396 into a 427

[Blown 472]

is is possible?? what is involved, I got a line on a 396 and want to build an injected 427 like go fast racers dealio.
I know it is the dark side but you cant get those kick ass staggered injectors for fords or mopars.

[LakesOnly]

Blown 472:
is is possible?? what is involved, I got a line on a 396 and want to build an injected 427 like go fast racers dealio.
Chevy 396 to 427? Just the bore, buddy. Stroke is the same.
The block casting number will tell you if it can even be bored to a 454 bore (this is a rare early 396 block), but like the 429/460 the stroke and piston pin location differ between the 427 and the 454 (427 & 396 have same pin location). Also, the block will have to be notched for the 454 stroke.
LO

[LakesOnly]

p.s. I have one of those '66 396 blocks that can be nbored to a 454, and also a rare, factory forged 396 crank if you need it--maybe$$$.
LO

[Blown 472]

LakesOnly:
Blown 472:
is is possible?? what is involved, I got a line on a 396 and want to build an injected 427 like go fast racers dealio.
Chevy 396 to 427? Just the bore, buddy. Stroke is the same.
The block casting number will tell you if it can even be bored to a 454 bore (this is a rare early 396 block), but like the 429/460 the stroke and piston pin location differ between the 427 and the 454 (427 & 396 have same pin location). Also, the block will have to be notched for the 454 stroke.
LO How much over bore?? I like 427's my boss had one in his super comp car.

[LakesOnly]

Don't have the book in front of me....
I think +.030 makes the 402 and +.060(?) makes the 409...so I would gues about .120"
Anybody?
LO
p.s. I'm sure it's all on the web in a million places.
Sanger Mike has 990 heads etc. Hell, he's got everything to complete my block and crank, if you need anything.

[GofastRacer]

The 396 has a 4.094 bore and the 427 has a 4.251 bore, you would have to go .157 over, that's too much!.. frown

[Blown 472]

GofastRacer:
The 396 has a 4.094 bore and the 427 has a 4.251 bore, you would have to go .157 over, that's too much!.. :( Bummer, you think a 396 on nitro would run good??

[GofastRacer]

As long as you got a good bottom end! eek!
Is that 396 free?.
[ July 30, 2003, 01:59 PM: Message edited by: GofastRacer ]

[TIMINATOR]

Sorry GoFast, but we have done about 10 or 12 396 to 427/454s, all have worked fine. Some we filled half way with block rock, the rest we didnt. We also have a ultrasonic wall thickness tester, that makes us brave! or educated. Some of these motors are street stuff and 3 are in boats,no problems yet. The older blocks tend to be meatier too. I would not buy a block to bore that far, but if its free take it to a race shop and have it looked at. The street rebuilders will typically just repeat what they have heard, and not even know what they are looking for, so they usually aren't too much help. If you post the block # I may be able to look it up and see if its one that we have done, then all you have to worry about is core shift(back to that sonic tester again). TIMMINATOR

[SchellSchock]

What would you be willing to spend for a .030 over 1966 Vette 427 motor????

[LakesOnly]

TIMINATOR:
...The older blocks tend to be meatier too. ...TIMMINATOR True...I have a 1966 396 block that has the same casting number as a 454. And the cylinders are ridiculously thick. Boring to a 454 is no problem for me.
Can Blown472's be brought out to 427? Check the casting numbers...sonic check if necessary.
LO

[UBFJ #454]

I have a set of 15:1, 0.157 over AL pistons ... Interested?

[UBFJ #454]

Also have a set of 6135 Steel Lunati ProMod rods.

[GofastRacer]

TIMINATOR:
Sorry GoFast, but we have done about 10 or 12 396 to 427/454s, all have worked fine. Some we filled half way with block rock, the rest we didnt. We also have a ultrasonic wall thickness tester, that makes us brave! or educated. Some of these motors are street stuff and 3 are in boats,no problems yet. The older blocks tend to be meatier too. I would not buy a block to bore that far, but if its free take it to a race shop and have it looked at. The street rebuilders will typically just repeat what they have heard, and not even know what they are looking for, so they usually aren't too much help. If you post the block # I may be able to look it up and see if its one that we have done, then all you have to worry about is core shift(back to that sonic tester again). TIMMINATOR I didn't say it couldn't be done, I've done it before with success(for streeters) but it was with very early blocks after sonic check for core shift. Some early blocks have up to 0.260 thick walls and depending on core shift, I've seen them as thin as 0.150 in places. Now if you're doing a drag race deal only, sure you can fill the block and it will work fine but if it's a streeter or a lake boat and need the cooling, as you say you can fill it half ways but the top part can still be thin and as Blown 472 says he wants to run Nitro, that's pushing it!...My .02!.. :rolleyes:

[TIMINATOR]

The fire is out in the first 3/4 inch of stroke,the deck is half of that,and the block is simply a water manafold for the cooling of the heads.We have run street motors filled to within 1 3/4 inches of the deck, and we currently are doing a run of street LS-1 motors filled to 2" of the deck in steel and aluminum with stupidly large bores (4.060 to 4.100+ if I told you anymore,I'd hafta kill ya).These motors don't run any hotter than the regular stock stuff and they don't have the whole lake to cool them. For a first attempt at nitro I would rather fill to 1 3/4" of the deck and hurt somthing cheap,while the learning curve is steep. Mule motor first,then somthing nice later. It's just my professional opinion,I could be wrong. TIMMINATOR

[Blown 472]

I am all about testing unkown stuff to me with a mule motor.