F*&%^ng Loader Bolts

[Bryan Rose]

Well after putting it off for a year I have finally decided to pull my Loader and get a better suited one for my HP and impellar now. Well it looks like I am going to have to keep it in there.... it is not wanting to come out. Rounded off the allen heads.... as if this was going to work, so I then began looking for my torx bits to drive in to the rounded off hole and broke a # 30 bit This usually works.... no joy........ Help!
Any suggestions?
Bryan

[flat broke]

if you can get "something into the head of the bolt, you might try gently heating the aluminum around the bolt before breaking it loose. Perhaps some penetrating oil if that doesn't work? But if it doesn't, you wouldn't be the first person who's had to drill out the bolts.
In the future, if you're running stainless bolts, make sure you replace them with grade 8 hardware with nuts on the back of the intake. SS and aluminum just don't seem to get along too well, and the grade 8 stuff is much stronger.
Chris

[LGCDEVIL]

Through bolted? If so, grab a couple of thin 5/16" nuts. Tighten the nuts together on the top side of the bolt, but leave some clearance so the bolt will loosen. Hose'm down w/WD-40, tap the headed side with a center punch, and see if they will break loose from the top using the two nuts. Need some room behind the motor to work, though.

[Bryan Rose]

Not through bolted and no room to do it....I let them soak with penetrating oil over night but it is upside down and it does not want to seep up..... I will try a little heat and let it cool and do it over again... I am thinking left handed bit to try and grab and turn it loose..... I am hoping to not have to drill them out. Will the heat help? Man these suckers are hard........
Bryan

[MudPumper]

When we took my frozen stock rock grate bolts out, we applied heat, immediately sprayed with penetrating oil, then used a floor jack to force the driver up into the bolt and used a wrench on the shaft of the driver to turn. They came right out. Sounds like your past that though and on your way to drilling them out which is fine because your loader bolts should be through bolted anyway.

[sdpm]

If you have a little room, weld another bolt head to the stuck one and grab it with some vice grips. If that doesn't work grind the head off leaving as much stud as you can and heat around the bolt and use vice grips. If neither of these work, then you drill. Don't try using an e-z out! If it breaks off you are way screwed!! :cry: Good luck Been there many times

[sdpm]

You know how it is Dennis. You have to get a little creative sometimes and sometimes you just beat it into submission. Oh ya yelling helps too! :D

[Heatseeker]

Sometimes you can get them to break loose by driving them with a pointed tap(3/8" or larger) and a hammer(center punches usually won't work with allens because the allens are usually harder than the punch). I got a couple of loader bolts off of my first jet this way. First, use the tap like a center punch on the bolt head, off center. Once you have a dimple established, start driving the bolt head at a slight angle toward CCW rotation. The shock from the hammer blows helps break the corrosion. I've broke many frozen bolts loose this way over the years.
The 'weld a bolt head on' method works well too(I'm surprised you've never heard of this Den. Never worked in the shipyards I see... :) ). The heat from the weld helps penetrate and loosen the corrosion and the head gives you a positive bite. I've done this many times also.
If these methods don't work, you'll have to drill them...not much fun on your back!
Good luck!

[kachina_labala]

heatseakers idea of the tap works. It works even better if you can get your buddy to apply a little turning force on the allen wrench while hammering on the tap.
P.S. wear saftey glasses! taps are very hard and can shatter.

[Heatseeker]

...P.S. wear saftey glasses! taps are very hard and can shatter.
I thought about that afterwards, always wear eye protection.
I don't think about it much since I wear glasses all the time :notam: .

[R.A.D.man]

If you do end up resorting to drilling out, you could call a good tool house and try to get left handed drill bits (not a joke). I have used them before and the bolts can unscrew from the left handed rotation of the bit before you drill out all the way simplifing the extraction.
I am afraid to remove mine for fear of the same situation you are in. I think they have been in there since 1972.

[OkieDave]

I have gotten them out with the pointed tip on an air chisel. also used a small cutting wheel to cut a slot for a flat tip screwdriver.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Just installed my new Pro-Loader from DuaneHTP a week & a 1/2 ago ........ Guess I shouldn't say the orriginal 1/4" flat-head screws from 1979 came right out? No trouble at all. Followed advice and drilled/tapped mine through for 5/16"ers and back-nutted them. Wonder if I should have used Anti-sieze on my new screws as opposed to blue locktite. :eek:
With a dremmel tool you can put a cut notch in them and apply a LARGE flat-head screwdriver ................

[PC Rat]

If you have a little room, weld another bolt head to the stuck one and grab it with some vice grips. If that doesn't work grind the head off leaving as much stud as you can and heat around the bolt and use vice grips. If neither of these work, then you drill. Don't try using an e-z out! If it breaks off you are way screwed!! :cry: Good luck Been there many times
Do you need stainless wire to weld stainless?
Brian

[NELSON#109]

I Know It May Be Hard To Find Someone, But If You Tig Weld The Threaded End Of Another Bolt On The Head Of The Bad Ones, It Will Be Strong, Wont Kill Anything With Too Much Heat, And The Will Come Out..... Just Hard To Find A Good Tig Welder. Dont Give Up, Ive Fought Em Many Times. Just Watched Some Friends Fight Some Today... Good Luck.

[Squirtin Thunder]

http://www.riverratlife.net/uploads/hdd/Avatars/bouncing_boobs.gif Because they match my boat !!!