Running an Alternator off Driveline???

[DeputyDawg]

Are any of you guys running your alternators off of your drivelines at behind the motor? I am wanting to fab up a belt system off the driveline somehow and maybe mount the alternator with a custom made bracket attached to the pump brace or something like that. Do any of y'all have any pictures of this type system or ideas on how to do it? Surely someone has done this already on their jet boat.

[boater012]

ill post some pics for you tommorow i have a customer that has setup like that but it is kinda hokey but it does work

[Bense468]

They mount reall bitchen with some heim joints :wink:
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/1DSCN3238-med.JPG

[DeputyDawg]

Got anymore pics of that set up Bense?? Looks good!

[Bense468]

Thats bubba's old boat. One of the guys from the forums here owns it now, but I forgot his name. I will try to find more pics. hang tight.

[Bense468]

Yeah its bigriverdog...sorry deputy I can't find any more pics of that setup. I would PM bigriverdog.

[Oldsquirt]

That CP now belongs to "BigRiverDog" on the forums.
DD, what's the reason for wanting to move the alternator?

[DeputyDawg]

I'm not sure that I am going to mount it in the back. I just wanted to see if anybody had a slick way of doing it in case I decided to. I would kind of like to keep the front of the motor looking as clean as possible wit the blower set up, and, I thought it might be a good idea to just put the alternator on the back side. Are there any good reasons why it shouldn't be put back there?

[Wicked Performance Boats]

How about water over the transom? water in the bilge kicked up by the flywheel! Looks pretty but I don't know about being a good idea in a jetboat. Budlight

[Wicked Performance Boats]

How about a topmount starter bellhousing, and design a bearing plate that mounts there with a gear from a starter bendix to drive it! you could use an old topmount starter to build it from and make an adapter plate to mount the alt. It will charge the same turning backwards!!! Just a thought. Budlight

[MarKist]

here is a link to one !just scroll down its below the seats..
http://www.geocities.com/wsuwrhr/briansboatshop3.html
Markist

[Jetmugg]

Check out MPD's website, there are some pics of a nice rear-mount alternator there as well.
SteveM.

[fleetimus]

http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data/500/4155Alt_004-med.jpg

[HBjet]

Got anymore pics of that set up Bense?? Looks good!
I have a few more pics of that I can put up later when I get home from work... That is unless Bense still has them...
HBjet

[DeputyDawg]

Thanks guys, pictures are much appreciated. I have a pretty nice splash gaurd, so I don't think water over the back woul be a problem. If I mount it in the back it won't be real low either so I don't think bilge water would be a problem either.

[oldbuck40]

I'm not sure that I am going to mount it in the back. I just wanted to see if anybody had a slick way of doing it in case I decided to. I would kind of like to keep the front of the motor looking as clean as possible wit the blower set up, and, I thought it might be a good idea to just put the alternator on the back side. Are there any good reasons why it shouldn't be put back there?the best reason i can think of is it will be a pain in the arse when you need to replace the belt :hammerhea

[Bense468]

I have a few more pics of that I can put up later when I get home from work... That is unless Bense still has them...
HBjet
Go ahead Randy... I am in San Diego, so I am not on my home PC. On my laptop and don't have pics.

[HBjet]

the best reason i can think of is it will be a pain in the arse when you need to replace the belt :hammerhea
Because those belts go bad pretty fast huh? :hammerhea

[superdave013]

here is a link to one !just scroll down its below the seats..
http://www.geocities.com/wsuwrhr/briansboatshop3.html
Markist
The wsuwrhr dude's kinda gay but he does nice work! :D
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/9altbrkt.jpg

[bigriverdog]

Nice boat.
They mount reall bitchen with some heim joints :wink:
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/1DSCN3238-med.JPG

[HBjet]

Nice boat.
It's alright... :sleeping:
HBjet :D

[Big H]

http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/1DSCN3238-med.JPG[/QUOTE]
Not only is the alternator mount pretty slick, that rear motor mount is cool as hell too. Anyone tell me where that two piece mount is from?

[HBjet]

http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/521/1DSCN3238-med.JPG
Not only is the alternator mount pretty slick, that rear motor mount is cool as hell too. Anyone tell me where that two piece mount is from?[/QUOTE]
I think your talking about the flex plate (flywheel) cover. I know Jack at MPD makes those and they are pretty nice!
HBjet

[Bense468]

Nice boat.
Yes it is. Done anything to it since you bought it? Would love to see new current pictures. Is the cap still holding up? That boat looks beautiful capped.

[Big H]

Thanks HBjet for the info on that piece. I know it's a flywheel/flexplate cover but it appears that the rear motor mount and flexplate cover were designed so the rear cover could be removed with the motor in place. My setup has the motor mount/flexplate cover cast as one unit and to ever need to change the flexplate or torque the bolts or whatever, I have to hook up a cherry picker and remove the mount as a whole unit while suspending the rear portion of the motor with a lift. Not only that but that setup looks super trick and unlike any others I have seen.
Still waiting for more info on how that alternator is mounted though and what machining is necessary to make a V-pulley engage on the input splines of the jet.

[HBjet]

More photos...
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/20alt004.jpg
Here is another gullwing with a rear mounted alt...
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/20alt003.jpg
HBjet

[wsuwrhr]

Still waiting for more info on how that alternator is mounted though and what machining is necessary to make a V-pulley engage on the input splines of the jet.
H,
The pulley normally fits on the yoke itself.
Some yokes are machined, others are not.
If you want a pulley on the driveline, you have three choices:
1. Get lucky and already have a machined diameter on the yoke.
2. Machine the yoke you already have.
OR....
3. Be pissed that you don't have a machined yoke, and you don't want to machine the one you have, so you have to buy a new yoke that is already machined.
:messedup: :messedup: :messedup:

[bigriverdog]

Yes it is. Done anything to it since you bought it? Would love to see new current pictures. Is the cap still holding up? That boat looks beautiful capped.
Thanks Bense,
I have a new polished Hogan Intake just waiting to install. No problems with the cap. It hasn't made it out of the garage this year yet. I been very busy with my son's boats. Thanks for the compliment.

[bigriverdog]

It's alright... :sleeping:
HBjet :D
Thanks Randy!
When are you and Chris and Mike etc going to make a Big River off-weekend trip? It could be fun.

[steelcomp]

Here's how I did it in my Bahnerhttp://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1729pump_before3.jpg
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/1729before4.jpg

[Big H]

wsuwrhr – My motor is out of the boat and in the building process, my two piece driveline is sitting on my work bench, and my jet is sitting in the corner of my garage so right now it's just a big puzzle. I can't seem to get it pictured in my head how it goes together. I currently have a single V-belt alternator pulley that obviously mounts to the balancer. I guess, my confusion is in the pulley itself as there is no way my pulley will slide over the input shaft of the jet input splines. Is there a pulley designed for this application or does the center hole need to be machined for clearance?

[boater012]

they do make a pulley specificaly for that purpose but im having brain fade as to who!
as far worrying about replacing the belt my way of doing it is to install two belts and zip tie the other one up and out of the way. if the first one sarts to go bad just cut it off and slide the new in place. I have done this several times, and my customers will call a year or two later and tell me what a lifesaver it was to have it there. because they thought their weekend was over until they remembered the spare belt, or noticed it. it is not the most aesthetically (spelling?) pleasing way to do it but its sure nice when you have a problem, just my humble two pennies worth.

[HBjet]

Thanks Randy!
When are you and Chris and Mike etc going to make a Big River off-weekend trip? It could be fun.
We will all be there this weekend... I'm going to be at BR from Friday til Tuesday, CS should be up there for the same amount of time, but I believe he's staying with some friends at Water Wheel. Cyclone will be in Blythe for Saturday and back in BR for Sun and Monday.
I was thinking about going in 2 more weeks... The 15th, 16th, and 17th. Not sure yet.
HBjet

[bigriverdog]

We will all be there this weekend... I'm going to be at BR from Friday til Tuesday, CS should be up there for the same amount of time, but I believe he's staying with some friends at Water Wheel. Cyclone will be in Blythe for Saturday and back in BR for Sun and Monday.
I was thinking about going in 2 more weeks... The 15th, 16th, and 17th. Not sure yet.
HBjet
Thanks, I'll be there this weekend but I'll be up on the strip. Let me know if you guys go out on the 15th -17th. Maybe we could meet up?

[wsuwrhr]

wsuwrhr – My motor is out of the boat and in the building process, my two piece driveline is sitting on my work bench, and my jet is sitting in the corner of my garage so right now it's just a big puzzle. I can't seem to get it pictured in my head how it goes together. I currently have a single V-belt alternator pulley that obviously mounts to the balancer. I guess, my confusion is in the pulley itself as there is no way my pulley will slide over the input shaft of the jet input splines. Is there a pulley designed for this application or does the center hole need to be machined for clearance?
Basically it is a purpose designed part, the hole in the pulley that mounts to your balancer is made for a 9/16 bolt. The pulley you need for the yoke will be 2" ID, and thicker than sheet metal so it is rigid.
The system looks just like the pictures in this thread.
Steelcomps is similar to the setup I did.
Brian

[Big H]

I got it. It looks like a cool way to get the job done. Just pisses me off that I bought a $150 billet and anodized front mount that is still new in the package and now I don't want it. Darn it! :mad:

[wsuwrhr]

I got it. It looks like a cool way to get the job done. Just pisses me off that I bought a $150 billet and anodized front mount that is still new in the package and now I don't want it. Darn it! :mad:
Plenty of people on this website that would buy it.
Brian

[steelcomp]

I went with the gilmer belt and finding the two pulleys was a bit of a chore. They both needed to be modified ro get them to fit and line up...definately a one off deal. I don't like all the overdrive pulley ratios I see, either...I chose to go 1:1 since the boat spends most of it's time aobve 4000 rpm. It takes a significant amount of power to run the alt. when it's charging. Of course, I also have a cut-out switch on the dash. :D

[flat broke]

More photos...
Here is another gullwing with a rear mounted alt...
http://www2.***boat.com/image_center/data/520/20alt003.jpg
HBjet
Randy, are you running an electric oil pressure gauge in your rig? Is the pic above of the Anderson's 19' CP?
The next go round I was thinking of going to electric on the oil gauge to cut down on the number of -4 lines running to the dash for other stuff, but Dave was leaning more towards manual. No big, just curious.
Hopefully we'll see you at at BR this weekend. Ty and Shannon are going for sure, but I'm on the fence.
Chris

[LVjetboy]

Here's a one to one works great...
http://members.cox.net/lvjetboy/AltMount.jpg
Not rear mount. But what's so fascinating with rear mount? Other than a tight fit. Bud mentioned water in the bildge which I think is a valid point but Deputy said mounted high so no problem. Consider if the pully's low on the driveshaft like the yellow and carmel jet HBjet posted that pully could sling bildge water on acceleration. Could be a problem with electrics and alternator, splash guard or no.
jer

[DeputyDawg]

I like your alternator installation LVjetboy, but the reason I am wanting to put it in the back is because I just don't want any belts on the front of the motor that could catch someones hair and scalp them. I like the way yours is done up front, but if I did mine that way I would have to move the back seat forward and being as this is a haul everybody and everything around lake boat (21ft kevlar Daytona) I really don't want to do that. On the 19ft gullwing two seater hotrod I am putting together I may very well mount the alternator like yours is done, it just isn't as easy to do in a lake boat with a back seat as it is a purpose built two seater hotrod, although my two seater hotrod will still have a cooler and stereo in it, it won't have the backseat and extra passengers to deal with. By the way Jer, your boat is beautiful. I love your paint/gel scheme, it is one of my favorites of all the boats on the ***boat boards.
Also, I am planning on making a plexiglass splash shield of some kind to further protect the alternator from the bottom side.

[LVjetboy]

A front drive shaft mounted alternator is a problem w/rear bench seats as you mentioned. You either have to modify the seat with a hump in the middle or ditch it. A hump might not be so bad if you only carry two in the back, could double as a drink holder, but....less seat space if you carry more. I ditched it. My back seat (19' jet) was basically non-functional anyway and I need room for tunes and cooler. :)
One of the cool things about front mount direct drive is no more belt! That and less drag on the engine. Looks like steelcomp has about one-to-one on his bahner rear mount, the aqua colored rear mount in Hbjets pictures looks like a standard overdrive and the yellow boats alternator looks way overdriven, maybe 1:3? That's gotta be huge alternator rpm's full throttle. When I first switched I was concerned about idle charge, but my idle a bit high (compared to a car) and it charges ok at idle.
When you mount your splash-guard you'll most likely have a vinyl seal? I've found my seal doesn't keep all the water out when a wave splashes up. Most but some drips down. In fact with my low freeboard, neither does the splash guard. I get a bit over the top at times. May not be a problem with your 21' jet, just some thoughts.
Flat broke posted: "The next go round I was thinking of going to electric on the oil gauge to cut down on the number of -4 lines running to the dash for other stuff, but Dave was leaning more towards manual. No big, just curious."
Chris, I'm sold on electrics. So much easier to install and maintain. The, "mechanicals are better" mentality is well, maybe not true for most measurements we care about. I say after using both mechanical and electrics through the years. I ran both a mechanical oil temperature gage and electric on my old 454 and found no significant difference in readings between the two. I also checked both with a meat thermometer before I installed and found both matched closely to the thermometer in heated water. I now run both a gaffrig electric oil temp and pressure on the 540. I also run an electric gaffrig water pressure gage. I tested this gage with tap water and a mechanical holley pressure gage before I installed. It matched. If you have doubts, check it out. Test a mechanical and electric side-by-side. If you find the difference something worth worrying about let us know.
I'm not saying a tranducer won't fail or every gage electric or mechanical is 100% accurate. Just saying my experience is electrics are just as good as mechanicals for what we do...reading the gage while you're idling through the harbor or glancing at it balls to the wall.
And electrics are way better considering easy installation, features like red light trigger and safety or maintenance issues like no fluids forward of the engine.
jer

[wsuwrhr]

Chris, I'm sold on electrics. So much easier to install and maintain. The, "mechanicals are better" mentality is well, maybe not true for most measurements we care about. I say after using both mechanical and electrics through the years. I ran both a mechanical oil temperature gage and electric on my old 454 and found no significant difference in readings between the two. I also checked both with a meat thermometer before I installed and found both matched closely to the thermometer in heated water. I now run both a gaffrig electric oil temp and pressure on the 540. I also run an electric gaffrig water pressure gage. I tested this gage with tap water and a mechanical holley pressure gage before I installed. It matched. If you have doubts, check it out. Test a mechanical and electric side-by-side. If you find the difference something worth worrying about let us know.
I'm not saying a tranducer won't fail or every gage electric or mechanical is 100% accurate. Just saying my experience is electrics are just as good as mechanicals for what we do...reading the gage while you're idling through the harbor or glancing at it balls to the wall.
And electrics are way better considering easy installation, features like red light trigger and safety or maintenance issues like no fluids forward of the engine.
jer
Pump mounted alternators are cool.
I agree on the electical or mechanical gauge deal. Electricals do not react as fast as a mechanical IMHO, so I run a mechanical oil pressure, but everything else in the boat is electrical.
More room in front of the engine, and no belts to worry about with passengers. Come on LV, agree with something for once :) :) :)
BTW, I am in your town for the week. Headed out to Mead to hang out on the "Ponderosa."
Where are you going to be?
Brian

[LVjetboy]

Brian, we'll be at Powell for the 4th, but back in town later this week. Pm me if you want to get together.
jer

[flat broke]

Jer,
Thanks for your input on the gauges. I've run both, and never really noticed a difference. Even in terms of reaction time they seemed pretty close (though I didn't bench test them as I could have). The main reason I asked Randy is because if the teal hardware boat is the boat I think it is, it shares common orrigins to yours, Randy, mine etc. I was actually more concerned with "where" to mount the gauge then which gauge when my motor was done. With a mechanical, I've plumbed it into the oil port corresponding to the 2nd main journal as well as the plug above the filter pad with similar results. The old school advice that was given was that you'd see a problem sooner if tapped in up front than over the filter. I think when everthing gets rigged back into a hull, I'll go with an electric for cleanliness of installation etc.
So with that in mind, any harm/gross inaccuracy in using an electric oil pressure gauge as a water pressure gauge for the intake?
Thanks,
Chris