This Ever Happen To You???

[n8dawg]

So I'm cruzin down the river. I have a four adults, one dog, a 12x12 easy up ( thats pretty heavy,) a full cooler of beer and food, and all of our gear. We're cookin right along at 4000rpms witch is runnin pretty fast for my boat that tops out at 5100rpms. My usual cruzin speed is about 3000rpm. After about 10 minutes of this I look back at the engine and oil is pouring out of the breather cap like a faucet! I slowed down turned it off. I thought I blew the damn thing. We waited awhile fired it back up, idled for a bit everything checked out and we continued on our way, keeping the rpms @ 2500-3000. Didn't happen again.
Is that from my oil becoming to hot?

[cole13]

So I'm cruzin down the river. I have a four adults, one dog, a 12x12 easy up ( thats pretty heavy,) a full cooler of beer and food, and all of our gear. We're cookin right along at 4000rpms witch is runnin pretty fast for my boat that tops out at 5100rpms. My usual cruzin speed is about 3000rpm. After about 10 minutes of this I look back at the engine and oil is pouring out of the breather cap like a faucet! I slowed down turned it off. I thought I blew the damn thing. We waited awhile fired it back up, idled for a bit everything checked out and we continued on our way, keeping the rpms @ 2500-3000. Didn't happen again.
Is that from my oil becoming to hot?
Uh oH, someones itching to get a new motor!

[460 jus getn it]

blow bye. are you running a pcv valve?

[n8dawg]

No pvc valve. I have breathers on both valve covers. What causes blow bye?

[460 jus getn it]

No pvc valve. I have breathers on both valve covers. What causes blow bye?
bad rings..............

[n8dawg]

AAAAWWWW s*******t ! Should I check the compression?

[cole13]

n8 check your PM's

[flat broke]

could be rings, could be valve stem seals, could just be a shitty breather design. Do a compression check to ease your mind. Then have a look at the breathers, are they baffled? does oil have a straight shot off the rocker arm and up the breather and out? A lot of the time, its just that your motor builds some crank case pressure when your on it for a while. Combine that with oil splashing everywhere from the valvetrain and some of it is bound to come out the breather. Many factors to consider, but the bottom line is that it is not always indicative of a toasted set of rings.
If you want a way to clean it up.... swap over to a puke tank with breather setup. The oil has to travel farther to get to the accumulation tank to begin with which will stop a lot of it, and what does get there can cleanly be drained out without getting all over your engine and bilge.
Chris

[CandyA$$]

What kind of motor do you have?
I know we used to have an olds and it puked all the time when you run it at high rpms, which is common in some motors. So we built a puke tank with a breathers. It matched the gas tank. I do not have pictures, sorry.

[Aluminum Squirt]

This is a silly thought, but did you just change the oil and maybe lost count while filling it up. A little too much oil may let the crank froth it up pretty good-Aluminum Squirt

[Nucking futs]

This is a silly thought, but did you just change the oil and maybe lost count while filling it up. A little too much oil may let the crank froth it up pretty good-Aluminum Squirt
Good point.
Also if you did do an oil change and you have a 10quart pan does'nt mean that you "should" put 10 quarts in it. Sometimes the oil will go above your windage tray (if you have one) becuase of the angle of the engine.Need to check that on all enginges really,because if the cranks splashing , your leaving some rpm and power on the table. Just my .02 on this.

[n8dawg]

thanks for the advise guys. I'll start with checking compression, if it's ok then I'll go from there. Maybe a puke tank.
The motor by the way is a 455 Olds. I did a recent oil change, 10qt oil pan. The oil was not milky it was pure oil.
Just wandering, I did a compression test about a month ago and my readings on the gauge were 170 average with a low of 168.5 to a high of 171.5. Is that good or bad?

[396_WAYS_TO_SPIT]

thanks for the advise guys. I'll start with checking compression, if it's ok then I'll go from there. Maybe a puke tank.
The motor by the way is a 455 Olds. I did a recent oil change, 10qt oil pan. The oil was not milky it was pure oil.
Just wandering, I did a compression test about a month ago and my readings on the gauge were 170 average with a low of 168.5 to a high of 171.5. Is that good or bad?
Thats fine. Rule of thumb is 10% of each cylinder. I would look at a better beather or puke tank. I am going to run a puke tank on my motor just in case.
396

[Jeanyus]

From what I gather Olds 455s have a problem returning oil back down to the oil pan. If they are run at higher RPMs for a long period of time all the oil gets pumped into the valve covers and comes gushing out. To fix the problem, some people have added a line that goes from the valve cover down to the pan. Look at the big line at the back of the valve cover, it has one on both valve covers, and they go to the oil pan. That is my guess.
http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/7221pumpkin4.jpg

[flat broke]

As Jeanyus stated with 455s, the oil accumulates in the head faster than it can drain back down to the bottom end. Asside from increasing the amount of oil splashing around under your breathers possibly making a mess, it also means that less oil is available to your main bearings on those longer runs. I'm not a 455 guru, but you probably want to familiarize yourself with this characteristic by doing some searches etc. I know folks who have had 455s run strong and last, others that seem to toss rods every weekend. Bottom line, do a little reading on it and take whatever corrective actions you can to alleviate the oiling problem.
Chris

[Brooski]

Easy fix, dont run it at 4000 for any length of time..
Just kidding Nate. I had an Olds that did the same thing. Chris hit it on the head, run a puke tank. Good luck.

[NELSON#109]

ok, here it is. they do have a problem geting oil back to the pan, and do puck oil out the breathers if you even run them a little hard. run a puck tank. the only way to fix this problem is to machine the drain wholes in the heads, so they are much larger and oil can drain down faster. it's a must do trick, when re-building the 455. you should also run a big oil pan, so you dont run the bottom end dry. other than that, just dont run it hard for long periods. nelson#109

[HotDogz]

I tried running my Olds w/50wt oil which was too thick to drain as fast as I needed. (blow oil faster) 20-50 was better but a good 10-40 oil w/oil cooler will help that problem alot more. You will need a puke tank also (Olds necessity) and a pcv valve on the other cover running to intake or carb. I can run @ 4000rpms all day, 4600-5000 are a different story. I would recommend a leakdown test as well for your motor. My old motor had good compression (155-165#) but 2 cylinders were only holding 20% & 15% pressure. Would build pressure just not hold it. REBUILD. Need to run a big oil pan as well (10qt or more). Good luck.

[Brooski]

Can you say time for BB Chevy??? :idea: :idea:

[Dan Lorenze]

I'm having the same exact problem on my 460. I recently replaced my Holley carb for an Edlebrock carb. The Edlebrock Marine carb has no spiggot for a breather hose that the Holley had, my mistake is that I just left the PCV valve in the valve cover and thought it would be okay. I recently took the boat to Laughlin, The boat lasted almost the whole weekend then I noticed the bottom of the engine compartment was filled with oil. Oil had been coming out my one breather like crazy. I just went out and bought another breather cap for that side, now I'm runnin two, I hope this helps...
Dan

[n8dawg]

Wow!! Hey all you guys out there. You guys give awsome advise and have never steered me wrong ( except for Brooski :D j/k!! ) I just wanted to say thanks!

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Only reason to switch to Chevrolet is to get more power, more RPM, no oiling system troubles, fewer exotic parts, less mandatory machinework, better overall reliability. :boxed:
I think we can see Brooski's priorities. :rollside:
Seriously, there is head machine work, and usually additional drain lines from the heads (never saw them on valve covers before) to the lower block and often restrictors in the oil passageways, all to help stop the problem of the Olds pumping it's entire oil pan contents into the heads at moderately high sustained RPM. Without all the other work, you'll only succeed in filling your puke tank to overflowing, then continue to make a mess, or drain her dry. :cry:

[Brooski]

Only reason to switch to Chevrolet is to get more power, more RPM, no oiling system troubles, fewer exotic parts, less mandatory machinework, better overall reliability. :boxed:
I think we can see Brooski's priorities. :rollside:
See, my priorities are straight! ;) Nate, call me or PM me sometime, I will share another option you have, and it wont cost too much. :idea: