thrust bearing replacement

[75jetboat]

I was wondering if its possible to replace the thrust bearing without having to remove the engine?
Does the bearing slide out easily or is it a pain in the ass?!!!

[HammerDown]

I was wondering if its possible to replace the thrust bearing without having to remove the engine?
Does the bearing slide out easily or is it a pain in the ass?!!!
The bearing is pressed on the shaft, the shaft comes out the front of the pump. If you don't want to pull the engine your only other option is to maybe slide the pump out the back, then remove the Impeller, front bearing cap, slide the shaft out the front of the pump. if you don't have a setback...pulling the engine is the best option (sorry)

[75jetboat]

I have the shaft disconnected from the engine ,and the pump bowl is off . If I pull on the impeller it kinda pulls the shaft out about an inch , it doesnt have any play pushing it forward that I can tell. Is that normal ? I really dont want to have to replace the thrust bearing if I dont have to. The guy I got the boat from said that he had done an overhaul on the pump about 50 hrs before I bought it. But I dont really know the signs of a bad thrust bearing. Plus I live in an apartment and dont really have the facilities to pull the engine.

[jdf]

don't take a chance it will cost you big time later ..

[cave]

What pump do you have ? I have a Berk. JG and the shaft pulls out of the rear. There is a "C" clip that keeps the shaft in place in front of the bearing. If you have the bowl off and you have a Berkeley jc jg you can pull the shaft out from the rear AFTER you remove the retainer clip. If you have room to get a gear puller on the front with caution you could push it out the rear.
Now that you got the bowl off replace the oil seal too.

[75jetboat]

I have a berk jf pump

[75jetboat]

Also , if the thrust bearing was needing to be replaced getting on the power would move the impeller into the wear ring right? Well theres no wear anywhere on the impeller where it sits up against the wear ring

[Cs19]

change that bearing.
I forget what the F pump is, i think its like the e pump (insert pump) , youll have to pull the motor to get to the bearing if thats the case. I would get that bearing changed out, you mentioned the shaft has an inch of play... :confused: that doesnt sound healthy to me.

[Oldsquirt]

Yep, the JF is an insert pump like the JE. Difference is the odd steering/trim yoke. Engine needs to come out to remove shaft and bearing assembly.
Cave, if you were able to just slide the shaft out of the bearing, I'd be thinking there is a problem. There should be a tighter fit than that. Last one I did required a press, although not to much pressure, on both assembly and disassembly.

[Duane HTP]

cave, you have a problem if your shaft came out the back. Pulling the shaft out the back with a puller or whatever is asking for a broken pump housing. The slinger ring behind the thrust bearing can NOT pass through the packing. Trying to do so can break the lip off of the suction housing that holds the packing in place.

[cave]

Let me rephrase that OLDSQUIRT. Its a Mother F ker to get it out but on the JG it slides out the back. I thought I was going to break the bolt:D Once I got it moving it got a bit easier. I had removed my pump from the boat.
OH OH
Duane, After I removed the C clip from the front and the bowl was off, I welded up a make do dealio and welded two nuts together slipped a bolt through and with time got it out. It wasnt easy. After I reached a certain point it was easy to pull out by hand. From the back. If that was wrong then I better get back to pulling everything back out.

[BigBlockBaja]

Id take the time and replace the bearing like they all suggest. I didnt replace mine and now im paying big time for it. In addition to just replacing the bearing, Im replacing everything but the shaft and the suction housing. Plus I had to yank the motor. Save yourself the $$ and time and just replace it.... Just my opinion

[Mighty Thor]

cave, you have a problem if your shaft came out the back. Pulling the shaft out the back with a puller or whatever is asking for a broken pump housing. The slinger ring behind the thrust bearing can NOT pass through the packing. Trying to do so can break the lip off of the suction housing that holds the packing in place.
WHAT? Slinger Ring, I don't remember no stinking slinger ring? Oh crap, am I missing parts again? He has the JF insert pump, or to put it another way, he has the JE pump with the jetovator, bowl and all, right? That means the engine is sitting on the bearing retainer most likely. You can pull the C clip and loosen the packing ring and the shaft slides right out of both my JE and my JF
but no way you are getting the bearing out without taking the engine off of the bearing retainer. And just a reminder that the snap ring goes in one way or it can come out of the groove and the impeller goes grindy grindy

[cave]

I have a Berkeley JG. Not a jf or je.

[Duane HTP]

Look at these two pump diagrams. Blow them up and you will see the slinger ring. On the JF pump, it is part # 60. On the JG Diagram, it is part # 12.
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/12-JF.gif
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/12-JC.GIF
All Berkeley's have this part. It is what the suctiuon housing seal runs on. It is a pressed on part.

[cave]

That part according to Berkeley is a shaft sleeve. I know this cause I had to replace mine. Had a groove in it. I Pulled my packing out first before I pushed pump shaft out the rear. There was enough room to push it through without the packing. I welded up a deal to do it. I didn't have a press. Wish I would of kept the jig but I needed the steel for my other trailer. I buy a press next time around as it was a bitch trying to assemble, weld and strengthen as part of the removal.
The Pump seams fine but guess I'll find out next weekend. Im leak testing tonight.

[Oldsquirt]

Cave, I still cant figure out why you would go to all that trouble. It takes less than an hour to pull a JC/JG style pump. You save even more time and energy by being able to take it to a workbench for service.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

I have a 12-JF in my Taylor SS (yes, it's the "E" plus the factory nozle trim) and the shaft has to come out foreward on that pump. Pull the engine (first time I did it I just moved it sideways for a couple hours), the shaft cover is held on by allen-head bolts (if I recall correctly,) 4 or 6. It comes out easy just past the oil pan. Replace it as an insurance policy against this:
http://p208.ezboard.com/fthetaylorboatsroost52059frm7.showMessage?topicID= 71.topic
It is also possible for a blown thrust bearing allow the pump shaft to push on the coupler, which pushes on your crankshaft. This transfers ALL the engine push to your ENGINE THRUST BEARING (VERY bad). This will wreck a crankshaft eventually (sooner than later).

[cave]

OLDSQUIRT I have a Kachina and the pump doesn't just come right out. I have to remove the bowl first from the rear. Then pull the pump out from the inside. I didn't know any better on which way the shaft was suppose to go. The shaft sleeve is not much thicker and it seamed like the right way to go. I have access to a press but its wasn't tall enough for the shaft. My bearing was frozen into the pump. either way it was going to be a bitch. I thought I chose the right way. I figured that if I pushed from the front it would be more stable. From the rear I thought it would snap the thin part of the bearing carrier on the pump. Ill find out Saturday night. I'm gunna test it on the trailer.
I'll do it different next time.
75jetboat, Sorry for the wrong info.

[Oldsquirt]

OLDSQUIRT I have a Kachina and the pump doesn't just come right out. I have to remove the bowl first from the rear. Then pull the pump out from the inside.....
That sounds a little, ummm, different. Got any pics of the transom?

[Mighty Thor]

Look at these two pump diagrams. Blow them up and you will see the slinger ring. On the JF pump, it is part # 60. On the JG Diagram, it is part # 12.
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/12-JF.gif
http://www.hi-techperformance.com/images/12-JC.GIF
All Berkeley's have this part. It is what the suctiuon housing seal runs on. It is a pressed on part.
Jeeze, you scared me there for a second, That thing You called a Slinger I was calling a seal sleeve cause I didn't know what else to call it. That part I got. Whew. I was thingking slinger like on my axels that keeps the gunk away from the front axel shafts.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

I'd liike to see a pic or 2 of Cave's transom myself. His description has me THOROUGHLY confused. :messedup:

[HoffmanEagleMarine]

change that bearing.
I forget what the F pump is, i think its like the e pump (insert pump) , youll have to pull the motor to get to the bearing if thats the case. I would get that bearing changed out, you mentioned the shaft has an inch of play... :confused: that doesnt sound healthy to me.
Like Chris said, the $60-$80 thrust bearing could be a wise investment...

[cave]

Here it is. My pump doesn't go strait in. Its at a slight angle. I tried to pull it out the front whole. No go. So I tried through the rear. Still no go. So I separated the pump.
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/500/841RBA1.jpg
Cant see the angle on this pic.You can just barley see the O-ring gasket on the top where the bowl goes inside my transom adapter. Its not hard to remove once the bowl is separated from the pump housing. I myself don't understand why or how anything would break if I removed the shaft from the front to the rear. There was more than enough room for the shaft sleeve to pass through the hole without the packing.
Here is another,
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/841RBA2.jpg

[Oldsquirt]

Cave, that is a standard setup. you just remove the cast aluminum transom
adapter and the pump comes right out the back. I will agree that getting the transom adapter to pass over the bowl o-ring can be a bitch.
All the pumps are at a slight downward angle relative to the keel. The angle relative to the transom varies widely as transom angles themselves vary widely.

[Duane HTP]

Cave, You are going about it the long hard way. Just put a couple of widths of duct tape on the back of the transom around the transom housing. (This keeps you from scratching up the back of the boat). Take out the six bolts holding it on. Start a couple of putty knives in between the transom and hull and pry a little until you can get some screw drivers in there and it will come right off. Then you can get to all of the bowl and suction bolts with ease and the pump will just slide out the back. Much, much easier to do the job that way. The other important thing involved here, is that you can not index the front bearing properly when re-assembling your pump when you have taken the shaft out from the back.

[HammerDown]

... and the pump will just slide out the back. Much, much easier to do the job that way.
Someone else mentioned this in post #2 :rolleyes: