Oh crap, what is this?????

[daddy b]

Berkeley JC Centurian boat, 468 bbc boat has always had perfect amount of water out pipes, little to none at idle, yet moderate at wot. Boat has run perfect for 3 years, however last lake trip coming in from narrows, 10 minutes of wot(not full) and the thing is running more water out both exhaust pipes than ever before, heavy mist at idle and gradually drowning motor to stall. Water in the oil now, slightly milky and not excessive. Has anyone ever had a valve problem from pump or did I just blow two head gaskets?????(I can't believe that) Ran fine on the trailer, however with water hose to block slightly on it still has too much water coming out pipes gradually drowning it to stall. Any help appreciated!!!!!
daddy b :jawdrop: :eek: :confused:

[Taylorman]

Pull your t valve apart, you might have gotten trash in it and it may be stuck open.

[DeputyDawg]

If you are running headers eith the little bassett T-valve the spring is probably broken in the valve.

[SummitKarl]

H2O in the oil, NOT GOOD!!!!!!!!!
it's only going to get there one of 2 ways
bad gasket or cracked block, if it was to much h2o injection into the exhaust the worst it would do is hydro-lock.

[Taylorman]

H2O in the oil, NOT GOOD!!!!!!!!!
it's only going to get there one of 2 ways
bad gasket or cracked block, if it was to much h2o injection into the exhaust the worst it would do is hydro-lock.
Or reversion. Ive gotten water in oil from trash in the t valve before. Your gonna have to change your oil a couple of times to get all the water out.

[Some Kind Of Monster]

The spring in the T valve likes to rust and break. You can pick up a new one at the hardware store and use washers if it doesn't have a flat base. My guess is reversion.

[gregr1971]

i run the bassett t-valve and headers on mine and YES it will get water in the oil if it has trash or a bad spring,not just from craked block or bad head gasket,have first hand experience on the subject,and holley is a great carb!

[Captain no fun]

I'm on board with the stuck or broken spring in the valve. I had a similar problem, so I installed a small water pump that I turn on water manually once in a while at a fast idle to cool down the pipes, and @ 1500 or so RPM the tee valve opens for good floe to the headers. I have a nasty cam, and the oil in the water problem comes from reversion. Be careful that you haven't crystalized the exhaust valves from reversion. I ru about 10# water pressure @ WOT, and it's important to get your oil above 200 degrees to burn out all moisture. I doubt you've hurt much as of yet, but keep an eye on it. Good luck.

[sanger rat]

I'm going to go with the broken or weak spring too. Wouldn't hurt to put a ball valve inline too. That way you can shut off the water if you needed to.

[daddy b]

Thanks for the support ya'll. It appears to have been the ball valve between the block (out) and the puke hole. It rotted away restricting exit flow, forcing more water into the pipes through the water injection. This setup has a ball valve between the pump and the motor(water intake) and the motor and the puke hole(exit). You close down the exit and entrance forcing more pressure within the system. Too much closure forces more water, and literally drowned the the thing. You could hear the water in the head, missing gurgling, help does anyone know cpr for baby. So runs good now, back to normal, and now draining oil through drain hose and switching plugs.
Thanks daddy b :) :) :D PS castrol synthetic is cheaper than the blend right now at kragen.

[Danhercules]

The spring in the T valve likes to rust and break. You can pick up a new one at the hardware store and use washers if it doesn't have a flat base. My guess is reversion.
The springs are tapered. I would not buy one at a hardware store. I would get em from Rex or Basset. I got two backups in the truck.