ARP Bolts

[BrendellaJet]

Im wanting to use ARP stainless bolts when putting my boat back together for things such as seat mounts, rail kit, to attach bowl to pump and suction housing to intake...would this be okay? Ive read that stainless are not as strong as grade 8...

[Squirtin Thunder]

The ARP bolts are very well engineered. And are much better quality than just about any other stainless fasteners on the market. True Stainless does not have the flex of a grade 8 bolt(of same size), but the sizes that are used compencate for that. Berkely installs Stainless bolts in all there pump parts from the factory, even on the race pumps. The only thing is, NJBA rules state that the loader be through bolted and with black oxide grade 8 hardware, and it is a real good idea !!!

[Rexone]

ARP stainless are about as strong as grade 8. Not even in the same rhelm as standard 18-8 stainless bolts you commonly find. We stock alot of ARP sizes and can get any you need, just give a call if you need help with them. ARP Link (http://www.rexmar.com/page389.html)

[Sanger D]

ARRP,s stainless is way stronger than grade 8, they give you MOTOR mount bolts,and every thing else under your hood in the bolt kits you get from them,they are PLENTY strong for anything in your boat thats bolted down,my old flatty is a vibrating SOB and my WHOLE boat is ARP 12 point stainless!!! even on my motor rails, you are NOT going to break one !!!!! call them and they will send you a whole packet on their hardware spec.s rex has probably got the info too, .........................right REX!!!!!?

[jrork]

I ran SS ARP bolts on all the external parts of the engine (along with the regular ARP's on the inside) and love em. They look bitchin and I'm hoping corrosion will be kept to a minimum.
Go for it and enjoy how much lighter your wallet is.

[Sanger D]

I ran SS ARP bolts on all the external parts of the engine (along with the regular ARP's on the inside) and love em. They look bitchin and I'm hoping corrosion will be kept to a minimum.
Go for it and enjoy how much lighter your wallet is........................................ABSOLUTE LY,!!! I,ve got a 72 blazer that is ALL ARP in and out!!! and a flatty thats ALL arp as well, NEVER have I seen any rust or corrosion!!! if you can afford em,..... GET EM!!!!!!

[jrork]

.......................................ABSOLUTELY, !!! I,ve got a 72 blazer that is ALL ARP in and out!!! and a flatty thats ALL arp as well, NEVER have I seen any rust or corrosion!!! if you can afford em,..... GET EM!!!!!!
Not arguing but WHO can afford em? I'll be eating Kraft macaroni and cheese for a year to recover from what they cost me.........
Still, I wouldn't change it for nuthin. Ever eat Spam/Macs and Cheese?

[wsuwrhr]

My jet boat is completely rigged with ARP stainless bolts.
Brian

[steelcomp]

Im wanting to use ARP stainless bolts when putting my boat back together for things such as seat mounts, rail kit, to attach bowl to pump and suction housing to intake...would this be okay? Ive read that stainless are not as strong as grade 8...
BJ...Your bowl to pump bolts should already be stainless unless someone changed them.
I used a lot of ARP on my boat. Motor plates, motor mounts, intake and headers, stuff like that. Mostly for cosmetic reasons, but some for their strength. In most cases, they will be WAY overkill for the application, strength wise. Where the bolts can't be seen, I just used plain ol' hardware store stainless hardware. Plenty good. If you can afford the ARP stuff, it does look better than anything. Note about working with stainless hardware. You need to use a good anti sieze when assembling. When you start working with stainless bolts and nuts, you're going to run ito a condition called galling, or material transfer. This is where the two like-materials, when presure is applied, will try and become as one. They will "weld" themselves together. You will find yourself trying to get a nut off a bolt, but it just keeps getting tighter and tighter untill it finally locks up. At this point, you'll need a cut off wheel or a hack saw, because that nut and bolt are now one piece.
True Stainless does not have the flex of a grade 8 bolt(of same size), but the sizes that are used compencate for that.
Grade 8 bolts have very little flex. They are hard and brittle, and should be used in shear and tensile applications only. Where there are bending forces, a grade 8 bolt is the wrong application for just that reason. Stainless alloys are typically much "softer". Sizes don't compensate for "more" flex.
Just a note about hardware. Grade 8 bolts are not the be-all adn end-all of hardware strength. There's a lot of different grades of bolts out there, because there are a lot of different appplications. Fot most applications, grade 8 is way overkill, and sometimes can be a bad choice. Stainless has never been consideres good structurally, and used mainly in corrosive conditions. ARP has come up with their Stainless 300 series alloy which has the properties of stainless, but the strength of a grade 8+ bolt.

[jrork]

Steel,
You are the man. I love reading all your posts. Sooner or later I'm gonna learn something.
Thanks for taking the time to get us pointed in the right direction

[DeputyDawg]

Dude, don't stroke his ego too much! j/k steel!

[BILLY.B]

My jet boat is completely rigged with ARP stainless bolts.
BrianEven though I don't have a Dodge like Brian, my little alcohol K-boat is completely rigged with ARP bolts ( sponsorship by Allen's Fasteners). Even the turnbuckle stand offs, which take a ton pressure when working the plates are ARP.

[steelcomp]

Dude, don't stroke his ego too much! j/k steel! :rolleyes:
:D

[steelcomp]

Steel,
You are the man. I love reading all your posts. Sooner or later I'm gonna learn something.
Thanks for taking the time to get us pointed in the right direction
anytime :D

[Condor]

Steel, made one very important point, always use Anti-Seize on SS bolts and nuts !
It also works wonders on AN fitting threads !
A most have, for a Boat Mec-a-nick. ;)