*Alternator 911*

[Hallett19]

I have a 3 wire alternator that went south on me and I have a 1 wire in my garage from my old Taurus SHO. After getting the SHO one inspected, it works fine. My question is, how do I go about making this alternator work with my boat ?? I know the one wire will go to my battery switch, but there is a 2 prong plug on the side of the alternator that looks like it needs to be used to make it work. What do I connect these to and what do I do with the extra wires of my old externaly regulated alternator.
I need to get the boat ready for this weekend, so I am in kind of a rush, thanks for any help.
My search of the site came up with a very vauge description on how to do this swap :confused:

[J540]

I have a 3 wire alternator that went south on me and I have a 1 wire in my garage from my old Taurus SHO. After getting the SHO one inspected, it works fine. My question is, how do I go about making this alternator work with my boat ?? I know the one wire will go to my battery switch, but there is a 2 prong plug on the side of the alternator that looks like it needs to be used to make it work. What do I connect these to and what do I do with the extra wires of my old externaly regulated alternator.
I need to get the boat ready for this weekend, so I am in kind of a rush, thanks for any help.
My search of the site came up with a very vauge description on how to do this swap :confused:
The single wire go's to the main post on the starter (the Battery cable post) here call Valley Alternator in cpk, #818 882 7511 ask for mark tell him John w/the cole etc. said to talk to him. ;) I already told him you will call.

[Boatcop]

As was said. Use only marine style alternators. They are shielded so that any spark doesn't ignite gas vapors that may be in the engine compartment.
Using an automotive alternator, starter, fuel pump or distributor may cause your boat to explode and catch fire. Investigation into any fire or explosion will reveal the improper parts and any insurance will be void.
There would also be claims of negligence, making you personally liable for any injuries from said explosion or fire.
Do it right the first time.

[J540]

only use marine alt/starters,thats what i was told
Yes and pay 2X more. the starters are know different. Alt, have a spark arrestor screen on them. Stock Chevy gear reduction starters work the best, I had a 13.1 motor and it spun the shit out of it not 1 prob, in 3yr. I have the same starter on my 572 14-71 blower motor for the last 4yr's, no problems. OH and alt,

[mirvin]

There's a place in Gardena called Rotex that will rebuild your marine alternator for under $200.
mirvin

[Dr. Eagle]

There's a place in Gardena called Rotex that will rebuild your marine alternator for under $200.
mirvin
Otherwise you're DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMED!!!!!!

[J540]

There's a place in Gardena called Rotex that will rebuild your marine alternator for under $200.
mirvin
Do they give you a KISS after. Cuz that is a big F,n. you can damm near get a new"marine" Alt for that. you can buy USCG. approved screen for your old one for $50.00.

[mirvin]

Otherwise you're DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMED!!!!!!
You don't want to be doomed....
I just found my reciept. $92.01 for R&R of a marine alternator. Mines for a small block and I'm not running any big electronics so your's might cost more depending on amperage.....I think ;)
ROTEX - 310-323-5710

[mirvin]

Do they give you a KISS after. Cuz that is a big F,n. you can damm near get a new"marine" Alt for that. you can buy USCG. approved screen for your old one for $50.00.
You're right. I didn't want to low ball him though :220v:
Also I notice you don't have an engine cover. Aren't most of the "marine" specifications meant to deal with vapor build up under the hatch?? Which may explain why you have had great results from the non marine stuff.
mirvin :cool:

[HM]

only use marine alt/starters,thats what i was told
This is the old marine vs. auto parts argument. The guys that are pro auto parts are guys that have used them for years and never had a problem and therefore can't justify the price (http://www.bushwood.net/gilmore/happy06.wav) .
Like boatcop said, if you do have a problem, you are focked because not only will your insurance claim be denied and insurance cancelled, but you will be held liable for any injuries. Even if you have a PLUP (personal liability umbrella policy)...more than likely that will be denied as well.
Bottom line is that it is not all that much money to put the legal parts on compared to the cost of losing your ass. :idea:

[HM]

You're right. I didn't want to low ball him though :220v:
Also I notice you don't have an engine cover. Aren't most of the "marine" specifications meant to deal with vapor build up under the hatch?? Which may explain why you have had great results from the non marine stuff.
mirvin :cool:
The law applies to all boats, but open boats do have better circulation....most of the time.

[mirvin]

The law applies to all boats, but open boats do have better circulation....most of the time.
When did you get the Campbell?? THat thing is sweet.
Ok back to "marine parts 101".
mirvin ;)

[Deano]

I have a brand new 90 amp Ill sell you for 200

[HM]

OH, and if you sell your boat with non-marine parts....you can/will be held liable unless you have a sales contract that states the improper parts and the new owner agrees NOT to drive it until he replaces the parts.
If you don't agree, call Progressive and tell them the situation and when they stop laughing, they will let you know if they will insure you or not. :wink:

[Dr. Eagle]

You don't want to be doomed....
I just found my reciept. $92.01 for R&R of a marine alternator. Mines for a small block and I'm not running any big electronics so your's might cost more depending on amperage.....I think ;)
ROTEX - 310-323-5710
Nah I wasn't talking about the $$$ I was talking about the marine vs. automotive question. Honestly I figured a rebuild would be around $100...

[HM]

When did you get the Campbell?? THat thing is sweet.
Ok back to "marine parts 101".
mirvin ;)
I have had it since 2003 - that pic is at the CBBB II (2003), but my dad owned it for 10 years prior.
oh yeah, back to the marine vs....I mean 1 wire alternator. :cool:

[Hallett19]

How in GOD'S GOOD NAME AM I SUPPOSED TO GET THIS F-ING PULLEY OFF !?!?!?!?!?!?!!??!!?!?!?!??!!? :mad: http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/128Picture.jpg
Between my radiator leaking today, my check engine light coming on saying my coil is malfunctioning........... GRRRRR@#$#@%@
So I went and got the pep-boys warranty alternator, see if I can get another season out of it before I get a new marine one.
But back to my question, how am I supposed to get this thing off ? I cant fit a wrench, a ratchet with a allen wrench, ?? Do I need a special tool ??? My day can only get shittier from here on out so anything will help !!!

[Hallett19]

ttt.... I need to get this done tonight, I wont have time later this week to do this !! :cry:

[Froggystyle]

I would personally go for the marine version with a closed hatch and an older boat, but....
If you can stop the pulley from moving you can usually turn the nut with a socket.

[HM]

Yah, those nuts can be tough to get off (no wise cracks from ....well, from me.)
I put an allen wrench in a vice and then put the alternator on the allen wrench and then use the right size wrench. I think I used cuprinol (liquid copper) to help loosen the nut, and I think I bought the wrench as well.

[Hallett19]

Come on Wes, we all know I could never follow a stupid rule like "use marine equipment on a boat"... geezzz :D
I put the pulley on a vise and turned the nut with a socket, but it turns the whole shaft, it needs to be held with an allen and then turned with a socket, but that is impossible, I am really dying over here !! :frown:
The bottom line is, the nuts and shaft are firmly attatched and dont seem to want to be seperated.... :rollside:

[HP350SC]

If you don't have an impact gun, most any shop will buzz it off for you for $5.
What is wrong with your marine alternator? It is very easy to swap out the regulator and brush holder, that's usually what's wrong.
As mentioned, DON'T USE THAT CAR ALTERNATOR! :boxed:

[BoatPI]

Install that SHO one and one day you will be blown into the river. Same for starters, distributors, etc.

[Hallett19]

I'll run this car one for a few trips, looks like I'll have to get this thing taken off by a mechanic, just wondering if anyone had any tricks. Thanks guys !!

[Boatcop]

I'll run this car one for a few trips, looks like I'll have to get this thing taken off by a mechanic, just wondering if anyone had any tricks. Thanks guys !!
I'll beg you one last time to reconsider, and do it right the first time. Listen to Me and Keith (Boat PI).
Me and my boys will end up having to do the initial investigation on the explosion, and Keith and his boys will end up doing the investigation for the Insurance Company and/or the Plaintiffs' Attorney(s).
Believe us. We've seen these things, and the aftermath, too many times to take it nonchalantly.

[Jordy]

As mentioned, DON'T USE THAT CAR ALTERNATOR! :boxed:
Install that SHO one and one day you will be blown into the river. Same for starters, distributors, etc.
I'll beg you one last time to reconsider, and do it right the first time. Listen to Me and Keith (Boat PI).
Hey, I'm picking up on a theme here. All it takes is one time and you're going to have a whole new definition of a "smokin' jacket." Don't cut corners on this one. ;)

[Rexone]

The bottom line is, the nuts and shaft are firmly attatched and dont seem to want to be seperated.... :rollside:
:jawdrop: :jawdrop:

[Rexone]

Impact wrench and hang on to the fan (not with your bare hand), buzz it right off.

[Rexone]

So lets see, maybe a 1% chance in an open boat something will cause an explosion with an automotive electronic part (yes it happens). First you prolly need a little fuel leak of some kind to get some nice fumes going and calm wind.
So the way I read some of the above some will just roll the dice they'll fall into the 99% group and remain alive or unburned along with their families and friends. I guess its all on how you view it. I'll just spend the extra hundie and avoid the 1% gamble of killing someone and losing a lifes worth of progress from the resulting litigation.
(The percentage above is only for illustrative purposes and in no way represents any kind of formal study of likelihood of an explosion, the number could be higher or lower)

[Hallett19]

Mike, I was at your store today picking up some exhaust flappers. Why do some last 6 months and other a few years ?
I will get the marine one after this trip, but I just need to get it on the water for now.

[Rexone]

Mike, I was at your store today picking up some exhaust flappers. Why do some last 6 months and other a few years ?
I will get the marine one after this trip, but I just need to get it on the water for now.
I you're talking about the little screw on kind in bell tips, they suck. If you get a few years out of any of those you are a lucky guy. 6 mo is even not too bad for those.

[Raskal]

i got one in riverside for 160. all new rebuild and marine daves dc eletric

[Froggystyle]

I will get the marine one after this trip, but I just need to get it on the water for now.
I don't know why, but I keep hearing echoes of Mr Pumps posting about how fast they were going to go just hours before the HTM flipped and killed him.
This is going to end up being a really shitty thread some day if you end up blown up in a boat explosion Aaron. This is not a good way to cut costs for the weekend.
Personally, I would have anyone planning on riding in the boat fork over an extra $40 right now for the correct alternator for the weekend. That, or you don't need to go to the river with them.