Starter recommendation?

[Robbie Racer]

I fried my starter last weekend and need to replace it this week. I'm not sure what brand it is but it is a mini starter with the exposed gear. It looks like the Powermaster PWM-9000 on page 84 in the Summit catalog. My motor is a 621" Merlin (Pro) block Chevy with 8.3 initial compression. What starter do you guys recommend that I get as a replacement? I wouldn't think that I would need a high compression (or racing) type starter would I? It looks like some starters are set up for 153 or 168 tooth flywheels. I'm not sure which flywheel I have but will call my motor builder to see if he remembers.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Keith

[Heatseeker]

Keith,
I've been using one of these for the last couple of seasons:
http://www.goodvibesracing.com/Product-Scans/Imi-105.jpg
The block has two sets of mounting holes, allowing use with either the 153 or the 168 tooth wheel. There are several motor mount holes also, allowing you to mount the motor in a number of different positions. It has no problem turning over my 8:1 engine. Good Vibrations Motorsports sells them.

[Maxey]

I fried my starter last weekend and need to replace it this week. I'm not sure what brand it is but it is a mini starter with the exposed gear. It looks like the Powermaster PWM-9000 on page 84 in the Summit catalog. My motor is a 621" Merlin (Pro) block Chevy with 8.3 initial compression. What starter do you guys recommend that I get as a replacement? I wouldn't think that I would need a high compression (or racing) type starter would I? It looks like some starters are set up for 153 or 168 tooth flywheels. I'm not sure which flywheel I have but will call my motor builder to see if he remembers.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Keith
I have a blown 502 that has a mini starter that I purchased from Chevrolet.
It is listed in their High Performance Catalog. It has been trouble free for 5 seasons.
Dave

[Robbie Racer]

John and Dave,
Thank you for the recommendations on the starters.
Keith

[RACER52]

I agree on both types,, stock h.p or the after market..
I have been using the tilton starter without any problems..
most of the exposed gear starters are gonna have holes for both ring gears. I would go with a good one cause boating is supposed to be trouble free.. :D
I just dropped my drive off, blew the floor out of the upper gears..
Weird how it still stayed in forward. So that means it definatley
broke from my quik decel.. Live and learn..
Racer

[jackpunx]

I push start/bump mine :D

[JetBoatRich]

I push start/bump mine :D
I heard about a girl who could suck start jet boats :supp:

[Robbie Racer]

I heard about a girl who could suck start jet boats :supp:
LOL, I think I knew that girl when I used to have my jet boat. :2purples:
JP, I thought about that but the jet boat that was towing me in couldn't get it going fast enough with me (and Rocket-J also with a bad starter) in tow. :D
Racer, sorry to hear about the drive damage. I had to send my upper back to the Bravo Shop for repair that time (two years ago) after the Bridge to Bridge event when it stuck in forward too. That was an expensive fix. :( When do you think you will have it back on the boat?
Keith

[Oldsquirt]

Keith, regarding the starter, I have one very important word..."Marine". :)

[Robbie Racer]

Keith, regarding the starter, I have one very important word..."Marine". :)
Craig, what is the reason to go with a "marine" rated starter for my application? The one that came out after 4 years and 300 hours of run time was not marine rated. I would assume that a marine starter would have less of a chance of generating any sparks which could cause a fire or explosion in an enclosed engine compartment so would be necessary in that situation. In my situation, I have a big hole cut in the engine hatch for the blower. The carbs (which I would think would be the biggest source of gas fumes) are located outside of the hatch. I wouldn't think a marine starter would be of much benefit in this situation unless I had a fuel leak in the engine compartment. And in that situation, any source of a spark (like a bad plug wire, etc.) could cause a fire or explosion. :2purples:
Where is my thinking off on this?
Keith

[RACER52]

I havent been running a marine starter either.. But I did put a little extra silicone around the hole and cable coming thought to the solenoid..
They all will work...
R.R= good news, Boatmasters tore down the drive and didnt find any broken parts.. I wasnt thinking properly when I diagnosed the problem..
Drew found that the allen screw in the shift fork Backed out :eek:
So that was the little bit of metal I found..
He is tearing it down and cleaning today. Will order any little parts needed
today also.
Will be back together for the Big Cat Poker Run..
Racer

[Oldsquirt]

Craig, what is the reason to go with a "marine" rated starter for my application? The one that came out after 4 years and 300 hours of run time was not marine rated. I would assume that a marine starter would have less of a chance of generating any sparks which could cause a fire or explosion in an enclosed engine compartment so would be necessary in that situation. In my situation, I have a big hole cut in the engine hatch for the blower. The carbs (which I would think would be the biggest source of gas fumes) are located outside of the hatch. I wouldn't think a marine starter would be of much benefit in this situation unless I had a fuel leak in the engine compartment. And in that situation, any source of a spark (like a bad plug wire, etc.) could cause a fire or explosion. :2purples:
Where is my thinking off on this?
Keith
Keith, in the eventualityof a fuel leak(as likely/unlikely as it may be), all of the fuel, and virtually all of the fumes, will be settled at the lowest point. That means down in the bilge right there with your starter. The hole in the engine hatch for the blower/carbs would be of little or no value in preventing an explosion or fire.
Marine certified starters and alternators are not that much more expensive. Maybe an extra hundred bucks? Compare that to the value of what you are trying to protect.
BTW, Rex offers the IMI that Heatseeker posted, in a marine-certified version for $199.

[Robbie Racer]

Keith, in the eventualityof a fuel leak(as likely/unlikely as it may be), all of the fuel, and virtually all of the fumes, will be settled at the lowest point. That means down in the bilge right there with your starter. The hole in the engine hatch for the blower/carbs would be of little or no value in preventing an explosion or fire.
Marine certified starters and alternators are not that much more expensive. Maybe an extra hundred bucks? Compare that to the value of what you are trying to protect.
BTW, Rex offers the IMI that Heatseeker posted, in a marine-certified version for $199.
Craig, good point. Thanks for the info.
Racer, that is good news. Glad to hear that Drew found it was just a backed out allen screw. That is a whole lot less expensive than repairing a broken upper drive unit.
Keith

[RACER52]

yes it is..
$199 is cheaper than my none marine Tilton..
order it.
Racer