Anyone running a hydraulic roller cam in a jet?

[wet77]

I am building my 540 and would like to use a hydraulic roller cam in my motor any one using one or are they all mechanical?
Buying parts this week so input would be great!! :D

[SmokinLowriderSS]

I'm running a straight flat hydraulic in a 454 and, since I am trying to keep my revs below 6,000 at only .565 lift, I didn't see the reason to spend 2x+ $$$$ to go roller hydraulic. I think you'll find quite a few though.
My cam kit (including springs, retainers, polylocks, shims, cam, lifters, was only $400. Hyd/roller was about $950 for no real gain. My Taylor has to pull primary duty as a working lake boat towing skiiers/tubers which is why I didn't want to get so much lift as to destroy my idling ability below 1500RPM.

[mrgoslow]

i use a clay smith hydr rlr. no trouble

[flat broke]

I believe HBJet runs a Hyd roller setup in his deal.
Chris

[Cs19]

I would think the majority of the guys here are running hydralic?
Hustlers got a nasty one in his blown motor if i remember correctly.

[wet77]

Thanks for all the reply's from what I have heard if you go over 6000 rpm with a roller hydraulic cam it could cause some major problems in the valve train :confused:
Just do not want to spend all this money on my motor and watch it destroy itself ya know :cool:
I really want to run a roller hydraulic because of not having to set valve lash all the time!!
What lift and max rpm are you guys seeing??
My builder was thinking 650 and above on lift at least.

[Hal]

I have a Crane hyd. roller cam with a lift of 630/620. Run it up to 6000 rpm at WOT. No problems with it.

[ELIMINAT THIS]

I have a I/O. With a hyd. roller 5900 to 6000 for miles at a time no problem.YET :cool:

[HBjet]

680/680 lift and no problems. Hustler even has a bigger cam then me, but I'm not sure what RPM he's turning.
HBjet

[SmokinLowriderSS]

It's all got to be a balanced system wet77. 6,000 rpm is a LOT of revs to turn anyhow for extended periods and you need solid parts to do it reliably, both in the valvetrain and the lower end. IMHO the higher revs are much more suited to roller lifters (hydraulic or not) than to flat lifters. My hydraulics are Isky Superlifters, "guaranteed" not to pump up till over 7,000RPM. My 454 is NEVER gonna see 7-large unles I am airborne and asleep at the same time. Lotsa guys are running more lift than I am at .565 but I have to keep a lake-boat running good to pull skiiers/tubes as well as have good breathing muscle on top. The 454 is designed for 6,200 to 6,600 RPM for extended time like track racing, I have to assume the 540 being so much larger with heavier parts and a longer stroke is going to red-line that much lower. Possibly below 6,000RPM.
I think your decision on roller or not is best determined by how much lift you plan to run and what your corresponding spring rates are going to be. At a certain pressure, the springs will be killing a flat tappet hydraulic cam. I bought my new cam in a kit with the lifters and springs, all from Iskendarian. Let somebody that knows more than me decide what is the best balanced setup for the performance I want. I just decided lift, duration, overlap, and style (with advice from DuaneHTP) blended with my budget.
I suppose none of this long-winded soapbox speech was a help. :confused: sorry if it wasn't.

[wet77]

After advice from HTP I am going with a roller mechanical and am just goingto have to learn how to set valve lash :frown:
Hope it gives me the fun I am looking for and not to many headaches :cool:
Its that need for speed Ya know :2purples:

[Liberator TJ1984]

Once everything gets broken in , you should be able to set lash and run all season if you set everything right :confused:
I run a solid roller 632 lift and usually ck & set once a season , ( but my lift and duration is mild for a roller )unless I hear something strange :D
Run a good quality stud girdle and locking nuts , that helps alot to make sure settings stay put ;)

[XClutchboy725]

It's all got to be a balanced system wet77. 6,000 rpm is a LOT of revs to turn anyhow for extended periods and you need solid parts to do it reliably, both in the valvetrain and the lower end. IMHO the higher revs are much more suited to roller lifters (hydraulic or not) than to flat lifters. My hydraulics are Isky Superlifters, "guaranteed" not to pump up till over 7,000RPM. My 454 is NEVER gonna see 7-large unles I am airborne and asleep at the same time. Lotsa guys are running more lift than I am at .565 but I have to keep a lake-boat running good to pull skiiers/tubes as well as have good breathing muscle on top. The 454 is designed for 6,200 to 6,600 RPM for extended time like track racing, I have to assume the 540 being so much larger with heavier parts and a longer stroke is going to red-line that much lower. Possibly below 6,000RPM.
I think your decision on roller or not is best determined by how much lift you plan to run and what your corresponding spring rates are going to be. At a certain pressure, the springs will be killing a flat tappet hydraulic cam. I bought my new cam in a kit with the lifters and springs, all from Iskendarian. Let somebody that knows more than me decide what is the best balanced setup for the performance I want. I just decided lift, duration, overlap, and style (with advice from DuaneHTP) blended with my budget.
I suppose none of this long-winded soapbox speech was a help. :confused: sorry if it wasn't.
not longwinded.....just good advice in my opinion.

[XClutchboy725]

680/680 lift and no problems. Hustler even has a bigger cam then me, but I'm not sure what RPM he's turning.
HBjet
Randy, What RPM at WOT?

[flat broke]

Randy, What RPM at WOT?
I'm guessing he's spinning between 6 and 6200. I know Hacker was able to spin his impeller to 6 even, and he and Randy's mills were similar in terms of HP and they were both sportin MPD "B" impellers
We gonna see you in August Jeff?
Chris

[XClutchboy725]

I'm sad to report that we won't be able to attend the CBBB this year. :cry:
My family made arrangements early this year to rent a houseboat on Lake Shasta for a week. Unfortunately, those plans conflict with the same weekend.
It will be a bittersweet vacation. This will be the first CBBB we've missed.

[Jet City]

After advice from HTP I am going with a roller mechanical and am just goingto have to learn how to set valve lash :frown:
Hope it gives me the fun I am looking for and not to many headaches :cool:
Its that need for speed Ya know :2purples:
If you go with a mechanical roller, get the lifters that have a pin oiling feature such as Comp Endura, Isky red zone or Crower Hippo, this will supply oil to the roller during idle and live much longer in a lake boat application. Like Liberator said, stud girdles will help keep things in adjustment longer, be sure to get stud girdle specific rocker studs (less runout, better fitment).

[wet77]

Plan to go with Dart pro 1 cnc heads and titanium retainers with Inconol Exhaust valves :cool:

[NELSON#109]

solid roller is the way to go. adjusting the valves isnt that hard after you do it a few times, and if you do it right the first time, you should be able to make it all season w/o any adjustment. ive run solids all season, and i boat about 150 hrs a year (used to at least). dont be afraid of them. if you boat a lot, pull the valve covers after about 25 hrs n check em. i just checked mine after the last race. over 900 hp, ran it up to 8300 rpms on several launches, and it runs 7600 down the track. after the race, they havent moved. seven passes. you did the right thing by talking with duane, i think he will get you hooked up w/ the right cam. now go out n hold it to the floor till ur eyes melt. nelson#109

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Thx xClutchboy, I try.
Lotsa guys here have more experience than I do making heavy-breathing motors and tuning jets so I learn more than I pass along most of the time. It's a good thing. I do try to stay awake in class. :cool:

[ttmott]

Wet77,
A couple of things that may help you:
I have stepped down from a 310 grind Comp P/N 11-745-9 (.772/.772) mechanical to a 300 grind Comp P/N 11-694-8 (.652/.652) mechanical for several critical reasons. Primarily the spring rates were so high that I was spending more time and money keeping up with the wear than having fun with the boat. The lower duration, in my case, kept the engine peak torque at a more usable rpm (around 4500 to 6000). The bigger lifts (greater than the mid .600's) require dilligent maintence and adjustment about every time you run the boat. This is a simple fact due to the stresses in the valve train imposed by the heavy springs and radical geometry. If you opt for a hyd roller I believe you will have the best of both worlds; reasonable valve train geometry, excellent engine throttle response, and no valve lash adjustment.
Now for a couple of tricks. If you opt for a large (in the .700 range) cam you can install a rev kit and reduce the valve spring pressures greatly. If you don't know a rev kit is a separate spring kit that goes under the head to the lifters. I run this even with the smaller cam as it guarentees the lifters will stay planted on the cam even in the event of a failure in a rocker or push rod; very critical for saving the costly cam components and maintaining oil pressure. In all cases, very critical that all of the components are a matched set; roller cams are a different breed and are very sensative to spring behavior. Spend some time talking to the folks at Crane, Comp, Iski or Clay Smith to make sure you have the right combination.
Hope this helps....

[wet77]

solid roller is the way to go. adjusting the valves isnt that hard after you do it a few times, and if you do it right the first time, you should be able to make it all season w/o any adjustment. ive run solids all season, and i boat about 150 hrs a year (used to at least). dont be afraid of them. if you boat a lot, pull the valve covers after about 25 hrs n check em. i just checked mine after the last race. over 900 hp, ran it up to 8300 rpms on several launches, and it runs 7600 down the track. after the race, they havent moved. seven passes. you did the right thing by talking with duane, i think he will get you hooked up w/ the right cam. now go out n hold it to the floor till ur eyes melt. nelson#109
Thanks for the support the valve lash tunning I thought would be every tank of fuel :jawdrop:
Good to know its not that bad.
Some quick specs on the motor
540 dart with Billet mains
dart heads inconol valves
JE pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Scat 4340 crank
Victor jr intake/850 carb
HEI ignition
Mech roller cam lift?? still in the talks
electric fuel pump
Motor is going on dyno I will let everyone know what the results are.
Just got back Agressor bronze B cut with inducer from HTP
IN a berk JG, shoe, ride plate new style place diverter, Manual trim
Boat is a 1985 eliminator (only 10 hours on the hull!!!) looks like the one in my avatar :D
Hope to be in the water asap
Lots of help from the board is making that possible :D :D

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Once you get to the water, "THE TUNING" begins then. :D THAT may take quite a few tanks of gas. I am speaking of tuning the drive/boat/engine combination as a set for best speeds, acceleration, ride angle, RPM's, man-o-man a lot of variables. Keep coming back here, lots of experience here.

[LVjetboy]

"Thanks for all the reply's from what I have heard if you go over 6000 rpm with a roller hydraulic cam it could cause some major problems in the valve train"
http://members.cox.net/lvjetboy/HydraulicMax.jpg
Crane hydraulic roller and cam in a 540 at 6200...similar to your original post. No major problems so far. Adjusting lash no big deal, yet time consuming and a hassle especially before or after a lake trip. Maybe worth 50 hp? At the power you're gonna run, is your time worth an extra 50 hp? Not saying all hydraulics go to advertised rpm. Just pointing out the compromize...
Race or lake?
I don't need or want that extra 3-4 mph solids, more lift and periodic lash adjustments may give me.
Besides all that, with an Aggressor B cut you're gonna need at least 100 hp over my 540 to turn 6200 rpm. You got that? If not, then no worry about exceeding 6k with the Aggressor B.
jer

[LVjetboy]

"Thanks for the support the valve lash tunning I thought would be every tank of fuel. Good to know its not that bad."
Not that bad at all. What the heck. Your 540 with an Aggressor B probably needs solids no doubt. Let us know what you turn, or not. (I get a bit sarcastic sometimes...sorry)
jer

[wet77]

"Thanks for the support the valve lash tunning I thought would be every tank of fuel. Good to know its not that bad."
Not that bad at all. What the heck. Your 540 with an Aggressor B probably needs solids no doubt. Let us know what you turn, or not. (I get a bit sarcastic sometimes...sorry)
jer
Going with a Isky cam from HTP
When this mess is finally over and I actually get to hit the water I will post my #'s.
Aslo the motor is going on a dyno so we will see what the #'s are :crossx:

[bp]

My 454 is NEVER gonna see 7-large unles I am airborne and asleep at the same time. Lotsa guys are running more lift than I am at .565 but I have to keep a lake-boat running good to pull skiiers/tubes as well as have good breathing muscle on top. The 454 is designed for 6,200 to 6,600 RPM for extended time like track racing, I have to assume the 540 being so much larger with heavier parts and a longer stroke is going to red-line that much lower. possibly below 6,000RPM.
why would you assume that a 540 has heavier parts? you know what happens when you assume?
nelson's right on. solid roller is the only way to go. after 3+ years, i still check mine after every race or two, but very seldom have to make any adjustments. my good friend that runs frequently on the river and at the track, with a similar setup is the same - checks frequently, few adjustments. the valve train remains tight, and the
on the old prostock deal with .950 lift, we checked lash after each pass and often had adjustments to make, had to shim springs after 20 or so passes, new springs after 30 or so. of course we were running that at 8600rpm through a reduction gear. with good springs, and lifts in the .700 range, rpm in the mid 6k range, the components can live quite well for a very long time.
speaking of the weight of parts, how much does a run of the mill NHRA 500" pro stock engine's crankshaft weigh? those engines only make in excess of 1300hp, and they don't throw ALL the parts away after every run (especially the cranks).

[wet77]

Anything I should look at as far as helping the rocker nuts stay put??
This is all new to me so I need advice :)
I was told something about locking nuts with set screws??

[wet77]

Oh yeah I will find out soon about the lift on the cam but I think it was around .650 - .680??

[bp]

Anything I should look at as far as helping the rocker nuts stay put??
This is all new to me so I need advice :)
I was told something about locking nuts with set screws??
rocker nuts??? wet, what you're looking into here is an entirely different ballgame. jesels, crane golds, etc., use screws to adjust lash that are locked with nuts. but the main thing is selecting a good system for your application that will keep the valve train tight. for example, if you installed a relatively hi lift roller cam around .700, and only replaced your stock rockers with crane golds, the stock studs are gonna bend around so much that your valve train won't stay tight, so that system would need a stud girdle. stud girdles make valve adjustment a little trickier, but they work. with a roller system, it is critical that the valve train geometry is installed correctly (pushrod length, rollers over the valves, etc.), and that the components remain tight during operation.
just for the heck of it, go to www.jegs.com, or summitracing and look at all the different types of valve train components available.

[wet77]

rocker nuts??? wet, what you're looking into here is an entirely different ballgame. jesels, crane golds, etc., use screws to adjust lash that are locked with nuts. but the main thing is selecting a good system for your application that will keep the valve train tight. for example, if you installed a relatively hi lift roller cam around .700, and only replaced your stock rockers with crane golds, the stock studs are gonna bend around so much that your valve train won't stay tight, so that system would need a stud girdle. stud girdles make valve adjustment a little trickier, but they work. with a roller system, it is critical that the valve train geometry is installed correctly (pushrod length, rollers over the valves, etc.), and that the components remain tight during operation.
just for the heck of it, go to www.jegs.com, or summitracing and look at all the different types of valve train components available.
I believe my builder is going to use comp magnum roller rockers.
Inconel exhaust valves, titanium retainers on the dart pro1 heads

[LVjetboy]

Bp posted: "...nelson's right on. solid roller is the only way to go."
Only way to go...why Bp? Because adjusting is no big deal no matter application? Does wet77's lift and/or rpm make it so? Is 0.650 lift enough to demand a solid? He posted not sure about lift. Or is it 6k rpm? So what do you think he'll turn his Aggressor B?
jer

[bp]

Bp posted: "...nelson's right on. solid roller is the only way to go."
Only way to go...why Bp? Because adjusting is no big deal no matter application? Does wet77's lift and/or rpm make it so? Is 0.650 lift enough to demand a solid? He posted not sure about lift. Or is it 6k rpm? So what do you think he'll turn his Aggressor B?
jer
rather than question/argue with me (and/or nelson), why not just tell wet your opinions why hydraulic rollers are better than solid rollers, and let it go at that?

[Cs19]

hyd. cams are for lazy people.

[moneysucker]

hyd. cams are for lazy people.
Why didn't someone tell me this before. I Qualify. That would give me more time to polish.

[HBjet]

hyd. cams are for lazy people.
Really?

[Hustler]

hyd. cams are for lazy people.
I'll go to solid if you adjust them on the Hustler :D

[Jet City]

I believe my builder is going to use comp magnum roller rockers.
Inconel exhaust valves, titanium retainers on the dart pro1 heads
If you plan on .650 or more lift scratch the Pro Magnum rockers from your list, I was warned of this myself and I confirmed with a call to Comp tech's, step up to Comps Hi-Tech series.

[LVjetboy]

"rather than question/argue with me (and/or nelson), why not just tell wet your opinions why hydraulic rollers are better than solid rollers, and let it go at that?"
I give my opinions all the time Bp. :D But what good are opinions with no debate? You posted solids the only way to go. I'm not saying hydraulics are better or worse than solids, that depends on application. I figured the limits of hydraulics are worth questioning/argueing, and Wet77's thread seemed a good place since he brought it up. So I ask you a few questions which I think go to the bottom line.
- What rpm will wet77 turn an Aggressor B? (How much power?)
- Does his lift at that rpm require solids?
jer

[wet77]

Ok so what's wrong with the magnum rockers :2purples:
I think the lift is .688 on the cam its been a long day :sleeping:
I was told with the motor I was building and the pump setup I could see from 6200-6500 rpm :220v:
I was warned by HTP that a hydrualic roller at those rpm's was not a good idea :argue:
Duane if your out there chime in :cool:

[wet77]

Oh yeah this is alot of guess work and going by what others say because I have never had this boat in the water yet and am not sure what is to be expected :clover:
I have posted since I bought the boat over a year ago and have recieved many helpfull pointers from everyone on the boards especially the ones with the same 21' daytona as me :D
I actually was convinced to drop my 468 motor and go to the 540 after some replies on me wanting to "SOMEDAY" see 100mph in my boat.
Maybe that means lots of NOS, no seats, fumes in the tank, and perfect water but I would like to do it once in a boat I worked on :D
In the future :D :D
With all the help here it should be one hell of a ride :jawdrop:
My last jet did a honest 70 mph just setting my goals higher:chi:

[HBjet]

If you plan on .650 or more lift scratch the Pro Magnum rockers from your list, I was warned of this myself and I confirmed with a call to Comp tech's, step up to Comps Hi-Tech series.
I would only agree to this if you are using the Comp Valve Springs I was using... Since one of my springs broke last year and I had to replace them all, we noticed the springs were about a 1/2 inch shorter then when they went into the motor (DNE tested each one to see how much loss each one had) Due to this, the rockers started to or came close to starting to hit the retainers and a few of the rockers themselves needed to be rebuilt.
Now run ISKY springs and retainers. Rockers are fixed and she is running strong!
HBjet

[Jet City]

Ok so what's wrong with the magnum rockers :2purples:
I think the lift is .688 on the cam its been a long day :sleeping:
I was told with the motor I was building and the pump setup I could see from 6200-6500 rpm :220v:
I was warned by HTP that a hydrualic roller at those rpm's was not a good idea :argue:
Duane if your out there chime in :cool:
I couldn't tell you why Comp doesn't recommend the Pro-Magnums for above .650 lift, I didn't ask them for particulars, I just went ahead and spent a few bucks more and bought the SS Hi-Tech's.

[FILUCKY]

Hey WET77, is that a 20' scorpion jet? If so i thought i would just throw out a few numbers for ya. My scorpion with about 850 HP. was high 90's and with new motor 1020 HP i'm hoping for about 108 MPH. And as far as lifters, i run solids on all performance applications, as much money as you can spend looking for that last 50 HP why pass it up on lifters?

[wet77]

No its a 21' daytona eliminator just like the picture in my avatar :)
Thats not my boat but what I hope it will look like some day in the water :cool:
I am going with Isky springs in the heads with titanium retainers,with inconel exhaust valves after the post about the rockers I spoke with my builder and he is going to call comp and check it out for my aplication :idea:
We are going to run .800 isky springs and he said something about adjusting them so they wont hurt the lifters??
Its all a learning experience for me :rollside:

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Dunno if this is what he means but when I installed my new cam kit this spring from Duane (a measely .565 lift on lazy hydraulics ($500 more I didn't have could have gotten me lazy-rollers)) :boxingguy He advised me to leave the inner springs out for break-in, thus reducing the force on the cam & lifters. Maybe he means something similar? I'll be putting my full springs in soon as I get a bit more time on my motor (only about 8 hrs now), then I can see what the new setup has when hit with my old N2O setup. 'Course, I'm running a 400HP family ski/tube boat (with an "Ace-in-the-hole" er, engine bay). :D

[bp]

I give my opinions all the time Bp. :D But what good are opinions with no debate?
opinions are always good, especially if they have some fact behind them. now, our engines are very similar, with one of the few disimilaritys being that you have hydraulics and i have solids (our rockers are also different, but that's because mine is older). doesn't mean either of us are right or wrong, but we aren't going to agree so i see no reason to debate about it.
and i say bs, that if you're trying to maximize power within certain parameters, say with a dart 540 and dart cnc pro 1s, why waste your time with a hydraulic roller valve train? plus, this idea that guys like me are constantly adjusting valves is more bs.
[QUOTE=LVjetboy]
I figured the limits of hydraulics are worth questioning/argueing, and Wet77's thread seemed a good place since he brought it up.
i have no idea what those limits might be, and i'm not terribly interested in it, but wet might be. how i feel about it is this. in maintaining the schmidt engine for 2 1/2 years, and also seeing what others were doing, one thing that sticks is: with .950 lift, you don't run hydraulics. pretty simple, right? the thing is, if pro stock sets their valve trains up with certain components and achieves a certain level of reliability, if you reduce the level of stress, do you increase the level of reliability? without getting into the details, the answer is yes. the quality of components available today allow us to run the same "type" of valve train, at reduced lifts and rpm, for a very long time.
to me, this is basically "detuning" something that i know will work well. my choice is to go that way, rather than place another part in the system that may be close to it's edge in performance, and in fact, may not provide me the performance level i'm after.
then again, if ALL i wanted to do was cruise, and rarely pound the throttle for 2-3 seconds, basically babying the thing, who knows, maybe i'd go that way. but... i doubt it. :cool:
So I ask you a few questions which I think go to the bottom line.
- What rpm will wet77 turn an Aggressor B? (How much power?)
- Does his lift at that rpm require solids?
jer
1. dunno. old, or new? blueprinted or stock? since the engine isn't done yet, and he has no dyno numbers yet, it's difficult to say what rpm the engine will turn.
2. i say with the engine he's building, for optimum performance, solid rollers would be desirable in the 680-700 lift range.
smokindude, people don't leave valve springs out of roller motors. the valve train has to stay tight, whether it's hydraulic or not. there are little rollers and little bearings in several locations, and if the valve train starts banging because the springs aren't tight enough to keep up with the engine, really bad things can start to happen. a beaten up roller can beat up the cam, which in turn can eat up the block; all bad.
and his engine will idle just fine, tow skiers, all that stuff...

[steelcomp]

Dunno if this is what he means but when I installed my new cam kit this spring from Duane (a measely .565 lift on lazy hydraulics ($500 more I didn't have could have gotten me lazy-rollers)) :boxingguy He advised me to leave the inner springs out for break-in, thus reducing the force on the cam & lifters. Maybe he means something similar? I'll be putting my full springs in soon as I get a bit more time on my motor (only about 8 hrs now), then I can see what the new setup has when hit with my old N2O setup. 'Course, I'm running a 400HP family ski/tube boat (with an "Ace-in-the-hole" er, engine bay). :D
The reason you have to leave your inner springs out is that you have a flat tappet cam. This requires a break in period where the lifter face and cam lobe surface "mate". Too much spring pressure during this break in period, especially at low engine speeds or idling, will cause galling...metal transfer between the lifter and cam lobe, and quickly ruin your cam. Roller cams don't have this problem, since the roller is rolling on the cam lobe, and not wiping across it like a flat tappet lifter.
Most guys set their heads up with way too much spring pressure as it is, which robs HP. Your cam could get away with a good single spring with a dampner. 95-100# on the seat, 275-280 open. More than enough. :coffeycup

[Cs19]

My scorpion with about 850 HP. was high 90's and with new motor 1020 HP i'm hoping for about 108 MPH.
:supp:

[kojac]

hyd. cams are for lazy people.
How about people that just don't want to spend the time and money on taking off valve covers? resealing the covers with new gaskets? time spent on adjusting valves? and maybe don't have the physical or mechanical capacity or knowledge to adjust valves correctly?
Don't get me wrong. All five of my engines have mechanical rollers but I still don't like the idea of being on the water and having to think I made a mistake in adjustments due to not seeing correctly, or due to arthritis pain not being able to feel the tightness of lash or the strength to tightnen them. It would make boating a lot more enjoyable knowing I didn't have to check valve lash so often. Most of the time when I check them they are not out but I still feel like I gotta check them.
By the way my valve train is all jessel rocker system.
The only one I feel comfortable about is my brothers small street roller by comp. Five years and still not any adjustments required except after initial start up? I still check them though.
Maybe my next one will be hydraulic.
Kojac

[Cs19]

kojac, just jokin around, I have nothing against hyd. roller cams or the lazy people who run em. :D

[Liberator TJ1984]

Hey WET77, is that a 20' scorpion jet? If so i thought i would just throw out a few numbers for ya. My scorpion with about 850 HP. was high 90's and with new motor 1020 HP i'm hoping for about 108 MPH. And as far as lifters, i run solids on all performance applications, as much money as you can spend looking for that last 50 HP why pass it up on lifters?
What ??? the 557 wasn't big enough :hammer2: :D

[HBjet]

kojac, just jokin around, I have nothing against hyd. roller cams or the lazy people who run em. :D
Kojac, don't worry about CS19 because when he's adjusting his valves, his girl is kicking it on my boat!!!:D
CS19, lakes boats have hyd. roller cams, race boats have mech. roller cams, and "wanna be" race boats run there mech. roller cam motors at the river!!! :D
HBjet :)

[FILUCKY]

NO WAY! My A460 headed motor ran strong but i still had to worry about a few of you blown guys. So i went crazy and did a full on Prostock motor with the C460 set up and 15:1 and a little cam(same as my A460 motor).713-276/286 110 LS. And yes its solid!(cs19) Fully CNC'd and looking very tame with the single Dominator setup (easier to draw in my pray!)

[SmokinLowriderSS]

The valve spring set I'm running is a 3-piece set, 2 springs (outter and inner) with a damper. I can see where with a moderate lift cam and moderate RPM that my setup may not need the inner valve springs to be reliable, just the outers with dampers, to keep everything tight.
I'm only running 4,700 RPM max right now WFO. Once I get the full springs in, we;ll see. She used to run 4850 dry and 5200 on N2O bu that was with a much different loader, cast iron dual plane intake, and .480 lift GM cam.
With my full kit installed, I've got more cam setup than I am going to ever put through my crank. It should be float-proof to way over 6-large.

[LVjetboy]

Wet77, first you mentioned 6k rpm, "I have heard if you go over 6000 rpm with a roller hydraulic cam it could cause some major problems in the valve train," later you posted 6.2 to 6.5K and your desire to reach 100 w/NOS. You also first said 650+ lift then later mentioned 688.
So I'm thinking a 540 with a hydraulic roller cam can run 6200 rpm, your original question. But if you're thinking adding Nos and 6.5k rpm on a hydraulic valve train crane (for example) rated at 6.6k? I'd question same as you. Like I posted, I don't think hydraulics good to advertised rpms.
But can hydraulic rollers do 650+ lift on a 540 turning 6200 rpm? Yes.
jer

[LVjetboy]

Bp posted, "now, our engines are very similar, with one of the few disimilaritys being that you have hydraulics and i have solids"
That and compression ratio? I'm just guessing but compression ratio and the extra lift your solids allow account for most of the power difference. And the difference in compression ratio may contribute as much as your extra lift? Crank trigger and case evac a wash.
You posted to my questions...
"1. dunno. old, or new? blueprinted or stock? since the engine isn't done yet, and he has no dyno numbers yet, it's difficult to say what rpm the engine will turn."
True, but I'd guess he'll need at least 850 hp on the lake to turn that Aggressor B to 6500 rpm. In many cases that means well over 900 dyno hp. Is that likely with...
"540 dart with Billet mains
dart heads inconol valves
JE pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Scat 4340 crank
Victor jr intake/850 carb
HEI ignition
Mech roller cam lift?? still in the talks
electric fuel pump"
900's more dyno power than you got right? Can be done. But I was just mentioning how cut size and power affect rpm and engine design choices.
"2. i say with the engine he's building, for optimum performance, solid rollers would be desirable in the 680-700 lift range."
That lift bigger than me and since he now says 6,500 rpm with .688, well...that's a bit different than 6,000 and .650 I think.
jer

[Cs19]

CS19, lakes boats have hyd. roller cams, race boats have mech. roller cams, and "wanna be" race boats run there mech. roller cam motors at the river!!! :D
HBjet :)
See now im all confused, after all the BS I thought I had a wanna be lake boat. :cool:
Yeah adjusting valves is a pain, but I personally wouldn't have it any other way.

[HBjet]

See now im all confused, after all the BS I thought I had a wanna be lake boat. :cool:
Yeah adjusting valves is a pain, but I personally wouldn't have it any other way.
I agree, the next motor is going to be mech. roller and high comp. :idea:
HBjet

[Cs19]

and on the bottle.
I agree.

[wet77]

We are shooting for next week to get teh motor together just waiting on parts right now :frown:
To all on the Horse Power its just a guess untill it goes on the dyno :notam:
The Rpm 6200+ was a estimate from HTP when I said 700 horse power for sure on the motor :cool:
Hope to have it done soon :D