered badly. I am not willing to go spend between $500 and $800 on billet swim steps and I really like the one I have but I am begining to think it will have to go with the addition of my new diverter.
Now I know alot you are both crafty and wise so any other ideas for my reverse cable problem would be greatly appreciated.
I moved the cable through all the slats of the swim step and none of them worked any better than how I have it now. I pulled the cord out more, and I pushed it in, but nothing is working well. I can't do the low profile Place system either :(
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/128MVC-007F.JPG

[HOOTER SLED-]

Buy a Panther Jet. ;) If you buy new swim steps, maybe you can mount them lower?? Not sure where your waterline is. Also, if you get single steps instead of one big one, maybe that will work???

[hoolign]

Since you can get hydraulic diverter controls. why can't ya get hyraulic reverse bucket controls???
Why can't you put s a droop snoot on it??

[HOOTER SLED-]

DOh. My bad on the lower mount comment. That won't work. If you sill want a full swim step and are gonna go billet, call Dana. I'm sure they would be willing to make a custom one that you could somehow route your cable through. Or make your own cedar steps. I myself dig the full step too. When I change mine, I think I'll be going with a billet full step. No clearance problems for me. I'm hung like a Panther. :) Good luck man.

[Hallett19]

Since you can get hydraulic diverter controls. why can't ya get hyraulic reverse bucket controls???
My sentiment exactly !! :D
I wouldnt mind getting split steps, but Dana steps are $$PRICEY$$ !! The swim step is right at water level, so that is fine, I just like the swim step how it is. I wouldnt mind drilling a hole in the swim step, but I definitley dont want to hack out the center of it or spend upwards of a grand to get a setup that will work. :rolleyes:
My last effort at saving this swim step would be to route the cable through one of the slats which gives it fine motion, pray nobody grabs at it to pull themselves up to the step, then notch out the step where the reverse cable hits when the diverter is in the full up position.

[RiverDave]

H19, can you take the brackets off the big fiberglass step? If you can, then I can probably make you a set of swim steps (split) utilizing your old brackets for pretty cheap. Then your cable can just go up the middle between the steps.
RD

[HOOTER SLED-]

Aren't forward/reverse cables usually smaller in diameter??? That looks like a steering cable. NO wonder it's a bitch to flex. Are all Berks like that???? Maybe you can switch it out?? If it's possible. I've only owned Jacuzzi and a Panther. Both had smaller cables for forward/reverse. I wanna say the full Dana steps are around $800. It's been awhile since I priced them. Make your own cedar step.

[Hallett19]

H19, can you take the brackets off the big fiberglass step? If you can, then I can probably make you a set of swim steps (split) utilizing your old brackets for pretty cheap. Then your cable can just go up the middle between the steps.
I can take the brackets off and use them as a template for new steps no problem. I think I'm going to try notching the swim step with the dremel, its only a small area that hits when the wheel is turned all the way to the right. If that doesnt work right (God knows it will look like sh!t) then I will take you up on your offer. Can I get your signature on the tops cut into the billet ? :D

[RiverDave]

I can take the brackets off and use them as a template for new steps no problem. I think I'm going to try notching the swim step with the dremel, its only a small area that hits when the wheel is turned all the way to the right. If that doesnt work right (God knows it will look like sh!t) then I will take you up on your offer. Can I get your signature on the tops cut into the billet ? :D
Only if I can have an autorgraphed life sized poster of you on my wall. :D
RD

[BarryMac]

Only if I can have an autorgraphed life sized poster of you on my wall. :D
RD
Hmmm, that sounds really gay... :2purples: :wink:

[Hallett19]

Hmmm, that sounds really gay... :2purples: :wink:
Racing Rascal has one :D

[RiverDave]

Hmmm, that sounds really gay... :2purples: :wink:
It was a joke.. :supp:
RD

[Froggystyle]

I can't do the low profile Place system either :(
Why not? That would be the way to go on this application. It would solve your problem easily...

[Hallett19]

WESFORD !!! My brother tells me you are going to be a celebrity soon !! :D
The way the cable comes out of the transom adapter, it would be too tight of an angle and I would be in the same dilema I'm in now... I think. I would probably have to have the reverse cable come out of the transom differently and then it would probably work fine.
Also, how do you go about adjusting the steering so its more straight on ? Loosen that nut on the transom adapter and adjust accordingly ?

[Slick]

Aaron,
The low-profile system uses a completely different cable. It's the same as your throttle cable, I think it's a BC, and has a much smaller maximum bend . I'd look into it before chopping up your glass step.
Another thing to look at if you can run the low-profile system is tapping another hole in the port side of the transom ring and routing the cable that way. It would probably allow you to run a larger bend in the cable.
On the lesser end of the spectrum, you could notch the step for clearence when the diverter is up and run the cable through the transom above the step. You're always going to have the fear of some bozo using your cables as a grab handle so what's the difference?

[Hallett19]

Considering all I bring on my boat is bozos, grabbing the cable is imminent ;)

[Havasu Hangin']

If it were me, and I was set on putting on some killer billet swimsteps, I would just glass in the old cable holes (since your gonna have to glass in the old mounting holes anyway)....
...and start over.

[NorCal Gameshow]

I ran into the same problem on my old spectra, I notched the swim step...
I did kick around the idea of leaving the step alone and going into the opposite side on the jet (above the steering cable) and plugging the existing hole ...

[Hallett19]

If it were me, and I was set on putting on some killer billet swimsteps, I would just glass in the old cable holes (since your gonna have to glass in the old mounting holes anyway)....
...and start over.
Its a good thing I'm not you :wink:
I think I'm just going to notch it and try my hardest to make it look cool and if that doesnt work, I might have to see if Dave will make me some and have them anodized black.

[hoolign]

I still dont know why you dont look for a small hydraulic actuator and install a small pump.

[Tom Brown]

You should be able to mount a ball joint to the top, right side of that bucket fairly easily and then it wouldn't be a huge deal to make another bracket to hold the end of the cable. That way, the cable will go horizontal, instead of vertical. That should get the cable completely under the swim step with no sharp bends causing it to bind.
If you go that route, make sure you mount the heim the same distance form the pivot point of the bucket as it is now and also make sure the angle of the cable ram is the same (just rotated about 90 degrees) so the lever still works the same.
PS - I'm pretty sure hoolign is a fart sniffer

[RiverDave]

I still dont know why you dont look for a small hydraulic actuator and install a small pump.
That would be my route.. but I probably wouldn't use a pump.
RD

[Tom Brown]

I just thought of another potential option.
You could go to Rex Marine and get one of their cables that is designed to make tight turns. They list a cable that can turn a 2" radius. That might be the most simple solution of all. :cool:
Check out the Rex 33C supercable (You should be able to mount a ball joint to the top, right side of that bucket fairly easily and then it wouldn't be a huge deal to make another bracket to hold the end of the cable. That way, the cable will go horizontal, instead of vertical.
[URL=http://www.rexmar.com/page106.html)

[hoolign]

That would be my route.. but I probably wouldn't use a pump.
RDhow else do you run hydraulics ?

[HCS]

I just thought of another potential option.
You could go to Rex Marine and get one of their cables that is designed to make tight turns. They list a cable that can turn a 2" radius. That might be the most simple solution of all. :cool:
Check out the Rex 33C supercable (You should be able to mount a ball joint to the top, right side of that bucket fairly easily and then it wouldn't be a huge deal to make another bracket to hold the end of the cable. That way, the cable will go horizontal, instead of vertical.
[URL=http://www.rexmar.com/page106.html)
I figured you'd just say, dump the jet boat. :220v:

[hoolign]

I just thought of another potential option.
You could go to Rex Marine and get one of their cables that is designed to make right turns. They list a cable that can turn a 2" radius. That might be the most simple solution of all. :cool:
Check out the Rex 33C supercable (You should be able to mount a ball joint to the top, right side of that bucket fairly easily and then it wouldn't be a huge deal to make another bracket to hold the end of the cable. That way, the cable will go horizontal, instead of vertical.
[URL=http://www.rexmar.com/page106.html)
That way, the cable will go horizontal, instead of vertical.
the bucket goes up and down..not left and rightYou could go to Rex Marine and get one of their cables that is designed to make right turns.
interesting! :jawdrop:

[Tom Brown]

I figured you'd just say, dump the jet boat. :220v:
Now that you mention it, a nice set-back bracket and outboard would look really good on there. :cool:
Hey hoolign... if you were here with me right now, you'd really be enjoying the aroma that's emanating from my ass.

[Tom Brown]

the bucket goes up and down..not left and right
Yes, I know this. It wouldn't be tough to rotate the actuating ram 90*.

[hoolign]

Yes, I know this. It wouldn't be tough to rotate the actuating ram 90*.
The problem is the "actuating ram" is the tail end of the cable..open a window for christ sakes
:burningm:

[Tom Brown]

The problem is the "actuating ram" is the tail end of the cable..open a window for christ sakes
:burningm:
I think I see what you mean. There isn't enough distance between the hull and the cable stay to allow proper flexibility for turning.
RD's idea is another simple one. Two rams, some sikaflex, fill with fluid, and then when you push or pull one end, the other should follow. Simple.
This chair is going to stink every time I sit down now. :(

[hoolign]

I think I see what you mean. There isn't enough distance between the hull and the cable stay to allow proper flexibility for turning.
RD's idea is another simple one. Two rams, some sikaflex, fill with fluid, and then when you push or pull one end, the other should follow. Simple.
This chair is going to sink every time I sit down now. :(
right !! i think pushing a button is even easier!

[Tom Brown]

right !! i think pushing a button is even easier!
RD doesn't have emphasima as bad as you do just yet so he doesn't mind exerting about 6 lbs of force for a half second.

[hoolign]

RD doesn't have emphasima as bad as you do just yet so he doesn't mind exerting about 6 lbs of force for a half second.
you would have to hold it in the forward position, unless you installed a "line Lock" set up

[Tom Brown]

Not if the shifter has a detent.

[hoolign]

Not if the shifter has a detent.
Good point. as much as i hated to admit that..good point

[Hallett19]

Okay, here is what I'm talking about. The first picture is the nozzle turned all the way to the right diverter all the way down. The next picture is turned all the way to the right, all the way up. And finally the third picture is trimmed almost all the way up, wheel all the way to the right, there is still another inch of clearance.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/128Picture_001.jpg
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/128Picture_002.jpg
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/128Picture_005.jpg
The way I see it is this, I wont have the wheel turned all the way to the right with the diverter all the way up ever. I only put it up real high when I am flying, and when I am flying, the last thing I want to do is turn the wheel all the way to the right. :jawdrop:
Anyone ?

[hoolign]

Personally..i'd ditch the one piece bowl, install a snoot, and call er dunn!

[NorCal Gameshow]

mount a polished stainless handle on the swim step and run the cable through it.. :idea:

[Dana Marine Products]

Go for the low profile diverter option. The transom adapter takes a 1/2" NPT plug. Get a new cable seal for the transom. That's the easiest and cleanest way to solve your problem. You can use either a 33C (smaller cable, same as throttle) or a 43C (same size as your 43BC but it has the proper connection for the low profile kit). My suggestion is to stay with the 43C, I've used 33C's for reverse buckets and the break way too easy. I'd love to sell you a billet swim step, but it's not necessary to solve this issue.

[HCS]

God damn! Just go buy a prop.
What a bunch of spaghetti bullshit. All it is, is a (f)ucking cable.
Just drill a hole through the bottom of the boat and go hang yourself. :eat:

[Tom Brown]

Ahhh... Tom... I think you meant to post in this (http://www2.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74797&highlight=Anger+problems) threaad.

[HCS]

Ahhh... Tom... I think you meant to post in this (http://www2.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74797&highlight=Anger+problems) threaad.
Thanks. I feel better now that I cooled off.
Good thing my guns are locked up. http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/edoom/let_it_all_out.gif

[DeltaSigBoater]

From the looks of things it seems that the reverse bucket cable connection was on the left side of the nozzle prior to installing the Place Diverter.
Have you thought about repositioning the reverse cable to a new location from where it exits out the transom? The only down side is drilling holes in the back of your boat.
You might want to think about replacing the entire cable if you haven’t already done so since you’ve owned the boat, because you’ll have bigger problems if that cable decides to internally-snap while at speed.
Let us know what you decided.
By the way I’m in favor for keeping the full length swim step.

[Hallett19]

God damn! Just go buy a prop.
What a bunch of spaghetti bullshit. All it is, is a (f)ucking cable.
Just drill a hole through the bottom of the boat and go hang yourself. :eat:
I guess this would solve my problem.... :notam: