Uh-ohhhh!

[NautiII]

ok, call me an idiot, and since this is my first jet, maybe a little.....break. I finally got my motor running, and when I was trying to adjust the water valves, on the trailer!, I notices a small leak in one of my oil return lines. well, the oil was slightly milky. not bad, bad enough to know I goofed. so, is it bacause I flooded the headers with to much water? how do I adjust the valves on the trailer? or dont I. advice please, and be gentle!!! haha oh, I hooked a hose up to the water supply coming in, and one up to the jet. if this helps!

[502 JET]

If you turned the hose on before starting the engine that could of been when the water got in there.

[Ken F]

It's really kind of hard to say without some more info....
Do you have a pressure regulator, or are you trying to do it with a gate valve?
Reguardless, I would say running your boat on the trailer even WITH a hose in the pump is not a good idea. They are made to keep forward thrust on the shaft when submerged in water, let alone your wear-ring.
You will probably get several contradictory opinions saying "aww, it's not going to hurt". So it's your call, but I'll bet 90% of owners,and 100% of builders will tell you not to. nuff said on that.
As far as your water in the oil, I suppose it would be possible to flood your cyls. with water, but not too likely. Seems like you would hydrolock it. you didn't' leave the water running while the engine was turned off for a short time did you?
Intake's are often the culprits on water in the oil.
I would really suggest at least finding a pond or something you can back your boat into to do your adjustments.
Hope this helps, though it doesn't really solve your problem.
Ken F

[Oldsquirt]

........ how do I adjust the valves on the trailer? or dont I.
You don't. You need to do all your adjustments in the water with the pump supplying the engine.

[FLEA DIDDY]

I doubt water pressure had anything to do with milking the oil, You don't have enough pressure from the spicket on your house. More than likely you had a week gasket/seal and it finally gave out. As far as running it on the boat it's not good on the pump but I am guilty of it.
If you need some help shoot me a pm, I live in Gilbert and could prolly come over and help you out.

[Squirtcha?]

I'm not sure I agree. Most of your house spigots will have 50-60 lbs of pressure. Consider that although your pump is capable of putting out that much pressure, typically there will be a valve between the pump and motor to cut that flow down considerably.
Under the right conditions, or if you open that house spigot all the way???
I'm thinking that there's more than enough pressure there to milk the oil.
Usually a 1/4 turn on the faucet is more than enough water to keep things cool (if you want to run it in the driveway).

[FLEA DIDDY]

I'm not sure I agree. Most of your house spigots will have 50-60 lbs of pressure. Consider that although your pump is capable of putting out that much pressure, typically there will be a valve between the pump and motor to cut that flow down considerably.
Under the right conditions, or if you open that house spigot all the way???
I'm thinking that there's more than enough pressure there to milk the oil.
Usually a 1/4 turn on the faucet is more than enough water to keep things cool (if you want to run it in the driveway).So your saying with an open ended hose on the ground turned wide open you have 60psi coming out? I know at my house it isn't like that at all, I hook it up turn it on and have no problems? Pretty crazy, I have never ran a gate valve between the motor and pump either, never blew a gasket or milked the oil. Maybe I was just lucky............

[Squirtcha?]

50-60 psi is a guesstimate. Obviously I've never actually put a pressure gauge on it (although now I'm tempted to).
Even if it were only 40 it'd probably still be enough. I believe most guys that run a pressure relief setup on their boats are venting off everything after 25 psi or so. If this is true it would seem to indicate that 25 psi is sufficient and anything else would be overkill?
I'm amazed that you have no valve and no problems with water in the oil.
When I first bought my boat it didn't have one and I had problems until I cut one in.
What size lines are you running for water supply and dump?

[FLEA DIDDY]

50-60 psi is a guesstimate. Obviously I've never actually put a pressure gauge on it (although now I'm tempted to).
Even if it were only 40 it'd probably still be enough. I believe most guys that run a pressure relief setup on their boats are venting off everything after 25 psi or so. If this is true it would seem to indicate that 25 psi is sufficient and anything else would be overkill?
I'm amazed that you have no valve and no problems with water in the oil.
When I first bought my boat it didn't have one and I had problems until I cut one in.
What size lines are you running for water supply and dump?Hold on, lol I had a valve on it now that I think about it but ran it wide open, Twas like that when I bought it. I got nervous and closed it and could never get the temp to be steady so I just went back to running it wide open. Maybe there was just enough restriction into that piss ant valve that it dropped the pressure enough to save the oil/gaskets...........

[hellman2u]

Household water pressure is more than enough to push water up through the head studs or bolts if not sealed up good. I'm assuming its a BBC ? If you don't find any evidence there, I would definately look at the intake. Good luck "HOWLER#439"

[Sanger Jet]

Unless you have a ratchet to unhook your pump.....DON'T run your pump dry!!!!!!!!!! EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

[NautiII]

the water was never ran without the motor running. can water get into the motor through the headers with it running, if to much water is sent into the system? or should I pull off the intake and check for a leak? aaargh!!!!!! :mad:

[NautiII]

Unless you have a ratchet to unhook your pump.....DON'T run your pump dry!!!!!!!!!! EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rolleyes:
I didnt. we had water going to the jet at all times. used two hoses. one to the motor, one to the jet.

[Devilman]

the water was never ran without the motor running. can water get into the motor through the headers with it running, if to much water is sent into the system? or should I pull off the intake and check for a leak? aaargh!!!!!! :mad:
Yes.... Actually shouldn't be any water to the headers at all at idle to around 1800 RPM according to the Bassett site if I'm not mistaken....

[Mighty Thor]

Drain the oil, put in fresh oil and filter. Take it to a lake or pond, start it up, do your adjustments or whatever. If you get water in the oil you have a problem, if you don't you are fine. On my first run I got water in the oil and discovered that the BBF had pushrod problems and that pulled water in through the exhaust. Got advise and information here, fixed the problem, no more water in the oil. There have been more people trying to figure out why the garden hose causes (insert problem here) than you can count. Bottom line, the boat is not intended to run on a garden hose and trying to figure out why it don't work right is sort of obvious, It isn't supposed to!

[Sanger Jet]

Yeah..........I have visions of garden hoses all over americas lakes and rivers :220v:

[460 jus getn it]

scott, i think we have all been there. when i broke my engine in, i opened up both valves all the way, to make sure there was pressure. yes the green line is more then enough to push water into the oil threw the exaust. best off to open all the gate valves and do your adjustments at the lake when its time.