One way valve for Bilge outlet?

[dregsz]

Hi All, My bilge outlet is below the waterline when I have full gas tanks (low profile) and is suspect for draining water back into the bilge.
Is ther a one way valve that I can install so water doesn't drain back in?
Where would I get one.
Thanks
Evan

[Rexone]

There isn't a one way valve I've ever found that has a low enough pressure open point to work with a bilge pump. I've dealt with the problem you describe before by simply routing the bilge hose up inside the gunnel or transom as high as possible (like a hump) to keep the water from backflowing into the bilge from outside. You can the the ty wraps the the glue plate on them and use a little epoxy to stick them right to the underside of the top of the transom or deck and hold the hose up in that manner. At least this has worked for me in the past a couple times.

[wsuwrhr]

Can you switch the bilge dump with your engine dump?
Brian

[*BN*]

I have sold many of these to boaters for use on the water inlet and fuel systems.
They come is stainless and work really well.
I have one on the water inlet so the water hot water will stay in the block after warming up on the trailer. It keeps the hot water from backing out of the block. Not sure if that helps a v-drive but for jetters it works very well.
On my application I have an electric and a mechanical fuel pump. I have placed one on the electric line so that the mechanical will not force fuel back through the electric.
They make these in SS and Bronze and are relatively inexpensive.
In Line Check Valve (http://www.conbraco.com/products/check/techtemplate1.asp?section=B&category=Steel&pid=62-100)

[Rexone]

Never tested but I doubt the average bilge pump will crack open even a 5 lb valve. Route the line high no need for valve on bilge line anyway. IMO of course. :smile:

[coolchange]

If its a check ball valve take out the spring and orient it so gravity holds the ball down. As long as the bilge side is under water and the lake side is in the water it will siphon back if there is water in the hose no matter how high the line is. When the bilge is dry it gets a vacuum break when air travels up the line. You need to make a vacuum break ABOVE the water line in the hose but then it will piss back in the boat a little.

[haulina29]

Gman WTF lots on knowledge here ! you new? :hammerhea

[*BN*]

Never tested but I doubt the average bilge pump will crack open even a 5 lb valve. Route the line high no need for valve on bilge line anyway. IMO of course. :smile:
Rex, I think your looking at the OPTIONS section.
Stock the check valve only needs .5 psi to crack.

[superdave013]

A Rule 500 would not open a -16 swing check valve when I tried it. I'd very lightly blow in it and it'd open right up. Put it back in the boat and no worky worky. Take it out and lil rule would pump just fine.
If BN's deal works I'll get one too.

[Rexone]

Rex, I think your looking at the OPTIONS section.
Stock the check valve only needs .5 psi to crack.
I don't know if the average bilge pump will even push the 1/2lb valve open but would be interesting to find out. I'm sure they'd work fine in water inlet and fuel apps if they're rated for fuel in terms of material.
CC, If the loop is at the top of the transom inside and that hose is full of water, you have about 30 seconds till your boat sinks with the next wave over the back anyway so bilge pump ain't gonna help. The point being it you have a loop high there won't be water in the loop above waterline level for it to start a siphon and if there is your boat already should have sunk. I have a very low freeboard boat set up with these loop lines on (2) 2000 gph pumps and have never had a siphon issue back into the boat as the water cannot get over the hump (because hump is above waterline). Automatic switches would solve that concern anyway even if it were one by switching on the pumps and reversing the flow if the water were to rise.
H29 yes kinda new :D

[BK]

A Rule 500 would not open a -16 swing check valve when I tried it. I'd very lightly blow in it and it'd open right up. Put it back in the boat and no worky worky. Take it out and lil rule would pump just fine.
If BN's deal works I'll get one too.
A swing check would definatley be the only thing that would work, its got the lowest oppening pressure as apposed to spring type check valves. Ive had good luck with Kitz valves, the ones im using have a .05 oppening pressure and have worked real well.

[Heatseeker]

I used a PVC inline check valve with success on my last boat. My outlet on the current skiff is above the water line, so I didn't use it this time. I'll see if I can dig it up and post the specs.

[Prime 8780]

You could use a swing check valve that uses no spring that was stated in the post above, or you could switch pumps and use a water puppy I know Rexone could help you out with that.
Good luck
Mike@ Prime Marine
www.primemarineusa.com

[FlatStupid]

You could use a swing check valve that uses no spring that was stated in the post above, or you could switch pumps and use a water puppy I know Rexone could help you out with that.
Good luck
Mike@ Prime Marine
www.primemarineusa.com Or you could build a Sanger flattie and double B would have to start paintin! :wink: How is it Mikey? :)

[Prime 8780]

Hello Craig,
It's good the fiberglass guy just came by about 6:30 tonight to see what needs to be handled. He told us that he will schedule it for sometime next week. How's the engine coming? I will be calling you soon to go over some details.
Talk to you soon
Mike @ Prime Marine
www.primemarineusa.com