Spray hitting wire terminal and distributor

['78Konajet]

I recently completed the restoration of my 18 ft kona, i'm running a stock 454 and a stock berkeley JF pump. When cruising at about 3000 rpm lots of water is spraying up over the transom from somewhere around the jet, soaking the wiring terminal and distributor. I think the water may be hitting the "yoke" on the JF pump spraying into the boat. Has anyone else dealt with this problem? I would appreciate any advice.

[crf311]

I have the same problem. i think on mine it's the forward/reverse gate not going up all the way.

[Jetmugg]

While you are running at speed, have somebody look over the back of the boat to see what is causing the spray.
SteveM.

[9er]

Mine did that as well. It was the water hitting the tiller arms for the rev bucket and place diverter.
We put on a ride plate, problem solved. ;)
Boat rides better too.

[FASTRAT]

I recently completed the restoration of my 18 ft kona, i'm running a stock 454 and a stock berkeley JF pump. When cruising at about 3000 rpm lots of water is spraying up over the transom from somewhere around the jet, soaking the wiring terminal and distributor. I think the water may be hitting the "yoke" on the JF pump spraying into the boat. Has anyone else dealt with this problem? I would appreciate any advice.
thats very strange...i have a '76 Kona with a similar set-up as urs (different c.i. mtr & Berk pump)...i do not have any probs with spray/water up & over the back...Jetmugg has a gd suggestion about having someone ck where the spray/water is coming from...let us know
fastrat

[SmokinLowriderSS]

I found the F spray problem on my Taylor SS this spring when I had the swim-step off. The F has an o-ring arround the nozzle that will not stay in so I quit trying. The only time I got spray was with the trim at full up. The water bypassing the nozzle sprays aft and hits a lot of stuff. At full up the water hits the inside of the trim-steer casting (the diamond piece) and sprays backwards toward the boat (sprays foreward). Hope this helps. My solution was to put my swim step on. :D

['78Konajet]

Thats probably it, I did remove the full swim deck and replaced it with 2 teak steps, also put a brand new nozzle o-ring on and it didn't survive even two outings. Maybe a ride plate is the solution? Where's a good source for one of those?

[FASTRAT]

i think both u & Smokein' are masking the prob by not fixing it!...there is a o-ring there for a purpose!...without it...ur hurting the performance of the pump...just put another one in there & make sure it is in properly...ck the clearance on the side where it rides up n down by hand to make sure it isnt binding...its just nylon & if its binding or rubbing excessively...it will break...just my .02 cents
fastrat

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Dad put 2 in, so have I. They never break, they blow out in 1 or 2 lake trips. Have seen so many people on boards with same problem and same solution, they forget about it. Some have done speed checks and found no difference.
I'm prety sure if there was some actual pressure loss, that would reduce pump pressure, which would allow the engine to wrap higher, thus replacing the pump pressure lost to the "leakage". My Taylor is just a good fast lake boat anyhow so I am not interested in splitting hairs about the leak I have. I have recently considered filling the grove in and building it up with a structural epoxy to seal the gap better. Then doing a hand-sand/file job to fit it.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

My Berk F has a factory "cavitation plate". It is shorter than a true ride plate but I couldn't put a longer one on without a host of changes to move my nozzle aft (bowl change, snoot, then go place diverter). I don't see how much drags in the water at 30 MPH unless my nozzle is trimmed hard down (except for an inch or 2 of rudder).

[R.A.D.man]

I have a berkeley nozzle in my garage that was modified to keep the teflon orings in by just slightly reducing the turning movement of the nozzle. Two tabs were welded as stops on each side of the nozzle and ground down to give maximum turning but at full left or right, you could no longer see the o-ring visibly. This kept it in the housing and no spray and no more lost orings. I never noticed any reduction in the turning ability of the boat. Have a look at yours and if at full left or right, you can see the teflon oring, this solution may help.

[SmokinLowriderSS]

Thx R.A.D., I never thought of that. I'll look into it. :idea: