Now for the best pistons????

[quiet riot]

So, with the previous damage I had to the pistons and the thin area at the valve relief, what pistons (blower type, brand) should I get?
I ran srp's in the 10:1 motor with 250hp n2o and never had a problem (pistons looked almost new after 8 years.) The ones that failed were made by probe (not sure of actual brand name.)
So, ceramic coated tops?
Thicker top area?
I don't wanna do this again and I'll try and play with the n2o system to prevent it but want all the insurance I can get. This is a small block ford stroked so I'm not sure who all makes a piston for this application but want to inquire thru some better manufacturers.
Any hookups or suggestions would be appreciated, see the "what caused this thread" to see where I'm coming from.
Thanks,
jd

[UBFJ #454]

In 'Ms. MoneyPenny', we run CPP Vertically Gas Ported NOS Pistons (Note the top lan groove is deeper in the cyl. than gasoline pistons) with FED (RBT, BR & SS) Rings (Not Zero Gap or 'Total Seal' ... They're Useless) ... The piston tops have been Gold Coated (Gold Coat 101) and their shirts have been Poly Moly Coated (By Swain in UpState NY). Last year we ran AR-3910's with a 250 shot ... This year, when we Race we're going to use AR-3932's due to our 'Stepping Up' the n20 Shot 'A bit' ... This due to the heat range and the electrode position of the plug relative to the piston and valves.
'Ms. MoneyPenny's' static compression ratio is approaching 16:1 so we run only VP C-16 Fuel (almost 118 octane). Note too that our motor has been built to handle up to a 1,600 n2o Shot.
Two questions ... 1) What is your Firing Order (I've forgotten FORD's) and 2) What was the clearence between the cyl. walls & pistons when you took the piston tops 'off'? ... Thinking about why 1, 4, 5 & 8 and some potential timing, fuel, plug issues.
Hope the above helps ...
Jak

[Foggerjet]

QR, I'm partial to JE, they aint cheap but the quality, workmanship, and durability are second to none, IMO.
http://www.jepistons.com/pdf/2002-srp-ford.pdf
fog

[Floored]

I used to go to Venolia and explain my build and go .300 down top ring for my nitrous setups. You can get a slightly thicker crown, but you also gain some weight. Hard to get max benefits from a dual purpose motor. you lose a little n/a then gain on the shot. compromises

[UBFJ #454]

"Hard to get max benefits from a dual purpose motor."
Your absolutely correct regarding the motor ... Tuning is very different for the two and with n2o you really Need To Pay Attention To Detail (A/F, Timing Retard & Phase, Etc.) Otherwise !!!!!!!!
Also the boat set up (especially for a jet boat ... keel, bottom hardware, etc.) is totally different ... That's why we have stopped running the NJBA's Brackets as they don't allow n2o in them.

[quiet riot]

Two questions ... 1) What is your Firing Order (I've forgotten FORD's) and 2) What was the clearence between the cyl. walls & pistons when you took the piston tops 'off'? ... Thinking about why 1, 4, 5 & 8 and some potential timing, fuel, plug issues.
firing order... 135???? I'll have to go double check while i'm pulling the engine. I'll take in down further today or tommorrow to check bearings and stuff (bores on the damaged cyl's have a little up and down marking vs the normal cross hatch on others, can't feel it though just visual.)
I was thinking of going with the je's as they have an off the shelf size for rod length I've got that aren't as thin on the top. I also have a local place that does all the coating stuff for a lot of racers around here that like their work/product.
Thanks for the inputs and next Q? I'm thinking about having the block o-ringed for the heads (nothing specifically to do with the problem found here) as afr reccommended it for 12:1 comp and n2o usage, would have probably done it before but already had the block and heads done. Whats peeps thoughts on o-ringing as I've never had it done before?
I'll probly try ngk plugs as they seem to be easier to read from my past experience, but I'm still betting I had to have a flow problem on the fuel solonoid momentarily, and I think I got a way to cover that if it arises again.
The fuel was kept at 100 (110/91 mix) oct for n/a use and 110 to both carb and n2o system for n2o use. With the exception of using 100LL for a couple hours this year while tuning in the new carb (only ran n/a this year.) I ran it at 34 degs timing and used the retard box for the n2o (4 deg's on the 150 shot trying to be safe.)
Thanks for everyone's inputs.
jd