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View Full Version : WATER STILL IN THE OIL!!!!!!!!



Kerny
05-16-2003, 08:26 AM
AFTER CHAGING THE HEAD GASKET, NEW HEADS, MANIFOLD GASKET (NOT VALLEY PAN GASKET), TIMING COVER, TIMING COVER GASKET, AND A SHIT LOAD OF RTV SILICONE I STILL HAVE WATER IN THE OIL. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I COULD BE MISSING OTHER THAN IT BEING A CRACKED BLOCK??? I AM RUNNING THE 460. WHEN I STARTED THIS PROJECT IT STARTED OUT WITH A CRACKED HEAD, I REPLACED THAT NOW HERE I AM.
[ June 19, 2003, 10:46 PM: Message edited by: Rexone ]

hoolign
05-16-2003, 08:31 AM
How much water in the oil,is it milky or actually adding volume to the oil pan?

Kerny
05-16-2003, 08:34 AM
IT LOOKS LIKE A CHOCLATE SHAKE.

hoolign
05-16-2003, 08:37 AM
yeah,but are you gaining alot in volume

Kerny
05-16-2003, 08:39 AM
not to sure i got dicouraged and went to bed before i checked how much volume was in the engine.

hoolign
05-16-2003, 08:50 AM
If your wondering about a cracked block run the water for a while without starting the motor,see if the level in your pan comes up.

Kerny
05-16-2003, 08:52 AM
it seems to me that it only does it under the pressure when the engine is running

Sangster
05-16-2003, 08:55 AM
Kerny:
it seems to me that it only does it under the pressure when the engine is running Do aleak down test.... :confused:

Kerny
05-16-2003, 09:00 AM
can i do a leak down test????? :confused:

hoolign
05-16-2003, 09:31 AM
You can buy a leakage tester at most auto parts stores.

OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET
05-16-2003, 10:35 AM
I would be very suspicious of the block. If one of your heads cracked more than likely the engine was overheated at one time. It may not leak when engine is off and cool. The heat from the engine tends to open up a crack as the metal expands. sounds like you covered almost all the other possiblities. I sure hope it isn't you're block but it sounds like you may have a crack between water jacket and cylinder. When you had the heads off did you take the opportunity to check the cylinder walls for cracks. They are not always visible to naked eye. If you find it is the block and want to limp it through this season. K&W block seal works charms. I know it isn't the right way to fix it but like I said it may allow you to make through the season and tear down in winter. Sorry to hear the bad news and we'll keep our fingers crossed for you.
Omega

HammerDown
05-16-2003, 12:54 PM
How would you use KW-Block seal in a open system...such as a Jet Boat?

Kerny
05-16-2003, 04:36 PM
bilge pump only $8.99

126driver
05-16-2003, 05:27 PM
If you haven't already, change out the oil and fire the engine back up. You won't like what you find on a teardown if you leave that milkshake in there for any amount of time.

Snowboat
05-16-2003, 07:59 PM
You did not mention the head bolts or studs. Plenty of sealant on those? Have you run it without water to the headers?

eliminator777
05-17-2003, 04:24 AM
Permetex Hi tack,Loctite teflon,Plain old Teflon pipe dope to seal head bolts.Problem is if you didn't pressure check any thing You went to a lot of work for nothing.For your own sake don't run it with water in oil.The bearings tend to gall.460 fords tend to crack heads.The Blocks don't. :D :D :D :p :p

Kerny
05-17-2003, 10:22 AM
nope i did not put anything on the head bolts cry

Snowboat
05-17-2003, 11:21 AM
You need a Ford guy to step in. Many Chevys need sealant on the head bolts, because they go into the water galleys. Don't know jack about Fords.

Thunderbutt
05-17-2003, 03:06 PM
Did you change the old oil before or after you put in new gaskets. A lot of time when you pull the heads you night get water in the block. So preasure test with water or air if you increase with water or, here air leaking out you have a problem. Vary little water makes the oil look shitty after you run the motor.

TahitiSteve
05-17-2003, 10:27 PM
The lower head bolts on my Ford 302 go into the water jackets, no idea about any other fords though.

Kerny
05-18-2003, 04:39 PM
1

spectras only
05-18-2003, 05:18 PM
Like Riodog says ,429/460 head bolts don't go through waterjackets,you just oil them at installation.You didn't mention what type exhaust manifolds you're using.If you run the log type,when the gasket between the manifold and riser goes south, water can enter through the exhaust valves at # 4 and # 8 cylinders.To remedy this problem it's a good idea to replace the standard type gaskets with aluminum ones and rtv silicone.

79Hawaiian
06-12-2003, 03:32 PM
spectras only:
Like Riodog says ,429/460 head bolts don't go through waterjackets,you just oil them at installation.You didn't mention what type exhaust manifolds you're using.If you run the log type,when the gasket between the manifold and riser goes south, water can enter through the exhaust valves at # 4 and # 8 cylinders.To remedy this problem it's a good idea to replace the standard type gaskets with aluminum ones and rtv silicone. So I guess my three rusty wet head bolts would explain why I have water in my oil! :confused:

396_Z
06-12-2003, 05:36 PM
Did you check your new heads and/or block to see how true the sufaces are?
Not a likely situation but you could be far enough out of flat that the water (under pressure at speed) is leaking past the gasket into an oil galley or passage.

Rock-it man
06-15-2003, 10:31 AM
I had the same problem was too much water pressure was leaking under the head gaskets try a relief valve ROCK-IT MAN

waterloged
06-15-2003, 06:19 PM
This KW-seal stuff, Can you use it on a alcohol motor?

OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET
06-16-2003, 03:44 AM
I'm sure you could. I have personally only used it on diesels and gas engines but I see know reason why it couldn't limp an alcohol engine by. Just remember it is not a permanent fix. But it might get you through the rest of the season.
Omega

Hollis
06-22-2003, 07:44 AM
Like HammerDown said, How do you use K&W Block seal in an open line jet boat..?

HOSS
06-22-2003, 07:49 AM
Are you using the same Intake? Is it an old aluminum one? Maybe the water has rotted through it? Do you have insurance? Do you have matches?

wfodude
06-22-2003, 08:39 AM
To use K&W get a bilge pump and set up a recirculating system in a bucket of water. It will get warm fast but circulate the sealer just fine.I personally use ceramic seal and it does work wonders.

Moneypitt
06-22-2003, 08:55 AM
Kerny, The info aboutpossible heat damage to the block when the head cracked has merit. another area that often gets overlooked is the fastners. Head bolts/ studs don't last forever. The torque that is applied is actually "strech". When the head cracked, these bolts were streched to the limit, and then over heated along with the rest of the engine. Once they lose Tensile strenght they will no longer apply enough pressure to seal the heat gasket. On BBC motors I usually "circle" the water ports with a small bead of sealer, to prevent leakage. At this point, a VERY close inspection of the head surface, block surface, and the gaskets themselves(including intake) at teardown MAY make the problem obvious. Did you replace both heads? or only one?... Moneypitt

dego red
06-23-2003, 09:22 PM
For what it's worth, I had the same problem with my 351. After chasing the intake and head gaskets, I found a cracked exhaust elbow that was putting water into the back two cylinders. red

1FastHallett
06-26-2003, 07:31 PM
i had the same probem with my big block chevy. did all the things you have done including a new water press valve. turned out to be a warped intake manifold. i put the new manifold on and i havnt had the problem since.