ROYAL PURPLE Synthetic Oil

[Liberator TJ1984]

I am considering going to the 20/50wt. full synthetic in my Blown Gas Motor...
running Valvoline 50wt.Race Right Now......
BUT...since I do ALOT of cruising for long distances with NO Oil cooler , I have been told the Synthetic would be much Better.....
so , Lets hear everyones Opinions and don't hold back, good and bad :hammerhea
Thanks, Gopher

[Beer-30]

I run full synthetics in anything I care about. It's really whatever you think you want to run. All of the brands are excellent. Some people say don't waste your money. If you look on the web, there are several tests that show synthectics are much stronger and have superior lube qualities.
I run Mobil-1 10-30 in my dually (7400 Vortec) and in the boat (496HO). I always ran Valvoline 10-40 and changed it at 3000-3500. It was normal black. After changing the first load (years ago) of Mobil-1 in the same motor at 3500, it was almost perfectly clear. I have since upped that to 5-6000 with a filter change in between. It is just "dark brown" at that.
You don't need to run so thick with Synthetic. If you feel you want to, that's fine too. One of the reasons for synthetic use is to gain horsepower from a thinner film. The lube qualities are so superior, that you can run a grade or two lighter and still have awesome surface. It takes a lot more temp to break down than conventional.
I would suggest to pick a brand and thickness and try a few loads of it. See how the motor responds and how it looks at drain time compared to your other oil.

[LakesOnly]

I don't use Royal Purple because of the price, but I know several people that do and love it.
There are a lot of great synthetics out there; get the RP if you want, just remember to bring your VISA card...
Paul

[mickeyfinn]

I run royal purple in everything I own. For daily driver vehicles I change the filter every 7500 miles and add a quart. For the boat I change twice/season. The v-drive gets it about every 5-10 hours. We have been using RP in industrial applications for over 10 years now. Compared with traditional mineral oils we get lower temps, less current draw on gearbox motors and longer life out of our gearbox. We had a set of gearboxes going belly up on us every 12 to 15 months. Switched them to RP and consistently get 36-40 months out of them. We NEVER change the oil unless analysis indicates they are starting to break down. We do quarterly analysis on 20% of the gearboxes. If one shows bad we change it and run analysis on the rest. RP WILL NOT emulsify with water. If water gets in a gearbox we drain it off the bottom and keep going. We haven't tried a lot of others recently, but at the time we made the switch we tried a bunch of different oils and RP gave us the best lifecycle cost. (15 year lifecycle cost analysis).

[Liberator TJ1984]

Thanks for the feedback guys :cool:
I can get a pretty good discount on the stuff thru the companys fuel vender.
From what I've read it seems to be "the cat's ass " but I just wanted to get a few personal opinions on it. Later ,gonna change the oil now :wink:
Gopher

[UBFJ #454]

We run exclusively Royal Purple R-11 (Essentially 5/20w) in 'Ms. MoneyPenny' and change it every 6 to 12 max runs. Her first refresh after 85 Hard Runs ... Bearings weren't even broken in yet and the crank journals looked and measured like New.

[shaun]

Used to run it in my integra, ran about 5K RPM at 80 on the freeway, i drove it hard running it up over 8000 RPM whenever i could. Never had a problem and the oil always looked good when i'd change it at 4000 miles.
One thing i noticed with it was that i burned alittle be more oil than i did with a normal oil

[HammerDown]

One thing i noticed with it was that i burned alittle be more oil than i did with a normal oil
Thinner and getting past the valve guides and or piston rings.
sorry I just don't see the need for these hi-dollar designer syn oils. True they may take extreme high temps better, but why is your engine getting that hot in the first place?

[DEL51]

The Royal Purple is very good oil.Royal did a little article with Car Craft in the last issue.I change Royal on one month basis. It is used in our continuos run roots type blowers. On one month intervals, the oil drained looks virgin. I run shaeffers semi- syn moly 20w50 in my 1100hp engine and have no problems that are oil related, $3.39/Qt.I also run their oil in my truck, a 5w 30w and change it 4 times per year. I run a wix filter. They are the best.Good filters are as, or more important than running a special oil. Air filters are important as well.Sub micron and small particle erosion causes wear as well as the quality of gasoline.Bad gas causes execess carbon.The carbon left over from combustion finds its way into the oil.Changing oil frequently with a mineral base oil is more labor intensive but eliminates the buid up of sub micron carbon erosion.Valvoline has a nice detergent package and will turn dark after a couple hours,not to mention it is darker in color to begin with.I like the Shaeffers, good adiitive package, cost is between a royal synthetic and a good mineral oil. We use 1 micron filters to extend our oil life at my pace of employment.Duration of use, and cost weigh in.

[Beer-30]

My thing is just the free-ing up of horsepower via some synthetics.
I just put TORCO 75-140 SGO full synthetic race gear oil in my dually rear end. Why?
Because there is a test that someone posted on the web. They took their late model Dodge 1-ton and strapped it to a dyno. Warmed up the rear end and tested the horsepower and temp.
Dumped the stock lube and put the TORCO in. Warmed it up (as much as it would. It was several degrees less) and then tested it.
+14 HP at the rear wheels. A full-floater 1-ton rear end has a lot of oil-submerged parts, so I can see this being true. Sure, I wasn't there for the test, so it could all be bull.
Another story. I used to drive a 1-ton aluminum bed car carrier. Went over the Grapevine twice a week. IT had the stock 4-speed with a DougNash overdrive attached to the rear. The DN OD is a couple of gearsets spinning around in an aluminum case.
After 6 Months or so, we would dump the lube. It was black and smelled cooked. We tried several other oils, including a few synthetics. We kept cooking oil.
We put TORCO in it and made a few passes over the hill. Dumped it and it looked new. Now this I HAVE seen. We continued to use it and had no problems with the OD since. I was a firm believer.
Reeves Calloway used to see "usual" wear on bearings after 24 hour endurance races with his twin-turbo cars. He switched to Mobil-1 and the wear went away.
No, it's not going to stop all of it. But all of the test I have seen from AMSOIL, TORCO, and MOBIL-1 have made it worth the cost for my piece of mind when I am half-way between states with 7000 lb boat and trailer!

[Liberator TJ1984]

Thinner and getting past the valve guides and or piston rings.
sorry I just don't see the need for these hi-dollar designer syn oils. True they may take extreme high temps better, but why is your engine getting that hot in the first place?
HD, my water temps usually run between 140 / 160 , I have gauges in ea. head. Just noticed one day at the lake a "coke" can had made its way back under the motor , heads and block were fairly cool but when I touched the Oil Pan .....SOB was HOT !!! I usually change oil once per season, this will be the 5th.?? maybe 6th. year on motor with no tear down ...( running WIX filter - cut open and checked often for particles -every 10hrs or so ) . I just figured if I go to synthetic @ $6qt. / 12qts= $ 72 ....not too bad for once a year , and maybe get another few years out of motor before having to rebuild ???
Yes I am a Tight Bastard !! and belive If it ain't broke - Don't F' with it !!!

[Beer-30]

I just figured if I go to synthetic @ $6qt. / 12qts= $ 72 ....not too bad for once a year , and maybe get another few years out of motor before having to rebuild ???
Yes I am a Tight Bastard !! and belive If it ain't broke - Don't F' with it !!!
None of us like to spend any more on any thing than we need to. I just feel if we put the best parts in and on a motor.....why not put the best oils in it?
I never had a problem with regular Valvoline 10-40. I switched when I could afford to and had nicer equipment to run. Not cause there was any problems with previous oils. Synthetics are just that....synthetic, man-made, engineered, whatever you want to call it. These lubes are genetically engineered (if you will) to stand up to heat and contaminants. They are DESIGNED to run cooler and lubricate better. I just think this is much better than just using what the dinosaurs left us. Maybe I'm way off, but that's how I look at it. :)